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2001 Impreza L
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730 Posts
Thanks again, Defcon5, for documenting this mod. I tested it in about 2-3" of snow last week with my all-seasons and it was great. I wasn't able to test it in fresh snow, but on old snow/ice, it performed pretty well. It also performed well on the twisties on the way back. Over here, we use sand to clear out the snow, so there's sand all over the roads. I had no troubles going up and down those twisties with this mod on and with sand all over the roads.

I have a quick question though, is there a maximum speed at which this mod should be off? I'm asking because I accidentally left it on when I was on the highway for about 2 hours. I'm hoping that I didn't damage anything.

Thanks.
 

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'99 OBS
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117 Posts
Discussion Starter #142
I can't say for sure, but I don't see why there would be a top speed restriction.
I doubt you did any damage, but I would try to avoid leaving it on for extended periods of dry road. Even then, as long as you're heading in a relatively straight line, there won't be a lot of stress on the system.
 

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94 legacy turbo maroon
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17 Posts
still use mine almost everyday. i love the difference in hookup from a stop or roll.

So can this duty solenoid wear out? just having it on (off) for extended periods?
 

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94 legacy turbo maroon
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17 Posts
so with normal driving will the clutch pack wear out then? like it's only a matter of time or does the rally-x just really beat it up too much??
 

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IG: @RHD_Adventures
2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5 Speed
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1,834 Posts
so with normal driving will the clutch pack wear out then? like it's only a matter of time or does the rally-x just really beat it up too much??
don't quote me, but I think because your on dirt with rallyx the clutch pack will be fine.


BTW, defcon, sorry I haven't called or emailed... I keep forgetting. I wanted to let you know that the FWD toggle switch that we worked on in conjunction with this mod magically started working and has been working eVer since. I found out if the "ebrake" dash light is on, the FWD switch will work. My car has always had a habit of leaving that dash light illuminated when it's cold out so it pretty much always stays on. I also found out that eVen if the "brake" light or "FWD" light is not illuminated it still works... weird, but hey it works for me. So now I have:

-FWD
-AWD
-"4WD"

Jonny Walker
 

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1 Posts
Hi guys

I'm trying to do this mod on a 2006 impreza with the DOHC engine (2.0R)

i downloaded the FSM and seems like the signaling for the Transfer Duty Solenoid (should be the same as C) is different



now im not sure if in P or N it should be locked up, or is it reverse signaling where for full pressure to be applied the solenoid needs to be fully energized?

i guess one way would be to just cut it and try it

any input is appreciated :)
 

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03OBS
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402 Posts
just skimming thru this. but why is this safer to fun in snow/dirt then dry roads? i'm assuming it would be bad to ave on during dry autox's then, or am i wrong?
typically a 4eat will run at a 90/10 torque split to the front. this mod locks the diff at 50/50. it gives better grip/launch on different road surfaces and will promote more oversteer than good old fashioned subaru understeer.
 

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2.2 97L & 02 wrx
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1,701 Posts
typically a 4eat will run at a 90/10 torque split to the front. this mod locks the diff at 50/50. it gives better grip/launch on different road surfaces and will promote more oversteer than good old fashioned subaru understeer.
yeah i know that. i'm just wondering why is it bad to run this in dry/autox events. what makes this unhealthy on the car in those conditions then running it, and it being safe, in the snow, dirt, mud, pudding, yogurt, and what not. basically why can i use it then but shouldn't on dry
 

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IG: @RHD_Adventures
2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5 Speed
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1,834 Posts
yeah i know that. i'm just wondering why is it bad to run this in dry/autox events. what makes this unhealthy on the car in those conditions then running it, and it being safe, in the snow, dirt, mud, pudding, yogurt, and what not. basically why can i use it then but shouldn't on dry
I use mine a little more aggresively than probably 90% of the people that have done this mod as defcon pointed out a few pages back. The reason you don't want to run this on dry pavement or dry surfaces is because it causes the "center diff" to bind and over work itself. I don't autox, but use this mod quite often on twisty roads and when I'm in need/want more traction to the rear wheels... I'm constantly switching from FWD to AWD to 50/50 4WD... we'll see what happens. BTW, I've been using the FWD mod for close to 70K without problem (knock on wood) and this mod was installed maybe 20idkK miles ago.
 

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98 2.5RS RBP
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170 Posts
yeah i know that. i'm just wondering why is it bad to run this in dry/autox events. what makes this unhealthy on the car in those conditions then running it, and it being safe, in the snow, dirt, mud, pudding, yogurt, and what not. basically why can i use it then but shouldn't on dry
and as what i had posted i dont have the mod but i autoX in D1-D2 which makes for the 50/50 lock and the result in that was i now have a 1 wheel drive legacy (burned out the center diff)
 

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2001 RS-t Coupe
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5 Posts
This thing works amazing, thank goodness I have all seasons, I accidentally left it on after backing off a dirt road. left some badass skid marks to let me know it works amazingly!

anyone figure out the e-brake switch?
 

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IG: @RHD_Adventures
2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5 Speed
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1,834 Posts
anyone figure out the e-brake switch?
Maybe I missed one of his posts, but what e-brake switch are you talking about? The e-brake mod works on my car... pull the e-brake and it locks the wheels or something like... crap I can't remember, but I know I have the e-brake mod. Did he come out with a physical "toggle" switch for the e-brake?
 

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99 jdm wrx (gf8)
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4 Posts
Hello everyone at rs25.com!

I am new to this forum, but I've been registered on nasioc for a while.
I find rs25 more useful for me since I run '99 JDM WRX AT and it is practically identical with RS. However I was amazed and a bit dazzled by the content of this thread at the same time (this is actually why I decided to start from here).
So I've always believed that torque split on my WRX is by default 60/40 (rear-front) or even more rear-bias as I've encountered many times that pushing the gas pedal on a slippery surface always caused rear wheels to start spinning like mad giving absolutely RWD feel then FWD.
The diff is OK, because... and here comes seemingly another difference between RS and WRX... if I push the HOLD button, which I believe doesn't exist on RS, since I don't need any solenoid bypasses, I just push the button, it splits the torque in 50-50 ratio, which makes it perfect for escaping deep snow traps or trying to control the car on 60-70 mph on ice (yes, I auto-xed it, and my experience shows that it turns and goes sideways better and in a more controlled manner while the torque split is default (diff is unlocked) and stays more stable on straights at higher speed while it is 4WD (diff is locked, HOLD is on).

So by no means did I try to undermine the importance of the Defcon5's experience and results of his hard work posted here, but I have to state that either diff works totally different on WRX then RS or a don't get something. And yes, the tranny is the same 4EAT...

Maybe the answer is in the amount of acceleration: when the gas is half-pushed it is FWD (since I do notice how it understeers whithout proper gas pedal work), but when the turbo boosts it clearly acquires typical RWD manners.

Sorry if I was too long and boring but this is how it all seems to me now.
 

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1,119 Posts
Man you have no idea how badly I wish I had the knowledge to do this. It sucks just knowing that it's not true AWD. If it was 10/90 I wouldn't feel so bad but 90/10, that sucks.

Edit:
Reading over it a second time maybe this does look plausible. Be sweet if I could get it working.
 
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