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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the last of my dumb wiring ails. I used my original VSS, wired it to my MY00 oem book specs, and it roasted a sensor. I bought a new sensor, and discovered ALLDATA had a DIFFERENT VSS wiring diagram.

Before I go ruin another 90 dollar sensor, I want to pick your heads.

GB-Green w. black stripe-?? OEM says power from cluster.
GY- Green with yellow stripe- mine looks GW.- OEM says ECU+cluster
BR- Brown and white. OEM labels BR, meaning black and red, but is brown and white- OEM says 12v source

What am I missing here?
 

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1997 GF8
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BR is ground

GB is ignition

GY goes to cluster

This is how I hooked mine up.

pin 2 (middle one) is ground pin 1 goes to ecu pin 3 goes to 12v ignition
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks.
PS: If this one nukes, I'm going to mail you a bag of dog turds:banana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that didnt work for me..
gb to 12v+ from cluster
gy to pin c10
brown to chassis..
bummer.
 

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1997 GF8
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are you sure you are using the correct wires? dont bother looking at the wire colors, look at the pin configuration middle is ground, pin number one goes to cluster and last pin goes to a 12v ignition source. If it doesnt work then switch the two outer wires, the middle one is always ground. My vss was for a wrx and I got these pinouts from the fsm
 

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95 **** Piece
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I'm assuming you got this sorted out by now? What was the deal? I can't get this shit to work and it's starting to get to me. It's only 3 damn wires...
 

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95 **** Piece
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This is looking down into the sensor, correct? Although I tried swapping the power/output wires and nothing changed, so it really doesn't matter. :unamused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the view is the top. the single pin on the connector's plastic is up.

You will junk the sensor if the output and power are switched.
So you take your output to the ecu and the cluster.
 

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95 **** Piece
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Do you happen to know how to test if the sensor is good? I have one here that is opened up and it doesn't look like there is much to break...I'm sure I broke whatever can though.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
theyre extremely cheap and burn out easily.

the only way to test it is to wire it up like it should and see if the cluster/ecu gets the signal
 

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I took it for a spin around the block, the cluster didn't show anything, but the ecu also didn't kick into limp mode like it was with no sensor. I don't know if I didn't drive long enough, or I have the wrong pin on the cluster, or the sensor is dead or what. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
it will take a while of driving before the ecu says nice try.
It isn't possible to check the sensor's integrity with a multimeter. the square pattern can't be read.

So I would drive around for a while with it wired correctly and see if the cel comes on.

BTW life must be hell with limp mode on a EJ20.
 

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Yeah, I think it took me like over a mile last time for the CEL to kick on now that you mention it. And yes, limp mode eats big floppy donkey dick on a ej20/td04. Pulling timing like crazy at 4ish K rpms....forhead, meet windshield. :unamused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
and you are likely dangerously lean.. i was at 15-16afr with the 3.3 for a while because of cel 33
 

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right here with you guys can't get it figured out got the wire in the car but forgot which go where so i get to crawl under my car again to find out. 4500 redline = fail for sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
watch it man, you can pop that motor really quick in limp mode.

just wire it to what the diagram says, and watch the orientation of the plug.
 

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My third, and hopefully final sensor should be here tomorrow. :unamused: :lol:

Power is +12v right?
 
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