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Well, I finally finished the modification to my torque box. I will first say that it was not easy. I goofed up when cutting the hole and ended having to do a few things I didn't want to do. Planning is very important when doing this mod. BUT...It was well worth the effort. I bought a second box just incase I permanently messed it up.

I was going to use a 3" 90 degree rubber elbow coming out of the box but I goofed that up so I used a small section of 3" ABS pipe and a 3" 90 degree ABS elbow, and lots of JB Weld. Then coming out of the elbow I used another small section of ABS pipe and was going to use the rubber elbow to attach from the pipe to the MAF. Well I cut the rubber elbow to short so I ended up using the 3" flex tube you would find on older Fords and Chevy's and stuff. It still worked/fit. :) It's not exactly what I had in mind but it does work. I am still using the stock filter box at the fender. I'm trying to figure out a way to make it flow better and have some idea's.

After an ECU reset I took it out for a spin. I was definitely impressed. No loss of low end what so ever. Actually I am now able to spin the front wheel's (just barely) when taking off into a turn and I have an auto at 5800 feet altitude. I definitely gained a bit on the top end as well. Before you could tell it was straining above 90mph. Now it continues to pull. Not like a turbo or anything but it feels as if it isn't working as hard. You also don't have to use as much pedal to stay at cruising speed.

The intake sound is different now. It's a low sound kind of like what you might hear on a 4bbl with no filter. You can also hear a change in the sound when it changes gears going WOT. It's not even near the raspy sound you get with a hot air J-tube intake.

One small problem that I found is that, when sitting at a stand still and punching the pedal to go WOT it will bog for a second and ping. I can only assume this is because it's getting so much air that it pings and retards the timing. But, if you 3/4 the pedal from a stand still you don't get that and I get a small spin from the front wheel(s). I am going to need something to monitor how much air is being drawn in, what the air/fuel ratio is, what the EGT's look like and maybe be able to control the amount of fuel at WOT.

My car has the following now: 3" torque box mod, JCS auto Torque chip II, Magnecor wires, NGK V-power plugs, Borla Headers and Stromung cat back system with intermediate pipe non resonated.

With the above setup it was the single best mod I have done to the car yet.

I'm not going to post this over on the I-club because all I will get is debate and criticism because I don't have dyno charts or the like. But for those with a MAFwho are looking for a little more power, no loss of low end and feel up to the task I say go for it.

Cost was $65.00 for the box and $15.00 for the elbow, pipe and JB Weld.
 

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2004 Forester XTi
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I'm glad you're satisfied with the mod. I have done the mod this past Summer and I am satisfied with it. I have to agree that it does require some planning and patience. It may not do a lot for the low end, but I'm sure it helped with the top end. The stock airbox elbow is a lot skinnier to the new 3" elbow. It... it just looks right. ;)
 
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