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25DB Widebody Rsti

262283 Views 1272 Replies 108 Participants Last post by  r0bman
Lets get to the point.

Donor car: 2005 sti slightly modded.



Was fun while it lasted.



Fun in the snow.



And on the track.






Then some water happened along with a crazy idea and this was purchased.





and the FUN begins.

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But wait..
There is more !!!


I've fiddled around with CAN bus and now I can control the boost levels from the Motec Pdm keypad !!!




Here is the Link ECU wastgate and CAN tables.
Its relatively easy concept.
Digital input 10 is Meth signal from Aquamist controller.
If its ON it reads the 1 column.
Say its a last position 0.6 that equates to Boost target of 49.3.
It then goes to WDC table and looks up 49.3.
This drives the boost solenoid from 24.5 up to 26 Duty cycle.

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Damn, that's rad!
Keep up the good work.
This build never stops getting better! All of it is way over my head, but still fun to watch along. USB in glovebox is a great idea, too back mine's always too full of shit to steal the location
But wait..
There is more !!!


I've fiddled around with CAN bus and now I can control the boost levels from the Motec Pdm keypad !!!




Here is the Link ECU wastgate and CAN tables.
Its relatively easy concept.
Digital input 10 is Meth signal from Aquamist controller.
If its ON it reads the 1 column.
Say its a last position 0.6 that equates to Boost target of 49.3.
It then goes to WDC table and looks up 49.3.
This drives the boost solenoid from 24.5 up to 26 Duty cycle.

So you basically use single value as boost target? Or this table is some sort of modifier? TPS is no longer considered for target boost?

I have AEM methanol kit and I'm thinking of good way to integrate it with link ecu. It has controller that accepts electronic input and I can use spare output to generate request for meth, but I'm not sure how to get feedback from the system back to ECU...
So you basically use single value as boost target? Or this table is some sort of modifier? TPS is no longer considered for target boost?

Correct.. I just set a target boost based on my switch input.
No TPS. RPM based modifier.
Looking at the table above: For 34.8(Map) (20psi boost) at 6000rpm run a WG of 15%.

So yes.. I could potentially reach preset boost level with partial throttle. (Higher boost levels should require more gases.) (if thats your concern)







I have AEM methanol kit and I'm thinking of good way to integrate it with link ecu. It has controller that accepts electronic input and I can use spare output to generate request for meth, but I'm not sure how to get feedback from the system back to ECU...
First thing you need is a safety output from your AEM meth kit. (basically on when all green and off when a fault is detected)
That will turn on with the AEM system and it will switch the ignition and fuel tables.

Next you could either use fuel/ignition table 2 or use the correction 3D and 4D tables.
Once AEM is green your fuel table switches and injects less fuel and your ignition table switches and adds more timing.


Here is my Aquamist setup:



DI5 --> digital input from Aquamist. (the safety switch input)
Aux 6 --> PWM output to control the duty cycle of the meth injection. (this is only so I can change the settings without opening up the Aquamist box)
Fuel table 2 activates on DI5.
Ignition table 2 activates on DI5 as well.

Key point to test is that once AEM detects a fault or flow issues that it grounds the safety switch causing Link Ecu to switch back to Fuel 1 and Ignition1 or disabling a 3D,4D table.
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Thanks for info! I bought aem kit several years ago, but still didn't come close to actually installing it :( didn't know if it even has any outputs or safety switch...
Anyways, I don't plan to rely on meth injection too much... as I understand, even with output from controller, you can't be sure that pump is running correctly. And even with pressure sensor in line you can't be sure that nozzle is not clogged or something.
So, when I'll install it, I'll probably use it as additional cooling measure with feedback on IAT.
I don't have practical experience with meth and tuning in general though :)
Correct.. I just set a target boost based on my switch input.
No TPS. RPM based modifier.
Looking at the table above: For 34.8(Map) (20psi boost) at 6000rpm run a WG of 15%.

Wow, that's impressive :) I'm almost jealous :)
Do you use open loop boost control? Your PID parameters are all 0...
I have target boost as TPS vs RPM map and WG duty is 1D map with RPM as axis and using close loop boost control. Not easiest thing to tune do far..
Its closed loop.
I am dialing in my WG% to be as close as possible to the target. Then I'll turn my closed loop on for minimal correction.
Its a longer process but more precise.

My Boost target before was based on Gear and Rpm.. This might have been good for drag cars as you can limit the boost on launch.

Send me your map and a log. I kinda enjoy looking at those.
remski @ verizon.net
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Off for a long overdue update.

I've decided to send my injectors to clean and flow test.
Was getting some knock at places that I dont think I should..

Here are the charts they sent.

Pre-cleaning.
Not terrible but still a 2% deviation on injector #1 with total spread of 3-4%.




Post cleaning.
Total spread is down to 2% on average.
From what I read ID runs their injectors at about .5% spread.




Anyhow.. the cool part is I can correct this in the Link ecu.
Making it almost .5% deviation.. as this is the minimum correction that Link allows.




After install it was time for leak check.. and there was a tiny leak from the fuel rails.
With the Cossworth fuel rails I have, I've changed the original o-ring to a smaller one so I can have a mechanical lock with the ORB fitting.
Little did I know that the rails are garbage.

Instead having a groove cut into where the ORB goes, all they did is a chamfer
.


Here it is squeezing the o-ring so both surfaces can mate.
With the old o-ring there was no mechanical contact and I suspect this is why people have engine fires, the only friction is on the o-ring itself.




Right next to the therads is the chamfer. What it should have been is a groove so the o-ring can fit almost flush. Then once you tighten the ORB both surfaces will meet creating a lock.



This is how much the o-ring had to be crushed in order to get both surfaces to meet.



So if you in the market for rails.. pay attention to that chamfer..
If it has a chamfer instead of a groove its garbage.


Last but not least .. I played a little seamstress....




And here it is installed.
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Man I was just telling my friend about your car and showed him this thread. Nice updates and info on the fuel rails.
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Nice to see your around, any rails you would suggest? Glad no engine fire. Any new pics of whole car, yours always look fantastic.
Nice to see your around, any rails you would suggest? Glad no engine fire. Any new pics of whole car, yours always look fantastic.
Looks like somebody did it right...
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Perfect, I've got a set of them sitting here. Thanks.
I love companies that that do more than sell a product.
Its no surprise that Injector Dynamics are "THE" injectors to buy.
Besides flow matching to 1% they also post cool vids on youtube.

One of them that I watched was on fuel pulsations and fuel dampeners.
Subarus do come factory stock with a dampener or two...

Since I've replaced the lines I removed mine..

After watching the video I looked at my map and I do have two spots that either have very high volumetric efficiency or there are some fueling issues.




This could also be due to the fuel oscilations...
So I've bought the Radium fuel pulse dampener.




What can I say.. The quality is pretty disappointing.
First thing I do is, I check if this thing is air tight..
Attach the hose and simply suck on it..
What do you know.. it leaks straigt out of the box !!!!!
No biggie right ?
All screws are tight.. so I open it up.




What do I find ?
A metal shaving right between the green cap and the membrane.
What do you know.. the surface is already scratched !!!!




But wait.. there is more..
That shaving wasnt the issue..
The problem was the nipple leaking.
It came loose pretty easy.. and this is what came out of the nipple area.
It wasnt metal.. and didnt look like something used to seal.




Now.. I had to re-seal the nipple thereads with teflon tape.... TWICE !!!
As on the first try it leaked again.


Finally I had to shorten the feed hose to accomodate the dampener.





Here its sits installed.



Sadly my laptop just died while logging so I cant tell if this does anything.


Last but not least.. got a foam canon and was testing it out...

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Disappointing on Radium, I've really liked there products and invasion. Nice to see the car out though.
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Disappointing on Radium, I've really liked there products and invasion. Nice to see the car out though.
I do too.. I have their surge tank and it seems to perform without any issues.
Evidently I can't spell, innovation.
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We are partially back....
Had some requests to bring the pictures back.. but due to hd failure I've lost quite a lot.

I was able to recover about 1000+ pics.. so everything up to 2018 should work..
We are partially back....
Had some requests to bring the pictures back.. but due to hd failure I've lost quite a lot.

I was able to recover about 1000+ pics.. so everything up to 2018 should work..
Ain't this your home base server, remember it being an issue before, or you moved or something
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