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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I did a thing. And that's usually the story with my cars. Ive been out of the Subaru game for a while, since 2013 I think. I walked away after dropping into a Porsche Cayman. I was so smitten that I traded a very well sorted out and tastefully modified 08 STi hatch for $17k, leaving thousands on the table at the time. But the Subie itch never left. Ive owned a parade of cars in the interim, trucks, sedans vans, a couple bikes, but every time I hear that flat 4 with a UEL header...I look up and my heart beats just a bit faster.

So a couple months back I bought a well sorted, though currently not running 2001 2.5RS Coupe with a BAR'd 05/06 STi Swap. She needed a harness to get back up and running, and I have plans to finish the swap by trading the R160 rear diff for a V7 R180. The car has rebuilt bottom end with forged pistons, upgraded bearings, shaved and balanced crank yadda yadda. A bunch of nice JDM accouterments ( JDM Fenders, fogs/covers, smooth rear bumper with spats and caps, taillights, front corners on and on), group N bushings throughout, it goes on.

If I am to believe the person I bought it from (BTW Thanks Doug!) He was the third owner, carfax suggests the same. The car was originally owned by a friend of Brian at iWire and was one of the first couple of cars they merged so its got some fun history.

On the Fix List:
New merged harness
DS door alignment

Get FEAL 441's rebuilt or replace them.
Replace 27mm whitline bars with less aggressive units
New turbo blanket
New clutch/flywheel
Current hit list of issues:
Passenger window worked now doesnt....
Drivers side door lock functional but not powered

License plate lights inoperable
rt front turn signal light burned out
DCCD manual adjustment (Auto/Manual works but manual is currently full open only)
Finish fuel pump wiring/clean up
Car dies on throttle chop at low speeds + tight turns - currently has a wrx spec clutch and streetlight flywheel - suspect flywheel has insufficient mass ATM.

Slight hunting idle between 800-1100 rpm: Vacuum leak? Other?
Rotors rusted severely while sitting, rust now embedded badly in pads. New rotors and pads likely on the list as well as a brake flush.
Sunroof gasket needs replacing, track needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
Verify DBW cruise control functionality.- need different clock spring current is of unknown vintage and has incorrect connections
Replace front drivers parking light pigtail - currently cracked
replace front passenger turn signal pigtail - currently cracked
run new dedicated wiring/relay for fog lights
Passenger side high beam inoperable - open relay terminal currently - unsure if needed with HID conversion but potentially root cause

replace and or seal rear 02 sensor plug which melted at some point.
recharge AC
address rust starting on rolled fender edges
address rust spot on sunroof
SMOG IT
Install killer B headers and any other goodies
Re-tune
Enjoy


Anyway, on to the reason you are REALLY here....
Bringing her home (GRETA (the van) is a beast...tuned to 265hp and 465ftlbs with adjustable FOX shocks and scaling 8200lbs, she is imperturbable by a measly subaru behind her)







I have a Tesla Model 3 Performance as my DD and my goal is to build a car that is just as fast from a rolling start but will crush it at speed and run away from it in the twisties (this will be hard).

I bought the car to teach my currently 3 and 5 year old daughters how to work on cars (my wife also has a '77 MB 450SL which they will learn on) and more importantly drive stick when they are old enough. While I understand that they may never need a drivers license with the direction technology is going, they are going to be capable behind the wheel and with a wrench (my 3 yo already helps me fix my bicycle and knows some of her tool names and my 5 yo wields a hammer better than most kids twice her age).

The guys at iWire are mad geniuses, and they built me a new harness, a sub harness for the STi gauge cluster, integrated the DCCDPro, converted the cruise to DBW and overall just made a really sexy harness. All wiring is currently sorted and working!!

Some intermediates:







And my other toys for shits and giggles



My daughter named the RSTi Frosty....might plate it with "FRSTI"
 

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Discussion Starter #2
More items knocked off the hitlist. Got her smogged...WOOT WOOT!! Found some new old stock carpet for it...AMAZING! The carpet in it was barely carpet anymore. More like greasy lint stuck to tape and soaked in coolant. Best $300 I've ever spent on a car, its like it is new again.


 

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2001 SRP RS Coupe, 05 FXT
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Save the narrow bodies! Looks like you found yourself a really nice starting point in this car, be a shame to chop up the fenders. Looking forward to following along in the progress, either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In all reality I probably wont go wide body on it, I tend to build conservative looking, subtle cars. Not quite sleepers, but not obnoxious. I do like the wide body RS's though and of course everyone loves the 22B.

I agree the car is probably too clean an example to chop up and it would be better to grab a car with rusted out fenders for a wide body candidate.

I think I am decided on removing the wing and replacing it with either a 2.5rs OEM or a V4 STi wing. Other possibilities would be a 93/94 WRX spoiler or a 2002 wrx spoiler. Something to bring the trunk line down and separate/accentuate the high greenhouse on the coupe.
 

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2001 SRP RS Coupe, 05 FXT
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I'm a fan of the big wing on an early Impreza, but I do like the V3 Type R V-Limited with it's small rise spoiler and roof vent.
84005
 

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2001 SRP RS Coupe, 05 FXT
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Yeah, I think it's the same spoiler. Just like v4 STi spoiler is same as 2.5RS coupe
 

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2008 Impreza 2.5i
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Did iWire do the fog relay and harness? Or did you create and install one yourself? I can't seem to get fogs to work in my `97 that didn't come with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, my car had factory fogs, but I am positive they could do it. The best way to do aftermarket lights of any kind is to do an aftermarket switch and relay. Run power to the relay, run your wires from switch to relay and then wires from relay to lights. Most relays will have a diagram on them with some numbers (like 58 68 etc). You can usually find a diagram online for any given relay if you are having trouble. Not sure how conversant you are in wiring, but basically the way a relay works is it has power on one side. When you flip the switch, it gives the relay continuity and tells it to pass power to your load (in this case lights). The relay is so your switch does not have to carry all the current that your load draws which can be high depending on the load).

Always make sure you fuse the power going from your battery to the relay.

If you are wanting to use a factory switch it should be pretty easy to do that as well with an aftermarket relay. The trick is getting the relay wired correctly.
 
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