The terbo likes this cold air.
...I just hope it lasts till spring.
I finally ordered my hood struts last week and installed them yesterday. The bushing that holds the oem prop broke apart from age....so the prop would fall out of place while driving and almost hit the alternator belt....I've been just keeping it in the backseat to use whenever I need it. :lol:
I'm lazy and used all the factory bolt holes for the brackets. Eventually I'll mount the lower ones closer to the hood so it lifts the hood higher but meh...it's good for now. Sooo much easier than the prop.
I also did an oil change this weekend, and changed out the last section of hose at the fuel filter....I had the wrong type of 5/16" and it didn't fit 100% resulting in the smallest fuel leak possible.
164,700
And I finally got some time to start taking apart the old ej22....poor thing has been sitting outside since the summer. Nothing was wrong with it, but I'll clean it all up and see if it's useable for the next GC.
Also...the PS and AC brackets from the ej22 fit the ej205. So I'm cutting/shaving as much as I can from each, and painting them before I transfer them to my car. The brackets are bulky so this will clean up the bay a bit more.
Here's the "PS bracket" so far....it's only using 2 of the mounting holes...I'm thinking it should be fine since it only holds the alternator. I already have a cut PS bracket on my engine now...but I cut a LOT more off this one.
I finished up the alternator brackets and bought a new catback last weekend. I also installed some kartboy longer hangers, and a new heatshield for inbeteeen the catback and driveshaft....no more rattles!
..more on that stuff soon......
..but....today.....I went to pull out of the driveway and shifted into second....and the car shut off.
Won't start.
Cranks over and over and over, just fine....but no start.
Fuel pump IS NOT priming. I don't even hear the clicking of a relay. Pump is less than a year old; DW300 pump.
The main fuse and SBF5 fuse are both good....I'm getting 12v at each of those too (under hood fuse box).....also, the OBD2 is still working because the accessport is working....it will still read all the sensors too, including fuel stuff.
I'm getting 12v at the plug on top the fuel tank....12v at the fuel pump relay connector ( green ).
So I have voltage to the pump and to the relay....but neither wanna work.
I tried a different fuel pump relay from my old ej22 harness and still no luck.
EVERYTHING works inside the car....dash lights, heater/blower, lights, radio, ect.....except the fuel pump won't prime....I pulled every fuse inside and they all looked good.
I'm getting 12v at the plug on top the fuel tank....12v at the fuel pump relay connector ( green ).
So I have voltage to the pump and to the relay....but neither wanna work.
I tried a different fuel pump relay from my old ej22 harness and still no luck.
EVERYTHING works inside the car....dash lights, heater/blower, lights, radio, ect.....except the fuel pump won't prime....I pulled every fuse inside and they all looked good.
I can't find ANY info on how to check if the controller is good or not....so maybe I can get a friend to stop by with his WRX and I can swap the controllers out to see.
So if anyone knows how to check the controller with a meter, lemme know. :lol:
I'm gonna check EVERY fuse again....but if no fuses are blown, the controller is a likely suspect.
I also just checked both fuel pump relays I have with a 9v battery....both will click on and off, and show continuity on the other pins once activated. So the relay is good....
here is a fuel pump diagnosis order of operations:
-Fuel pump (check)
-Relay (check)
-Wiring (check-ish)
-Controller (?)
-Battery (unlikely but possible)
I would bypass the controller. If the pump turns on, the controller is bad. The controller serves as a "throttle" for the pump, and increases voltage to the pump according to the throttle position sensor, o2 sensor, etc. So if it is internally open, or there is a short in the wiring, no voltage will reach the pump.
here is a fuel pump diagnosis order of operations:
-Fuel pump (check)
-Relay (check)
-Wiring (check-ish)
-Controller (?)
-Battery (unlikely but possible)
I would bypass the controller. If the pump turns on, the controller is bad. The controller serves as a "throttle" for the pump, and increases voltage to the pump according to the throttle position sensor, o2 sensor, etc. So if it is internally open, or there is a short in the wiring, no voltage will reach the pump.
Where do you suggest I apply power to bypass the controller?
I've been searching and searching through online manuals and wiring diagrams, but can't find out what connector or pin to apply the 12v....with the battery in the back seat it's gonna be really easy to do. :lol:
I confirmed that the fuel pump relay IS working....I can feel it click on and off with the key ON or OFF....before I thought it wasn't getting power, but it is.
For the 6 pin connector on top the tank....under the little oval hatch....the upper left pin gets 12v with the key ON.....the arrow points to it here:
I finally found the PDF on how to directly apply voltage to the pump, and bypass the controller....I still confirmed with iWire before I tried it though...
...and......unfortunately...the pump is dead.
6-month old DW300....Bullshit....
Probably gonna go to IAG this weekend and buy a Walbro 255 to get me back on the road hopefully.
Instead of the 6-pin connector above the tank, I used the 2-pin under the back seat....it has larger pins to attach leads to. With my battery in the back it was super easy.
So it was definitely the pump. I rode down to IAG on Saturday and picked up a Walbro 255...then I sat out in my car with a space heater in 15*F weather and installed it. :lol:
Started right up like nothing ever happened. Hopefully the Walbro lasts.....I don't think I'll try another DW pump.
Here's the two pumps for comparison....they look almost the same (minus the logo):
Here are the finished alternator brackets...for now. I wanted to paint them, but it was just too cold. Once it gets warm I'll shave more off and paint them.
I can't re-use my alternator cover because the ej22 P/S bracket and the ej205 P/S bracket are slightly different. The bolt to tension the alternator is moved slightly to the side and it won't line up with the cover I made. So I'm using no cover for now:
I replaced the heatshield that's between the exhaust and driveshaft....it's been rattling, probably since I bought the car. :lol:
The one corner was rusted off so I couldn't secure it. I bought a brand new one through Subaru so it would be in perfect condition and cause no rattles.
Of course one of the bolts broke taking the old one out.....so....self tapper to the rescue!
I also caved in and got some rumble. Since I wanted a quiet catback, there's not many lightweight options....I went with the Invidia q300 because I was told it was quieter than the Cobb. It's only 7 lbs lighter than the OEM wrx catback.
Fitment is meh....but so was the WRX one. It hits the rear diff bracing/shield and doesn't line up with the middle hanger....but with a little convincing from zip ties and Kartboy hangers it doesn't rattle. :lol:
It's louder than I wanted, but atleast it sounds good. The tip isn't a huge barrel, so it's kinda stealthy. Even though it's a 3" flange, it actually bolts up pretty well to my Cobb downpipe (2.5" at the end).
You can see how close the exhaust is to the underside here:
So I noticed my radiator leaking from the bottom a couple weeks ago. It was a slow enough leak that I had some time to decide on a replacement. It was between the Koyo 1819 or a new OEM replacement.
Well the leak got a bit worse last Wednesday, and it needed to be replaced ASAP. So I didn't have time to order a Koyo from somewhere.....plus I really didn't wanna mess with new fans and shrouds, and a JDM overflow.....so I got a brand new OEM radiator straight from the dealer.
Yes, it was stupid expensive....but it works perfectly fine and nothing had to change.
So I replaced it on Saturday and turned my driveway into an EPA disaster. :lol:
New one:
I gutted a new radiator cap too. The one on the old radiator was fine, but taking it on and off to fill the radiator risks the gasket getting messed up and not holding pressure. Plus I like having extra gutted caps just incase.
I slowly cut away the plunger and springs with tin snips....very careful to not mess up the gasket or somehow deform the cap itself. I suppose it would work by just removing the smaller gasket, but I like to cut away the plunger too.
Normal cap next to the gutted one for comparison:
And here's some random pics I took recently. I got a new lens for my camera so I've been messing around with it lately.
I'm not sure exactly how it works or why, but here's how I understand it.....if anyone more knowledgable is reading, please correct me:
It has something to do with how my coolant lines are ran to the overflow....since the terbo engine has that upper reservoir on the intake manifold.
The gutted cap goes on the radiator, and allows coolant to flow freely to the upper reservoir. Then, the upper reservoir has the real radiator cap with spring....so once it all gets up to temp and pressure, it will open and flow into the overflow.
The OEM n/a set-up goes straight from the radiator to overflow....the gutted cap set-up makes everything kinda work like OEM.
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