Thanks for the link. I found a helpful bit about the test mode connectors I didn't see when I read that page yesterday. I spent a good couple hours reading around different Subaru forums but didn't find much.
I still can't figure out which solenoid is the "vent control solenoid valve" the CEL refers to.
Last night I dropped the charcoal canister down and removed one of the solenoids. Nothing seemed obviously wrong but I ran out of daylight so I put it back together.
Today I'm gonna completely remove the charcoal canister and check it out. I'm also gonna remove and inspect every hose back there to check for blockage.
So the past month or so I've been having random issues....the EVAP cel, brake issues, oil randomly burning, and some other stuff. I just wanted to thank everyone on here that's helped me cause this stuff gets frustrating.
....but I've also gotten some things done I've wanted to do for a while.
Winter is here though, so the snow tires and winter wheels are on....definitely needs taller tires.
For the p1443 I took all the EVAP stuff apart and made sure there was no blockage, and made GOOD connections on ALL the hoses....to hopefully rule out a small vac leak. I also replaced the gas cap for shits and giggles.
It was off for 1,000 miles then came back last week....so I don't know what to do there. It's been off since then, but we'll see how long it lasts.
2 weeks ago a brake cylinder decided to explode on me....while replacing that and bleeding the brakes, I broke the bleeder off the other wheel cylinder...so I had to replace that too. One of the calipers up front was dragging too...so I greased it all up and replaced all the pads up front.
That should hold me off for brakes until spring....then I'm overhauling ALL the brakes....discs in rear for sure.
There's still some other issues...but I'm just keeping an eye on everything and trying to get it through winter. After winter I should finally be able to get a spare GC for when this one has problems. Then I'll have 2 GC impreza's and be happy.
Had a long Thanksgiving weekend off work, and was able to get some things installed/done. I installed a GD impreza master cylinder brace, smaller fuel filter, deleted the antenna, and finally relocated the battery.
Then I re-did the POS wire for the battery relocation yesterday. At first I used rubber/metal conduit, with 1AWG THHN wire....now I used all plastic conduit and fine stranded audio/battery cable.
Engine bay is starting to look better:
--Battery relocation
The conduit is mounted at the box, firewall, and engine bay.....the other clamps are attached to the center console trim, but are just to keep it in place. Overall, the wire is very secure and protected.
I was able to use a normal j-hook set up for the tie down. It just uses two pieces of aluminum that basically sandwich the battery and keep it from moving....again the box is just to hold the wires and breaker....the structure is all in the frame I bolted to the floor.
I used a seat rail bolt for the NEG wire. I made sure it was ALL bare metal with a wire wheel....bolted it down good....then sprayed a layer of Rustoleum to prevent rust.
--Master cylinder brace and fuel filter
Figured I would try one out....I'd say it helped the pedal feel a little bit...cool piece to have too. I bought a Perrin one for a GD knowing it wouldn't fit....but I made it work.
The oem fuel filter was obviously in the way....and I recently saw some people with a smaller inline filter....so I bought one online. It's from a company called JEGS, and is about the size of a D-battery.
The Perrin brace has 3 mounting holes...2 line up perfect where the fuel filter bracket was....but the 3rd needed a hole drilled. The set screw/bolt was also too short so I picked up a longer one from a hardware store. Feels solid.
--Antenna delete
Used the Grimmspeed block off plate. Pretty easy...the antenna just pulled right out. Took the a-pillar cover off for no reason. :lol:
...and here's the little bit of weight reduction from the past month. I know I added weight with the battery relocation....but I still like to keep track of the stuff I remove. I should be into the 2600's again....I just need to go get weighed
I'm doing the same thing w/ mine, cleaning it up, getting rid of the unnecessary weight and cleaning up rust. It's been in WA state it's whole life but there's quite a bit of rust still, good work though!
I regret rebuilding my ej205 because it's a long, arduous, nerve wracking, frustrating, and expensive process. But I beefed it up, so it's not all bad. The biggest problem has been remembering how everything went. I started the motor in school, so I took it apart in august, and am just now putting it back together. CP pistons, sti rods, king bearings, cross drilled crank. About $1600 in the shortblock, on top of the initial cost of the complete engine, crossmember, sway bar, and harness ($1500), then the UEL header (ebay unit, got it for free) up-pipe (used $100) downpipe (cnt-$280) and catback ($250 used SRS) makes the total cost about $3,730. About the same price as the car.
Thanks!
I've been following your thread for a long time....always a good read. The turbo'd ej22 set up is sweet....hopefully you get all the kinks worked out.
I'm doing the same thing w/ mine, cleaning it up, getting rid of the unnecessary weight and cleaning up rust. It's been in WA state it's whole life but there's quite a bit of rust still, good work though!
That's the only thing about GC's I hate...the rust! My rear 1/4 panel rust actually just started this year.....I saw it starting to bubble up over the summer. At least it managed to hold off 14 years of northeast winters.
I regret rebuilding my ej205 because it's a long, arduous, nerve wracking, frustrating, and expensive process. But I beefed it up, so it's not all bad. The biggest problem has been remembering how everything went. I started the motor in school, so I took it apart in august, and am just now putting it back together. CP pistons, sti rods, king bearings, cross drilled crank. About $1600 in the shortblock, on top of the initial cost of the complete engine, crossmember, sway bar, and harness ($1500), then the UEL header (ebay unit, got it for free) up-pipe (used $100) downpipe (cnt-$280) and catback ($250 used SRS) makes the total cost about $3,730. About the same price as the car.
Well like you said, its not all bad because you'll have a fresh engine.....definitely worth it in the end.
If I can ever find a 91-94 turbo leggy at the junkyard...I'll take it's super awesome engine and rebuild the bottom end to have a spare block....and eventually do a 205/22t hybrid.
love what youre doing. FYI I removed my front and rear bumper beams on my old car. I bet i lost like 50lbs total. Its crazy how little metal is in those jdm ones.
love what youre doing. FYI I removed my front and rear bumper beams on my old car. I bet i lost like 50lbs total. Its crazy how little metal is in those jdm ones.
I've decided to just cut the front one when I get my new bumper...to have some protection up front....and maybe get a JDM one for the rear.
Next weight reduction will be a catback....the oem wrx one is really heavy because of the muffler....so an aftermarket one should help me drop 10-15 lbs or so.
...I also want to keep a quiet exhaust, so my catback choice is pretty limited. I can't weld either, so that throws out making my own.
Right now...it's basically a stock WRX exhaust system....the ONLY aftermarket part is the Cobb catted downpipe. It's just as quiet as the ej22 with stock exhaust was.
I hate to hop on the Cobb bandwagon....but their catback is supposed to be quiet and about 10 lbs or so lighter than the OEM wrx one....I just need to find a used one.....but I still don't know....
Well like you said, its not all bad because you'll have a fresh engine.....definitely worth it in the end.
If I can ever find a 91-94 turbo leggy at the junkyard...I'll take it's super awesome engine and rebuild the bottom end to have a spare block....and eventually do a 205/22t hybrid.
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