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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,852 Posts
its possible your eyes are playing with you with the large contrast from green to red. i have blue led in all mine and the red shows up pretty well.

 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #382
its possible your eyes are playing with you with the large contrast from green to red. i have blue led in all mine and the red shows up pretty well.



Now I'm confused....I don't see red in the redline for either of the pictures you guys posted. Or is there not supposed to be? :lol:


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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,852 Posts
yeah, its supposed to be there. the led's dont shine enouh in the right direction for the redline section to illuminate. mine makes it a dark purpleish color.
 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #385
yeah, its supposed to be there. the led's dont shine enouh in the right direction for the redline section to illuminate. mine makes it a dark purpleish color.


Ahhh I see what you mean. That would bug me.


Oem ftw lol

Yea, or oem replacement. I like things that I can buy in store or at a dealership.....that way when I need one quickly I don't have to wait and order it. The LED ones would have to be ordered because I didn't see them in any store nearby.

I found these oem style bulbs at advance. Cheap, readily available, and work just fine.

 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #386
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

The weather this weekend was way too nice to blow the engine up trying to tune, so I did some windows down driving instead.

It's awesome to get some warm weather in the middle of winter to enjoy driving, since I spent all spring/summer/fall fixing the car.



I did install my test mode switch though. Really easy, took about 5 minutes. Used a spare set of 2 pin connectors, so it plugs right into the factory green connectors with no splices. Decided not to put it next to my serial port in the ashtray because it would get bumped too easy there.....and the wiring was much easier/shorter to run.

Dont need all 4 wires, just the 2 grounds need to be switched....atleast in my case. Due to this the switch doesn't light up, but I think it turned out looking decent.

Green test mode connectors = green switch. :lol:





Also was given a nice, old, serial cable with much thicker wires than my current one. Now I can re-do the splice and feel better about it. Hard to tell by the picture but you can kinda tell.

Gonna do that, and make the serial port more recessed into the dash than it currently is....kinda like how it would be on a computer. That way it looks a little better.



I'm also starting to think about a spare engine. Really considering an ej22 shortblock for cheapness....but it would also be nice to basically have a new engine and just order a 2.0 shortblock from Subaru. IAG is also close by (1 hour), but I'm not really a fan of the 2.5 engines.

Decisions, decisions.


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Registered
EJ205 1996 Brighton coupe
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663 Posts
Go for the ej22 block and ej205 heads. I'm putting one together as well. It's my $300 junkyard build ($150 for a full ej22 and $150 for good condition heads).
 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #389
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

Go for the ej22 block and ej205 heads. I'm putting one together as well. It's my $300 junkyard build ($150 for a full ej22 and $150 for good condition heads).

I'm really considering it. I'm still kicking myself for getting rid of the original 222 shortblock that came out of this car.

My only real concern is getting one with a good enough condition bottom end to be reliable. Maybe I should just get a complete 2.2 and not just the block so I can compression test it first. Although, even if the bottom needs a little work.....it'll still be cheaper than a new $2000 2.0 shortblock from Subaru.

I would want to stay with phase 2, right?...since the car was phase 2 originally, and has a phase 2 transmission?...or maybe, phase 2 block, with phase 1 pistons and the thicker headgasket?

I have to refresh my memory on ej22 stuff. It's been a while since I needed to know all the differences.


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Registered
EJ205 1996 Brighton coupe
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663 Posts
If possible, you want the phase 1 ej22, it had slightly lower compression ( I think it was 9.5 and the phase two was 9.7). People recommend the phase one block, and the 1999+ ej22 head gasket, since this HG was thicker then previous years. that's the best combo to get compression closer to 9.1:1.

When we did my brothers ej22/ej205 heads build, we used a phase two block and 99 HG. His should be around 9.3:1 CR. He still has a TD04 on his car, but he's put 35k miles on it already.
 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #391 (Edited)
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

^^^ I've done more reading and talking to people, and it does seem most use phase 1. The main reason I want phase 2 is because I'm lazy and don't want to deal with the whole 'starter not bolting up' issue....and generally, phase 2's are lower mileage than phase 1's at the pick-n-pull.

I might build one though, instead of trying to rely on a used block. I'm pretty sure I can throw some forged pistons in a 2.2, and still have it cost less than a new 2.0 shortblock from Subaru. Not that I need forged pistons....

Then....I had a horrible idea that you guys should talk me out of. :lol:
I take the 80,000 mile ej22 from the '98 sedan I bought, and give that shortblock to the coupe. It's the lowest mileage 2.2 engine I would ever find most likely. It's phase 1....pistons aren't as good as the older phase 1....but that low of mileage would be sweet.

Decisions, decisions.


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Also, want to clear up some misinformation I posted last time. The test mode switch DOES need all 4 wires.

I didn't notice at first, since it worked perfectly fine for regular test mode (fans/relays cycle on and off)....but to actually flash a map it wouldn't work. The 2 red wires are the initialization wires needed for flashing.

I couldn't find a decent looking/sized DPST switch, so I kept my SPST switch and wiring for the black wires....and just made a small jumper with one green plug for the red wires. The red/blue and red/white wires can stay connected forever...then switching just the 2 black wires will work.

Nice and simple, with no splices. Those green connectors are a PITA to de-pin for some reason. :lol:







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Experimenter
Tubaru Pickup
Joined
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3,910 Posts
youll need to make sure you OBD port is wired correctly for flashing. I have a switch on my test wire, it just comes out of ecu to switch and then to ground. Then theres like 4 wires need on the obd port. a 12v+, two grounds, and the SSM wire to the ecu. If you have abs and cruise youe need to leave them intact for future diagnostic if needed
 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #393 (Edited)
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

The obd port already works to flash, I only had issues the other day when I didn't set up the test mode switch correctly. Now that have the red/white and red/blue wires connected it all works as it should. Tried it out yesterday and changing maps was no problem....and much easier not having to crawl under the dash.

No cruise or abs.


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Edit: nevermind

Thought IDC's were too high but I forgot about latency being part of the %. At half throttle and 13-14 psi it'll hit 90%-100% idc. A few logs showed 102% but I don't remember what the latency was.

Either way, im getting bored of the td04 and might get a 16g or something.










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Experimenter
Tubaru Pickup
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3,910 Posts
100% DC is too high. A .7ms latency has very little to do with the IDC when your in the 20-25ms range in boost. Hows your AFR look. I see a lot of tuner noobs log the stock sensor afr and see it read a flat 11.12 or 11.25 afr at wot and think they have it all under control. Meanwhile they're in the 9/10 afr range and cant figure out why its misfiring. The stock sensor only reads down to 11.2ish
 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #395
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

Nah I don't really pay attention to the stock sensor in boost. I haven't logged the wideband yet, but when I glance over during a pull it usually in the upper 10's. Can't use Accesstuner to log with the locked protune map. The wideband is new so sometimes I forget it's there to look at.

It's probably a bit on the richer side. TurboXS's tuner is pretty conservative. I wonder if it was hitting 100% on the dyno pulls too.....I've only added an uppipe since then so I doubt that made a big difference. I'd ask the tuner, but he's pretty unresponsive for emails (Which is why I want to tune myself).

I've read that people were hitting 110% and still weren't leaning out.



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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #396
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

they're in the 9/10 afr range and cant figure out why its misfiring. The stock sensor only reads down to 11.2ish

Checked again last weekend and it's right around 10.5. Really need to log it and compare with the duty cycle and stuff. No misfiring or anything weird though.

Pretty much decided on just getting larger injectors and turbo soon. I've had basically the same engine set up since I swapped the car, so it's time for a change (more powah).


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Got some stuff I was working on recently that I'll post sometime this weekend.....but first I had a few questions for you guys:

1. Would it be wise to drill a hole in my gas cap since the EVAP is deleted?

I already have the large vent hose going to atmosphere.....but more places for the fumes to go can't hurt right? I have no issues so far with the EVAP delete, but in the summer with a full tank of gas I feel like there could be pressure issues.

2. Want to cut the trunk floor soon, but don't know what to do with my full size spare wheel. If I replace the floor with aluminum or plexiglass, I don't know if it would be sturdy enough to really secure the wheel.

Ideas? Wheel is 16x7.




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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,852 Posts
replace floor with alum like terry did. on the outside of the sheet in the frame rails, use some eye loop bolts and ratchet strap that mofo down.

or just put it in the back seat in seat belts.
 

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Premium Member
98 2.5RS - V2 WRX Swap
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1,590 Posts
In our rally car we have an aluminum sheet (with some bead rolling for stiffness) that's riveted in place of the old panel. We don't store the spare there, but its definitely strong enough if we wanted to.
 

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Premium Member
2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
Joined
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766 Posts
Discussion Starter #399 (Edited)
2001 Impreza L | WRX swapped daily | Damage repairs and weight reduction!

replace floor with alum like terry did. on the outside of the sheet in the frame rails, use some eye loop bolts and ratchet strap that mofo down.

or just put it in the back seat in seat belts.

Ahh, I didn't even think about putting anchor points on the sides. I like it. My brain was stuck on the factory mounting in the middle.

Though about the backseat and seatbelt too. Possible as a last option, but not as secure as I hoped.


In our rally car we have an aluminum sheet (with some bead rolling for stiffness) that's riveted in place of the old panel. We don't store the spare there, but its definitely strong enough if we wanted to.

Hmm, interesting. I wasn't sure if the bead rolling would be enough to support the wheel. Might have to go that route.

I mentioned the plexiglass because I got a free sheet of 1/8" and 1/4" that I've been trying to find a use for. The 1/4" is heavy as hell and the 1/8" stuff is so flimsy, it would need a brace underneath, like an "x" or something to be strong enough.

Could do that with aluminum strips/angle and lay the 1/8" plexi on top. Might be cheaper than the full aluminum sheet, but I could see a rock popping up and cracking it eventually. And still probably heavier.






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