[rokketride]

Is that the AVO inlet? I am thinking about getting that one in the future as it eliminates a potential leak point, but concerned it may make things trickier to work on if I need to get at avcs or something.

 

[RavensFan77]

I tried vice grips on my downpipe studs as well. The only thing rugged enough was a titanium step drill bit.

I'm surprised the vice grips worked. I kinda sacrificed them to get it done, because they're a little bent up now. I had to pry the handles apart with other tools to open them each time since they were clamped down so hard. :lol: Definitely not designed to be open and closed with other, larger, tools.

I was going to weld a nut to each stud to spin them out....but I figured MIG inside wasn't a good idea because fire.

Is that the AVO inlet? I am thinking about getting that one in the future as it eliminates a potential leak point, but concerned it may make things trickier to work on if I need to get at avcs or something.

Yea it's the avo. One less leak point was a big reason why I got it. I don't remember it getting in the way for working on anything, but my ej205 doesn't have avcs so I'm not sure. It's larger than oem so it's a tighter fit, but I think all the brands have slight fitment issues. Overall I'm very happy with it.

Edit: just remembered today that the inlet sits right over the cylinder 1 injector. It's hard to access the connector, but besides that it's not too bad.

 

[RavensFan77]

I just can't decide whether to beef up the clutch fork, or leave it alone. It didn't break yet, but now would be the time to do something since the engine is still out. I've read all the threads on here about it, but still don't know.
What do you guys think?

Re-inforced OEM fork?
06 WRX/LGT fork?
Nothing?

Current set up is:
-OEM L cable trans
-OEM L fork, pivot ball, and TOB
-06+ WRX clutch, PP, and flywheel

I like the 06+ fork, but having to modify things to make it work removes the peace of mind that it will have no issues. I know the OEM fork works, but the fact that it can break doesn't give me peace of mind either.

Welding the OEM fork seems cheap and easy enough, but I don't want to shift the stress point somewhere else and still have it break.

Idk

 

[Ted]

Brace the stock fork gets my vote. You won't have any unforseen issues.

 

[George.of.the.Jungle]

didnt ben (goldenfist) reinforce his.. i'll see if i can find pics.

 

[George.of.the.Jungle]

no, seems he just used all the oe 06 wrx items..

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/2642863-post756.html

 

[bue car]

Weld since it's free.99

 

[Ted]

didnt ben (goldenfist) reinforce his.. i'll see if i can find pics.

I'm pretty sure skidd did his. Not sure if he has a thread or not for it though. It might be in his journal.

 

[RavensFan77]

Ok, after more digging and looking stuff over, I'm NOT gonna do the 06 wrx fork. There's too many mixed results on what actually works.....what pivot ball and location, to grind the bellhousing or not, getting the cable to work. So I'm sticking with the cable fork, and will weld some bracing to it.

So....comparing the cable fork to the RS hydro one, they are rather different.
(Cable on left)

They even seem to break differently. The hydro ones can break wherever they want.....I've seen pictures of cracks in all sorts of spots. Commonly right at one of the fork "legs", like this one:

The cable fork has shorter "legs" and the pivot ball is lower. I haven't seen a picture of a broken cable fork like the hydro one above. One less weak point in the fork maybe. The cable ones seem to only crack in half or right across the pivot ball. Like these:

I don't necessarily think the cable fork is stronger, but maybe less likely to break because of the design and how it sits...if that makes sense. I might be completely wrong, but for some reason I feel better about the oem fork.
.

 

[RavensFan77]

Couple things before the clutch fork stuff....my catless uppipe and KillerB oil pick up arrived the other day. They're beautiful!

STi oil pan also arrived. Just waiting on the dipstick and baffle plate to install everything.

Took the tarp off for good. Soooo nice to actually see the car when i walk outside, and not a big blue tarp.

Also finally able to throw away the rest of the accident parts. No need to reference them anymore.

So here's what I ended up doing for the fork.

Bracing the backside had VERY limited options. The stupid clip for the pivot ball was in the way of everything. Boxing in the backside over the clip was not an option, so I went under the clip instead. Not as strong as over top, and still very limited room, but better than nothing.

You can see the limited room in these pics:

So for the backside of the fork, I cut 14ga pieces to fit under the clips and welded them all the way around.

The front was easy. 11ga (1/8" strip) welded right down the front. Not the prettiest thing, but it's super beefy now. The paint makes it look weird. Weights about twice as before. :lol:

 

[FryphaX]

Quality work on the fork!

 

[George.of.the.Jungle]

the car will literally break around that fork.

 

[bue car]

:lol: oh George.

 

[Michael T]

Holy ****, that fork is seriously heavy duty now.

 

[181stLeader]

Good work! My only worry is the ball will punch though the center of the socket, I have seen them do that before. :unamused:

 

[RavensFan77]

the car will literally break around that fork.

:lol: :lol:

Thanks guys. Hopefully this will help avoid a possible issue later on....also hopefully move the weak point to the cable. Broken cable is much easier to fix than a broken fork. Neither the cable or fork has broken yet, but I like to plan ahead.

Good work! My only worry is the ball will punch though the center of the socket, I have seen them do that before. :unamused:

Yea, that's definitely the weakest part of the fork now. :lol: I just couldn't figure out a good way to reinforce that spot.

Getting metal to sit along the curve of the socket would be hard. I'm open to ideas though....I could always go back and add a piece.

The TOB will get in the way towards the bottom, so it can't go all the way around or down.
(Picture of normal fork and TOB for reference)

 

[Ted]

I'd run a hot bead around the outside of the socket then criss-cross beads in a X pattern over the socket. That would stiffen it up.

The only downside is see is that it could make it more brittle than it was before. But I'm no engineer lol.

 

[RavensFan77]

I'd run a hot bead around the outside of the socket then criss-cross beads in a X pattern over the socket. That would stiffen it up.

The only downside is see is that it could make it more brittle than it was before. But I'm no engineer lol.

Yea I'm not sure how that would effect it. I also wouldn't want to go too hot and distort the socket. Good idea though, I might end up doing it.

 

[RavensFan77]

KillerB pickup and exhaust stuff installed this weekend. Almost ready for the engine to go back in, just a couple more parts to reinstall and hoses to replace.

My baffle plate and dipstick didn't show up. No dealers nearby had the parts, and needed the baffle to install the pan.

Luckily, IAG is awesome and stocks lots of parts. So I drove over there on Friday to get the oem baffle. Always love seeing their tr42 in the lobby:

Changing the oil pan wasn't too bad. Having the engine out and the whole exhaust off gave plenty of room to work. I bet it sucks to do with the engine in....hopefully mine doesn't leak.

Parts for memory purposes:
-STi pan= 11109AA131
-KillerB oil pickup
-Baffle plate= 10915AA010
-Dipstick= **still need**
-Dipstick tube= 15144AA011


Pics of the 2.0 WRX stuff compared to 2.5 STI stuff. 2.0 pan is lame.

The factory oil pickup didn't appear to have a crack, which is good....but the KillerB pickup is good peace of mind. Replaced all 14 rusty factory oil pan bolts with nice new stainless ones.

Also put the new exhaust set up together. Still need to replace 2 bolts and torque it all down, but the old rusty parts are off.

Goodbye stupid cat in the uppipe:

New things are:

-Derusted & coated oem WRX manifold
-Wrapped oem WRX crosspipe
-Grimmspeed catless & coated uppipe

Heat protection for the exhaust will be oem heat shields for the heavy cast collectors, wrap for the crosspipe, and nothing for the uppipe since its nicely coated. I don't expect the crosspipe wrap to last very long.

Here's just a random picture from underneath showing the new goodies. Looks nice now, but I bet the pan and exhaust will be rusty in about a year.

 

[George.of.the.Jungle]

looks amazing.