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'93 L wagon, '04 FXTi
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I say if your planning on synthetic change it as soon as possible
Uh, negative. Do not add synthetic until you are fairly sure your rings are seated. It's not like plain dino oil is so horrible you'll suffer extra wear in the first 3000 miles of use.
 

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2003 Buell XB9R
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4 Posts
also i would like to add that if you go to Full synthetic; you can go back:) most people will disagree though. oh well.
 

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1997 OBS
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41 Posts
Did my first oil change on MY97 OBS...by far the easiest oil change i have ever done. I didn't need a jack or jack stand. Just slide underneath loosen the drain plug, take out the old oil filter/put new filter in, reseal drain plug, fill new oil.

Took me like 6 minutes.
 

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98 Outback Sport
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1,249 Posts
a tip i thought id like to put in here is when i cant find my oil filter wrench i use a strip of sand paper and that gets the oil filter loose real easy
 

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'93 L wagon, '04 FXTi
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I have two things to say about oil and break-in.

One, regular mineral oil is better than synthetics of the early to mid 90s. Seriously, check your owner's manual. It says that under normal conditions, you can go between 5k and 7.5k miles between changes without specifying synthetics. It's not crap (unless it's Pennzoil and full of wax). Plain oil that costs more than $3/quart works just fine.

Two, I own a repair shop that warranties its engine builds on turbo and non-turbo vehicles. 500 miles on cheap mineral oil, then we switch you to synthetic and do oil analysis at 1500 miles. Oil these days is a secondary factor in engine wear. If it's built right, it will run right. Under given conditions, good quality synthetic will last longer, but even cheap mineral/dino oil will last more than 3k if you aren't burning or leaking it. I advise my customers that you can run cheap oil in your engine for up to 4500 miles, or good synthetic for up to 7500 if you are losing less than a quart between oil changes.

Bonus advice: Turbos kill oil, but not mileage. If you don't have a turbo, go to 5k miles or however long it takes you to burn a quart, whichever is less. If you are uncomfortable extending your OCI, that's fine, but don't pay for premium oil if you change it more often than 3 times a year unless you drive 20k miles or more per year.

Bonus two: spend money on a good filter, not premium oil. Fram orange filters and the $2.99 special at the auto parts store suck; if it costs more than $4, it works just fine.
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS Blue
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1 Posts
I just bought a 2001 RS coupe and was thinking of changing the air filter along with the oil change and oil filter. I figured this would be a good start. Suggestions ?
 

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Whenever we get older Subarus in at my dealer, with the older 2.5's, we use conventional 5W-30 unless the customer is smart and requests synthetic. The service interval for 5W-30 engines is 3 month - 3,750 miles with conventional 5W30, and 6 month, 7,500 service on anything with synthetic 5W-30.

However, the new 0W-20 cars we do 6 month - 6,000 for anything 2015 and up. but only for 0W-20 engines.

Everything my dealer uses is Pennzoil also.
 

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1996 imp jdm ej20 NA dohc swap
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400 Posts
Whenever we get older Subarus in at my dealer, with the older 2.5's, we use conventional 5W-30 unless the customer is smart and requests synthetic. The service interval for 5W-30 engines is 3 month - 3,750 miles with conventional 5W30, and 6 month, 7,500 service on anything with synthetic 5W-30.

However, the new 0W-20 cars we do 6 month - 6,000 for anything 2015 and up. but only for 0W-20 engines.

Everything my dealer uses is Pennzoil also.
You should take a look at the shell rotella T-5 10w30 oil for the older 2.5's. It is a more stable oil than your off the shelf 5w30's either dino or part synthetic. High mileage oil is in a different class and is NOT gf-5 rated which is good.

~Josh
 
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