Hi all looking to swap in the tranny from an 2017 STI to my RS. I realize very tough, but thinking could I buy the cradles from 04 to 07 STI to use for the front and back? Also 04 STI adjustable rear lateral links?
Also the front is not straightforward as people say... the 5x114.5 knuckles requires GD swaybar, and GD subframe, but once you put the GD subframe in the steering rack doesn't fit without cutting the subframe... one can solve it differently like using the GD rack, but then the column doesn't work... so they weld or do spline adapters... I was sicking of spending more money on GD parts so I cut the subframe for the RS rack.
I am waiting for my original account to be reset for me to do a write up... also.. havnt had much time to get around ... I was in a big rush so I couldn't get a lot of pictures... but have some. I got a rolled car.... but I would suggest just getting trannies and engine pallets even though it would be more expensive in parts the labor is a lot less (even if you are doing yourself...)
After driving this around with the GD swaybars I got for it (front 24mm and rear 27mm) and using all GD coilovers, it turns very aggressively, great for corners, but a bit twitchy at high high speeds, I didn't have confidence to go over 150kms... but the weight of the RS is a lot less than the GD and it maybe the coilovers or sway bar combination, but it turns very quickly.... I need to do more driving on dry pavement, and maybe play around with the spider DCCD... but I couldn't imagine a GR steering rack along with this... it maybe too much turn in for a street car.
Pics just for reference, btw, the rear brakes on the GRs DO NOT work on this swap since you have to use the GD hubs and rotors... so for the back I have gold GD brakes and the front I have the black GR brakes...
Trying to get around to this. I didn't feel my case was a good example of this swap and will mention below why.
I bought a 2017 rolled STI from salvage around 5k USD but with transport it cost around 7k total. There is virtually nothing I used except the engine, engine harness, all sensors, tranny, and rear diff, wheels. front brakes,
Then I moved everything I could over along with JDM V8 drive shaft, axles, knuckles, hubs, (new) rotors 5x 114.5, brakes, Linkage (I got a new short shift one instead of dirty salvage), cross member
I would assume you need to get V8 of the following but I bought new rear endlinks, Ball socket and rear endlink kit, front center adjustment kit and new swaybars and bushings. see above for the rest of the suspension.
I am less of a help with the engine and turbo. I already had a custom GT30 setup so I had little problem going to the rotated STI setups - I just bought the perrin down and uppipe and they fit my setup perfectly. I used stock engine at first with stock headers. I already had a FMIC and just added fuel rails and new injectors.
ALL wiring merge was done with iwire to a Haltech Elite with TGV deleted and no emissions (I don't need to where I live so also not a great example for swap).
DBW was done easily with iwires DBW adapter**
I used spider DCCD and iwire did all my harnesses
I used the RS Radiator because the 2017 doesn't fit but I may upgrade to aftermarket. Needed to cut up hoses for V8 aftermarket silicone hoses to get it to work.
- review - I don't know if I would recommend this, since it is really a gamble with salvage cars, but when I looked at the V8, V9 engines and trannys they were old, rusty and beat up and the wreckers never really gave good enough background on the pallets that I liked. so I went looking for salvage I just tried to make sure there were no cracks on engine and tranny and since mine didn't start I just went through the gears and checked the oil, the ones that start and have engine running all were going for over 12k for anything newer than 3 years with major damage. Those with hail damage were going for 25k or more so I think I got "lucky" even though I got a burnt engine and replaced with long block. I knew I wanted a short block anyway so i did it for the tranny and the brakes and engine peripherals and heads (the small bits add up if you buy them new from dealer or aftermarket).
A friend and I did all the labor in a garage so its doable for anyone with willpower and some researching. we did it in around 45 days with me every day and my friend helping on nights and weekends.
Would I do it again, absolutely, learned a ton and now can do anything on subarus I feel. Cost effective? so will say no some will say yes, because I have all new powertrain and an awesome ECU and a car I love (again). My case isn't a good example, but this was my experience.