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Discussion Starter #122
Having to replace shift forks is basically a full transmission rebuild for these six speeds, that is fun!
I'm not certain yet, but I don't think it was a shift fork. It's the gear selector fork that broke off (see post #111). Trans should be getting torn down this week and will know more soon!

One of the best rotated intake manifold jobs out there!
Appreciate that! It was a TON of work :)
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Got some transmission carnage pics back, for your viewing pleasure. As suspected, one of the ears for of the shift selector barrel broke off (3rd gear). Parts are on order and should hopefully be ready by next week. Everything else inside looked great so that's good news




Pic for reference again of the piece I found in the pan when I took it off
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Social Distancing/Quarantine update! Hopefully everyone is staying healthy.

I got my transmission back a couple of weeks ago and was able to get it back in the car last week. I mounted up the catch can where I was hoping it would fit and it's a perfect fit. It has comfortable clearance near the axle and steering linkage and sits just under/behind the starter. It 's also in a spot that I can reach to drain it without even having to jack the car up, which is pretty convenient.




I installed some Aluminati solid trans x-member bushings as the tranny went back in. I hooked up the shifter linkage and wanted to test 3rd before filling it with oil. 3rd works! But, WTF, I no longer have a working reverse lockout. I fiddled with the cable some more, but came to the conclusion it had to be internal. I had to undo most of the work I had done, but luckily you can drop the tail housing without dropping the entire trans...
FML


This is the reverse lockout plunger mechanism. There is a pin that needs to be dropped into the hole I'm pointing to before the plunger is put back in. That pin rides on a "cam" that releases the lockout when the lever is pulled. My theory is, that with the transmission sitting vertical so that it's on the face of the bellhousing - if you were to remove that plunger the pin would fall out without you even knowing. The plunger would right back in without any issue or knowledge of the pin falling out...until you see it laying on the bench once you complete reassembly lol


OTL was quick to send me a replacement pin and after A LOT of cussing I was able to get everything back together. Having never taking the tail housing off the trans...it was a learning experience to say the least. Honest mistake, but it's all good now
:)


Lastly in transmission related news, my output shaft is a little twisted so when that breaks at least I'll know how to replace it (OTL did let me know that it was twisted, which is fairly common)


Another project I was working on in the meantime was converting my TBE to all v-band flanges. Mostly for the reason of being able to quickly and easily change between an obnoxiously loud axleback to the quieter Q300 axelback, but also to eliminate some minor exhaust leaks from under the car.
("muff" was short for muffler side
:)
)


First time welding stainless on an actual project. By the 4th flange, I was getting a little better


Finished product:


 

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Discussion Starter #125
Back on all 4's (the car too)


Sunlight!


A little walk around of the dusty girl, because testing a new GoPro and why not...

3rd gear works
:cool:
. In hindsight, not the greatest view with the GoPro on the head.
(this was on e30 so it's turned down a little lol)

Excited for another track day to see how deep in the 10's it can go with a tranny that shifts.
 

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Why does it seem like those BBS wheels poke so much? Is it due to widetrack drivetrain or do you have spacers? Or both?

Do you think it would be possible to mount the IAG AOS using their 02-07 Pitch mount bracket? Or would it just not work at all on a GC pitch mount?

Also, would you be interested in shaving an NA inlet manifold? I've picked one up and need it to be modified but not sure I trust my own skills to do a good job (I'd pay obviously).. I wouldn't need it modified for reverse mounting, just shaving and some bosses/fittings moved/adjusted.. LMK

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Why does it seem like those BBS wheels poke so much? Is it due to widetrack drivetrain or do you have spacers? Or both?

Do you think it would be possible to mount the IAG AOS using their 02-07 Pitch mount bracket? Or would it just not work at all on a GC pitch mount?

Also, would you be interested in shaving an NA inlet manifold? I've picked one up and need it to be modified but not sure I trust my own skills to do a good job (I'd pay obviously).. I wouldn't need it modified for reverse mounting, just shaving and some bosses/fittings moved/adjusted.. LMK

Thanks!
I think maybe they look like they poke a little because of the 245 tires. Wider track with the 07 STi lateral links in the rear and control arms up front. They actually sit pretty flush fitting even though it may not look like it in the recent pics. No spacers.

I’m not sure on the pitch stop mount. I’ve never used one so can’t really speak on how it might fit. I have my fuel filter mounted there. The aos fits ok on the passenger side strut tower, but takes some massaging of the hood if you want it as high as possible so it drains efficiently.

I’d be open to shaving a manifold. It’s a ton of work to make it clean though. Shoot me a PM if you’d like, with what you have in mind.
 

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I think maybe they look like they poke a little because of the 245 tires. Wider track with the 07 STi lateral links in the rear and control arms up front. They actually sit pretty flush fitting even though it may not look like it in the recent pics. No spacers.

I’d be open to shaving a manifold. It’s a ton of work to make it clean though. Shoot me a PM if you’d like, with what you have in mind.
Good to know, those are quite beefy tires so it probably adds to the affect.. How much negative camber are you running? It doesnt look like much.

PM sent on the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Good to know, those are quite beefy tires so it probably adds to the affect.. How much negative camber are you running? It doesnt look like much.

PM sent on the manifold.
It needs an alignment, to be honest. Just a couple of degrees negative in the rear to clear the rolled fenders and about as close to 0 as possible in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I bought an 18' steel trailer from a buddy last week for a pretty good deal. I've been casually looking for one and anything "decent" is in the $2500+ range so I figured this would be perfect to tide me over until I can buy something newer.

Well...unfortunately I needed to use the trailer much earlier than anticipated - two days after buying the trailer due to grenading 2nd gear while sendin' er a little too hard. Pretty bummed considering I just got the trans back in the car less than 100 miles ago. This failure is completely unrelated to the previous failure and/or service done to the trans over the winter. This repair will likely be a little more costly than the previous. Not sure how quickly I'll have it back together yet



 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Long overdue update...

This past weekend I was able to get the trans pulled and get the gear stacks out of trans for further inspection.

Check out my "not a how-to" thread for details on the 6MT tear down:

Carnage pics to follow. Viewer discretion advised...











So looking like the parts list is going to be:
Main input shaft (1st and 2nd drive gears are part of the shaft)
2nd gear, driven
And the bearing that is in a dozen pieces that was on the bottom of the driven gear stack

Could be worse. Putting it all back together will be an adventure, I'm sure!
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Update/parts list

Part Number Part Name
32201AB170 (Sft Trans Main)
32275AA560 (Gear CP 3RD Drive)
806438010 (Ndle Brg 38X43X25)
806562020 (Thrust Bearing 62X82X3.6)
35211AA220 (Oil guide)
32650AA150 (Synchronizer Set)
32650AA160 (Syncro Set)
32629AA000 (Carbon Ring)
802628030 (Lk Nut 28X14.5)
803528030 (Lock Washer 28X42X2.9)
802645010 (Lk Nut 45X10.5)
32650AA140 (Synchronizer Set)
32251AA890 (Gear 2ND Driven)

I ordered these parts late July and found that 32251AA890 was on backorder until 8/15. I didn't really want to wait so I started looking into compatibility between years. As most know 04-06 are a different gear ratio. 07 was updated with the longer 1-4 ratio. 08+ has the same ratio as 07, but they also ditched the oil pump. In my mind I couldn't see why the 2nd driven gear from 08+ wouldn't work on the same gear ratio trans from 07 so I substituted 32251AA890 ('07 specific part) for 32251AA980 (08+).

I took the gearsets and all my parts down to OTL and we spent an hour or two swapping stuff out. The process is very straight forward if you are familiar with a hydraulic press...press the gears off the shaft...press new ones on. The tricky part is the removal/torquing of the nuts that hold both stacks together.
  • The main shaft is a 38mm nut which we were able to spin off with an impact. The nut is "staked" after it's torqued so it's kind of stubborn taking it off. Reinstallation requires 289ft-lb per the service manual, then stake the nut so it can't spin off. (Note: this nut is not reusable. It also has a lock washer under it. Both included in replacement parts list)
  • The driven (pinion) shaft is a bit trickier which requires some Subaru specialty tools. Adapter Wrench 18620AA000 and torque wrench 18852AA000 (basically a 5ft tq wrench). Additionally there is a base18666AA000 that the gearset rests on and a holder 18664AA000 that the splines of the driven shaft fit into to hold the whole thing from spinning as you're taking the nut off. Reinstallation requires 391ft-lb (!) per the service manual, then stake the nut so it can't spin off as well. (Note: this nut is not reusable and was included in replacement parts list.)
We got everything swapped over and before torquing the nuts we gave everything a once over (luckily). We discovered the 1/2 slider will not engage 2nd gear. Go figure...that's the gear that I thought I was being clever swapping out. Needless to say, that's not gunna work so we took the driven stack back apart and I went home with the gearset in more pieces than I went there with originally. It was a bit of a wasted trip, but I learned a bunch.

In hindsight this was a bit of a blessing because when I ordered parts I ordered synchros, but I didn't order "sliders" (Sleeve Hub Assy) not knowing that those should likely be replaced with they syncros. Apparently these are what wear out more so than the synchros and the teeth on my 1/2 and 3/4 sliders are a little beat up. I'm wondering if this might be why 2 to 3 shift is hit or miss (mostly miss). So I got 32251AA890 (Gear 2ND Driven for '07 STI) ordered now that it's in stock at this point and I also ordered 1/2 and 3/4 slider so those will be getting replaced as well. Everything should be pretty fresh inside at this point!

2nd parts order:
32251AA890 (Gear 2ND Driven (the correct gear for '07 STI))
32605AA330 (Sleeve Hub Ay (1/2 slider))
32605AA310 (Sleeve Hub Ay (3/4 slider))

Side by side of the 980 ('08+) vs 890 ('07 specific) 2nd driven gear.



You can see in this close up the slight difference in where the slider engages the gear



This one makes it pretty obvious there is a difference in the "depth" of the engagement teeth


This video shows the issue. The slider (where the shift fork would normally sit allowing you to shift between 1st and 2nd) will only partially engage 2nd gear. It might kinda work, but would likely have to hold the shifter in 2nd to keep it engaged. You can't really see in this video, but it fully engages 1st no issue. So this "slider" as well as the 3/4 slider is what I'm also replacing. The teeth that guide the slider past the synchro onto the gear are a little worn on both sliders. Overall I'm just happy we caught this now.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
I got the transmission all put back together and back in the car a few weeks ago. It was done 1 day too late to make the LAX cruise, but hopefully next year. Reassembly was fairly straightforward - the most difficult part was aligning the gear selector ears in their correct spot and keeping them in place as you slide the case on over everything.

So far, so good. I am really glad that I replaced the slider/sleeve for 1/2 and 3/4. The 2 to 3 shift is butter now - hopefully no more 3rd gear lockouts. I am still a little apprehensive FFS 1 to 2, but I've tried it once now and it held together.

Testing out my Hero7 with some exhaust noises to tickle your earholes...

2-3-4 full rip

Idle/normal driving clip
 

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Exhaust sounds fantastic! I need to make that a ringtone!

Keep it up!
 
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