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Discussion Starter #101
Originally posted 6/24/19

Turbo inlet/intake is done. Took the easy road and just made the 3" and without the vband provision that would have allowed for switching between the normal filter pipe and a headlight ram air/velocity stack. If I get ambitious enough, perhaps I can work on another inlet at some point in the future.

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So because this manifold was highly modified, welded on a bunch, and built by an amateur at best (me) the TGV's are not quite perfectly on the same "plane", causing the drivers side to slightly leak around the #4 intake port no matter how hard I'd crank it down. @Aluminati got me hooked up with some custom milled TGV spacers to remedy the issue. He keeps 19mm spacers in stock, but he offered to mill down a set to 10mm for me. These replaced the leaking 8mm phenolic spacers/oem tgv gaskets and they seal perfectly thanks to the o-ring design! Thanks again Matt!
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Lastly, a little update - the car has been progressively idling and cruising rougher and rougher even since last year. Warm starts are extremely hard to start. This weekend while out cruising it threw a code for a front o2 sensor...which was kind of a relief because I'm almost certain this is what has been attributing to the closed loop fuel issues and it just finally threw the CEL. New sensor will be here Wednesday so we will see. Been seeing idle/cruising AFRs in the 11-13 range. Thought maybe my wideband was on the fritz, but checking fuel trims confirmed there was some type of issue going on. Open loop fueling seems spot on, which makes sense because it doesn't use the front 02 for that, so I'm encouraged the new o2 sensor will fix it. To be continued!
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Originally posted 7/2/19
New o2 sensor did not resolve the rich closed loop fueling. It cured the CEL obviously, but still 11-13afr in closed loop fueling situations. Tuner confirmed the VE is all out of wack due to the intake/piping changes. He's going to send me a revised base map, but dyno tuning will not happen until Aug 7-8. Kinda bummed to miss out on Subifest Midwest (end of July) and Powercruise at BIR again this year (first weekend in August), but at least it will be good to go for LaX Cruise as long as it stays in one piece on this dyno this time.
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I also installed a new AEM wideband to confirm my Zeitronix sensor wasn't on the fritz (confirmed it reads basically the same). Upon installing the new sensor, I wired the 0-5V output from my new wideband to the rear o2 sensor signal wire (rear 02 is deleted) so that I can utilize the custom sensor monitoring feature built into Cobb's software. Pretty cool that I can read and log AFR on the Accessport now. Wiring in the signal wire was much easier than I had anticipated. I had an old rear o2 sensor laying around that I clipped the connector off of, repinned it, and now it's a plug and play harness to connect the rear o2 connector to the wideband signal wire. Neat-o
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Originally posted 7/15/19
I found a nice cozy home for my electric/hydro power steering pump. I got my high pressure fitting 16mm x1.5 to 6AN installed and I used a barb to 6AN for the return. I'm waiting on fluid as well as lines to plumb it, but they should be here this week. Wiring will be as simple as power, ground, and trigger wire, on a relay. Really looking forward to seeing how this works out.
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I also decided, since I'm still waiting on the a base map anyway and tuning is still a few weeks away, to ditch the IAG AOS and switch over to a dual catch can setup. The main reason for this is because the "Y" pipe that comes out of the main crankcase vent that is used for the IAG AOS is quite restrictive due to the fitting that is inside the 3/4" hose. (this is an old photo)
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I didn't install the 12AN fitting into the block when I had the motor out last because there was just no way to run the drainback from the AOS while using a stock location turbo...just not enough room for all the AN fittings/T fittings, etc. But now that I don't have to worry about the drain back, I can just run the main crank vent with a 12AN line straight to it's own catch can, then both valve covers to their own catch can. I think it will let the motor breathe a little more freely. My only concern is can capacity, but won't know if it will be an issue until later.

The stock 3/4" barb fitting that is pressed into the block took "a little convincing" to come out. I used my trusty home made slide hammer, but I just couldn't get a good enough grip on the fitting and it kept slipping off. Ultimately, I had to use a flat head and a hammer to chisel a chunk of the fitting and fold it over for something for the vise grip on the slide hammer to grab onto. Finally it let free and I was then able to replace it with the 12AN press in fitting.
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Also, finally tried on my new shoes. Should be no issue in the front, but in the rear I will likely need to raise the ride height a bit.
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Discussion Starter #104
Originally posted 7/26/19
This past week I was able to get the power steering pump plumbed and wired. It works! It's not as loud as I was expecting either. I haven't driven the car yet, but I can definitely tell it's working when running. The wiring wasn't as simple as power and ground as I may have alluded to earlier...

I ran a 10 gauge fused power wire to a 40A relay that's mounted near the pump in the fender well. The 12v trigger wire comes from the 12v side of my fuel pump relay so that when the fuel pump relay is energized the power steering pump relay is also energized - Pin C1 on the MR2 pump also T's into this trigger wire. Instead of grounding the remaining wire on the relay like you normally would, this wire gets run to pin B5 on the MR2 pump. My understanding is this is how the pump regulates voltage as it senses load. As it senses load when you turn the wheel the pump speeds up and under no load, it winds down. Looking forward to seeing how it does on the road.

Here is a quick and dirty diagram for anyone interested:
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As I mentioned earlier, I got rid of the IAG AOS and opted to go with a catch can setup. The cans are from Mighty Mouse Solutions. They are pretty popular in the LS world from what I've read and seem to be of very high quality. I'm now running a 12AN press in fitting on the main crank vent on the block to a 12AN 60 degree push lock fitting. The 60 degree fitting fits perfectly between the outlet of the turbo and the bellhousing. This then goes into a 3/4" hose to one dedicated catch can. The other can will have inlets for both valve covers, 8AN fittings and hose. I'm waiting on the fittings and hoses, but I began mounting them. I made a bracket for one out of some 1/8" aluminum that I have left over and I still need to figure out how I'm going to mount the 2nd one. Also looking forward to see how these do. The engine should be breathing more freely with this setup for sure.
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Discussion Starter #105
Originally posted 8/21/19

It's been a while since an update. Been SUPER busy these past few weeks getting the car buttoned up, tuned as well as building a campground cruiser and prepping for a trip to BIR for NHRA Nationals.

Pre-tune final engine bay pics
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Got the car tuned once again at Off The Line Performance in Des Moines, IA by JrTuned
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Gainz...
Pump gas 91 with no timing in it and ~20psi
491/433 - Dynojet
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e70 at ~34psi
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658/617 - Dynojet
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Two videos of the same 658/617 tug, but from different angles...RIP headphone users.

It exceeded my expectations. I thought 650 would be a reach, but it seemed to get there with ease and the torque followed along. Last time the car was tuned it made 590/480 on ethanol and the same boost. The new setup seems to be very efficient! IAT's topped at about 110 F on a full pull on a hot muggy day and they drop back to ambient temp very quickly. Very happy with where the car is at right now and cannot wait to get it to the strip. The car is a whole new beast!

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Discussion Starter #106
Originally posted 8/21/19

Two days after that, we joined the club for the 2019 MNSubaru LaX Cruise and had a blast despite a few showers on the way down. Shoutout to @MilkyDaddy for the killer pics and double shoutout for him taking home the best in show award! Thank you and congrats!! And thanks to all who make it a great event each year!
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On another note, I noticed a pretty severe voltage issue while on the cruise that was causing all of my lights to go bright then dim, and repeat constantly. I had to get a jump in the Walmart parking lot before we began. Junior mentioned something about some voltage fluctuation while tuning, but it wasn't nearly as bad then as it was on the cruise. I think my 3 year old Odyssey battery is on its last leg. I'm planning on switching back to a full size battery simply because it's really not that much weight savings and now with the additional draw of the electric power steering pump, a bit more capacity wouldn't hurt - I'm sure my alternator will thank me. I will need to figure out a decent full size battery mount. Preferably something that will mount to the driver's side fender somehow, similar to how I have the current battery mounted. Might have to #bushfab something together.
 

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Discussion Starter #107 (Edited)
Originally posted 8/28/19

We made a last minute decision to head down to Cedar Falls last Friday as they had open test and tune until 9:30PM...I didn't run anything spectacular, but made one halfway decent pass out of 3... The car wheel hopped badly, I short shifted to 2nd and then missed 3rd...got back in it and still managed a [email protected] This was still on street tires as well (hence the still terrible 60'). I think it's safe to say the car still has a couple more mph in it on a clean pass and certainly a low 10 in it if I can learn to drive
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I raised the ride height about 1/2" all around the car and the drag radials are now on for the 7th. I also finally replaced the driver front axle (leaking/torn boot for a while) - I wanted to do that before putting the new wheels on so they don't get full of grease immediately. I've also taken all of the negative caster out of the car, at least as much as I can via the camber plate adjustment. The new meats were a smidge too close to the rear of the front wheel well. Also having more positive caster helps in keeping the car straight (adversely, it causes a bit heavier steering feel). In making the caster adjustment, I'm going to have to adjust the toe and camber as well. The camber will be easy as there is enough "slop" in the lower coilover mount that will allow for a couple degrees of camber in either direction. The toe I will probably just get it as close as I can and then ultimately take it somewhere and have them put it on the alignment rack and dial it in. I don't want to wear these tires out too quickly due to the toe being all out of wack.

****ty iPhone video of the ****ty 10.97 pass:

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NEW RIMZZZZ
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Doggo approves of new wheel/tire setup
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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Originally posted 9/9/19

I was able to make it down to Cedar Falls this past weekend for test and tune Saturday afternoon. It was gloomy all day, but the rain held out long enough to get a few passes in. I drove the car down there again (knowing I'm really pushing my luck getting away with that), this time with the drag radials on. I managed a new PB on the first hit despite missing 3rd gear (yet again)...

That 60' tho!
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I made another mediocre pass, again missing 3rd...then another pass...again, missing 3rd (video below). This time, 3rd gear turned into neutral. I think I broke the 3/4 shift fork, but not certain. 1st and 2nd work fine. I can go 2-5-6 no problem, but nothing there in 3rd. It will shift into 4th normal, but then doesn’t come out of 4th once it’s in. I have to come to a complete stop and shut the car off to get it out and back into 1st.

As you might know following the build, the 3rd gear miss/lockout has been an ongoing issue since day one...well since drag racing day one. The only way I had a prayer of getting it to go in was if I slammed it home. I wonder if the synchro has been hurt all this time and finally took a **** and ended up breaking the fork or something? The odd thing is, on the pass that broke it, I didn’t even get it into 3rd. Slammed it, missed as usual and let out...then realized she gone.

Luckily I was able to get the car home without any issue shifting from 2nd to 5th as needed. It wasn't as bad as one might imagine actually lol. I haven't had a chance to even get under the car to see if it might be something stupid, but I think it will be a more involved and expensive endeavor as opposed to a simple fix. Plan for now is to let the car sit and hopefully get the trans rebuilt over this winter.

Unfortunately it was an early end to the season for the car, but at least she went out on a good note with a new PB! Back to her home on jackstands lol...To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #110 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/27/20

I finally pulled the RS out from its hibernation corner to start prepping it for the upcoming season. I need to pull the trans and get it down to Off The Line Performance for a complete rebuild. I'm really curious what let go, but my guess is a shift fork broke. I picked up some 12 ton jack stands so I could get the car up quite a bit higher. The lowest setting on these big stands is still higher than my 3 ton jack stands fully extended, so that's kinda neat. Also, doggo.
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In other news, nothing like ruining a perfectly good, brand new, IAG AOS...I'm converting it over to AN fittings since my valve cover vent lines are already AN and I don't want to go back to rubber hoses. I know IAG makes a "race" version of their AOS with AN fittings, but it's $100 more expensive for that option and at the time I was planning on converting back to just regular hoses. I had the weld on fittings laying around from other stuff so I figured why not just convert it...I'm definitely a bit rusty with the aluminum tig welding though!
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Besides the trans rebuild and the new (new) AOS setup, I don't have any other immediate plans for the car this year. If the stars align, this could be the first year I get to enjoy the car for a full summer without a catastrophic breakdown (probably just jinx'd myself hard, but one can hope).
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/30/20

Trans is out and ready for a ride to OTL...
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I found this little nugget in the pan when I dropped it to see if I could see any carnage. I believe it's the ear off of the gear selector, which makes sense considering I have nothing when trying to shift to 3rd.
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Here's a pic from the interwebs of what I believe broke
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As long as nothing else got chewed up as this piece made it's way down to the pan, I don't think the repair will be too costly
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Originally posted 1/30/20

I made some more progress on my AN conversion on the AOS. I welded a 8AN bung to the oil drain pipe
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Then also welded two 8AN fittings (valve cover vents) and a 12AN fitting (main crankcase vent) to the AOS
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Mounted. Hood shuts after some slight additional massaging
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I'm going to route the AOS oil drain back into one of the valve cover vents as opposed to using the Y fitting that would normally be in the main crankcase vent hose. Mainly, because going from the AOS drain to that Y fitting would be slightly uphill due to the way I have the hoses routed currently. Secondly, I want to run a 12AN hose straight off the main crank vent to the AOS without any step downs. I'm planning on just throwing a 8AN T fitting right off of the valve cover and plumbing the drain line into that.
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2001 SRP RS Coupe, 05 FXT
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Still need to catch up on the last few bits, but glad to see you posted this here. I had been lurking over on the MN forums following this, but kind of forgot about it since i wasn't a member.
 

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Badass car! Been watching yer youtube for some time glad to see you here.
Keep up the good work
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Finally finished the AOS hose routing and also powder coated it. I did end up routing the AOS oil drain to the passenger side baffled (nearest to AVCS solenoid) valve cover port, so we'll see how that goes. The main 1" vent hose at the top of the AOS will be routed to a catch can that I will be mounting to my transmission (in theory), so I suppose if I see that catch can filling up, I'll know my AOS drain configuration isn't happy.

Pre-coating mockup
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Finished product. Also finally coated my intake pipe that's been raw since I built it
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Preview of the catch can setup bolted to the trans (before I took it to OTL last week). I'm just not sure how close to the axle it's going to be...will have to wait until it's back in the car to see if I need to move the mount. Again, the 1" hose from the top of the IAG Comp AOS will vent/drain to this -16 catch can fitting. And, doggo stretch

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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You're really making me want to swap to AN lines!
 

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2001 Impreza 2.5RS+T 2001 Legacy GT
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Having to replace shift forks is basically a full transmission rebuild for these six speeds, that is fun!
 
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