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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I started a build thread on a local Subaru forum about 4 years ago, but figured I'd share my progression here as well since there's a much larger user base here and that forum is slowly dying :(


Updated 2/4/2020
Engine
Ej25 705 case halves
IAG v2 closed deck process
Manley Platinum series pistons 100mm
Manley H-Tuff rods
Nitride treated crank
Killer B oil pickup
Killer B windage tray
mild ported B25 heads
GSC S1 cams
GSC intake and exhaust valves
GSC stopper style intake and exhaust guides
GSC beehive valve springs
GSC Titanium retainers
ARP 625+ head studs
.051" JE ProSeal head gaskets

Power
FP Black turbo
ID1700 injectors
IAG V2 fuel rails
IAG -6AN braided fuel line kit
IAG AVCS/Turbo SS braided lines
Custom NA short runner manifold welded to IAG TGV deletes
AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor
AEM IAT sensor
OTL Performance Street Series coil packs
Boomba throttle body
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
Radium Dual pump hanger with 2x Walbro 450 pumps
Fuelab 81831 6 micron fiberglass element inline fuel filter
MAPerformance ELH
Grimmspeed 38mm ewg uppipe
Tial 38mm ewg
Cobb EBCS
Invidia catless downpipe
Custom straight pipe axleback
Mildly ported intake manifold
10mm Aluminati TGV spacer
Custom 3” turbo inlet/intake
Odyssey PC680 battery
Custom built intercooler using a Treadstone core
Custom IC piping
TIAL 50mm BOV
Vibrant vacuum block
IAG AOS
Koyo "1819" (90-94 Turbo Legacy Fitment) Radiator
2x SPAL 30101522 12" curved blade puller slim fans
Moroso aluminum coolant expansion tank relocated
Beatrush motor mounts
A/C delete
Air pump delete
Evap/charcoal canister system delete
v3 Accessport - Speed Density Cobb FlexFuel - JrTuned

Transmission
'07 STi stock 6mt
Beatrush mount
Kartboy pitchstop
Kartboy x-member bushings
Kartboy rear shifter bushing
Kartboy short shifter
Goodridge SS braided clutch line
DCCD Pro Spiider with DCCD cluster (V5/6 GC8) output. OEM thumb wheel and manual override switches
Comp twin disc


Suspension/Steering
Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers
13:1 ratio 15+ STi steering rack
00-05 MR2 PS pump, custom lines
Perrin rear subframe and diff lockdown kit
Hotchkis 25mm front and rear sway bars

Brakes
'07 STi OEM Brembos
Stoptech Street pads
Centric Premium High Carbon Brake Rotors front and rear
Stoptech SS lines
ABS delete, custom line routing in engine bay

Interior:
GC dash
'04 STi center console, hand brake, shifter trim (cut to fit)
V5/6 STi DCCD cluster reflashed to MPH and 0 miles (reflash by G-ROM)
Ortiz Custom Pods 2 pod gauge cluster bezel
AEM Wideband
Defi boost gauge

Exterior
Retrofitted Morimoto DS2 Mini III 4.0 projectors, 50w ballasts, 5500k bulbs, e46-r shrouds
Depo amber corners
JDM taillights
v5/6 STi grill


Wheels and tires
'07 STi BBS wheels
245/45R-17 M&H Racemaster

Merge
iWire harness merge
iWire GD DBW pedal adapter
iWire GD steering column to GD steering rack in a GC knuckle adapter

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Originally posted 10/17/16

This build thread will document the majority of the process of my 98/07 RSTi build.

Last August, I sold my beloved '07 STi to a fellow MNSubaru member. It was a tough decision, but I convinced myself the RSTi project is what I really wanted to pursue. We said our goodbyes...
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In came the '98 25.rs that I took as partial trade on my '07. The PO had already done a lot of the grunt work in tearing down the donor '07 STi as well as pulling the interior engine and drivetrain out of the RS...
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I need a bigger garage!
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Engine bay and interior how I inherited the car:
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I made quick work of pulling the remaining items out of the engine bay. @Cody Weatherly helped me pull the bulkhead harness out of the car and mount up the 6mt. I used a Beatrush 6mt mount and Kartboy xmember bushings.
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I don't have many pictures of the process, but I cut out the rusty battery box, and did some bondo work to make it look presentable.
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After:
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Engine bay sprayed:
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I pulled the front suspension, cleaned up the STi LCAs, replaced the ball joints and gave everything a good cleaning (damn you, OCD). I'll eventually blast and recoat the Brembos before they go back on. I put new inner and outer tie rods in the STi rack as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Originally posted 10/18/16

With as much stuff as I wanted powder coated, I decided to explore the option of getting my own gun and giving it a whirl. Using an Eastwood dual voltage gun and Desert Wrinkle Red powder from PrismaticPowders.com I got started. After a couple of test pieces, I was ready to give it a try on my shiny new IAG TGV deletes...they came out fantastic and I baked them in my oven lol
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I upgraded from my conventional oven to a Blue M lab oven. It's larger than a conventional oven, not by much, but better than using the oven I cook my food in
:p
. I deleted the "delay valve" that was on the bottom of the MC and also pulled the delay out of the slave. There are several threads with info on what they are on how to do it out there. I coated my brake MC, clutch master and prop valve just for the hell of it. They turned out great as well. I'm getting the hang of this powder coat thing.
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Invested in a budget sand blast cabinet. Also, this is my garage helper, Subie! He's a chocolate lab and will be 1 year old next week:
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Blue M 18x18x15 oven I used temporarily:
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Last week i upgrated to this Keen k-900 18x20x34 oven that I scored off of eBay for $25. Yes, twenty five dollars! ($130 to ship it, but still an absolute steal. These are $3800 brand new!)...eBay rookie seller
:D
Something larger would be nice, but this will do for now.
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Lots of parts coming in, here's a few pics...

Blouch 3.0 XTR
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ID1300's. Shout out to @Aluminati for the help with the injector adapters to get these to fit my IAG TGVs!
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Current project: Prepping the intake manifold for powder. I decided to port match it to my TGVs for the hell of it. I also wanted to clean up some of the unneeded mounts that are on it so I'm shaving it a bit as well. All the casting marks are ground out and the grounding points are shaved on the pass and driver side as well as a couple of other mounts. Should look pretty slick once it's coated.
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Next on the list is to get the gas tank and rear subframe and suspension sorted. I also need to run new brake lines in the bay, deleting ABS. As soon as I get my longblock, I'll likely get that mostly assembled, if anything, for some motivation over the winter. New longblock is on the way...more details on that when it comes in.

(Not so) short and sweet, but that's where I'm at! Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Originally posted 10/19/16

Intake manifold turned out nice.

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I also cut out TGV and purge control solenoid wires from the engine harness, shrink wrapped the individual wires, tucked them back into the loom and and then rewrapped the loom in fresh tape...because OCD.

EDIT: This was a mistake later on. Read on to find out why
:p

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Ported my GT Spec headers
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I put together a broke man's powder coating booth, utilizing a built in closet in my garage. It works better than it looks
;)

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Tested out the new booth and a new color (coolant x-over tube and AC/Alternator bracket)
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Longblock should be here (hopefully) tomorrow. The plan is to start assembly on that right away so I can clear some parts off the table and make some room in my garage! Running brake lines is also high on the priority list for this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Originally posted 10/28/16

Got my harnesses boxed up and ready to ship to iWire. I'll gladly pay someone for the harness merge to avoid this headache!

I need to source a GD fuel pump controller and harness before I can send it off...
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Current longblock details:
Ej25 case halves
Manley Platinum series pistons
Manley H-Tuff rods
ACL bearings
Nitride treated crank
rotating assembly blueprinted and balanced within 1/4 gram

mild ported B25 heads
GSC intake and exhaust valves
GSC stopper style intake and exhaust guides
GSC beehive valve springs
GSC Titanium retainers
GSC viton stem seals
*contemplating GSC S1 AVCS cams as well

Progress has been kinda slow lately. Still waiting to find out what to do for my shortblock...
  • Waiting on an STi fuel pump controller to show up before I can send my harness out for merging.
  • New inner and outer tie rods installed on the STi steering rack, that's ready to go in.
  • Pulled the STi struts out of the RS to sell them to make room for the Flatout coilovers
  • Sold my v4 JDM seats...found some mint 2.5rs leather seats w/ red stitching and coupe door cards for a great deal that I couldn't pass up. I'm not sure how I'll like the leather...worried about sliding around. The bolsters seem a bit better than the stock 2.5rs seats, but not as pronounced as STi seats. Will found out eventually!
Luxurious.
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Brake lines are halfway done. I'll be able to salvage a lot of the factory lines which will make things a whole lot easier going from the MC over to the prop valve.
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Valve covers powder coated
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Originally posted 11/14/16

Steering rack is in with fresh inners and outers. I also sent my wiring harness on its journey to iWire this afternoon for the harness merge.

Front brake lines are run in the engine bay (deleted ABS), but still need to finish fitting them to the front caliper lines in the fenderwells. (I changed up the routing of the lines on the driver's side compared to my previous post)
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For a change of scenery, I started retrofitting my headlights. They are Morimoto D2s mini 4.0 projectors with E46-r shrouds. These shrouds take a ton of work to get them to fit in this headlight! I think the extra effort will be worth it though.
Teaser:
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Some in progress pictures and finished pictures of the headlights...
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Very tempted to throw these on the wagon until my car is done.
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Install:
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/2/17

PROGRESS

Injectors came back from Injector Dynamics. I had to replace two that were out of compliance
:(
. Got them installed and the fuel rails bolted down.

Engine is mostly assembled...still waiting on cams (GSC S1's) before I can button it up.

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The turbo/inlet took a little persuasion to make it fit...
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Still need to wrap the header.
Put my solder skills, or lack thereof, to the test and spliced in an AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor
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Started thinking about fuel line routing. I'm leaning towards a parallel setup, but I'd like to put the FPR here. I'm not sure if I should be concerned with one return fuel line being 3" from one rail and about 15" from the other rail though. The feed lines will be equal going to the rail, that's no problem. In my own logic, lines being equal going to the rail would be more important than them being equal coming from the rail...I do not know if that logic is correct. Still contemplating parallel vs. series routing.
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I found a home for the PS reservoir.
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Everything was going fairly smoothly until it came time to install the AN fittings onto the steering rack...
A little too much Hulk.
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I hardly had an torque on the fitting which makes me thing the casting was cracked a little bit already. Cast aluminum in pretty much impossible to weld. ...sh!t happens, I'm in the market for a replacement rack.
:censored:


Tonight I got started on the rear of the car, pulling the rear subframe that was halfass bolted in basically just to make the car a roller when it was sold. I'm installing a Perrin rear subframe lockdown kit as the rear end goes back together.
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oh shiny
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After that's all cleaned up, I'll get the gas tank dropped and situated. I deleted the evap system so I'll need to figure out venting the tank and what hoses I need and don't need. Also have a Walbro 450 to drop in while the tank is out.

In other news, iWire will be starting on my harness this week. Once I get that I can throw it in and get some progress made on interior. Cams and a clutch kit are keeping me from dropping the motor in currently. Still waiting on the coilovers.....................

Still have a lot to sort out, but some progress is nice
:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/11/17

Tank is dropped and I'm working on wiring and evap routing/capping before it goes back in, new Walbro 450 pump installed. I deleted the stock fuel filter that the stock pump feeds directly into as there wasn't enough room to retain it with the 450. I'll run an inline Fuelab filter in the engine compartment.
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Battery box coated and mounted
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Exhaust manifold wrapped...what a PITA
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When I started putting the motor together, I still wasn't sure if I was sticking with the stock cams or going with something aftermarket...well I pulled the trigger on GSC S1 billet core cams.

Lots of measuring fun! I ended up needing 15 of 16 new buckets. This process would be a lot cheaper and easier to have the machine shop tip the valves to gain the clearance needed, but the motor is already basically together...really don't want to tear it back down. I guess that's what I get for lack of planning.
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A bit more organized...this spreadsheet made it a breeze:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pOlZEvONctiaqMDEZEiL0fg&output=xls
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Apparently a comfortable place to lay down.
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Merged harness should be here Monday!
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The new steering rack is plumbed with the new high pressure lines and I didn't break a fitting this time! Should have new buckets at the end of the week and hopefully have time to get the cams in and set the timing this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/15/17

I got the gas tank half ass in for now...waiting on a new rubber filler neck hose. Once I get that I should be able to get the rear subframe and drivetrain in completely. I did a ton of research to see what was necessary, wiring wise, in order to use the GD gas tank using the GD fuel sender/pump and subsender. I ended up using the GC tank harness I'll lose the STI rear diff temp output, but the GC isn't wired for it anyway so i'm not sure that it's possible to get working (using a v5/6 STI DCCD cluster so I'm not even sure if there is even a rear diff temp light in the cluster). Using the GC tank harness, there is one modification that is needed to the wiring. The STI fuel sender connector uses pin 2 as a ground wire whereas the GC uses pin 5 as the ground wire. On the GC chassis, pin 2 just terminates at the next harness connection in the chassis so you have to splice the pin 2 wire (red/yellow) into the pin 5 wire (black/yellow) to make the ground. Confusing, but fairly simple. Without doing this, you'll have no fuel level signal to your cluster.
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Rigged up a simple bracket for and FPR mount. Need to coat the bracket black still, but that should do the job.
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I got my new buckets installed and the heads buttoned up finally. I'm waiting on a LH inner timing cover before I can put the LH cam sprockets on and time the motor. It's the small things that delay progress as well as nickel and dime you at the same time!
:dead:

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My merged harness should be here tomorrow! While I'm waiting on other parts, I'll get the harness installed and start working on interior.


Originally posted 1/18/17

Gas tank is in after getting a new filler neck hose yesterday. Rear subframe is in with the Perrin lockdown kit installed. Rear diff is in with new Perrin diff mount and outrigger bushings.

My merged harness came back on Monday and I made quick work of getting it routed throughout the cabin. Heater core, blower motor/ac condenser, dash beam installed.

Pro tip: Make sure you install the vent that goes along the trans tunnel and under the driver/passenger seats that blows air to the rear seats before you put the dash beam in. I had to pull the dash beam back out again to put the vent piece in.
:banghead:

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Can we go for a ride yet???
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/21/17

A couple of months ago I was donated a great condition dash from @ZenBoy (thanks again!). Today I swapped the passenger airbag, center cubby thing, switches, etc from my not-so-great condition dash to the new one and got it installed in the car. The steering column had to come back out. It seems I was sent the wrong steering knuckle adapter from iWire (it's just about a 1/2" too long) so he shipped me a replacement yesterday.
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Layed the carpet in
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Just test fitting the center console. That looks like a more comfortable place to take a snooze than on top of the gas tank! (I don't know how he's not in every picture)...
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My DCCDPro came pre-wired with my merged harness from iWire. I found the controller box a home in front of the air bag module and routed the connectors to the cluster (DCCD output), power, and to the DCCD manual rocker, and thumb wheel switches that will be in the center console. DCCDPro recommends the G-sensor be mounted flat and glued down with a 2-part epoxy. I found a nice spot for the extra length of wire and the sensor under the air bag module and JB welded that sumbitch down!
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Originally posted 1/25/17

So turns out I wasn't sent the incorrect steering knuckle adapter...I'm just uneducated. For whatever reason, my GD steering column stem had been pulled out (lengthened) by about an inch. I had no idea these things telescope! (for crash purposes I suppose). Brian from iWire was kind enough to give me a call and work through it with me as he was stumped as well why the knuckle wasn't fitting properly. He had a couple of GD steering columns lying around and took some measurements and that's when we figured out that the column had been pulled out a bit. Sure enough, with a bit of effort, it telescopes right back in. Viola! Knuckle fits perfectly.

Now I'm trying to figure out what to do for steering wheel and functional airbag. I have the original GC air bag module and harness which is designed for a single stage detonation air bag. The 06/07 STi utilize dual stage charges in the driver side air bag, which means the main air bag harness from the control module is completely different as well as the roll connector (clockspring) connector for the airbag in the steering wheel.

After some research last night, it seems as though the 04/05 STi still uses the single stage charge which actually uses the same connector on the air bag harness. However, the connector from the clockspring to the airbag is slightly different than the stock RS one. Soooo....I need to source a 04/05 STi/WRX clockspring and an airbag from an 04/05 STi (single charge) and I should be set...I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Originally posted 1/29/17

I got my '04 clockspring/roll connector installed. This will work as I hoped. The original GC airbag harness will plug into the '04 clockspring because it's the single charge connector. I won't be needing the STi steering angle sensor since the DCCDPro doesn't use its inputs for anything, it would just stay disconnected otherwise.
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Rear of the car is ready for coilovers and brakes (and axles).
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Once I was able to get the steering column all plugged in I was able to get some power to the car! I was anxious to see what the HIDs looked like...only to find out I have one bad ballast it seems. I swapped it over to the other side and the problem followed. Hopefully they can send me a replacement this week. I was able to finally roll up the passenger side window that's been halfway down since I got the car. The driver side window actuator has one of the wires pulled out from the connector to the body harness so I'll have to do some soldering there. The moonroof works like butter!
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I got the brake and clutch pedals connected and the rest of the interior wires routed. Once I get my coilovers (finally...hopefully this week) I'll be able to get the rotors and calipers on and then get the brake system bled. I made a failed attempt at putting the '07 STi center console in. Because of the interior update in '05, it's not even close to matching up to the GC hvac/radio bezel. I'm going to give an '04 STi console a try. I know it will require a bit of trimming around the GC dash, but hoping I can make it look half decent.



Originally posted 2/3/17

Spent a few days this week trying to troubleshoot a couple of DCCD display lights out on my cluster. Initially, I thought there were a couple of bulbs burnt out. The DCCD bulbs are buried in the cluster under the board. The majority of the other bulbs are accessible from the back of the cluster without even cracking it open. After tearing into it, i was able to switch a couple of the DCCD bulbs around to realize all the bulbs were functional. Using the diagram below, I found there were two wires in the incorrect pins on the cluster plug. Green was in pin 4 (should have been 3) and red was in pin 12 (should have been 11). After repinning the cluster, everything seems to be working now. I made iWire aware of the issue and he's going to be updating his documentation - this is a new diagram to his knowledge. I'm just glad it's working!
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I have a replacement ballast coming from LightWerkz. Evidently there are two versions of the Morimoto XB55 ballasts...somehow I got one of each of the ballasts initially. Each version needs to be run with it's compatible igniter to function properly, so that's why I had one not working. Should get the replacement tomorrow.

Today I should receive my 04 STi center console, so I'll work on modifying that to fit tight to the GC dash. Hopefully I can make it look half decent.

I finally received my Flatout coilovers after a 4 month wait, but I've decided to go a different route...so those are up for sale if you're interested
:D




Originally posted 2/4/17

A few hours of cutting, fitting, cutting, swearing, fitting and I have the 04 console in. All that work for an extra cup holder!
:uhhuh:


One thing I'll note is that I had to swap the hand brake cable from the 07 over to the 04 handle. The 05-07 parking brake cables (which I have from an 07) coming from from the rear hubs are a bit shorter than the pre-05. The newer cable from the hand brake is about 1/2" longer. It was just enough. I had to adjust the cable all the way out for it to reach, but it'll work!

It's definitely far from perfect around the radio/hvac bezel, but I think it turned out pretty decent. One downfall is that I'll have to pull the shifter trim if I need to take the radio bezel out, but they pop off pretty easily anyway.
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Originally posted 2/13/17

I ended up pulling the trigger on a ClutchMasters FX400 "8 puck" sprung clutch kit. This option seemed like a nice balance between drivability and holding power. I read lots of great reviews of the clutch and it's about $300 cheaper than the South Bend. It should be here this week so the motor will likely be going in this weekend. This will be paired with a new OEM flywheel. Right now the engine bay is a bunch of loose wires until the motor is in.

I got the replacement HID ballast installed and the lights are working nicely. I'm second guessing my choice to go with 50w ballasts instead of 35w...these things are bright!

I have a new OEM 6mt short throw and linkage coming today. I'm convinced that the shifter stay that came with the car is bent and I was also missing some of the reverse lockout parts, so I ended up just ordering the whole assembly - shifter, stay, linkage/bushings, reverse lockout cable, and dust boot from Subaru.

I also ended up selling my Flatout coilovers after waiting 4+ months for them to show up. I'm going to just install stock struts with Tanabe lowering springs for now - budget friendly and will be good enough to at least get the car on the road.



Originally posted 2/13/17

My suspicions are confirmed.

Old on left, new on right
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I fought with this thing for hours before I determined it had to be bent somehow. I didn't have another one to compare it to and the bend wasn't so obvious when not laying next to a new one. The old shifter linkage has a Kartboy short shifter and Kartboy shifter stay bushing. I swapped the KB shifter stay bushing to the new assembly (the new stock bushing was like jello). I also installed a KB rear shifter stay bushing while I was in there. I might swap the KB short shifter in eventually. It's about an 1" shorter than the OEM short throw, but will probably just call it good for now.

Yay
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Originally posted 2/17/17
Either tonight or sometime this weekend the motor will be going in. Flywheel and clutch installed. The CM clutch looks pretty nice. I'm pretty pumped that they even include a Subaru OEM release bearing with the kit, PN 30502AA130

FX400 "8 puck" disc
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Soon...
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Originally posted 2/18/17
Motor is finally in
:D
This motor probably went in smoother than any other I've done, which isn't many, but especially considering going at it solo.
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I extended the alternator wiring so that I could tuck the wire under the intake manifold instead across the top of everything. I had to change the alternator plug on the harness anyway so extending the connector wires and the power wire wasn't a whole lot more work. My RS harness utilizes a 2 prong connector for the RS alternator, but I'm using a GD alternator which uses a 3 prong connector. Even though it's a 3 prong connector, it only uses 2 wires so changing the connector over was pretty straight forward.

Wire loomed everything that didn't already have it. Still some wiring to route/figure out. I'll also have to extend the power wire to the starter, but I don't have a starter quite yet...
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Lots more to do now that everything is pretty much where it should be. I was waiting on a lower center dash piece before going any further inside the car, but that came in this week too so I can go to town in interior now.

I went to put the driveshaft in and found it's got a pretty gnarly dent in it. I'll be on the hunt for a used replacement I guess. This is the only thing left to do under the car besides throwing the rear driveshafts and struts in. And swaybars. Probably other stuff.
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Also started mockup on the intake
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Originally posted 2/23/17
Over the last couple days I bled my clutch (feels great, close to stock feel), installed struts, rear driveshafts, and routed more wiring in the engine bay. I extended the wires going to the master cylinder sensor so I could route them neatly. Looks like I'll have to extend the ground wire going to the starter also. I'll need to move and modify the bracket that holds the main engine harness plug to the passenger side strut tower so that I can mount my EBCS to that bracket as well.

Once I got the rear suspension all bolted up I was curious how the car will sit so bolted a wheel on to take a look. I'm liking it.
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And Subie photo bombing and cheezin' for the camara
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Still on the hunt for a new front half driveshaft. The wheels need to come back off to bleed brakes, but still need to buy new pads first. Radiator is on the way, will need to figure out what fans to get. Also, where I mounted my power steering reservoir, the -10 AN hose is too short...so will need to order a longer one or move the reservoir...leaning toward just buying more hose. Need to decide if/how I want to hardwire my fuel pump before I can finish up the interior. 'Bout it for now.



Originally posted 2/27/17
HVAC, radio and gauges wired. Driver seat is just half bolted in because I was sick of kneeling on the floor. Both rear door cards and rear seat backrest are in (not pictured). I still need to make up my mind on hardwiring fuel pump before I can finish up interior. (I won't be using those 2.5rs floormats)
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I was able to hang the driver side front fender. Test fitting bumper and corner light. Fog lights aren't working...I think I'm missing a relay or something. I need to research further.
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Radiator and FMIC are on the way. I'll need to fit the FMIC piping and intake before I can button up the passenger side front fender. The need-to-buy list is getting much shorter...

She's got a dirty booty, but new tail lights.

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Originally posted 3/5/17
Friday night I fitted my IC core and piping. The kit is Hybrid Power HDi GT2 and is GC8 specific fitment. I read many good reviews of the CXRacing kit (eBay special) even though they do typically need some modifying to the piping to get everything to fit properly. I ended up going with the HDi kit anyway...I'm glad I did. I didn't have to modify one pipe to get it to fit. I could cut the cold side pipe down an inch near the timing cover to get it to sit a bit lower, but I think I'll leave as. It of course took a little cutting and grinding to the radiator support, but nothing serious.

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Everything was even packed very well and better than I expected.
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The Dom 3.0 is a little too chubby and the outlet is pointing right toward the throttle body connector. I realized this when I put the turbo on, but I was hoping I could still get a coupler on it and not have it be an issue. There was just too much interference.
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If only the throttle body electronics could be on top...
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Rotated the TB 90* and rerouted a couple of wires. I deleted the coolant going through the TB while I was at it. This really cleaned things up back there. The coolant line that goes from the crossover pipe to feed the TB reaches perfectly to the return nipple on the coolant crossover pipe, bypassing the TB altogether. I just put a vacuum cap on the coolant nipples on the TB to keep debris out.
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I wasn't a huge fan of the polished piping so I powder coated the piping wrinkle black and also coated my intake wrinkle red while I was at it to match the IM.
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I still need to get a IAT bung and more than likely a BOV flange welded to the cold side piping before I can coat it...also not looking forward to trimming my bumper :/
I got my main engine harness and EBCS sharing a cut down version of the original main harness bracket from the '07 donor.
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Wastegate and down pipe are installed and EBCS is plumbed with vac lines. I routed the return fuel line from the FPR to the factory hard line. I'm waiting on my fuel filter to show up before routing the feed line. Still need to get slim fans for the radiator and find some upper and lower rad hoses that will work. Replacement driveshaft should be here this week. Still need an AOS, crank pulley and some other misc, but getting close.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Originally posted 3/12/17
Weekend update: Driveshaft is in and cat back is installed. Last thing remaining under the car is swaybars and setting a "base" front alignment until I can get it to a shop.

Using the Q300 catback that I kept from my '07.
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It sits a bit too tight to the bumper so I'll have to get some longer hangers for the rearmost mounts.
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Fuelab filter mounted perfectly to the pitch stop mount. I'm still waiting on a couple of fittings before I can finish routing fuel lines.
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I'm using compression fittings to go from the braided line to the car's stock hard lines
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Began cutting the front bumper cover for FMIC clearance. Nerve wracking experience cutting up a perfectly good bumper...no turning back after the first cuts.
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Close to being finished with the bumper cover, but still needs some minor trimming. Test fitting with my v5/6 grill
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IAG AOS installed. Finding a good mount for it was the biggest challenge. I ended up sharing the bolt that is holding the proportioning valve. Right now I have the AOS at the highest setting...I'm hoping the hood will clear it! If I go too much lower with the mount, I'm afraid the drain line will be running uphill.
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I took my charge pipe to Sherburne Performance Technologies in Mankato to have my IAT bung and BOV flange welded on. Once I had it home, I blasted it and got it coated
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Originally posted 3/19/17
Nothing real exciting this past week...I wired my IAT sensor and buttoned up the fuel line plumbing. I need one hose clamp to go from the tank to the hard line before I can throw some gas in it and prime/check for leaks. Those hard line to AN compression fittings are pretty slick, I'm just hoping they don't leak.
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After much debate (you may have seen my other thread), I decided to just hard wire the fuel pump. I was kicking around the idea of going with an aftermarket fuel pump controller that would allow the pump to vary duty cycle instead of running 100% at all times, but it seemed quite common to just hardwire it and have no issues running the pump at 100% for long periods of time.

10ga fused wire from battery+ to relay
10ga wire from relay to pump (spliced in pre molex connector)
10ga chassis ground to pump (spliced in pre molex connector)
16ga chassis ground to relay
14ga switched 12v (originally sent power to the stock FPC) now triggers the relay

Pump runs 100% with key switched to ON. I found a video on Youtube yesterday where a guy was using a relay that would sense RPM so if you were to get in a wreck or something, the pump would kill if you engine kills. Upon key switched on, the pump will do a 3 sec prime (just like stock), and then will stay off until it senses RPM. Seemed pretty neat. Might look into swapping out my relay for one of those if I can figure out how I'd have to wire it.

I drilled a couple of small holes and ran the fuel pump positive and negative wires through a grommet, then spliced them into the stock wiring before the connector. There's only maybe 8" of 14ga wire between the connector and the pump, so there shouldn't really be any impact to voltage on such a short wire.
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Wires tucked nicely away, behind the rear seat.
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Found a nice home for the fuel pump relay behind the glovebox
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Interior is about 90%. I still need to get seat and seat belts in and some other minor wiring
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Power steering is finally ready for fluid. I was waiting on a new/longer 10AN pump feed hose.
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I still need upper and lower rad hoses, slim fans for radiator, upper coolant expansion tank, misc fluids before I can fire it for the first time. I also have a Killer B oil fill relocation tube on the way to allow me to adjust my IC piping like I need to. The transition of the charge pipe going to the throttle body is a bit off because the stock fill tube is stopping the piping from going where it needs to go. The relocated tube should alleviate that issue and will probably allow me to cut the piping down a few inches so it sits closer to the motor as well.



Originally posted 3/21/17
Since I have the oil fill relocation tube coming, I figured I may as well get the charge pipe to fit a bit better. I cut 2.5" off one pipe right in front of the timing cover. It's sitting much tighter to the intake manifold and aligns with with the throttle body perfectly now. I used a ghetto bead of JB weld on the tubing that I cut (I don't have a bead roller), but it will serve its purpose and keep the coupler in place.

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It's subtle, but the piping is sitting much happier now. You can really see how much tighter to the motor it is in the second picture when looking at the fuse box.

I also found a nice spot for my test mode switch...no more standing on my head to connect those green bastard connectors under the dash!
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Originally posted 3/22/17
Got a couple of small things done last night.

Killer B fill tube
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This is perfect, allowing my IC piping to sit right where the OEM fill tube used to be
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Moroso coolant expansion tank. Super nice piece, the welds are beautiful.
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But it's too shiny...
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Mounted and plumbed
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Now I need to figure something out for a coolant overflow tank. I do have plenty of room where the ABS used to sit.



Originally posted 3/26/17
Another fairly quiet weekend, but I got the front steering and suspension dialed in as best I could. It will be road worthy enough while breaking in the engine.

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I was curious what ride height was going to be like in the front. The tire is bottoming out on the inner fender liner.
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I'm pretty sure it's because I don't have a sway bar in the front yet. I started looking at the sway bars in my pile o' parts...I have a pair of stock front and rear STi (20mm I believe) bars and what I found to be a set of front and rear Hotchkis 25mm bars. Aside from them being a little rough looking, the Hotchkis bars are pretty beefy. The bushings will need replacing and I don't have front or rear mounts. I'm checking with Hotchkis to see if I can just get the bushings, mounts and brackets that would normally come in the set. I'll need to find some end links eventually.

Final trimming of the front bumper finished and the bumper is mounted. I need to source some fog light covers
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I wired up my rear speakers. Also fixed my driver side window regulator. I took all of the bolts out holding the regulator in and as I was pulling it out a felt a lot of tension release. I don't know how, but whoever put that regulator in had the wiring wrapped up in the window track so as the window would go down, it would just yank on those wires and bind everything up. I few small adjustments to the track and now it goes up and down without issue.

Break-in oil, gear oil, power steering fluid should all be here tomorrow. I need to pull the trigger on some slim fans for the radiator. Still need to order brake pads before I can bleed brakes too. I'm hoping to fire the engine for the first time next weekend, but I might have to wait another week to get fans.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Originally posted 3/30/17
Rad fans showed up yesterday so got those mounted and installed. SPAL model 3010152 (12" curved blade puller fans). They came with nice mounting brackets instead of using the cheap ones that go through the core.

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There's about a 1/2" clearance from the fan to the IC piping. In the words of Goldmember, "It's very toight"!
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A video of the car in test mode after I wired them up. Wiring was very straightforward. The stock RS fans are only two wires, power and ground. I'm going to run these fans without a shroud and see how they keep up. I think I'll be okay...they move a lot of air!
I'll be able to top her off with coolant and maybe make some noise tonight...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Originally posted 4/2/17
She lives! First startup went okay, had a small coolant leak out of a block plug (block heater) that I apparently didn't tighten. My goal was to break in the new cams by keeping idle around 2k, fluctuating +/- 500 rpm or so for about 20-30 mins. About 10 minutes in the coolant temp started creeping past half way on the gauge. Shut it down and investigated. Found I blew the 20a fuse for the main fan. Threw a new fuse in and fired it back up. A few minutes in it started leaking a significant amount of oil around the turbo area...the turbo drain tube was leaking.
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Had no choice but to pull the DP, EWG, UP, exhaust manifold and everything else in the way to pull the turbo. Royal PITA! The AOS near the turbo makes access to everything in that area difficult. A few hours later and I had it back together. The drain tube hose that I (reused) from the 07 was stretched out and had a couple small cracks in it. I should have caught this when putting it together, but my ideology was that it shouldn't really be under pressure as it basically drains via gravity...lesson learned.

Topped off coolant and oil, fired it up and continued cam break-in procedure. Same thing again, coolant temp was climbing and the 20a main fan fuse popped again. I couldn't understand why they work just fine with the ECU in test mode, but not while the car was running. I figured I'd try a 25a fuse before wiring them on a separate harness and that did the trick. That's a relief. I'm not sure what else is on that circuit, but those fans draw about 20a each. Hopefully that doesn't cause any issues...

Short video after everything was sorted out. No leaks, running well, sounds good. Don't mind the faint power steering pump whine...still need to bleed the PS system.
~1300 RPM idle for now

I still need to bleed brakes and install sway bars/end links before it's truly road worthy. I'm still anxious to see how it will sit in the front...a bit nervous about ride height.
 
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