got about 700 miles on the break in. did the first oil change. Pretty glittery, had to email the shop to make sure that was normal.
Been doing some work on her.
Took out the rear deck, the giant holes were looking ugly with no speakers.
Doesn't look the greatest, maybe a sand and paint will change my mind.
made a simple bracket for the extinguisher. i'm digging it. Pretty sturdy
went to upullit last week and picked up a few things
goodbye crusty shift knob
TRYING to make a rear "firewall" panel, but i'm not liking how its turning out.
i'm going to have to make another one, this will be a ruff draft.
Did the grounding "mod" my idle was super low and caused everything to vibrate like crazy. Added some ground points that lead back to the battery and now she idles like normal. The AF learning on the AP is more active i noticed after doing that.
*will be slicing and crimping longer wires to put the FPR into the trunk. I should of done that to begin with.
*got fluids for diff/trans flush and refill
*The hood is uneven when its closed. Driver side sticks up a good 3/4". Cannot figure out why, it didn't used to do this. Gonna take off the alternator cover and disconnect the hood struts.
HELP! the OEM RS upper radiator hose got a tear in it. got a replacement at oreillys. but it fits like crap and the PS line was making it kink pretty good.
got a good hydraulic hose to replace the PS hose.
and got a new OEM RS upper rad hose.
this is the new PS hose with oreillys RAD hose.
SOOOO got the coolant hose issue figured out. i just needed to turn it around and it got rid of the kink stupid
filled it with coolant, drove it 5 miles and all seems fine.
I need to put 300 miles and do an oil change before saturday morning for the tune!
i'm a little curious about the engine idle shaking. Hoppefully surgeline will be able to help mee with that, i wonder if the Group N motor mounts are somehow backwards?
The tune didnt go as planned. The line end check wasnt cooperating.
When he was telling me the problem they were saying there was no continuity from obd plug to ECU. On the RS its looped through the green test connectors.
The real problem was that there wasnt 12v on that wire. So everything I read online is that people jump a 12v wire to make the car able to flash.
It worked
Also did the rear diff and trans fluids.
Rear clunk went away and shifting feels better
also went by a picknpull and picked up some caliper brackets from a 01 legacy outback, "h6" rear brake upgrade.
next will get some rotors, and work on front brake parts.
The next phase for my car is a Aegean Blue 96 Impreza L Coupe. I have swapped shells over from my 95L getting ready for the carbon Aerosim kit(I couldn't bring myself to install the carbon kit on a salvaged title car).
Picture of the 1996 L coupe the day I bought it.
Current picture...
This is mostly the progress of my srp 2001 L coupe, but also some 98L and 2018 brz stuff.
Backstory:
I got the car in August 2011 with 100,500 miles. It was my first car, and it had lots of problems at the start. Almost sold it a few times, but once I read about all the swap stuff, I...
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So, this is my second RS. Not much else to say. All of the info from my first RS can be found here:
Equinox's Impreza 2.5 RS - Crashed - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
So. On with it.
This is my 1998 Impreza RS in Rally Blue Pearl. Look...
Hey guys sold the wagon, heres its journal http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t172054-ivonko-obs-gf8-wannabe-slow-build.htmlmade profit on it. so here is the gem i picked up,
2000 Subaru RS
ej251
150k miles
all stock
The game plan:
Black=need
Blue= Bought
Red=installed
EXTERIOR:
-v6 front lip...
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