4EAT Diff-Lock Switch and Handbrake Mod - "Torquemada Lite" - Page 8 - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
 
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4EAT Diff-Lock Switch and Handbrake Mod - "Torquemada Lite"
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Old 03-20-2009, 03:56 PM   #71
reddragons
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Car: 94 legacy turbo maroon
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^ ha thanks. i have quite a bit of experience digging around and finding wires and sodering and what not. i just wonder if the wire for my turbo 94 is the same color as na's. also where you described the box being mine looks all black instead of that metal color.
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:07 PM   #72
limited
 
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Alright! sounds good.

I took a couple of pictures of the TCU, and i noticed there were a few wires that seems to be missing between the Legacy and Impreza models. Although you can't see all the wires, but I can't seem to spot out the White/green wire. I'll confirm this by this weekend.








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Old 03-20-2009, 09:29 PM   #73
StartRestart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limited View Post
...I can't seem to spot out the White/green wire. I'll confirm this by this weekend....
unbolt it from the brake assembly, it should be on the reverse side of that bottom connector.

GL!
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:28 PM   #74
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I took a careful look today and found no White wire with green stripe. I'm not sure if Subaru change the wire color for the '98 Legacy.
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Old 03-21-2009, 05:58 PM   #75
defcon5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddragons View Post
i just wonder if the wire for my turbo 94 is the same color as na's.
Yes - it's very likely that the wire in any OEM turbo setup will be different. In fact, I recall it being different colored and possibly a different impedance (resistance).
My current setup, is aimed at the N/A cars, but I can do a little looking to see what the differences are. My main problem is that I can't get my hands on any turbo cars to confirm. If any one reading this is interested in doing one of the turbo cars, PM me and I can send you some of the documentation that I do have on the subject - that way I don't clutter up the thread with partial (possibly faulty) information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by limited View Post
I took a careful look today and found no White wire with green stripe. I'm not sure if Subaru change the wire color for the '98 Legacy.
Well now Fuji Heavy Industries is just messing with us! ..
I've got several years of the Legacy FSMs ready to download - I just need to reinstall my torrent client (bleh). Hopefully I can do that tonight, and I'll take a look at the wiring diagrams.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:01 PM   #76
dSpec
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I just did this mod today, but I haven't driven it yet.

The first thing I did was turn the car on, and I noticed that the AT Oil Temp light was blinking. I turned off my car, flipped the switch, and turned it back on. The oil temp light was gone.

Did I do something wrong? I'm about to take a quick drive around the block.
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:21 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dSpec View Post
I just did this mod today, but I haven't driven it yet.

The first thing I did was turn the car on, and I noticed that the AT Oil Temp light was blinking. I turned off my car, flipped the switch, and turned it back on. The oil temp light was gone.

Did I do something wrong? I'm about to take a quick drive around the block.
Hi dspec -the blinking AT light is just the TCM's way of complaining. You haven't broken anything, but it does sound like something's not quite right - let's see if we can get everything back on track
Assuming you tested and cut the proper wire, which I'm guessing you did - since the switch is obviously affecting something. My guess is that the TCM isn't happy with your resistor bank, or the wiring to the resistors. Here are some things to double-check:

1. Switch - SPDT or DPDT (ON/ON) - Make sure you didn't get an ON/OFF/ON switch. The center 'OFF' will freak out the TCM.
2. Continuity from the switch 'out' to the resistor bank's ground connection. You did ground the resistors, right?
2a. If the continuity check fails, start at the switch and check each 'section' until you find a break in continuity.
3. Resistor bank impedance (17Ω)

Basically it sounds like you've succeeded in cutting power to the solenoid (a test drive will tell you for certain) but the signal isn't being properly routed to the resistors - which is making the TCM unhappy.

Another possibility is that your car may have one of the other TCMs that Subaru had over the years. I just built a database of all the various permutations of the years and models that I could find. I'll check into that as well.
EDIT: If this is the car in your profile - your car should match the DIY just about 100%. According to my research anyway...
My guess is that you've got a bad connection somewhere.

Feel free to post some pictures of the setup and it's components, and I'm sure we'll get you all sorted out. Also feel free to PM or email me if you'd rather.

Last edited by defcon5; 03-23-2009 at 10:12 AM..
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:51 AM   #78
dSpec
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Thanks! I'll check into it.

I do have one thing for sure, and that is the resistor bank impedance. It is definitely around 17. I took numerous readings and they were all around 17.1-17.2 ohms.

My switch seems correct. It is the same one that you had pictured, except DPDT. I just used one side of the switch.

I will try to check the ground connection today. I have the ground attached to my intake manifold. I also have to note that I use the same ground for my grounding kit. Would this be affecting it?
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:25 AM   #79
defcon5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dSpec View Post
Thanks! I'll check into it.

I do have one thing for sure, and that is the resistor bank impedance. It is definitely around 17. I took numerous readings and they were all around 17.1-17.2 ohms.

My switch seems correct. It is the same one that you had pictured, except DPDT. I just used one side of the switch.

I will try to check the ground connection today. I have the ground attached to my intake manifold. I also have to note that I use the same ground for my grounding kit. Would this be affecting it?
Good man!! Those are fine numbers. My switch is actually DPDT too - a little clever photography hid the other pins

I'm guessing that your ground is the issue and your continuity test will tell you for sure - the intake is subjected to a fair amount of potentially corrosive road grime, and unless it's painted or cleared, the aluminum will develop a layer of surface oxidation that could prevent a good connection. Otherwise it should be a fine ground - especially if the grounding kits recommend it.
That said, I grounded to the factory grounds located to the rear of the driver's front strut tower. It was tidier looking, and required less wire.
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:41 PM   #80
Area1320
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We recently did this mod to a customers Forester. The issue we are having is when the switch is off, the front tires are seeing a lot of wheel spin. With the wires resorted back to stock its fine. With the switch on, its fine.. Any ideas?
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