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Boosting 1990-2002 USDM Subarus: A Chronological Guide
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:11 PM   #91
Andrew6571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprezaRSC View Post



B.) An RRFPR is your friend!

Any rrfpr? any particular brands models?



#2) Charge temp reduction is your best friend outside of fuel quality. Most of you are still on unleaded gas. Charge temp reduction is probably weapon #1. Intercooling is a requirement, not an option. On alcohol fuel it's a different story, but for the rest of you petrolheads it's a requirement. Get a good quality intercooler!

What exactly is this? is this something that you install into the car or what?

#3) Cold plugs and a slightly tighter gap. Removing more of that heat in the combustion chamber is a good thing. Colder plugs also help top end performance. Charge cooling, low boost, and a happy compressor lets you run lots of timing SAFELY on pump gas. Colder plugs remove heat from the combustion chamber and transfer it to the cooling system. You will notice your heater running a lot warmer when in use. Cold plugs may also be a little grumpy below freezing but just until it warms up. Just dropping one heat range can reduce combustion chamber temps that much.

cold plugs? what is this?

#5) Sorting electronics can be a pain, but then again you should see a Honda swap. Where do you go with all of the options and model changes? Sometimes, the answer is nowhere. Older cars are one of the vehicles you can do that with AND get away with it! Keep the MAF in front of the compressor and everything else falls into place. Fuelling is handled mechanically and timing is left alone. Don't run a stupid boost setting and you'll drive happily. Most new WRX owners jump too quickly into the electronics. There's actually a heck of a lot of flexibility in there already, even on OBD0! 300hp on a stock ECU is a no brainer IF you know the mechanical side of things that supports it.


What all exactly is really tied into this? what sort of wiring really needs to be done?


2.2--single port.

More worth the effort to turbo than you might think. Just remember the above listed rules with low boost and proper tuning. $1500ish can do a lot and complete the entire system. The electronics are just as basic as the 1.8. 180whp is not out of the question. 12psi is workable because of the lower stock compression

Not necessary to put on 25 heads onto a 22 short block to run lower compression?



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Old 12-13-2013, 01:02 AM   #92
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:58 PM   #93
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Those are easier to read when you highlight your own questions .

1.) Paxton RRFPR.
2.) Intercooling or running less boost is how you reduce the charge temperature. Turbos and blowers both make heat. Cooling off the boost is a good thing.
3.)Colder Spark Plugs
4.)Wiring in a boost controller, timing controller, and fuel controller is not always needed. The cars can run purely with mechanical adjustments.
5.) 2.5L heads on a 2.2 block lowers the compression too much.
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:57 AM   #94
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Good read!

I'm going to be putting 2.5L heads on a 2.2 block I've heard like 5 different numbers about the CR to dropping to low to hardly dropping much at all..

Funny thing if you go the other way around with a 2.5L block and 2.2L heads you need higher octane because of the compression ratio.

long story short I can deal with the driveability issues until the total build is done.
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Old 12-14-2013, 04:30 PM   #95
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It all depends on which ej25 head and which ej22 shortblock you use, there are 4 different piston styles that could be in there depending on year range, there are also 3 different combustion chamber sizes for the most common ej25 heads.
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Old 12-14-2013, 04:43 PM   #96
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It all depends on which ej25 head and which ej22 shortblock you use, there are 4 different piston styles that could be in there depending on year range, there are also 3 different combustion chamber sizes for the most common ej25 heads.
I figured you would say that the heads are from a '97 Ej25 outback and the block is from a '95 legacy
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:33 PM   #97
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Thank you for the information provided.
I wanted to clarify for themselves. Plan to install a turbo on the new engine ej253. Is it possible to secure continuous service with the boost 5psi (no change in the motor, with a compression ratio 10:1 )?
Course will be properly configured (AEM EMS4). Main question withstand the stock engine parts and the resistance to detonation. Turbo td04 (WRX).

PS. I want to get at least half-rate, as described here. AVO Turboworld LLC : 2.5i Turbokit [S2108K07A001T] - $3,200.00

Thanks in advance.
If youre going with 5 PSI you should be ok. I dont think anyone can "garuentee" you will be ok with a NA motor on boost but this is a fairly accepted boost level to start with. Ask me 12 months from now but Im confident 5 psi will be ok for reliability.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:03 PM   #98
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just picked up a blue '00 2.5rs with about the exact same setup on it and trying to get it to run right. my buddy i got the car from moved and didnt have enough time to get it running right to move it with him. trying to piece all the stuff together and get it running right. answer to your questions would also help me.

Also awesome right up here a lot of good info in here. my main problem is tuning atm and understanding. i guess you can say i come from the computer age when it goes to that. seem like i keep making things too complicated but i wanna make sure i get everything right. in other news the kit is on and car runs but needs some tweaking and i think he put n/a cams in it which im debating on whether or not i need to take them out and if it is worth it to have a set sent out to be ground for turbo instead. think he said the ecu that is in the car was also tuned for the cams from cobb. so not sure what the map looks like and if i wanna attempt to use it with the turbo. im thinking im going to pull the cams and swap the "other" aka stock ecu back in.
Subscribed.

Also curious if you ever got your car tuned properly? Just trying to get an idea of what kind of tuning issues I'm going to run into. Got nearly all of my parts now...
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:15 AM   #99
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Question: you said never pressurize your emission lines? I recently turbo charged my 2000 rs and everything went well after I drove it around except a puddle of oil was in my intake filter coming from the turbo. I left the breather hoses coming from the valve covers just hanging in the engine bay so they weren't seeing vaccum, could this be why I got oil spitting out of the inlet of the turbo or are the seals on the turbo no good? Also my boost gauge wasn't reading any boost and everything's hooked up properly but There sure is boost! Thanks for your help Its really appreciated!
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:11 PM   #100
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Question: you said never pressurize your emission lines? I recently turbo charged my 2000 rs and everything went well after I drove it around except a puddle of oil was in my intake filter coming from the turbo. I left the breather hoses coming from the valve covers just hanging in the engine bay so they weren't seeing vaccum, could this be why I got oil spitting out of the inlet of the turbo or are the seals on the turbo no good? Also my boost gauge wasn't reading any boost and everything's hooked up properly but There sure is boost! Thanks for your help Its really appreciated!
Do you have an oil pressure gauge and if so how much pressure are you showing? What turbo are you running? Two things could be wrong there.
The turbos seals could be gone yep. Or the slim chance you're running too much pressure for whatever turbo you're using and it's blowing by the seals. You also never mentioned your Crankcase vent. Where is it going??
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