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Stew's 98RS

144K views 718 replies 81 participants last post by  Combat Chuck 
#1 · (Edited)
The time has finally come for me to organize a members journal! Ive been a member here since I purchased my 98 2.5RS in late December of 2005. My car, not unlike myself, has been through a lot since then and made many changes. And now, upon organizing parts and information for my swap, I though I should get the cars history laid out so I can properly journal its future :D

Current Photos:










Current Mod List 3/13/2023

Engine / Exhaust / Fuel System

Version 9 EJ207
Injector Dynamics 1050X Injectors
IAG Competition series oil pan / baffle / pickup
IAG polyurethane engine mounts
KSTech DBW throttle adapter
2007 2.5i DBW Throttle Body
Roger Clark Motorsports Downpipe
Roger Clark Motorsports Group N turbo-inlet
Roger Clark Motorsports Alloy Cam Gears (Exhaust Side)
IAG V3 competition AOS
HKS Kevlar timing belt
Roger Clark Motorsports timing belt guide
PTP Turbo Blanket
Grimmspeed Turbo Heat Shield
ETS Top Mount Intercooler
Samco intercooler elbow
Tial Q BOV w/Torque Solutions Adapter
Forge BOV
Aluminati Expansion Tank
CSF Oil Cooler (#8119)
RCM Black Series Oil Sandwich Plate
CSF Aluminum Radiator
Spal 12" fan
Samco radiator hoses
iWire radiator shroud
Cobb overflow bottle w/iWire bracket
K&N Filter w/ 3" Vibrant velocity stack & custom inlet adapter
Fuelab low-pressure lift pump
Radium Venturi transfer pump
Radium Surge Tank w/Walbro 255
Radium In-line fuel filter
Continental Flex Fuel Sensor



Drivetrain
Kotouc (KAPS) R4 Sequential Transmission (P2 ratios 3.33 / 2.38 / 1.80 / 1.37 / 1.06 / 0.84 )
Version 9 Sti 6MT transmission TY856WB8KA
Version 9 R180 rear diff
ACT StreetLite flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 Organic HD Clutch
OEM Exedy Clutch
Goodrich Stainless Braided Clutch Line
Torque solutions transmissions mount (poly)
Torque solutions solid carrier bearing bushings (Aluminum)
Kartboy transmission crossmember bushings
Whiteline front and rear shifter bushings
Torque solutions solid shifter u-joint
Whiteline rear diff bushings (rear crossmember)
Whiteline T-frame bushings
IAG Competition pitch stop


Suspension / Steering
V9 STI 5x114 hubs
V9 STi subframes (front/rear)
V9 STi sway bars (front / rear)
Feal 441+ Coilovers w/Swift springs (10k/8k) (9k/8k)
Swift Helper Springs
Professional Awesome 777 Bumpstops
JDM GC8 STi Aluminum control arms
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline roll center kit
Whiteline control arm bushings
Whiteline lateral link bushings
Whiteline trailing arm bushings
Whiteline rear endlinks
Whitleine rear sway-bar mounts
Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear sway bar
Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway bar
SwayAway front endlinks (for 2015 STi)
2015 STi Steering Rack
L&E Rack steering shaft adapter
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Chasebays power steering reservoir
Mooresport power steering pump adapter
IAG -6an PS high pressure line, custom -6an return line, custom -8an suction line


Brakes
C6 Z06 Corvette 6 piston front calipers w/12.8" STI Rotors
STi Brembo rear calipers
Stoptech Stainless Braided Brake Lines
G-LOC R12 / R10 Brake pads
Centric blank front rotors
Brembo blank rear rotors
CompBrake brake servo
Nameless performance 18" Hydro Handbrake

Wheels/Tires
Enkei PF05 17x8.5 +48
WedsSport TC105X 17x8.5 +43
Falken Azenis RT660 235/40/17
ARP Extended wheel studs

Interior / Safety
Sparco Sprint seat on custom fabricated mounts
Sparco steering wheel
Snap-off R1000 quick release
Custom roll cage built to SCCA GCR specs (1.5"x0.120" DOM)
Schroth Profi 3x2 FIA Harnesses
Renscott Harness Collars
6OC lightweight door panels
181stleader Carbon fuel tank access covers
Custom central switch panel
6OC Drivers floor plate
iWire DBW pedal adaptor
Flocked Dash
Rennline/Rennscot fire extinguisher mount w/Maxout 2.5lb extinguisher


Exterior
Aerosim Research carbon fiber race roof
V6 / RS front bumper w/Fog light covers
JDM Smooth rear bumper
JDM Lightweight bumper beams
JDM Rear spats
JDM Taillights
JDM Clear Corner Lights
Clear side markers
L'aunsport S5 WRC style Rear wing
Bakemono 22B Hood Vents
Bakemono Carbon S201 Mirrors
Shaved side moldings
Shaved trunk
Custom Pearl Blue paint
30% Ceramic window tint
RPG Carbon WRC Mirrors
RPG Carbon Exhaust Shroud
V5/6 Replica front lip

Electronics
Haltech Nexus R5 VCU
Haltech PD16 Power Distribution Module
Haltech 15 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech 8 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech TCA-8 CAN Thermocouple Module w/Prospeed connector brace
Haltech CAN Hub
Haltech TMS-4
ECU Master Dual H-Bridge module
Plex SDM700 Digital Dash Logger
Custom motorsport wire harness
MAPDCCD Center Diff controller
MSEL Solid state battery isolator
Odyssey PC680 Battery
2006+ WRX DBW Pedal / Throttle Body
KA NTC2 Fast motorsports IAT sensor (Intake Manifold)
RIFE IAT charge cooler temp sensor (Intercooler)
Lowdoller Motorsports oil pressure sensor
Lowdoller Motorsport oil temp sensor
Delphi Flex Fuel Sensor w/Raceart Mount
MAC 3port EBCS w/Raceart Mount
AIM Sport 2k PSI brake pressure sensors
Hella Sharptones Horn




Introduction
My name is Steven and this is my long-standing journal documenting the path of my 1998 2.5RS from purchase, daily driving, to now many years later restoration and transition into a dedicated track car. The most recent phase of this project has taken me roughly 6 years. 5 years, but I'm getting close to having a complete car, with the goal for a running driving car later this summer (2021). I'm at the point now where the car is so nearly road-worthy. I'm making a big push, and the goal now is to have it track ready by July 2022. I've now been using and enjoying the car from the summer of 2022. A project like this is never "complete" but its in some version of done. I'll continue to update this as it continues to evolve.

Original Intro from 2005
Heres my Introduction and story for how I got my car:
My name is Steven Stewart and I'm from lower West Michigan. When I was a freshman in college I was in the market for a new car after crashing my first car, a 95 Nissan Altima, into a telephone pole in the snow. Im not exactly sure what sparked my interest in Subarus but It was pretty quickly that I decided I wanted an impreza.

I browsed Ebay, autotrader, craigs list, news papers and such for a couple weeks looking for a new car. One session on ebay, I clicked on a link for this wrecked blue 98 coupe but just glanced at it and moved on. Later, I returned to that link and realized it was about 40min from my house! So the next day I went and looked at it, drove it around the parking lot (it was salvaged title, thats all I could do :( ) and immediately fell in love. They wanted $5500 for it off the lot and that was way too much so I decided to bid on it on Ebay. I Lost the auction to a sniper and it went for $3600 :( I was pretty sad I didnt get it. Anyways, two days later i found it listed again on Ebay! I called them right away, offered $3600 cash and picked it up the next day!

12-21-2005 Purchase!
Heres two pictures the dealer used on the ebay auction




And here she is at the body shop I worked at the day I brought it home




After this, I began the process of rebuilding my new purchase.
 

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#210 ·
Just caught up on the whole thread. Awesome progress.

My dad is in temperance so i know how cold it can get haha. I picked up one of these for my garage.

Amazon.com: Dyna Glo Delux KFA80DGD Kerosene Forced Air Heater, 80K BTU: Home & Kitchen

Game changer.
Thanks man!

After having installed a hanging natural gas heater in my old garage, I don't think I could have it any other way. It's one of my main goals for this summer is to get heat into the new garage.
 
#211 ·
Got a bunch done this weekend, both in the garage and on the car.

Originally I was going to do the rest of the floor in 2 more pieces but I decided to just try it in one. Either way, I cut this all out.


I kinda think I bit off more than I could chew here. The shape of the floor towards the rear gets pretty complicated. I just don't have the tools to make the complicated shape, especially with the area around the plug. So, I cheated it and flattened it and makes it flat and square.


Threw some primer on it. I'll go back and grind the welds down and re primer before seam sealing.

I'm not super pleased with it. It does the job I guess. And as this point I might still put carpet back in. Either way, with seat mounts and a seat mount in it will be mostly hidden. And it's at least solid.

I also picked up an EJ22T from a friend. It's one of 2 we got from another friend for free. It's rough but hopefully the block is useable! It's a longer term project. Parked it next to my 20G.


Also got some more junk out of the garage and did a bunch of organizing, put some shelves up. Really coming together.




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#214 ·
It's tacked, the rocker side is rosettes. I'm going to go back and stitch weld it all up and then use a 2k seam sealer around the edges on both sides. Bottom side...I'm undecided on finish for the bottom of the car.
 
#215 · (Edited)
Drained and dropped the diff and driveshaft. I also started to drop the rear crossmember. I was able to crack all 4 bolts loose without any breaking off or breaking the nut. Thank Zeus, I was really worried about them!


Drained and dropped the trans. First time this thing has ever left the car. Tucked it away next to the 22T



I also got the rest of my lights wired up in the garage this weekend. Need some more bulbs...


Also, I picked up a couple tools at auction this past week. Only picked one up so far...situated in its new home



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#217 ·
I did yeah, and it was expensive. If I remember correctly it was basically the entire floor and part of the trans tunnel and it was something like $500+. For something pretty utilitarian, and hidden under seats, I didn't feel it was worth the cost.


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#219 ·
My other auction acquisition. Gonna feed this some DOM soonish, hopefully. It's dirty but it's fully functional!
Loaded it in the old forester...




Also, a friend of mine is a photographer by trade and is always shooting while we're hanging out and wrenching. He snapped this of me welding my floors and I love it. Thought I'd share!



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#221 ·
Thanks Garrett! I haven't been able to devote nearly enough time to the car as I'd like. Still doing many house things and other projects.

I'm thinking about building a Rolltisserie or a rotisserie. Something simple but enough that I can thoroughly clean this shell. I'm this far in...seems like a "why not" at this point.


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#222 ·
Easy built. Find 2 used engine stands on CL, chop, extend higher. Then grab a set of used crash beams, weld to motor stand plates. May want to extend slightly to space the car away from the plate a bit.


Bolt beams onto shell like they should be, lift shell, slide stands in, rotate and pin where wanted. Cheap.

Change the rear castors to swivel if fixed to move around more.
 
#223 ·
Today was a bad day.

3 of 4 axles are seized in the hubs.

I got the front suspension down but not before breaking off a rear a-arm mount bolt in the chassis.


Then, 3 of 3 captured nuts on the drivers side trailing arm mount broke. So I cut an access hole, cleaned up the nuts and sheet metal with a wire wheel then blasted it out with lacquer thinner because I'm out of brake clean. Gave it a good 5 min thinking it would be dry so then I start to weld the first nut.


Aaaaaaaand my cars on fire. Not like, "oh I was welding and some paint or undercoating caught fire" fire...but full on "that lacquer thinner wasn't dry" fire and now your car has 6" flames coming out of it.

So I run inside, get a fire extinguisher from the kitchen, get back to the car and...extinguisher is dead. Nothing. Flames are getting larger.

Run back inside and get a bowl of water and finally put the flames out.

Woof.


I'm at my breaking point with this thing. I should have found another shell.



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#235 ·
....the week before I do a rear subframe on a rusty car.
Resorted to this for the rear crossmember......This times 4.....
Well ****. Not giving me much hope for my subframe bolts. :lol:

For a new mount, what about something like the front crossmember has? 2 studs welded to a strip of metal and dropped in from up top. Not sure if that would work.

This thing....but make one out of something like 1/8" steel strip, and some long bolts.







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#227 ·
I thought they might break too. Except the passenger side they came out like no problem. Same with almost every other bolt on the car. I'm trying to think up a way to improve the mounting system now.
 
#231 ·
Resorted to this for the rear crossmember.



This times 4...


And one sacrificed trailing arm later...


I've got a plan to create a new, improved mounting system that can be integrated a cage or structural member inside the car. More on that later.




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#239 ·
Still waiting on materials to fix the subframe mounts.

Got started on the A pillar rust repair. I have these leftover pieces from both quarter panels that have a similar shape as the a-pillar. So my plan was to section a piece out and use it to patch what I could.


First I ground down and welded up the antenna holes. Turns out I wouldn't have needed to do the lower one as my patch ended up covering it.



Cut out the rot...


Test fitting...


Aaaand mostly welded in.


Need to finish welding, grind and bondo, hopefully tonight.



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#240 ·
Got my drill bushing in the mail so I decided to work on the rear subframe mounting fix. Tubing came in last week. Just need the threaded tube inserts and I can wrap it up.

Here's the drill bushing itself. It's a 1/2" OD and 1/4" ID with a stepped head.



And how it fits into the old bolt holes...



Insert drill, many seconds, lots of smoke and chips later...


Cut some tubes on the new bandsaw...


Insert into hole...




As of now I'm thinking I'll notch a tube to go between each post and then brace that to the strut towers, so that's why I have them protruding about 1.5" from the floor.


The drill bushing made it really easy to get through the first layer nice and square, however the next two layers were a bit difficult to get strait. Really, I only screwed up one on the pass side. I can straighten it out but the hole on top will be ugly.


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