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Stew's 98RS

144K views 718 replies 81 participants last post by  Combat Chuck 
#1 · (Edited)
The time has finally come for me to organize a members journal! Ive been a member here since I purchased my 98 2.5RS in late December of 2005. My car, not unlike myself, has been through a lot since then and made many changes. And now, upon organizing parts and information for my swap, I though I should get the cars history laid out so I can properly journal its future :D

Current Photos:










Current Mod List 3/13/2023

Engine / Exhaust / Fuel System

Version 9 EJ207
Injector Dynamics 1050X Injectors
IAG Competition series oil pan / baffle / pickup
IAG polyurethane engine mounts
KSTech DBW throttle adapter
2007 2.5i DBW Throttle Body
Roger Clark Motorsports Downpipe
Roger Clark Motorsports Group N turbo-inlet
Roger Clark Motorsports Alloy Cam Gears (Exhaust Side)
IAG V3 competition AOS
HKS Kevlar timing belt
Roger Clark Motorsports timing belt guide
PTP Turbo Blanket
Grimmspeed Turbo Heat Shield
ETS Top Mount Intercooler
Samco intercooler elbow
Tial Q BOV w/Torque Solutions Adapter
Forge BOV
Aluminati Expansion Tank
CSF Oil Cooler (#8119)
RCM Black Series Oil Sandwich Plate
CSF Aluminum Radiator
Spal 12" fan
Samco radiator hoses
iWire radiator shroud
Cobb overflow bottle w/iWire bracket
K&N Filter w/ 3" Vibrant velocity stack & custom inlet adapter
Fuelab low-pressure lift pump
Radium Venturi transfer pump
Radium Surge Tank w/Walbro 255
Radium In-line fuel filter
Continental Flex Fuel Sensor



Drivetrain
Kotouc (KAPS) R4 Sequential Transmission (P2 ratios 3.33 / 2.38 / 1.80 / 1.37 / 1.06 / 0.84 )
Version 9 Sti 6MT transmission TY856WB8KA
Version 9 R180 rear diff
ACT StreetLite flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 Organic HD Clutch
OEM Exedy Clutch
Goodrich Stainless Braided Clutch Line
Torque solutions transmissions mount (poly)
Torque solutions solid carrier bearing bushings (Aluminum)
Kartboy transmission crossmember bushings
Whiteline front and rear shifter bushings
Torque solutions solid shifter u-joint
Whiteline rear diff bushings (rear crossmember)
Whiteline T-frame bushings
IAG Competition pitch stop


Suspension / Steering
V9 STI 5x114 hubs
V9 STi subframes (front/rear)
V9 STi sway bars (front / rear)
Feal 441+ Coilovers w/Swift springs (10k/8k) (9k/8k)
Swift Helper Springs
Professional Awesome 777 Bumpstops
JDM GC8 STi Aluminum control arms
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline roll center kit
Whiteline control arm bushings
Whiteline lateral link bushings
Whiteline trailing arm bushings
Whiteline rear endlinks
Whitleine rear sway-bar mounts
Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear sway bar
Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway bar
SwayAway front endlinks (for 2015 STi)
2015 STi Steering Rack
L&E Rack steering shaft adapter
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Chasebays power steering reservoir
Mooresport power steering pump adapter
IAG -6an PS high pressure line, custom -6an return line, custom -8an suction line


Brakes
C6 Z06 Corvette 6 piston front calipers w/12.8" STI Rotors
STi Brembo rear calipers
Stoptech Stainless Braided Brake Lines
G-LOC R12 / R10 Brake pads
Centric blank front rotors
Brembo blank rear rotors
CompBrake brake servo
Nameless performance 18" Hydro Handbrake

Wheels/Tires
Enkei PF05 17x8.5 +48
WedsSport TC105X 17x8.5 +43
Falken Azenis RT660 235/40/17
ARP Extended wheel studs

Interior / Safety
Sparco Sprint seat on custom fabricated mounts
Sparco steering wheel
Snap-off R1000 quick release
Custom roll cage built to SCCA GCR specs (1.5"x0.120" DOM)
Schroth Profi 3x2 FIA Harnesses
Renscott Harness Collars
6OC lightweight door panels
181stleader Carbon fuel tank access covers
Custom central switch panel
6OC Drivers floor plate
iWire DBW pedal adaptor
Flocked Dash
Rennline/Rennscot fire extinguisher mount w/Maxout 2.5lb extinguisher


Exterior
Aerosim Research carbon fiber race roof
V6 / RS front bumper w/Fog light covers
JDM Smooth rear bumper
JDM Lightweight bumper beams
JDM Rear spats
JDM Taillights
JDM Clear Corner Lights
Clear side markers
L'aunsport S5 WRC style Rear wing
Bakemono 22B Hood Vents
Bakemono Carbon S201 Mirrors
Shaved side moldings
Shaved trunk
Custom Pearl Blue paint
30% Ceramic window tint
RPG Carbon WRC Mirrors
RPG Carbon Exhaust Shroud
V5/6 Replica front lip

Electronics
Haltech Nexus R5 VCU
Haltech PD16 Power Distribution Module
Haltech 15 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech 8 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech TCA-8 CAN Thermocouple Module w/Prospeed connector brace
Haltech CAN Hub
Haltech TMS-4
ECU Master Dual H-Bridge module
Plex SDM700 Digital Dash Logger
Custom motorsport wire harness
MAPDCCD Center Diff controller
MSEL Solid state battery isolator
Odyssey PC680 Battery
2006+ WRX DBW Pedal / Throttle Body
KA NTC2 Fast motorsports IAT sensor (Intake Manifold)
RIFE IAT charge cooler temp sensor (Intercooler)
Lowdoller Motorsports oil pressure sensor
Lowdoller Motorsport oil temp sensor
Delphi Flex Fuel Sensor w/Raceart Mount
MAC 3port EBCS w/Raceart Mount
AIM Sport 2k PSI brake pressure sensors
Hella Sharptones Horn




Introduction
My name is Steven and this is my long-standing journal documenting the path of my 1998 2.5RS from purchase, daily driving, to now many years later restoration and transition into a dedicated track car. The most recent phase of this project has taken me roughly 6 years. 5 years, but I'm getting close to having a complete car, with the goal for a running driving car later this summer (2021). I'm at the point now where the car is so nearly road-worthy. I'm making a big push, and the goal now is to have it track ready by July 2022. I've now been using and enjoying the car from the summer of 2022. A project like this is never "complete" but its in some version of done. I'll continue to update this as it continues to evolve.

Original Intro from 2005
Heres my Introduction and story for how I got my car:
My name is Steven Stewart and I'm from lower West Michigan. When I was a freshman in college I was in the market for a new car after crashing my first car, a 95 Nissan Altima, into a telephone pole in the snow. Im not exactly sure what sparked my interest in Subarus but It was pretty quickly that I decided I wanted an impreza.

I browsed Ebay, autotrader, craigs list, news papers and such for a couple weeks looking for a new car. One session on ebay, I clicked on a link for this wrecked blue 98 coupe but just glanced at it and moved on. Later, I returned to that link and realized it was about 40min from my house! So the next day I went and looked at it, drove it around the parking lot (it was salvaged title, thats all I could do :( ) and immediately fell in love. They wanted $5500 for it off the lot and that was way too much so I decided to bid on it on Ebay. I Lost the auction to a sniper and it went for $3600 :( I was pretty sad I didnt get it. Anyways, two days later i found it listed again on Ebay! I called them right away, offered $3600 cash and picked it up the next day!

12-21-2005 Purchase!
Heres two pictures the dealer used on the ebay auction




And here she is at the body shop I worked at the day I brought it home




After this, I began the process of rebuilding my new purchase.
 

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10
#63 ·
Apexi Power Intake Installed:





Install was quick, took like 25-30 min. So far the only differences noticed are a LOT more noise. Compressor noise is beautiful, lots of recirculation noise. Also, there is a noticeable difference in response. It also over-boosts much more now. I pegged it at 15 PSI a few times today. Normal peak boost is 11-12 PSI.


I've been thinking more about future powertrain options. Vipec ECU and a tune on stock turbo? VF39? 20G and E85?

I'm actually currently under contract on a house, so its possible the RS will have a GARAGE to call home! In that case, the body items I've been dying to fix will move up the list as well.

All in good time...

:banana:
 
#64 ·
Ooph...Sometimes this damn car takes me to my wits end.

So, this last weekend, was driving to a friends on Saturday and the car goes into limp mode. Checked the codes (black connectors) had 4 Major engine codes including Knock sensor (Which is very new), TPS, MAP, and one other. So I'm thinking 4 bad codes out of nowhere? Maybe a bad ground. Sure enough, had 100-200 ohms between the negative battery terminal and the main engine ground.

So the next day, I went and got a new ground cable and installed. Sure enough, codes didn't return and the car ran super strong. You could even hear a difference in the starter motor - further proving that the ground was likely an issue.

then this week driving to work it goes into limp mode again. This time though, its not setting any codes :crazy: Even when I had those 4 major codes, the CEL never set. And now it's seemingly in limp mode for no reason.

I'm super fed-up with the stone-age level ECU. Got some quote yesterday on the Vipec plug-in model. I think after everything with the house is settled and closed, I'm going to buy it. Then that way, even if I decide to stay stock turbo for a while, I'll have a modern controller with far better diagnostics.

:burnout:
 
#65 ·
So this happened a while back...



Some drunk asshole at my apartment threw a fire extinguisher at my window while I was gone for the weekend. $200 later, new windshield....good as new. Still, it bounced off the roof and left some dents :( ehhh...Can't catch a break.
Closing on my house keeps getting pushed back and back. Hopefully closing in 2 weeks...GARAGE...!!!:banana:

Moving on...Work has been pretty generous with Bonuses this year so I ordered a Vipec plug-in ECU for V2 WRX from Innovative Tuning in NY. I have to wait for them to place a stocking order, so It might take a bit...but...! Super excited.

In preparation, I got an AEM wideband and EGT gauge which I'll wire into the ECU. EGT will go into my center gauge pod, taking the third spot. This left me with no place for the Wideband, so I went ahead and did this...

Center vent removed, turned into gauge pod. I wanted to keep the gauge high and within sight.

Made a cardboard template



Cut it out of carbon fiber


Cut a clearance for the gauge


And....


Hopefully I'll get to installing the working bits tomorrow.

More to come...
 
#66 ·
Wide band installed.

Land vehicle Car Vehicle Gauge Steering wheel

Land vehicle Car Vehicle Mitsubishi Mitsubishi pajero

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mitsubishi Steering wheel


Turns out I ordered the wrong EGT gauge. I wanted degrees C but I ordered degrees F. Oops. So probably will get the replacement next week.

No word on the Vipec...





Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
#67 · (Edited)
Long overdue for an update.

Since August the biggest change has been we finally have a house! And more importantly...a garage!
Home Property House Roof Vehicle


I now have my tools at home and can takle longer term projects and leave the car apart if I have to.

Updates to the car have been:
AEM egt gauge installed. Still need to install the sensor in the manifold.

Right before we moved I got a killer deal on a used Blitz Nur-spec R. This required a new down pipe as my ebay junk one was the wrong length. Picked up this AMK down pipe on Ebay for $140 shipped and it fits perfectly. Very good quality and nice cast bellmouth.
Auto part Automotive exhaust Bicycle fork Pipe Exhaust system


However! In order to install, I wanted to fix the 2 broken studs on the turbo that I had never addressed. This turned into 3 broken/damaged studs as I was trying to fix the other two. There was no way I would get this done with the turbo on the car, so I decided to remove it. Easier said than done. All 3 of the nuts mounting the turbo fought me tooth and nail on the wait out. The last one, I had to cut/chisel off which damaged the stud on the up pipe. Instead of fighting with replacing that stud too, I got an Invidia up-pipe.
Auto part Pipe

Auto part Automotive engine part Engine Carburetor


The turbo studs turned out to be a huge project. I eventually had to have some machinist friends at work help me out. They had to drill out the 3 old studs, weld the holes in, re-drill and tap all 3.
Auto part Machine tool Machine Tool accessory Tool


I got my silicone turbo inlet which is a generic reducing elbow. It has no provision for a BPV so I'm going atmospheric. This is a turbosmart kompact supersonic knock off. I'm skeptical that it will work, however it is a very simple design and so far seems to be functional. I had to modify my samco inlet hose to fit it.
Pipe


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#68 · (Edited)
The aforementioned Blitz Nur-spec all polished up thanks to some Nevr-dul
Automotive exhaust Auto part Exhaust system Pipe Muffler


And more the AMK down-pipe. I gotta mention that this is the least expensive DP with a second O2 bung for wideband on ebay. Shipping was super quick and as I said earlier, the quality and fitment was perfect.
Auto part

Material property Titanium Auto part Bicycle part Pipe

Auto part Engine Vehicle

Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Automotive engine part


I got the rear bumper off so I could start attacking the rust on the pass side rear quarter. The bumper beam itself was super rusty so I'll probably replace it with the aluminum beam. Rust is going to be a bitch. The lower panel I can buy and weld in, the fender it self I'll patch with a custom made panel.
Vehicle Car Trunk Automotive design Wheel


Blitz exhaust installed. It sounds SO much better/more aggressive than the ebay crap I had. Fitment is much better too.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Automotive exterior


I also was able to order my Vipec plug-in ECU from Innovative Tuning this week! I had to expedite shipping, but it will be worth it. Hopefully that will be my next update in the coming week or 2.



Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
#69 · (Edited)
Current engine bay shot...still have to complete my pcv/catch can vent
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive engine part


Close up of new turbo inlet and BOV
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car


Silicon inlet is a 90* reducing elbow (2.5 - 2.25" ) from siliconeintakes.com. of course there are no ports for pcv or BPV, hence the vent to Atmo pcv can and BOV. The new ECU is map based air path control, so VTA BOV will be no problem.

So far the knock off BOV seems to work okay. Its a pretty clear copy of a Turbosmart Kompact Supersonic. I have had to shim the spring a little bit to get it to work better and also removed one O ring in the piston bore. In the genuine version the piston seals right to the bore presumably by tight machining tolerance. On the knock off they use two O rings which restricted the piston movement. Removing one seems to free it up nicely and still seal.



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#73 ·
Had two projects to complete (or at least start) today:

Install EGT thermocouple

Remove intake manifold so I can finish my PCV system and pain the manifold.

Some photos from today....

It's suuuper dirty because the PS pump has been leaking for some time it looks like. Did my best to clean it up a bit, but its hard with the intake ports open and in the car. Probably will have to rebuild it at some point and thoroughly clean then.



Eliminated the throttle body/IAC coolant lines. Just ran a hose from one nipple to the other...



Crank case vent hose and T all cleaned up



I'll plug the PCV valve hole with a bolt. Heres the CC vent re-installed. Hose coming from left is from the passenger side rocker cover vent. hose going to the right goes to the drivers side rocker cover vent.



The line in middle from the T will go to the catch can mounted next to the alternator. Catch can is vented to atmosphere via the little filter. With the intake mani out, I was able to pull out all the stock plastic PCV hard lines.



I stripped the intake manifold, de-greased and cleaned, and masked



Sprayed VHT wrinkle red



Also decided to do my Apexi intake too



Still drying and wrinkling but looking pretty good...



While all that dries I got to work on the EGT probe install. Removed the drivers side exhaust manifold. Drilled with 11/32 bit...



Tapped with 1/8 NPT



Fitting installed...



Get the TC centered in the pipe..



TC and compression fitting installed and ready to go...



Thats all for today. Gotta wait for the wrinkle red to dry at least two days before I can re-assemble.

Vipec standalone should be here next week (fingers crossed!) so I'm hoping to have it all together and running by next weekend :clap:
 
#76 · (Edited)
Got the engine back together yesterday. I wasn't sold on the red before doing this but now that its all back together I'm really pleased with how it came out...
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part


After getting it back together I drove it around a bit on the stock ECU to make sure all was okay. It actually ran better than it has in a looong time. Too bad It hasn't been running like this for a while!

Onto the Vipec install...

Removed the stock 3B wagon ECU
Electronics Technology Electronic device Electrical wiring Wire


Here's what comes in the Vipec kit...

Board, anti static wrist strap, USB cable, decals and an IAT sensor that was extra
Technology Electronic device Electronics


Open the stock case up and remove the old board...
Electronics Computer hardware Hardware programmer Technology Microcontroller


Installed the new board...
Electronics Technology Electronic device Electronic instrument Electronic component


Had to notch the case so the interface cable can protrude
Technology Electronic device Electronics


Aaaand...Up and running!
Text Operating system Technology Font Computer program


Still need to configure IAT, Wideband O2 and EGT into the ecu...all on my to do list. And then base fuel tuning...

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#77 ·
Okay, so again some time has passed since I've made an update. Since last September there have been a couple of changes and a couple of trips, but mostly the car has been sitting in it's new garage.

IAT and EGT sensors were installed and configured. EGT gauge installed as well. Working on wiring...


Just after I got my Vipec ECU all up and running, I started road tuning and doing some tinkering. I noticed pretty soon on that the internal baro sensor would drift up as the car was running. After doing some diagnosing and working with both Vipec directly as well as Innovative tuning (my dealer) we figure it was defective. I must say that both Vipec and Mike/Ian at Innovative went to incredible lengths to get my problem solved. Not only did Vipec send out a new ECU immediately (without me having even sent my old one in), they got it to me from New Zealand in 3 days! And, Innovative sent me a bunch of decals and a hoodie for my trouble.
Up and Running on the new module!



All of this meant I could take my RS to LSPR rally in Houghton, Michigan as I had been planning on - but not without one more hitch.


3 days before I was supposed to leave for LSPR my radiator sprung a leak - A cracked end tank almost thwarted my plans. However, I was able to get a Mishimoto from Summit just in the nick of time.


Here's some photos from LSPR...
I'm loving the Nur spec, btw...!


A little grass mustache


Accumulated dirt from the weekend...



Also, here's a couple videos of playing with the rotational idle and a little bit of playing with the anti-lag. Let me tell you...This thing, with the crazy idle, the Blitz exhaust and Anti-lag......produces an absolutely brutal noise.




I need to get some better videos up of playing around with the anti-lag...

Other than all of that, I've just been working on getting the tune more refined.
 
#78 ·
Time for my 6 month update :lol:

The Mishimoto Rad uses GD WRX style radiator brackets so the stock ones wouldn't work. I got some Mishimoto brackets to match...Perrin wants something like $70 for these! The MM Brackets we're $22.


Next up...I had been suspecting my knock off BOV had been the source of a boost leak. The car will spike to like 12PSI and then quickly drop and hold 10-11PSI. So I got a 25mm plug to completely block off the BOV. I'm not worried about the turbo...I'm already using anti-lag and this is just a little more torture for the stock TD04. Plus, a friend of mine has been using no BOV on his VF39 for more than a year with no issues.


Also, played around with some turbo blue 110 Leaded race gas. Because why not. Found a gas station like 3 miles from my house that sells it!


A couple of non RS related updates...

Finally pulled the trigger on a garage heater. This will make it possible for me to start the rebuild on the RS this winter. My plan is to completely tear the car down and clean, rust kill, and replaces parts as needed (bushings, suspension, etc.). My main goal is to get all of the rust cut out and fixed and all of the body work repaired.

So anyways...new heater and gas line installed in my garage...Heater install this weekend:



Also got new rubber for the STi...Gonna need brakes soon too which isn't going to be cheap...
 
#82 · (Edited)
Well, it's been more than a year since I've updated but I'm at the point that I hope to document a new chapter in my RS's history.

This month will mark 10 years that I've owned my RS. It's insane to think that this machine has actually been with me that long, yet not hard to understand why the car means so much to me.

Over the last year or two I've been fortunate enough to work with 3 of my best friends on the Fervor Rally Sport GF8 build . This build really inspired me to do a complete, top down re-build on my RS. I've always had the plans to do a "refresh" and take care of rust and other issues. But I've decided and since begun a complete tear-down restoration. My goal, whether it be a caged and fully prepped rally / track build or aggressive street car build (still not sure at this point) is to have a completely rust free, refreshed car.

Well...first things first...I had been putting off some further garage upgrades for a while. Life and Other hobbies in the way. Life Update: Got married in September of this year!

Anyways...I finally got some better lighting installed and built up a tire rack outa scrap wood to clear some floor space in my tiny garage.



I got the car positioned and on jack stands and started removing exterior panels...




Got all of the window trim and moldings off. Most of it in good shape and re-usable. I'm thinking probably a couple pieces will have to be replaced...


This revealed some A-pillar rust. Not super terrible, and certainly repairable.



About halfway into removing the interior, found some really disappointing rust damage to the drivers side floor. There was actually crystallized salt under the carpet. Thanks to Michigan winters, no doubt... I'm not sure yet If I'll try to patch it with flat sheet or buy a whole floor pan and replace the bad parts.


 
#83 ·
THE Major issue with my particular chassis is crash damage leftover from the previous owner on the drivers side rear quarter panel. When I first repaired the car, I went the cheap rout and pulled/filled the panel. Now, it's starting to rust underneath the filler and falling apart.

So, I bit the bullet and bought the factory rear quarter panel. This is how it should have been fixed in the first place.

Picking it up from the dealer...this is a huge part. Its nearly half the car.



It's a very complete part though, which is awesome and should make installation a bit easier.



It even comes with the lower extension which is awesome because I've got a good bit of rust here...


Next step is to finish interior tear down and remove the glass. Then I can cut out the bad sheet metal and begin prepping to weld in the new panel.
 
#85 ·
The Vipec logic is MAP based so it doesn't use the MAF. It comes with an intake temp sensor that needs to be installed in the manifold. I'm hoping to do a turbo upgrade after getting the chassis and body all sorted.

Started to cut the glass out tonight. I got this harbor freight tool and it actually works pretty well...it just takes two people to use.

Got the quarter glass out and called it a night. Hopefully more tomorrow!
 
#88 ·
Interior tear-down continues...

Headliner is out


Dash is out...Took a while to carefully remove my gauges and wiring. Next time I'll be sure to chose smarter routing for that stuff...


Cracked myself up because apparently at some point during my swap I soldered a ground directly to my dash beam :lol: I don't remember doing that but it held up!


One step closer...starting to feel like a shell. Hoping to get the rest of the glass out this weekend.
 
#89 · (Edited)
Slow progress lately. Spent most of January working on finishing the Fervor Rally Sport OBS and then crewing at Sno*drift.

Getting back into it...

Got the car stripped down a little further. drilled out all the spot welds and marked up where to cut...



 
#90 · (Edited)
Made my cuts...

At the sill...


At the B Pillar...


And at the C pillar...


It took A LOT of work drilling spot welds along where the quarter meets the C pillar and the trunk. I spent a good 2-3 hours getting it free...but finally, it gave up aaaand...



And then I got the lower trunk extension off...

Lots of rust down here...going to have to replace the inner extension too...


Thanks to Garrett (Equinox92) I also picked up a passenger side quarter panel today! Should make rust repair on that side much easier.


A little celebration...it was bitter sweet to see my beloved little machine all cut up, but it's a good feeling knowing that it's being improved.

More progress soon!
 
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