Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

Stew's 98RS

144K views 718 replies 81 participants last post by  Combat Chuck 
#1 · (Edited)
The time has finally come for me to organize a members journal! Ive been a member here since I purchased my 98 2.5RS in late December of 2005. My car, not unlike myself, has been through a lot since then and made many changes. And now, upon organizing parts and information for my swap, I though I should get the cars history laid out so I can properly journal its future :D

Current Photos:










Current Mod List 3/13/2023

Engine / Exhaust / Fuel System

Version 9 EJ207
Injector Dynamics 1050X Injectors
IAG Competition series oil pan / baffle / pickup
IAG polyurethane engine mounts
KSTech DBW throttle adapter
2007 2.5i DBW Throttle Body
Roger Clark Motorsports Downpipe
Roger Clark Motorsports Group N turbo-inlet
Roger Clark Motorsports Alloy Cam Gears (Exhaust Side)
IAG V3 competition AOS
HKS Kevlar timing belt
Roger Clark Motorsports timing belt guide
PTP Turbo Blanket
Grimmspeed Turbo Heat Shield
ETS Top Mount Intercooler
Samco intercooler elbow
Tial Q BOV w/Torque Solutions Adapter
Forge BOV
Aluminati Expansion Tank
CSF Oil Cooler (#8119)
RCM Black Series Oil Sandwich Plate
CSF Aluminum Radiator
Spal 12" fan
Samco radiator hoses
iWire radiator shroud
Cobb overflow bottle w/iWire bracket
K&N Filter w/ 3" Vibrant velocity stack & custom inlet adapter
Fuelab low-pressure lift pump
Radium Venturi transfer pump
Radium Surge Tank w/Walbro 255
Radium In-line fuel filter
Continental Flex Fuel Sensor



Drivetrain
Kotouc (KAPS) R4 Sequential Transmission (P2 ratios 3.33 / 2.38 / 1.80 / 1.37 / 1.06 / 0.84 )
Version 9 Sti 6MT transmission TY856WB8KA
Version 9 R180 rear diff
ACT StreetLite flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 Organic HD Clutch
OEM Exedy Clutch
Goodrich Stainless Braided Clutch Line
Torque solutions transmissions mount (poly)
Torque solutions solid carrier bearing bushings (Aluminum)
Kartboy transmission crossmember bushings
Whiteline front and rear shifter bushings
Torque solutions solid shifter u-joint
Whiteline rear diff bushings (rear crossmember)
Whiteline T-frame bushings
IAG Competition pitch stop


Suspension / Steering
V9 STI 5x114 hubs
V9 STi subframes (front/rear)
V9 STi sway bars (front / rear)
Feal 441+ Coilovers w/Swift springs (10k/8k) (9k/8k)
Swift Helper Springs
Professional Awesome 777 Bumpstops
JDM GC8 STi Aluminum control arms
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline roll center kit
Whiteline control arm bushings
Whiteline lateral link bushings
Whiteline trailing arm bushings
Whiteline rear endlinks
Whitleine rear sway-bar mounts
Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear sway bar
Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway bar
SwayAway front endlinks (for 2015 STi)
2015 STi Steering Rack
L&E Rack steering shaft adapter
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Chasebays power steering reservoir
Mooresport power steering pump adapter
IAG -6an PS high pressure line, custom -6an return line, custom -8an suction line


Brakes
C6 Z06 Corvette 6 piston front calipers w/12.8" STI Rotors
STi Brembo rear calipers
Stoptech Stainless Braided Brake Lines
G-LOC R12 / R10 Brake pads
Centric blank front rotors
Brembo blank rear rotors
CompBrake brake servo
Nameless performance 18" Hydro Handbrake

Wheels/Tires
Enkei PF05 17x8.5 +48
WedsSport TC105X 17x8.5 +43
Falken Azenis RT660 235/40/17
ARP Extended wheel studs

Interior / Safety
Sparco Sprint seat on custom fabricated mounts
Sparco steering wheel
Snap-off R1000 quick release
Custom roll cage built to SCCA GCR specs (1.5"x0.120" DOM)
Schroth Profi 3x2 FIA Harnesses
Renscott Harness Collars
6OC lightweight door panels
181stleader Carbon fuel tank access covers
Custom central switch panel
6OC Drivers floor plate
iWire DBW pedal adaptor
Flocked Dash
Rennline/Rennscot fire extinguisher mount w/Maxout 2.5lb extinguisher


Exterior
Aerosim Research carbon fiber race roof
V6 / RS front bumper w/Fog light covers
JDM Smooth rear bumper
JDM Lightweight bumper beams
JDM Rear spats
JDM Taillights
JDM Clear Corner Lights
Clear side markers
L'aunsport S5 WRC style Rear wing
Bakemono 22B Hood Vents
Bakemono Carbon S201 Mirrors
Shaved side moldings
Shaved trunk
Custom Pearl Blue paint
30% Ceramic window tint
RPG Carbon WRC Mirrors
RPG Carbon Exhaust Shroud
V5/6 Replica front lip

Electronics
Haltech Nexus R5 VCU
Haltech PD16 Power Distribution Module
Haltech 15 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech 8 Button CAN Keypad
Haltech TCA-8 CAN Thermocouple Module w/Prospeed connector brace
Haltech CAN Hub
Haltech TMS-4
ECU Master Dual H-Bridge module
Plex SDM700 Digital Dash Logger
Custom motorsport wire harness
MAPDCCD Center Diff controller
MSEL Solid state battery isolator
Odyssey PC680 Battery
2006+ WRX DBW Pedal / Throttle Body
KA NTC2 Fast motorsports IAT sensor (Intake Manifold)
RIFE IAT charge cooler temp sensor (Intercooler)
Lowdoller Motorsports oil pressure sensor
Lowdoller Motorsport oil temp sensor
Delphi Flex Fuel Sensor w/Raceart Mount
MAC 3port EBCS w/Raceart Mount
AIM Sport 2k PSI brake pressure sensors
Hella Sharptones Horn




Introduction
My name is Steven and this is my long-standing journal documenting the path of my 1998 2.5RS from purchase, daily driving, to now many years later restoration and transition into a dedicated track car. The most recent phase of this project has taken me roughly 6 years. 5 years, but I'm getting close to having a complete car, with the goal for a running driving car later this summer (2021). I'm at the point now where the car is so nearly road-worthy. I'm making a big push, and the goal now is to have it track ready by July 2022. I've now been using and enjoying the car from the summer of 2022. A project like this is never "complete" but its in some version of done. I'll continue to update this as it continues to evolve.

Original Intro from 2005
Heres my Introduction and story for how I got my car:
My name is Steven Stewart and I'm from lower West Michigan. When I was a freshman in college I was in the market for a new car after crashing my first car, a 95 Nissan Altima, into a telephone pole in the snow. Im not exactly sure what sparked my interest in Subarus but It was pretty quickly that I decided I wanted an impreza.

I browsed Ebay, autotrader, craigs list, news papers and such for a couple weeks looking for a new car. One session on ebay, I clicked on a link for this wrecked blue 98 coupe but just glanced at it and moved on. Later, I returned to that link and realized it was about 40min from my house! So the next day I went and looked at it, drove it around the parking lot (it was salvaged title, thats all I could do :( ) and immediately fell in love. They wanted $5500 for it off the lot and that was way too much so I decided to bid on it on Ebay. I Lost the auction to a sniper and it went for $3600 :( I was pretty sad I didnt get it. Anyways, two days later i found it listed again on Ebay! I called them right away, offered $3600 cash and picked it up the next day!

12-21-2005 Purchase!
Heres two pictures the dealer used on the ebay auction




And here she is at the body shop I worked at the day I brought it home




After this, I began the process of rebuilding my new purchase.
 

Attachments

See less See more
10
#305 ·
Sanded the car all back down with 120 again to get rid of all the funky finish from the first coat.


Also fixed a couple issues with the drivers A pillar that I noticed. Eastwood glazing putty is perfect for this.


Mixed up some primer, this time 4:1:1 primer:activator:reducer and it shot like butter. Soooo much better this time. I’m actually really happy with how it came out. 2 coats this time.



Out in the sun it looks super good. All my panels are nice and straight, so it shouldn’t need much blocking from here.



The A pillar and antenna delete is spot on. Stoked with this...



What a milestone. Basically the entire body (not counting the engine bay) is rust free, restored and ready for paint. Such a good feeling looking at this thing.



Fuck yeah.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#310 ·
Thanks All!

A little more reading on tubing sizes...reading a couple other sets of rules (Gridlife Rules for example) require 0.120” wall tubing for cars down to 2500lbs. So I’m just planning on 0120 wall tubing for sure now. Going to order 80’ soonish.

Spent tonight setting up the notcher. Took some fiddling to get everything lined up. Unfortunately with a round table on the drill press, I couldn’t get more than partially supported without interfering with a tube at high angle notches. I also ended up having to shim it with some razor blades.


Within 0.1 degree between the spindle and the bearing carrier.



One of the nice things about this notcher is the hole saws thread directly onto the shaft instead of using a bolt.


Made some test notches on 1” tube I had for subframe mounts. Took some time to get it all centered.


Not bad! Gotta figure out how I’m gonna brace these...can’t wait to get building.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#312 ·
Yeeeees....How much more effort is it to bend 120 versus 095? I honestly...I just don't like the look of the larger tubes. I know that's low criteria for cage construction, but honestly, I probably won't do much more than HPDE's. Probably no real competition.

Since I’m replying...micro progress. Made these two tubes for the subframe reinforcement.


 
#315 · (Edited)
Ooookay...Well, I've been busy. I finally bit the bullet and bought material to do the cage. I figured once the steel was in my hands I had no excuses not to get it done. First things first...I wanted to finish up the rear sub-frame brace.

Ordered more 1" DOM for the rear brace and some 0.125 flat stock for cage feet.


For the rear brace, I went with an X braced from the sub-frame tubes up to a 2" round pad welded to the strut tower.




Next was cage feet. I started on the rear because they're the simplest! Just a couple of easy square cuts...putting the band-saw to use. Not my best welds on these. It can be really difficult to weld relatively thick metal to the extremely thin sheet metal the body is made of.





Main hoop feet. I got the welds dialed in pretty well for these. Went with a simple design here. No boxes. Just plating the corners of the floor. This puts the main-hoop slightly more inward than it can be if built up on boxes. However, It's the way we built the cage in the rally car and that design is informing this design...so...It's what I went with. Still a solid design.





Then the DOM showed up...80' of 1.5x0.120


Got the bender mounted. I bought stainless drop-in anchors. Borrowed a hammer drill from my father in-law and got 'er bolted down.



First things first...I made myself a bend gauge...AKA "Cheater"


Then got started on the main-hoop. I think it's a cage-building right of passage that you scrap a main-hoop at least once. My first attempt got over-bent, but the second hoop was perfect :blol:



Had to mock up the roof to measure out the main hoop and confirm clearance. This was actually the first time I test fit the Aerosim roof. It got me super pumped to see it on the car...



Made the main-hoop diagonal brace and tacked it in. Simple single diag and harness bar is the goal.




Yesterday I got started with rear stays to position the main-hoop. Easy peasy, two bars done.




Next...Forward hoops. Usually quite challenging to make. I knocked these out really well. Very pleased with the fitment. My goal was to allow clearance for the stock dash bar to be used. I need to make the front feet yet, so the height should change a bit and tuck the tube just a bit closer the A-pillar and roof. Also made up a rear diagonal brace for the main hoop.







And that's where it sits. I'm stoked and really happy with the progress. My goal is to completely finish the cage by the end of the month. Next up will be front feet and door bars!

 
#320 · (Edited)
It clears, I promise! It's tight, but its clear by about 1/8". I've had issues with helmet clearance in the rally car, so I wanted this as high as possible. I might trim a hair more off before final welding.

I know...I fully admit this design wastes some space around the B-pillar. But I happen to like the foot design and went with it.
 
#321 ·
More cage progress....

Made the front rocker boxes.



Welded them up...




Test fit everything then welded them to the floor.


Made the windshield / halo bar ...




Then I put the driver door back on and mocked up my 6OC door card for the door bars. Then...made door bars.




So yet to complete: passenger door bars. Harness bar (need a seat first). And I’m going to re-do the rear diagonal cuz I wasn’t happy with it. Then a couple small diagonal support bars and gussets. Almost done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#322 ·
The main issue with going up that far is you cannot weld all the way around the bars properly. I can already see you having issued fitting the gun in there for proper penetration. Welding blindly just reduces the strength of that joint leading to a major fail point where you least want one.

I tried that route too at first
 
#325 ·
Bue...I see what your saying. It will be tight in that corner. I could clearance the roof channel a bit to make more room for the torch, but I don’t think it will help much. Lowering to hoop a half inch would help but only just. I think I’m gonna send it...:lol: I dunno...

A little more progress this weekend...

Made some windshield bar supports...


Mocked up passenger side door bars...


Re-made the rear diagonal support, now going the other direction.


Mocked up the dash bar, steering wheel and pedals to get an approximate driving position and shoulder height.


Started to make the harness bar when my notcher failed. Womp.


So anyway, this is where I left it. Still need to finish the harness bar (gonna order my seat first), mock up passenger door and door panel to finish fitting the door bars, maybe make a roof bar...then clean up the interior and weld it up.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#327 ·
I was about to weld it up and then paused...It should be under warranty and I'd like them to cover it...which maybe they wouldn't if I dicked with welding it up. I spent good money on a quality notcher...it shouldn't have broke.

I'll probably finish notching these by hand. Otherwise I've got another buddy locally who can loan me one. I appreciate the offer though!!
 
#328 ·
Alllright, some progress...With all the bars cut...

I welded the diagonal in the main hoop and then welded the rear stays in to locate the main hoop...




I mounted the passenger door and panel and finished fitting the passenger door bars.


Welded up to the front hoop as much as I could. Then I let it cool, popped out the whole forward hoop with the two door bars and welded them fully around the front inside of the forward hoop. Did the same on the driver side too...






Re-fitted the forward hoops and welded the door bars to the main hoop...





Welded in the windshield bar and tube gusset support things...


Fitment on the windshield bar...tacked to the chassis at the center...


Welded in the rear diagonal...




Today I made gussets...Starting with the A Pillar...






Then B Pillar...



And there it is. Starting to look like a race car...


Next I need to make taco-gussets. I ordered a seat but it's taking forever to ship, I'm almost out of shield gas, and I'm waiting to hear back on some custom seat mounts...so progress will likely slow over the next two weeks.
 
#329 ·
Made taco gussets today...









Welded them up...decided to stitch them rather than fully weld.



And there she sits. I’m one harness bar away from finished!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#330 ·
I'm still peeved about those Jbug's dies. The cage is looking great. Forewarning if you're going for a sanctioning body they sometimes require filling welding gussets.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
#332 ·
Got my seat! Doggo approved.



Threw the dash bar and wheel back in so I could estimate my driving position. Propped the seat up on some wood blocks to get it positioned.


Got my harness bar sized up and tacked in...



The guy I was going to get my seat brackets from blew me off, so I decided to make my own. I drew these up based on the position of the mounting holes with the seat in place. I'm going to have a friend of a friend CNC cut them. They should give me roughly an inch and a quarter up/down adjustment and 4.5 inches front back adjustment.



Totally felt good to sit in the car...!
 
Top