Power steering is in and even more miraculously it doesn't leak. I think I still need to get some air out because the pump is a bit loud at full lock while over 2000RPM. I can't tell if the pump is way overboosting the steering or it's just that I hadn't had power steering in that car for the last 3 months. I guess my old pump and rack were 23 years old and leaking as well, so I probably don't have a good basis of comparison. Anyways, a smaller steering wheel is definitely in my future to get a bit of feeling back. Anyone have a favorite smaller wheel that's easy to swap in? I'm not too worried about retaining airbags but right now the budget is stretched pretty thin ...
For those keeping score at home, the current setup is:
- 2000-2006 Legacy reservoir (with its rubber hoses attached) and hard lines
- 2003 BL/BP EJ204 pump (Interchange info inconclusive)
- 1993-1996 GC/GM/GF rack
Everything bolts up and fits all nice and cozy together. Nothing needs to be forced or bent. 11/10, would lego again.
Some people on the Internet seem to think the easiest way to flush power steering fluid is to use a turkey baster to suck up the old stuff from the reservoir and restart the car like 5-6 times. What's even easier is hooking a 3/8" inner diameter plastic hose to the return side from the rack and just running the car for about 10 seconds while a friend pours in more fluid. I wish every fluid flush on the whole car could be done like that ...
Man this is looking great. I've never been the biggest fan of those wheels but on this car they look fantastic. That V4 bumper is going to look mad with the two tone.
Thanks for the kind words! I'm debating right now between getting a couple replacements (one wheel is bent, but balances and one or two others are badly curb rashed) or finding a different 17x7 that I like. I saw a set of these come up on CL recently ...
... and I've become strangely enamored with them. I always seem to have odd taste in wheels though ... :S
I'd need a throttle body with a really short linkage and then I'd need to get the throttle cable attached down there. I *think* at this point I've actually had one of each of the non-turbo non-DBW throttle bodies on my workbench (EJ18E, EJ22E/EJ25D, EJ222/EJ251). I'm pretty sure the one I'm using (EJ222) actually has the shortest linkage and it didn't seem like it wanted to fit with the linkage facing down.
I'm pretty sure that I can lose the cruise control linkage and shorten the rod, but that's actually somewhere down my priority list below getting the IAC working before it's cold and raining outside ...
Late update time, once again! I got it aligned at NWRS on Friday and sadly they couldn't quite get everything to where I had wanted it. Somehow the Whiteline KCA335 strut tops + the max adjsutment from the camber bolts in the front were only good for about 1* of negative camber. That's a little lower than I was hoping for, but not the end of the world. What was a little sad to find out is that the rear camber is -0.5* on one side and -0.9* on the other. That's within spec, but not my favorite situation ever. I knew it had a rebuilt title before I got it and it was hit again in the rear last Summer, but I assume this pretty much confirms it's tweaked a bit in the rear. Ah well.
So that was the bad news. The good news is that it handles *amazingly*. This is now by far the best handling car I've owned. The ride quality is massively improved. 90% of vibration through the steering wheel is gone. The cabin noise seems less at freeway speeds (probably due to more effective dampening?). And the feeling on twisty roads is ... like a drug. I giggled like a kid. I just point it where I want it to go and it goes there. No complaints, no flopping around on corner to corner transitions. And then on mid-corner bumps where the old suspension would let the car get bounced around, they just get soaked up now. On combined hard braking and turning in I can feel it roll just a touch, but not in an obnoxious or unsettling way. The biggest issue is that it's just so damn confidence inspiring. Roads that I was driving at 9/10 I'm now going much faster on while the car feels like it's about 5/10. I am now definitely the weak link in the equation. Time to get it out to auto-x before the season is over.
Next up is to set aside a week or so when the car can be down and redo the adapter wiring harness to add wires for:
- Idle air control valve
- cam sensors
- AVCS control
- purge control solenoid valve
- intake air temp from the newer MAP "grunt box"-style intake instead of the 93-96 MAF intake
- knock sensor
- Maybe an oil pressure sender in place of the oil pressure switch
I'm also going to bite the bullet and actually yank all the butt connectors, shorten up the harness and repin one side of it. I'll probably also do that to the WBO2 controller harness as well. I was hesitant to cut any wires shorter than I needed to when I was first putting this together but I have like 3ft of extra harness under the hood right now, and it's not doing anyone any good.
He sent me a (wonderful) wall of text with parts suggestions, suspension swapping howto tidbits and some alignment recommendations when I bought the springs from him. Here's the excerpt on alignment settings:
If using Whiteline KCA335 top mounts - 1deg 45mins (1.75deg) negative camber, per side + additional positive caster.
If using the stock front top mounts you'll probably get a max of negative 1degree 20mins (1.33deg), per side,but no additional caster.
Start with zero front toe.
If subsequently required:
Use Front toe-out 0.04mins (0.07deg) per side, if steering is twitchy - too responsive to steering inputs.
Use Front toe-in 0.04mins (0.07deg) per side, to quicken turn-in - may adversely effect mid-corner and corner exit.
15mins (0.25deg) rear toe-in (positive), per side = running a rear slip-angle gives instantaneous response to steering inputs.
The rear camber isn't technically adjustable, but there is play in the bolt holes. Slack off the bolts and minimise, then equalise, the rear camber. Neg 1deg rear, or less, per side, would be good.