Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

Luke's BH9 Outback - EJ251 Turbo

43K views 173 replies 13 participants last post by  scruff3333 
#1 · (Edited)
This is the story of my Rev D 2.5 manual 2003 Outback BH5. It has 423,000km and looks the part.

This car will take over daily duties from my GF8 so I can repair the rear end damage.

My parents bought this car second hand in roughly 2006 to replace an old Mazda 626 wagon. It had about 100,000-130,000km on it. Since them they've put another 300,000km on it. In the 13 years of ownership the only mechanical failure was the clutch at 300,000km. This car has had battles with several kangaroos and wombats and lived to see another day. It has hauled cows, sheep and alpacas and much more in the boot. It burns oil like a 2 stroke and it still won't die.

As it has reached 423,000km it has been retired into my hands.

Mod List

Engine
  • Twin Scroll Equal Length Headers (Unknown Brand)(Wrapped in Heatwrap Tape)
  • Twin Scroll to Single Up-pipe (Unknown Brand)(Wrapped in Heatwrap Tape)
  • 57mm (2.25 inch) Intercooler Piping
  • Front Mount (65mm x 180mm x 550mm)(2.5" x 7" x 21.5")
  • TD04 off a 2004 WRX Sedan (EJ205)(Using 5-6 PSI Wastegate)
  • New Age Alternator Cover
  • Custom 2.5" exhaust
Handling
  • Front Sway Bar off a GC8 WRX Wagon
  • Front Sway Bar off a GC8 WRX Wagon
  • 316mm 2 Pot Front Brakes off a 2007 Spec B H6 Wagon
  • Koni Front and Rear Adjustable Struts
  • Gen 4 GT Springs
  • B4 Rear Sway Bar
  • Liberty (Legacy) Rear Bumpstops
Internal
  • Black Leather Front Seats off a 2000 Liberty Sedan
  • Black Leather Rear Seats off a 2000 Outback Limited (Not Originally from that Car)
  • Leather Armrest off a 2000 Outback Limited
  • Leather Door Cards off a 2000 Outback Limited
  • Sony XAV-AX100 Head Unit
External
  • GT-B Legacy Hatch and Wing
  • Rev D Turbo Bonnet
  • Front and Rear Spats
  • JDM Legacy Center Garnish
  • Custom Outback Grill
  • OEM Rain Guards
Wheels
  • Advan RG1's 17x7.5 +45
  • Bridgestone RE003 235/45R17

Engine Management/Support
  • Project Lambda
  • Bosch 3 Bar Map Sensor
  • AEM Air/Fuel Gauge 30-4110
  • Aem Boost Gauge 30-4406
-------------------------------------------

Stock Options Equipped

Engine
  • EJ251
  • 5 Speed Manual Low Range Gearbox
Exterior
  • JDM Headlights
  • Front Fender Indicators
  • Clear Rear Indicators
  • AUDM Bumpers, Wheel Arches, Sideskirts and Door Panels (All slightly different from the USDM ones for reasons I guess)
-------------------------------------------

Components Replaced. Either as Listed Above or Due to bad Condition
  • Front Bumper
  • Front Seats
  • Rear Seats
  • Glove Box Cover- Radio Trim
  • Rear Cup Holders
  • Door Cards
  • Boot Scuff Panels
  • Spare Wheel Cover
  • Mirrors
  • Rear Tailgate
  • Tailgate Center Garnish
  • Drivers Fog Light
  • Subframe
  • Steering Rack
  • Radiator Cap
  • AC Tensioner
  • Drivers Sun Visor
  • Carpet






Luke :)
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#2 · (Edited)
So here it is. Stock as a rock. The Interior is filthy and the exterior isn't much better. But it has no rust, hasn't ever been in an accident and has a clean title. So to start this off I figured I should show some of the abuse it was put under for its 13 years of service.



Here is the condition as of my takeover.

The bonnet is wrecked (thanks to a combination of me and a kargaroo), the boot-lid is dented from a tow-ball, both mirrors are held in place by silicon, and the clear-coat is non existent on the passenger side (it doesn't look as bad in picture due to the rain).









Hopefully when I'm done it'll look much better than this.

Luke :)
 
#3 · (Edited)
So this all started as a what if. And it really started to evolved into reality after I ran into a set of 4 pots and 2 pots at the wreckers yard. I originally bought them for my GF8 but soon changed my mind as I couldn't be bothered the bleed the brakes again.

As purchased ($84 for the 4 Pots) ($108 for the 2 Pots)





Before and after a repaint.


All painted and pins cleaned.




Then it started to snowball as the parts started to pile up,

First the smaller parts. Leather armrest as an upgrade and the others to replace broken parts. A new 'Limited' as mine had fallen of. It's important to note I still didn't have the car at this point.



Then the larger items came. Leather door-card are included in this I just forgot to take pictures.

Leather Front Seats with SRS Airbags ($130)




Leather Rear Seats ($60)




Cheers, Luke
 
#4 · (Edited)
So when you have a car that's interior has been inhabited by the likes of alpaca, sheep and cows the best thing to do it just replace everything. So that's was it did.

Armed with new front and rear Seats, new door cards, radio shroud, armrest, and boot scuff panels that was the past weekends mission.

So to answer the question, "can you fit and outback interior into your GF8?" yes but I wouldn't recommend it.



I started with the boot as it seemed the easiest. Here's a before and after, sorry about the blurry picture.

While the panels where out I decide to clean the years of dust from the local road. Left is dirty and right is clean.




Here's the carpet are the clean. I didn't dare to take a picture of before as it was horrifying.




The pile of parts not needed anymore.




Various clips, nuts, bolts and screws collected from the old panels.




The old seats and door cards. For the fact they'd maybe been cleaned 5 times in as many years they weren't too bad. Dog being the dog.




The dog being more approving of the new interior.




Better shot of the new seats. I have a new steering wheel outer, just needs to be restitched






And from the back. Gotta keep the cargo nets.




All in all the new interior cost $323 AUD. There's still one or two pieces to get but not bad tbh.

And that brings this journal up to date. Progress with probably be intermittent as the car is at my parents 2 hours away, but hopefully not to slow.

Cheers for the read, Luke :)
 
#5 · (Edited)
So over the holidays my work has a shutdown period. This left me with some time to get to work.

First I moved the outback into a location out of the way, but still able to be worked on easily.



Once that was located we had to get a photo of all the cars together. As you can see we have a theme going.



Engine bay pre tear-down.



Then the tear down of the engine began. This is all being done so that I can replace the sub-frame with a turbo version.





The engine ready to lift. This was two days before the engine was actually pulled as I couldn't get the nut undone on the lower bellhousing.



The engine finally out. Overall it was easy just a long process as it was all new to me. That being said it's not something I'd like to do frequently.



Heavy duty degreaser is a beautiful thing. Engine looks clean(ish) now.



The engine is now in storage until the sub-frame is replaced. This is how you make a Porsche right?



Engine bay needs a clean. I'd like to paint it but I don't think I have the skill level to remove everything out for paint. I'm going to speak to a spray painter up the road and see what he thinks.



The causalities of the engine removal. I have a bad habit of breaking the A/C tensioner as I did it in my first GC8 a couple of years back. Not bad all things considered.



I also picked up a new gear shifter trim as the old ones leather was destroyed.



That's all for now. This is a huge step for me as it always felt like the unachievable goal and now its done it kind of feels like I know what I'm doing.

Luke :)
 
#6 · (Edited)
So a bit more progress. The weather has been so erratic meaning getting anything done on the car was a pain, and I'm back at work now so I can only work on it on weekends.

I was dragged along to Melbourne (9 hour drive) by my dad so he didn't have to be the only driver and while I was down there I picked up a 99 WRX subframe with steering rack and sway bar for $150. By sheer luck the steering rack just bolts up to the steering column so yay.



The mess of the car with stuff being stored under it



Dog tax as always



Started cleaning the engine bay as prepping for paint. I spoke with the spray painter down the road and he said just to paint it satin black so that's the plan. He also said he'll paint the car for free in his booth if I do the prep work so that's awesome.

Also question for people who've painted the engine bay, is it worth removing all the brake lines and booster or is masking sufficient. I'm currently at a crossroads with what to do.



Some before and afters of the engine bay.





I'm hoping to getting the engine bay degreased and masked ready for paint this weekend. I'm stoked that the WRX rack has the same spline as the outback as I've heard the horror stories of the difference splines for them.

Also anyone know what the fitment of the GD WRX exhaust is like on the BH chassis as I have my eye on a few but want to confirm it fits.

Cheers, Luke :)
 
#7 ·
hey mate nice project you got going on. I'm actually doing something similar (slowly getting there...) But instead of changing the crossmember i'm using a 2.5i exhaust manifold, changing the sump and will make a custo up and down pipe setup.

How are you going to run the injectors? Project lambda ecu or piggy-back?

PS isn't that car a BH9 model?? Looks identical to mine..
 
#9 ·
How are you going to run the injectors? Project lambda ecu or piggy-back?
I haven't actually though about that yet. I'm hoping I won't need the injectors but I'm not sure yet. I'd really like to be able to run on the stock ecu/without a piggy-back as wiring isn't something I'm very good at.

PS isn't that car a BH9 model?? Looks identical to mine..
Fixed. I started the journal before I'd looked at the vin plate. I've had a quick look only and BH5 seems to be turbo whereas BH9 is NA.

Does that make NA-T BH7 as it's in the middle?

nice work so far!
Cheers mate. You shave a ton of knowledge with NA-T so any hints or tricks?
 
#10 ·
haha BH7 sound logical!

I have already put a 3bar map sensor on my motor months ago and it is running really good, i used the project lambda software to change the settings. It would be pretty dicey not doing any ECU mods. I've got the standard injectors pretty much maxed out on my current motor (delta 1500 cams and some other work), so i doubt it would handle much boost at all without running lean. the other route is adding a 5th injector on sort sort of controller. I once had a microtech microfueler on a VL turbo motor adding fuel above 10psi..
 
#11 ·
so i doubt it would handle much boost at all without running lean.
I figured that to be the case. I've been looking into rrfpr and voltage clamps as they seem to be what a lot of people are running on the Facebook NA-T groups.

I had a quick look at the Project Lambda website and to my understanding its a ECU reflash project. How hard is it to run.
 
#13 ·
The project lambda stuff is easy to setup and get running. But learning how the software works is what takes a lot of time (like any other tuning software though). I have had it for a while and still have hardly any idea of what does what.. access to a dyno would help a lot!

For the basic upgrading of the MAP sensor and injectors though, it looks easy.. I'm about to install the blue 550cc injectors and check the settings, plus check it with a proper O2 sensor. Fingers crossed
 
#14 · (Edited)
crjohnson I'm seriously considering Project Lambda now. Engine management seems like a good idea haha.

So last weekend I started by stripping the front bumper, crash bar off and fenders. There was one missing and one rounded bolt on the crash bar, and one of the fender bolts on the pinch weld broke but nothing major.

I found a little more damage from the wombat that hit the drivers side but it was only the small brackets and nothing a hammer couldn't fix.



Next I removed the brake booster and lines. I was expecting this to be a nightmare but it was pretty easy once I realised that the brake lines weren't connected to the booster. You can also see to ac condenser moved out of the core support for access.



I then proceed to wet sand it all with 320 grit. That was last weekend consumed.



During the week I decided to modify the crash support bar to allow for a front mount. Unknown to me at the time was that I was basically turning in into the Legacy/Liberty version which was thinner.

The was just achieved with an angle grinder and a spot weld drill. Only grinding the stitch welds and whats shown in the second photo.





Today (friday) I did a half-day at work and then traveled to my parents for the Australia Day long weekend. My aim for today was to clean with wax and grease remover, and mask of everything for painting.

Everything clean and masked for paint. I finished this at about 3:30-4ish in the afternoon.



When this was done it was 38 degrees and it was a dry heat so I decided to paint. I used an acrylic satin black and the end result looks great. All for less than $35 too.



Masking removed and closer photos.







The results turned out better than expected. The plan for the weekend is to install the WRX sub-frame and steering rack, and slowing reinstall everything else.

Thanks for reading, Luke :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
nice work!
Cheers guys, I've had a bad experience with cars and rattle cans before so it was nice that nothing went wrong.

You can download the project lambda software for free, have a look and see what you think
I was just doing that before writing this. They don't have a basemap for 2003 but they do for the year before so I think that will work.

Well here's what it looked like at the end of the next day. Nothing to exciting but its getting there. All the wiring and brake lines in place as well as a few other things.



To clear the incoming front mount I flipped the temp sensor on the bracket. No cutting required.



Before replacing the sub-frame I got some rubberised underliner to redo the wheel wells. I'll do more coats when I replace the brakes and suspension. Before and after.

Subframe in. This was fun as I couldn't get to to balance on the jack.



When I went to bolt the swaybar link on to the control arm I noticed that I couldn't steer at all. Turns out it was upside down. No idea why???



The other fender and crash bar back on. The crash bar will be getting painted, I just was to get the intercooler fitted first so I don't have to paint it multiple times.



Bumper back on. Taken from the same angle somehow.



Front end back together. It's a bit disheartening when it looks like this when you've put so much work into it.



Replaced fog light. It took the brunt of collision with wombat and the bracket is bent to shit. It also has a hole in it so a new one was in order.



And what it looks like at the end of the weekend. This makes it all worth it and, although I'm biased I think it looks great.



This was how it was left on Sunday and nothing else was really done on Monday (public holiday) except for measuring for the front mount and working out how to route the piping.

Next step is to get the engine back in. I'm planning on getting it running as stock first so I can troubleshoot anything that isn't working before adding the complexity of a turbo.

That's all for now, so thanks for reading
Luke :)
 
#147 ·
So here's the rest of the update as I got a ton of things done this weekend.

Warning to others. Don't tighten down you lug nuts fully without wheels as this will happen. I killed 7 doing this which was luckily the amount of spares I had.



Next is another glamour shot I guess you could call it.



Finally got round to installing the JDM Legacy rear garnish. The light wiring was different so I used the Outback harness. I'll need a blanking plug as the JDM harness has four lights and the Outback only has three.



I got around to installing the rest of the head unit stuff. The antenna adapter was easy. I wanted a clean install for the mic so this was my solution. Drill a hole in a blank switch slot. Push mic in. Secure in the back with hot glue.



You can see it near the indicator stalk. I don't think its obvious and seems to work as testing so far indicates.



That was Saturday. Below is Sunday's work. First I went through and removed everything from the car that wasn't bolted down as a lot of shit has accumulated over the past 9 months. I sorted it all out later and only about 20% went back into the car.

Next was to replace the smaller boot panel as the old one has old on it. There seems to be slight differences between Liberty's (above) and Outback's (below). I knife fixed this up quick.



Next I decided to pull up the carpet and replace it as it was disgusting. Which lead me to the ECU

Do you have a pic of your ECU? There's a fair chance it'll be the same as mine which the 2002 map in Project Lambda was created for.
It only took me 9 months but I finally have a picture. Can you confirm if it's the same as yours if possible.



Comparison of the carpets. The image doesn't convey how bad the old (right) carpet was.



Only issue with my $20 replacement carpet was a small hole near the dead pedal. I did my best to patch with some of the old carpet. It doesn't look the best this close but you can't see the patch with the carpet installed.



New carpet installed. There's also a new glove box cover and drivers side B pillar cover installed, which like the carpet I've had laying around for a while now.



The rest of the interior is back in now and a lot less stuff is now stored in the car compared to the start of the day.

Here's a final shoot with my $13 sun reflector. Pretty good eBay purchase tbh.



There's always going to be more to do but list of things to do is getting shorter by the day. I haven't had much time to look at project Lambda and get my head around it yet but that's the next task. Any suggestions on good resources with learning to tune and stuff as I'm super lost when it comes to it all?

On a quick note I should be looking at a Subaru Brumby (Brat) tomorrow on my parents behalf so that should be cool to add to the collection. And of course it's got stupid high kilometers.

Anyway thanks for reading.
Luke :)
 
#20 · (Edited)
Well as we all know with working on cars, some days everything goes right, and other it doesn't. This weekend a few think went wrong and it just makes you feel like shit. But that's working of cars, or any project to be honest.

So when researching for images of an outback with a turbo hood I found this image, and it pretty much shows the end goal/looks/stance for this project. Don't know whether to go with a turbo hood though.



Image source:
(VIC) Subaru Gen3 Outback, Bilsteins, BBS's, Leather, Twin Sunroof etc.

So progress this weekend was alright but I wish I got more done. I started with getting the rest of the stuff back in the engine bay like the cruise control unit and such.

Then was the fun of the power steering. As you can see below the ports between the Outback and the WRX are slightly different. To fix this I just bent the top hose as it was pretty malleable.






I also managed to pick up another piece of the turbo puzzle. A TD04. I already had a seized one that I got for $20 but the shaft broke so I got another. The bonus is that I now have a waste-gate for the 5-6 psi range and the 7-8 psi range as they changed from one to another in about 2004-2005.

Later I found that the TD04 was the only useful piece in this photo



Seized turbo on the left with the 5-6 psi waste-gate



Next I went to fit the headers to the engine and they wouldn't fix. I had ignored the part about the water pump outlet being in the way as I didn't want to deal with it. I was pretty annoyed with myself on that as it was stupid of me to do.



Then I found I couldn't even fix the up-pipe because of the cat hitting the back of the head. This was really annoying.



Then up-pipe broke at the flex joint. I was over it all at this point and it was 37 degrees which didn't help.



So I decided to get the engine back in the car and then call it for the day.



It needs a good clean but before I got the chance it started to rain so that was the end of the work for the weekend.

So to sum up the weekend, I got none of the exhaust fitted, some of it broke, I didn't achieve my goal of getting the engine started, I was tired as shit, and to finish up I managed to have the bonnet fall on my head. The drive home was a pretty solemn one.

On Monday I decided the solution to my problem was to throw money at it. Kidding, but I was looking for a new up-pipe and found a set of Equal length, sort of twin scroll headers and matching up-pipe that should clear the water pump and the head. So I parted ways with $250 of my Australian dollarydoos and it was mine. Should arrive sometime next week.



Being that this will arrive next week and that I haven't taken a weekend off from working on the car this year I'm not going to work on it this weekend. I need a break and its a good chance to get some other parts like a dump pipe and maybe a new door for the GF8 as one is dinged.

So that's all for a little while, hopefully next time I update this the engine will be running, who knows.

Luke :)
 
#21 · (Edited)
Dang dude, trial after trial! I understand your pain. There's nothing like that rage after the hood hits your head haha.

I was actually looking at scooped hoods for these yesterday. Found a couple Baja turbo hoods for like 880 bux... But you may have better luck than I. :blow_money_original:

Nice progress, she's getting there!

Edit: my 2 cents, I've used the stock plastic t-stat housing with a turbo manifold for a while now with no issues. They ARE butted right up together but I've got some cheapo heat wrap on both pieces. The only thing is the stock radiator hose is starting to wear out. I'll be looking for a silicone replacement.
 
#23 ·
Dang dude, trial after trial! I understand your pain. There's nothing like that rage after the hood hits your head haha.

I was actually looking at scooped hoods for these yesterday. Found a couple Baja turbo hoods for like 880 bux... But you may have better luck than I. :blow_money_original:

Nice progress, she's getting there!

Edit: my 2 cents, I've used the stock plastic t-stat housing with a turbo manifold for a while now with no issues. They ARE butted right up together but I've got some cheapo heat wrap on both pieces. The only thing is the stock radiator hose is starting to wear out. I'll be looking for a silicone replacement.
Thanks mate. Luckily enough we got the B4 Liberty (Legacy) in Australia so I've seen a few for about the $200-$300 AUD range. I have to get a new bonnet anyway but I'm still 50/50 on whether I have the hood scoop or not as I like both.

That's good news on the t-housing front. As the old manifold had no heat shield the only thing hitting was the flange. The new only should clear easy though.

if you have trouble with the thermostat cover, check out if there's any FB25's motors at the wreckers. They have alloy thermo covers that bolt straight on, point on a slight angle but should be sweet with a little radiator hose tweak.

I put up some pics here: Alloy Thermostat housing - bottom entry style - General Discussion - Suby Club
Will do. Funnily enough I actually stumbled across your photos on subyclub today while on break. I was reading a thread about a TT swapped outback and was like that user name looks familiar. Then when I was on the home page I saw the photos.

As SoCoNoHa said above I should be able the run the plastic t-housing but this seems like a better long term solution and something I'll definitely do in the future.

Have you got a build thread of your car on there as I'd love to see more photos.
 
#26 ·
I'm not sure how much bigger your engine bay is than a GC's but I tried to run a similarly shaped header and it would not fit with the radiator.
I think there's a bigger gap as they had the EZ30's in them stock. So buy the logic that the EZ30's are tight in the GC/GF's but not in the BH's I can hope it would fit.

I'd measure the BH9 against my GF8 but I don't have access to the BH9 when I'm in Sydney
 
#28 · (Edited)
So quick update and junkyard finds.

The headers arrived on thursday, a week earlier than expected which is awesome, not that I can install them. And today I picked up a replacement dump pipe one the way back from getting a new door for the GF8. I only had half of one because I'm an idiot.



And on the way back I stopped in at Pick 'n' Payless, the local pick and pull yard. I've had great finds hear before and today was no exception.

I managed to get a genuine Legacy GT-B wing for $55 which is a steal. Paint is shit (its the wrong colour anyway) and I think its missing the two brake light screw covers (I don't know if they ever had them). I'd been on the fence about getting one when I saw a rep for $125 locally. So this was a no brainer at that price.

Bottom photo showing the excellent paint job.


So that's for now. I'll be back working on it next week, hopefully getting the engine started.

Luke :)
 
#30 · (Edited)
Yeah I've been lucky a few times. Sadly there's times I've had to leave stuff as I didn't have the tools or I didn't have a use for. I've come across alloy control arms, V1-V3 GC8 WRX bonnet, plenty of nice catbacks and axleback exhausts, WRX front and rear seats. This is all at the same pick and pull too. It helps to know what the good parts are too.

So after a two week break, I'm back. I'm glad I did take the break as my arm is still bruised from the bonnet incident. If it was a steel bonnet as opposed to an aluminum one things would have been worse.

So this is what I returned to. A very dusty, and very sad looking outback. You can see my trusty steed, the GF8 to the side with her shiny new door.



So the first thing I started to work on was installing the headers. Fortunately these ones fit. They take a bit of wiggling to get in place as they're aftermarket, and probably eBay.



As you can see plenty of clearence with the thermostat housing. I thing the FB25 housing in order before this becomes the daily.
I'm not sure how much bigger your engine bay is than a GC's but I tried to run a similarly shaped header and it would not fit with the radiator.
As I suspected the engine bay is slightly longer, and even though the headers are slightly different, I don't think they would fit in a GC/GF



Next was the get all the accessories bolted back on. I had removed the radiator for ease of work earlier in the day. It's looking relatively clean too which I'm happy about. I don't want show car clean, but I'd like it to not look like a 420,000 km engine.



Next was to fill it with oil, only the cheapest stuff for this nugget. I'll probably put a better oil in it before engineering and registration. As you can see my custom oil funnel, no more spillage.



Next was to install the battery to test that I've put it back together properly. And by battery I mean jumper cables to the GF8. I first tested it with the fuel pump fuse remove to get some oil around it and because I was nervous about it all.

Once that test went fine, I put the fuse back in. It took a little while for fuel to circulate again but once it didn't It starts no problem. I originally had the accelerator cable to tight so I had to adjust that so it didn't redline.



Next was to install the uppipe. This was a pain and I had to lift the engine up to get it in place. This was done with a car jack and a brick.

I can't seem to get the turbo in place as the fuel lines are in the way. If anyone knows the trick to this, I'd love to know, otherwise it's tomorrows project.



Radiator back in. I've managed the lose a hose clamp on the lower tube so another trip to the wreckers is in order soon.



So with getting the turbo to fit, I think I may end have to remove the manifold. If that's the case I paint it while its out. I'd love to paint it white, but you can get it as wrinkle paint and I don't think I could live with the finish so either red or black it is. Probably red.

So in review, I got the headers installed the the engine started. I still don't know it the clutch still works as I don't have any fluid for it. If I end up going for wrinkle paint tomorrow, I'll get some and test that next.

That's it's for today, so cheers
Luke :)
 
#31 ·
Ah yes, the old FPR in the way of the turbo... I think you can literally 180 the fuel rails and lines on the manifold, then you just have to extend your feed and return lines across the engine bay.

Personally, I found another set of fuel lines and stole the rail without the FPR, chopped the steel lines off a few cm from the rails and connected with extra fuel hose.

Here's a stock setup next to my parallel setup. Both are upside down. You can see how I was able to relocate the regulator out of the way.


Also, are those headers for a FB engine?!
 
#33 ·
Ah yes, the old FPR in the way of the turbo... I think you can literally 180 the fuel rails and lines on the manifold, then you just have to extend your feed and return lines across the engine bay.

Personally, I found another set of fuel lines and stole the rail without the FPR, chopped the steel lines off a few cm from the rails and connected with extra fuel hose.
Cheers for this info. I figured I wasn't the first person to have that problem. I do like the look of the the custom one. I'll see if I can bend the lines out of the way first, then rotated if that doesn't work but it's a good third solution.

Also, are those headers for a FB engine?!
Nah, they're just aftermarket EJ ones. I don't even know of FA/FB ones would bolt up. A low mount turbo would be awesome though.

Today I didn't get much done. I was aiming to get the manifold of but I didn't have time as I had other plans. I get bleed the clutch and checked that it would engage by stalling the car and that was all fine.

So next weekend the target is to get the manifold off and the turbo fitted so I can start with oil and coolant hoses.

Luke :)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top