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SoCoNoHa's Flavor of the Week
View Poll Results: What engine should I put in my car?
EJ18 Block/EJ18 Heads 0 0%
EJ18 Block/EJ22T Heads 1 8.33%
EJ22 Block/EJ22T Heads 6 50.00%
EJ22 Block/EJ25D Heads 2 16.67%
EJ25 Block/EJ22T Heads 1 8.33%
EZ30D 3 25.00%
Other 3 25.00%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-29-2018, 07:47 AM   #61
George.of.the.Jungle
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i like it a lot. i had it on both my 25D and the OE 22E. i like how quickly the revs drop. plus i've got it in my head that all the lightness is allowing more power to the ground. lol
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:01 AM   #62
Gene
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I have read extensively that on the H4 the combo of very light flywheel, (under 11 pounds) and the really light crank pulley can fool the ecu which causes that issue especially when coasting to a stop.

People have said it affects even H6, though I know that it doesn't both the EG33 as I have run that on my 6 speed swapped svx.
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:02 PM   #63
SoCoNoHa
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Default Good news everyone!

Turns out my BOV was the culprit. If it's connected to the manifold, the terrific vacuum at idle will pull the valve open. Since it's not hooked up for recirc yet, this allows unmetered air into the engine. The result was ~19:1 AFRs at idle making the car stumble and generally run like garbage.
Now I've got the BOV tee'd with the RRFPR connected to the turbo compressor nipple. My stock FPR is unhooked and so is the wastegate.
Car goes like a bat outta hell! But the AFRs lean out after 6ish pounds of boost. I would've thought the 8:1 RRFPR would take care of that... time for bigger injectors I guess.

Moral of the story: GeorgeOfTheJungle, disconnect your BOV, QUICK! wait do you have MAP...?
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:49 PM   #64
Flat4awd
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Badass!

Glad you sorted the small ish, now bring it over so I can drive it
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:02 PM   #65
SoCoNoHa
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Default Booooooost!

So I haven't really been driving around with no wastegate. I JUST got it running, don't wanna blow it up. I had the WG disco'ed for a short time just to see what it would do. After like 6-8ish psi it would lean out bad, to the point the engine would dramatically loose power and stumble. And I saw it shoot over 14! I don't believe it caused any damage though, no strange sounds or behaviors during or after the incident.
Right now, with the WG, I'm getting about 6 psi, with afrs starting around 14:1 in boost tapering to 12ish. I believe my RRFPR is damaged, so I'm looking for another one of those, plus a hose to connect my BOV to my intake, as well as a manual boost controller. I'd like to see 8-10 psi and I'm confident the engine can take it if it gets enough fuel.
Anyway it's a blast to drive now, compared to how pitifully slow it was. It's nearly impossible to stay out of BOOOOOOOOOST!

Already thinking about WMI and a front mount, why not twin charge it?
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:39 AM   #66
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Default Bye-bye, clutch!

Here's a small update:

My OBX FMU was nothing but trouble. Besides the fact they come from the factory needing some modifications to function correctly, mine was missing part of a gasket, then this small metal disc that restricts the flow of fuel got a hole punched in it from the piston.

The theory of the FMU is solid, but poorly executed. With quality materials it would probly work pretty well for more than a week.

So after trying various ways of band-aiding that thing back together, I said to hell with it, and dropped in some 550cc STI yellows. I know what you're thinking; it's gonna run pig rich.

Well, it did. But no problem, everytime I've tried to plug in my o2 sensor it causes the engine to run crazy lean. Like won't even idle, 19:1+ afr's lean. Hopefully that will counteract the oversized injectors!

...Nope. Still runs crazy rich with the o2 plugged in. Ok last resort time. I've taken a leaf outta Reddevil's book and wired a potentiometer into the MAF signal line. If you haven't read his thread, it's AWESOME! Installed my supercharger today! - NASIOC

He apparently used a 50k one, all I could scrounge up were a 100k and a 500k! Dropped in the 100k, and nothing with the o2 connected, but disconnected it works like a charm! Turn the knob and my afr's climb! YES! But it wasn't enough, I had to switch to the 500k to get (more than) enough adjustment.

So now I've ditched the stupid FMU and just have 550cc injectors and a MAF pot, and my car is faaaaast! Well it is when the clutch holds! It will slip as soon as boost hits from 3rd through 5th, and sometimes in 2nd that's what 11.5 psi gets me.

But damn she moves! and my AFR's are right where I want them in boost if I'm just slightly rich at idle, or I can lean things out for long cruises at constant speed. This seems too good to be true, but my EGT's and AFR's are excellent, so I'll roll with it. Boost is 11.5 psi now and no sign of detonation.

Also installed my CF hood, jeezy petes it's light! Pics this afternoon.
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:16 PM   #67
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That is awesome.
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:08 PM   #68
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Thanks Gene!

Here's a couple pics. Unfortunately my clutch now slips in 2nd as well, so I'm turning the boost down till I get a new clutch. Well I have a stage 2 clutch, I just need to install it.... ugh.

CF is hella light



Relocated AFR readout and installed Oil Pressure gauge

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Old 05-08-2018, 03:52 AM   #69
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Here's a pic of my recirc setup for my BOV (BPV?)



Not sure what I used, just some metal pipe with rubber hose on each end, grabbed it from a parts bin so it's from some Subaru or another at least. It runs tightly behind my throttle body from the stock BOV. The sketchiest part was cutting a hole in my turbo inlet elbow, but that went well enough and the rubber house fit very snuggly in there. I then sealed the perimeter by smearing Ultra Black on there and letting it dry overnight. That stuff holds great and has enough flex to allow for movement and vibration. Too bad I lost that cool BOV sound, though...

I need to mount my boost controller better, now it's just ziptied to the MAF sensor harness.



The plan for today is to get my intercooler shroud mounted to my new hood. This weekend I intend to do the clutch, and I figure I might as well throw in the 4.111 trans while I'm at it. Basically it depends on how the rear diff comes out. Im a little nervous that's where I'm gonna get stuck with snapped bolts and torn bushings/mounts. Wish me luck.

P.S. just wanna say that my thermostat housing is surviving just fine with all the heat wrap.
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Old 05-08-2018, 08:00 AM   #70
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Stylin.
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