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What engine should I put in my car?

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SoCoNoHa's Flavor of the Week

35K views 242 replies 20 participants last post by  SoCoNoHa 
#1 · (Edited)
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Current Status
~=Drivetrain=~
2002 EZ30D
97 Outback 4.111 5MT
Welded Rear Diff

~=Brakes=~
H6 L.L.B. Brakes
ABS Delete (Incomplete)

~=Suspension=~
Tien Lowering Springs
GD WRX Struts
GD Aluminum LCA's
GD Subframes/Axles/Everything

~=Exterior=~
95 VisRacing Carbon Fiber Hood
Rotated Scoop
97-01 Grill/Headlights
97-01 L Bumper Modded
eBay Wing
Clear Lenses all around

~=Interior=~
VDO oil pressure gauge
06 Impreza OBS Steering Wheel
GD Center Console
Semi-Stripped

To-Do List
New exhaust
Install LD Performance launch control!
Redo Brake Lines
Rear Sway Bar/Rear Strut Bar
Re-install Cruise Control
Enable Fuel Tank Vent
Twin Turbo install
Restore Trim
Rust Repair

Wish List
6MT
Engine Management
Black Interior

Table-o-Contents
Page 2: Installed Intercooler Shroud / Bumper / AFR / Went to CO
Page 3: Installed Walbro 255
Page 4-6: TURBO INSTALL
Page 7: More Fuel / CF Hood / Recirc BOV
Page 8: Clutch Install / 2.2/2.5 Frankenmotor Install
 
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5
#2 · (Edited)
History and Future Plans

To be honest, I never really saw myself owning an Impreza. I've always been a Legacy man. I've had 5 or so Legacy's, two of which ended up with phase 1 EZ30s under the hood. ;)

However, when I saw this little AWD, 5 speed, OBD1 Coupe on Craigslist for 1600, I just couldn't resist.

Little bit of backstory here:
Project Berserker - The Subaru SVX World Network
And feel free to read up on an amazing car while you're there.

Yea, it's kinda beat. Lots of rust underneath, the interior is absolutely roached, and there was a tube sock ziptied over the MAF as a filter... But with under 100k on the clock and a strong running 1.8 I said screw it.

I've been driving it as is with the gutless 1.8L and horrendous 3.90 trans, and I love it. Can't wait to see what a little more power and proper gear ratios will do for it! My initial plans were to drop an EZ30 in it, but I've decided to hold off on that for a while and try turboing the 1.8. I've seen several people achieve great results with the 1.8 block/2.2 heads combo, so that's my plan for now. Eventually I'll get the H6 in there and hopefully boost that as well!
Other than that I've got a 4.111 trans and rear diff from a 97 Outback which I expect to yield a massive improvement in drive-ability. I really hate the 3.90 gears...

Thanks for reading!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Quick question for those in the know:
I have an OBX 8:1 FMU (RRFPR) which I think is a little overkill for my meager intentions for boost. Can I just use a Manual Boost Controller in the vacuum/boost reference line to lower the ratio?
My thoughts are; If the rrfpr sees 50% of the actual boost, it should increase fuel pressure by 50% of its ratio. I.E. making my 8:1 rrfpr a 4:1 rrfpr.
Is this logic sound? Thanks in advance.

Edit: I'm now thinking this WOULD NOT work, since an MBC is more of a boost 'delay' than a 'reducer'.
Also 8:1 wasn't enough, although I'm unsure if that was because my particular FMU was defective or not.
 
#4 ·
you may not need a RRFPR. for some reason, my AFR's were almost exactly the same with and without it. i would try the car with just boost and no RRFPR, then try out the 8:1 and see what it does to your afr's.

also, since you're taking the engine apart already for head change, might as well just run the 22 block for more torques.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the input, GOTJ! Did you also have a 1.8 or was yours a 2.2? I'll try it without the rrfpr regardless, I do have a walbro 255 so...

I have yet to locate a set of dual port 2.2 heads close/cheap enough, so I'm planning on turboing the 1.8 as is for now, then being able to turn up the boost once i get the heads.
And for some reason I feel I've seen far more stories of the 2.2 going pop, probly because far more 2.2s have been boosted.

At any rate, if I really need more torque I've got two EZ30s waiting for homes. :D
 
#8 ·
Hey Rick! Yea I was afraid I'd have to use a hosting site... oh well. I'll try to make it worth the wait, maybe lol.
Ps thanks for hooking me up with almost literally EVERYTHING I need to put this together!
 
#12 ·
Finally back from Mass, I installed my intercooler splitter after work yesterday:




It's hard to tell but the shroud JUST squeakes by the TPS


Unfortunately only one hole lined up in my hood, I had to use seven self tappers. Oh well, looks cool through the scoop.
Up next: Rear Sway Bar!
 
#13 · (Edited)
Strange noises

Hey all, any idea what this sound is???

EJ18 knocking, quiet after warm up? - YouTube

Only apparent when the engine is cold. It literally, LITERALLY sounds perfect when it reaches near operating temp.
Also the video makes it sound... trebly, i guess. It's much deeper and more solid sounding person.

I just replaced my T-belt tensioner and idlers about a week ago, anyone think one of those already failed? I know aftermarket parts are a gamble...

Meh, I'm gonna check the tensioner today anyway, will post results. In the meantime, feel free to offer suggestions...
Thanks!

Edit: engine runs and performs normally, fluids are good, definitely thinking it's the tensioner, won't get to see until later.

Further Edit: it WAS the Timing Belt Tensioner, I threw the old one back in for now and she's nice and quiet. Guess I should order one from Subaru, since the eBay one lasted almost a week...
 
#15 · (Edited)
New Bumper/AFR Gauge/Clear Tails

Finally got my turbo oil feed fitting..... NOT! It's too small for my feed line, that's what I get for guessing :bonk: I swear I'll have boost some day...

I did manage to modify my new bumper and get it installed, install and connect my Wideband O2 sensor, and swap in my clear tail lights.

Start with this


Cut out a bunch of garbage


Get some mesh, cut it to fit, paint it, and ziptie it in


Yank off the old bumper

I had to cut off the bottom half of my bumper support beam to get the new bumper to fit (and look good)

In with the new, and voila!
Before and after



Finally have a working AFR readout

Had to remove the stock O2 as I didn't want to weld another bung into a manifold I'm not keeping. It threw a code briefly but it's been fine so far. I'll reinstall it when I put the turbo exhaust pieces in.
It runs a little lean at light throttle/cruising. I'm guessing it's a combination of my modified intake and my lack of O2 sensor. It's not too bad, about 15.0 at the leanest and around 13.2 at WOT.
Anybody know if I can safely run a Walbro 255 with the stock everything else (Injectors/FPR/Intake)? I'm ok with running a tad rich, but I don't wanna be at like 10:1 ALL the time. Any guidance is appreciated, thanks!
 
#17 ·
Nice work on the intercooler splitter, it's coming together for ya.

The loud idle sounds like ej1.8 lifters, this would stand to reason since you said it goes away after it warms up-Whereas the tensioner or pulleys would be always be loud if something wonky was going on. When my car is low on oil I experience the ticking as well, try not to rev a cold engine.

That bumper came out awesome!
 
#18 ·
Thanks guys, I think the look of the car is massively improved, just need side skirts and rear spats... oh and those sweet 6 spoke RS rims.

Flat4, I definitely have loud lifters as well, but changing out the tensioner got rid of the knocking sound that I was concerned about. It was similar to my 97 ej22 when it skipped a couple teeth, quite loud. It is weird that it would quiet down after it reached operating temp tho...
 
#19 ·
Oh ya, I'm in Colorado for the week, helping my buddy get his 86 Suburban back on the road. Expect a couple pics of the fun.
Anywho, he's borrowing this POS so that's what I'm driving around in now...

It's automatic :facepalm:

But the scenery makes up for it. These were taken right from his porch!

 
#21 ·
Kinda close, I'm staying in Minturn, about 10 min from Vail :naughty: Just got off the mountain actually, first time I've been boarding in probly 6+ years... I can't wait to not be able to walk for the rest of my 'vacation' haha
 
#24 ·
Yesterday I traded out the lower portion of my Impreza's air filter box because the one for the EJ18 had a roughly two inch hole to pull air through from the fender. I happened to have one from a Legacy or Outback kicking around, and the fender hole is like three and a half inches. Threw that in, and immediately noticed the car feels more solid. Can't really say faster, but it seems more willing to go when I'm just taking it easy and not driving aggressively. Unfortunately my cruising and light throttle AFR's were now around 15.2/15.3!

Enter this guy:


I got a steal of a deal on this genuine Walbro 255 from Flat4awd. Can't thank you enough!

I figured what's the worst that could happen? Either I'll be running too rich or nothing will really change. Screw it, in it goes. I'll just yank these seats out and OH GREAT.


Just my luck haha, you can hardly tell that's SUPPOSED to be a Philips head screw. Well I'd prefer not to drill it out if I don't have to, so I tried grinding a slot in it.


Ok, that came out pretty well... I'll just grab this bigass flathead and... gently now, easy does it...


Success! :banana:

I think a big part of this technique working lies in the details. You wanna grind a deep enough slot to grab with the flathead, but you don't want to go all the way through the screw/bolt head and slice it in half. I also put the flathead in the slot and then gave it a few firm taps with a hammer to try and 'seat' it in there and also to 'break' loose the threads. Don't break the head off though!


******* rodents.

From here on it was pretty straightforward. The filter sock thing that came with the Walbro sits at a 90 degree angle to the pump, whereas the stock one is only 45 degrees out. This is because the pump itself sits at a 45, and allows the filter sock to lay flat in the tank. I just reused the stocker for now. It's a little dirty outside, but inside is clean so I'm okay with it until I find a new one (hint hint cough cough Flat4awd).

Here's the Walbro all mounted up with the stock sock. There's the stock fuel pump next to it with the TINY aftermarket sock. Even though the pumps are sitting at different angles, you can still kinda tell that the aftermarket sock wouldn't work. My estimate is fuel starvation with around an eighth of a tank left!


This isn't the first fuel pump I've replace, but I'm always a little thrown by those open electrical connections SUBMERGED IN FUEL. Just kinda goes against all that stuff I was taught about electricity and fluids/gasoline and ignition sources... oh well.

After reinstalling the fuel pump assembly, I just used my remote starter from a safe distance to test it out :p

No worries, everything works great... wait what's that sound? Holy crap this pump is LOUD! Oh well, I listen to loud music anywho, and nothing is louder than my tires right now.

AFR's are now mid 14's when cruising/light throttle. I'm good with that. Also noticed a bit more pep. Could be placebo, but I really think I improved my cars drive-ability!

Not the fuel economy though.
 
#29 ·
also waiting for some boosted EZ30.......
You and me both! I constantly wonder if I should forget turboing the 1.8 but I've already spent too much money and time to turn back now...

I'd really like to find a ride 1st gen Legacy and drop the EZ30 in there, but those are hard to find in my area.

How's your SVX running? I've got a 92 Pearl White with black on top as well, absolutely LOVE that car.
 
#31 · (Edited)
So, this weekend was very productive :D

Got my SVX running again, just in case...
Also got my 'Preza on some new rims!


So I elected to swap the 22T heads on yesterday, got started about 9am. I tore everything off the top of the block while I drained the 'coolant'.


Then I tinkered with my turbo oil feed and oil pressure switch.



I purchased a 3/8 BSPT to 4AN adapter on eBay and put that where the pressure switch was. Then, using the bushing from another engine, I put the pressure switch in a galley port on the rear of the block.



No turning back now.


I got the other head off as well. Then I cleaned the mating surfaces, and mounted the drivers side 22T head.


At some point I quickly cleaned up and ran out to O'Reillys to pick up my spark plugs that came in. I'll be using NGK Iridium BKR8EIX, same as Joejoe69 did in his 1.8T.
Then I was able to halfway bolt up the WRX exhaust manifold to see where the up pipe would line up so I could...

BAM! Little bit o time with an angle grinder fixes most anything.

Once I was satisfied that I had brutalized my crossmember enough, I slapped the other head on and then re-applied the timing gear.


From here on its all about the boost!



So after that I got the intake manifold back on and the sun started to get low so I cleaned up and went in.

All in all, I'm very happy with my Sunday. I've never done head gaskets before so I'm hoping I didn't mess that up too bad. I was able to get the old heads off and install the new ones without moving the block whatsoever. Didn't even have to jack up the sides, although it was tricky.
I'm debating on installing my RRFPR now or waiting to see what my AFRs are.

Still to do:
Install down pipe
Install turbo
Run turbo coolant lines
Cobble turbo inlet together
Drill and tap passenger head for exhaust stud
Mount intercooler
Install timing belt end covers
Reconnect fuel lines
Reconnect vacuum lines
Drill and tap ex. manifold for EGT probe
Relocate EGR canister
Heat wrap wiring harness
Fill oil/coolant
Drive?!
 
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