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Neme-WAGUN ej2.0g

53K views 467 replies 22 participants last post by  NemeGuero 
#1 · (Edited)
So..
picked me up another chassis. $600 and it runs, mostly!
Still have the ej20g, gearbox, RobTune and iWire harness, stance coilovers (I had just bought to replace my godspeed crap) and lots of other parts... so here we go again!

From the ashes, she will rise!






past build for reference:
Neme-WAAGUUNN EJ18t - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com


Modifications:
EXTERIOR:
Orciari lip
ganador mirrors
v6 smooth rear bumper
jdm spats
jdm roof rails
OEM crystal headlights
jdm front and rear crash beam
Stance XR1 Coilovers
jdm wagon sideskirts
v6 front bumper
v6 grille
yellow fogs
RS hood
JDM tail lights
STi midspoiler
Syms rep top spoiler
Sunroof to be cut and welded onto wagon roof panel


INTERIOR:
Zealous Carpet
555 type RA seats (Blue)
v1 dash


ENGINE:
AC delete - including evaporator under dash
ej20g v2 STi
Robtune 440 with launch control
OEM 2007 STi 145 LPH Fuel Pump
STi intercooler with metal charge pipe
HKS SSQV BOV
Apexi intake
Iwire Merge
Intercooler sprayer
ZeroSports IC Splitter



BRAKES:
4 pot fronts
2 pot rears
1 1/16 SVX BMC
RA prop valve
ABS Delete
SS brake lines


DRIVETRAIN:
KSB03 Exedy OEM clutch
EXEDY FWSBL02FF Flywheel
Kartboy short shifter kit (TiC)
Upgraded shifter knuckle (TiC)
JDM 4.11 gearbox


SUSPENSION:
Stance XR1 coilovers
TruHart trailing and lateral links
Group N rear subframe bushings
Whiteline trailing arm hub bushings W61383A
Whiteline outrigger bushings
TiC trans crossmember bushings
Group N engine mounts
Group N trans mount
Whiteline LCA inner bushings
Whiteline ALK (balljoints, tie rod outters and outer control arm)


WHEELS:
ESR SR01 17x8.5 +30


STILL NEED:
steering rack bushings KSR202
SS power steering lines
rear differential bushings Superpro
TorqueSolutions Dogbone
smaller uppipe turbo bracket
 

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#57 ·
rest of the bay stuff removed! Yes the fuse box came out easiest for me up through the engine bay. But you need to remove the hood latch cable with it and unplug some stuff under the dash at the internal fuse box and also remove the part that connects along the bottom of the radiator support. Takes a bit of finesse to get it through the triangle cutout but it fits.



wire harness out, pedals out, everything out.

 
#60 ·
single booster. better pedal feel. the dual will give you a softish pedal, and when you leep pushing it firms up.

cable clutch. simple. one part. you dont have a master, slave, lines.. bleeding, all that can fail. making my car is cable and it lasted over 300k. however.. if youre planning some HD-wise.. cable wont last and won't be able to hold when you push the clutch in.
 
#65 · (Edited)
:)

tank is out


now I get to decipher this mess:




I found the DIY GD tank threads so I'll just have to sit down and make sense of them now.



interior gutted.. not many bolts left on this car that I haven't turned. wee



there are a few areas on the bottom that have some light surface rust.. I'd hate to come this far and overlook them. I don't want to go down the whole sandblast route but any recommendations? I'm going to pressure wash and maybe sand some of the rust and then hit the under belly with rhino liner or something.
 
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