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Paul's 97' GF - EJ22T swap - Rust and Rallycross
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:58 PM   #21
Mitch4522
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As far as the swap went whats the best route for wiring harness? im picking an ej22t for dirt cheap soon and curious what tips you have
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:56 PM   #22
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Cool log man! I'll be following
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Old 12-22-2016, 02:56 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Mitch4522 View Post
As far as the swap went whats the best route for wiring harness? im picking an ej22t for dirt cheap soon and curious what tips you have
Mine is running on the stock 1.8L brighton harness with the apexi S-afc neo. It's a bit of a hackjob to be honest. The '02 wrx ecu I want to run will require a whole whackload of sensors, ignition coils (I'm going the LS / LQ GM truck coil route), and some other stuffs. Check out the '02 wrx ecu swap into the 2.5rs' that people are doing, plenty of threads about that. Mine is similar except I'm turbo and running a phase 1 motor (2.2t), so we'll see if I can even pull it off.

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Cool log man! I'll be following
Thanks! If nothing else I'll make sure to be entertaining XP

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Originally Posted by kay95 View Post
Did you get the rear axles with the suretrac? I cant find it anymore but I had to recut the c clip grooves to keep the axles in the correct location so I didn't leak oil. You can use the 98+ axles and take the inner cups off. The splines aren't hard but are super tough. I turned them in a lathe but grinding them would have been easier.
My buddy who I bought it from ran it in his H6 Outback without any special axles or clips and had zero issues. He did swap the actual diff core into his housing and swapped the ring gear over etx, so that may be why. I'll be doing the same, just into the 4.44 housing I have. We'll see how things go!
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Old 12-25-2016, 07:36 PM   #24
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Are you sure it is a Suretrac? Do you have a picture of it?

You wont see any spider gears and should see oil scopes on the ring gear side. It is very obvious when you put the shafts in if it is good or not. One side will almost fit correctly and the other side will really be off.
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:39 AM   #25
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Are you sure it is a Suretrac? Do you have a picture of it?

You wont see any spider gears and should see oil scopes on the ring gear side. It is very obvious when you put the shafts in if it is good or not. One side will almost fit correctly and the other side will really be off.
I'm 100% sure it's a suretrac, I've seen the diff out of the housing when he was swapping it.

To my knowledge the version 3/4 suretracs had asymetrical axles (different lengths), the version 5 and 6 used the same axles as any other impreza/wrx etc, afaik. I drove the car with the diff installed, and it was definitely working as intended with regular axles installed.

The diff is currently sitting in a rear subframe with axles in it etx, I'll be prying into it and installing it hopefully before January 7th etc.

Also, to note, the RA transmission is for sale, I've decided that I want to save costs / a friend basically threw a 4.11 push style 5 speed at me that will work with my clutch etx. (out of a '01 forester).
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:29 PM   #26
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Hmm I was told mine came from a v6 WRX. Wonder if that wasn't the case then? This was maybe six years ago too. There was no information then about it.

I was using it without modifying the axles and it would leak alittle every once in a while. So it will work with USDM axles. It is a very nice LSD too!!!

With crappy tires in the rain a NA 1.8 can get sideways!!
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:46 AM   #27
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If I had one car, this would be it.

Great build man, keep it up!
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:06 AM   #28
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Hmm I was told mine came from a v6 WRX. Wonder if that wasn't the case then? This was maybe six years ago too. There was no information then about it.

I was using it without modifying the axles and it would leak alittle every once in a while. So it will work with USDM axles. It is a very nice LSD too!!!

With crappy tires in the rain a NA 1.8 can get sideways!!
Refer to below photos, but as far as I can tell, this is a suretrac, and when I extracted it from the subframe, the axles were of identical length, and standard fitment. I have driven the car that the diff was in before, and it definitely behaved correctly, no leaks!



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Originally Posted by allaflhollows View Post
If I had one car, this would be it.

Great build man, keep it up!
Thanks, I've reached the point where I've considered scrapping the chassis and swapping the driveline into my clean shell, but that's a whole whack of work, but for now if the car doesn't totally **** it's self on me, I'll keep beating on it until it does!

So, Updates!

Firstly, I made it to the January Jaunt Nav. Rally alongside @scoobywagon02 in his Green machine ( who finished 3rd in his class! Kudos to him on the win!)

Myself and my navigator/mechanic ended up placing 3rd last, but he is still very much so a newbie, and totally missed all of the CAS instructions, so we kind of guessed it. We ran most of the rally on 2 cylinders, and didn't have a functioning mechanical speedo / odo, so were going off of the navigator's phone, which was fun.

I did achive my 3 goals (Don't flip the car, Finish the rally, Don't come last), and since I'm gunning to be top 5 in the championship this year, we did well, got some championship points, and learned alot!

So, the events leading up to this debacle....

The 1.8L Brighton transmission was very much so not loving life, mainly due to the front passenger side bearing (the one that suspends the front differential) taking a complete and absolute ****. When the axle stub has about an 1/8 inch of play in all directions, it's bad XP

So, for the rally, myself and my navigator (also my mechanic) decided that it would be pertinent to swap the trans, and at the same time install the suretrac, because why not.

Original plan was to run the 4.44 RA transmission, but that is a pull style trans, and I have an existing (what looks to be) a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch, and was in no mood to shell out the cash to get a new flywheel and clutch setup, not to mention converting to hydraulic clutch as well as pull, and all of the components associated with doing that (master + slave cylinder, pedal set, stupid odds and ends etc etc).

So, step 1, drain the fluid, drop the trans.


Yep, the transmission has definitely seen better days. The fluid looked like unicorn blood, although there were no large chunks, just a fine particulate throughout. I am guessing that the ring and pinion gears on the front diff weren't quite aligned correctly once the bearing left the party, causing the carnage.

So, we got all the way through the un-install process, and ended up hitting a few road blocks.

Being a 1997 subaru that has spent it's life in the wonderful salt covered land of Ontario, Canada, EVERY SINGLE BOLT WAS A BITCH

Most of them came out with some heat and the Air-gun, but the lower of the two rear bolts that hold the front contorl arms on took about 45 minutes each to extract, which involved as follows... Heat to red hot, shove a candle into it to get the wax up into the threads, tighten slightly, and then try to get out as much as possible. Note that our Ingerol Rand air impact gun couldn't move it at all, we used a 3/4in breaker bar with a 5 ft cheater bar, and were doing the old medieval times "raise the drawbridge" round and round under the car, back and forth and back and forth.

Eventually we got those bolts out, and we thought we were in the clear, all that was left were the 4 bolts holding the one piece transmission cross member on (never seen this before, I assume old school subi 1.8L things?)
But fate would not have it, on the last bolt the captive nut decided to take us for a ride......

Not having another cross member, and zero access to cut the bolt from underneath, we hacked into the unibody to try and get a vice grip on the captive nut, apply heat and candle wax, and then attempt to extract. No luck.

At this point we have been working on the car for over 10 hours (we work after my buddies shop closes, so start time was at 8PM, we worked up to 8AM), but I needed to get to work, so we popped a few bolts and the axles back in (to get the car roll-able), and pushed it out of the shop to be attacked the next night. I took the bus home and borrowed the parent's car to get to work and back.

The next day on the way home from work I grabbed a turbo 3-piece transmission cross-member off of a friend who had a spare, new bolts from Rona, (Rear 4 bolts M10 x 1.25 x 30 Front 2 bolts M12 x 1.25 x 44), locking and regular washers, and then returned to the shop

We got the car back into the almost dis-assembled state as before, and then sawzalled the old subframe out of the car, and then zipcut the bolt off, and hammered the unibody sorta back into shape.

This was the result of our labors:



Great, so now the transmission dropped out easily, and we prepped the new one for insertion.

The new one is out of a '07 impreza 2.5i, so we had to tap one of the holes in the transmission to accommodate the starter, and open up one of the starter holes to accommodate the larger bolt that would hold it on. (the older phase 1 ej22t only holds the transmission on with 4 bolts, and the starter bolts thread into the transmission bell-housing.)



We then moved the pivot over to convert from the hydraulic to cable style clutch fork, and everything else was plug and play-ish.

We had no luck extracting the speedo cable from the old trans, so we simply cut it and decided to find a solution for that issue another day (as I want to go to the '02 wrx setup for the ecu, a digital speedo reading would work better for me).



Now, trans out, diff out, time to get the new stuff back in.
It went without too too much hassle, other than the axles not fitting into the suretrac (this was because the 1.8L open diff on this car is one that I've never seen before (has the same style adjustment faces as the front diff on the trans, and different axles), but I'll get regular r160 axles and install the diff another night). We finished up the work at 10am the next day, so basically this 6 hour job took a total of over 22 hours to do.

The result of all this is that we had ZERO sleep from Wednesday morning to Friday night. And then we rallied for 8 hours on Saturday!

YAY CANADA!!!

We didn't get a chance to adjust the clutch cable until the next day, but once we had that sorted, we were on the way to the rally!



Unfortunately, on our way to the rally, the car began to act sporadically...

Video : https://webmshare.com/play/VnmAV

After some diagnosing, my injectors on cylinder #1 and #4 (passenger front, driver rear), were locking up and not firing for some reason, without reason, intermittently.

This meant that we were running the rally with 2,3,or 4 cylinders at any given time. The funny part was that when it ran on 2, the afr's would read super lean (obviously), but the car would pop, bang, and shoot 2-3 foot fireballs out of the exhaust. I assume the car tried to compensate for the overall lean state by running the other 2 cylinders exceptionally rich.

We still ran the rally, drove over a total of 500km that day, without 2 cylinders and without a speedometer / odometer, and at the end we felt awesome to finish at all XP

The transmission is a peach by the way, best 5 speed I've had in any of my subaru's by far. The extra-S fluid also works amazingly well at low temps compared to the Motul stuff I'm used to using, I don't need to drive 15km to get the trans up to temp and shifting nicely etx. OEM FTW!

So, at this point I'm at the stage where I need to install / clean injectors, so it may be time to get those '07 STI injectors I have laying around cleaned and installed, as well as the '02 wrx ecu and related bits.

Next rally is on January 28th, hopefully I can sort all these issues out before then, I have a digi-key order placed for some way to sort out the speedometer, I think a lot of you will approve with the solution . Time to get the soldering iron and Dremel out!
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Last edited by Todviper; 01-09-2017 at 11:08 AM..
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:48 AM   #29
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The extra-S fluid also works amazingly well at low temps compared to the Motul stuff I'm used to using, I don't need to drive 15km to get the trans up to temp and shifting nicely etx. OEM FTW!
What kind of temps are we talking here?
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:06 PM   #30
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What kind of temps are we talking here?
In my forester, I had the Motul Gear 300 / Motulgear , in both my 5 and 6 speed. at below like -10*C, I would feel a hell of a drag on the driveline, and below -20, I wouldn't be able to get into 1st at all in the 5 speed, and barely into 1st on the 6 speed. Took about 15-20km to warm up to full temp and super smoothness.

With the extra-S , it goes into 1st no problems even when -20, and takes like 1-2km to warm up.

The motul is full synthetic and the extra-S is a mix I think?

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