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Flat6forlife's '98 RS, EZ30 incoming
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:51 AM   #31
Flat6ForLife
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Id check the ground strap for the starter, and ground at the battery. Bad ground can cause relay to click and starter not to go. If you decide to sell the r160 surtrac I might be interested.
Grounds are fine unfortunately. I'm really hoping its the starter at this point but I don't believe it will be.

PM me if you're really interested in that diff.

I grabbed some friends this morning and pop started the RS. Only took a few tries. It ran alright but the P1507 popped up again. Certain that has to do with why it won't start and I won't be able to do anything about that while I'm up here at school.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:04 PM   #32
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Well, I never fixed the code but I gave it a band-aid fix for now. Instead of taking the dash out and chasing down wires in the cold, I just wired up a push button start. When I finish this semester I'll be pulling most of the car apart to change a bunch of suspension pieces anyway, so I'll be taking the dash out then as well. So now I'm on the hunt for a clean manual dash harness out of an RS or a Forester. Not sure if an L harness is the same and I haven't found any evidence to tell me it is or it isn't so I've ignored those in my search. If anyone knows if they are compatible or not, please let me know.

As far as parts go I've only picked up little pieces. A white DCCD thumb-wheel and some S shaped endlinks that'll hopefully let me use my RS swaybar with the GD lat links. Still need to pick up a controler as well, I'm pretty much set on a MapDCCD unit at this point.

Just clicked over 122,000 miles today too. Heading down to Vineland, NJ for an Ultimate tournament, so if anyone is in the area, look out for me.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:30 PM   #33
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Not sure what to do at this point as it seems I'm at a bit of a crossroad.

When I pull the car apart in a few weeks to do all of the suspension and drivetrain stuff, I'll be pulling the dash out to fix some wiring. I'd like to find a clean manual bulkhead harness to replace the converted automatic one that is in it currently. The stock 2.5 in it now has a miss that won't seem to go away, and a P0400 that won't go away. I'm getting a little tired of putting money into into the 25D seeing as I'd like to get a little more power through the wheels. At the same time, I have a V6 V-Limited cluster waiting to go into it that I'd have to custom make a harness for and figure out the VSS signal for.

So these are my options:

1) There is a wrecked '98 RS shell with its harness merged to an '04 WRX about an hour from me as well as some other bits for a swap. Along with that, I found a wrecked Bugeye WRX complete, that supposedly runs for $500, as it looks like it might've been rolled. Together, they'd make for a complete swap. Though I'd still have to rewire for the cluster harness and VSS. At the same time I think plain EJ205 swaps are a little boring in theory, though the one WRX I drove felt great.

2) At the same time, someone on FB is selling a complete harness from an '00 RS. Complete from the tailights to headlights for $300. I know I'd have to switch to a 251, but other than the new engine needed, it'd be a plug-in afair, albeit a tedious one. It'd also make it a lot easier to find parts for.

3) Otherwise, I just search for the correct harness, try to deal with the misfire and EGR Flow code, and wait till it blows up or not.

If I did end up with a swap, I'd keep it as stock as possible. I'd still be DD/tracking the car and try to up the reliability of it before I did anything power related. My dad would like me to keep it NA and I trust his judgement on anything automotive related as he rarely wring when it comes to this stuff. I will have a beater to drive around while the RS is laid up for a while so that won't be an issue. I'd like to swap it but something keeps telling me not to. Anyone care to offer their sage advice?

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Old 05-01-2017, 03:13 PM   #34
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I'd personally stay away from any roll overs. if not, make sure you check for glitter in the oil. They tend to get oil starved upside-down. I'm trying to get as much suspension and brake stuff sorted before a swap comes up for my gf. But again that's me. If your gonna do a full drive train swap it may be best to just do it all from one car, seems alot easier and cheaper.
I was wondering if your 8in groundcontrol springs are as low as they'll go or is there more drop in them? I'm torn between them and a pair of 7in. I figure I'll want the 8in all the way down or the 7 all the way up. Not sure whats gonna work better.
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:31 AM   #35
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for monies/power..

buy a complete 22e (maf) and toss it in. its a plug and play affair and will run on the 25d ecu. then boost it with subachad up and downs, and wrx stuff. you can run up to about 11 psi on it without tuning a thing.

then just have iwire make you a harness to jump from oe harness to the ver6 cluster.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:06 AM   #36
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I'd personally stay away from any roll overs. if not, make sure you check for glitter in the oil. They tend to get oil starved upside-down. I'm trying to get as much suspension and brake stuff sorted before a swap comes up for my gf. But again that's me. If your gonna do a full drive train swap it may be best to just do it all from one car, seems alot easier and cheaper.
I was wondering if your 8in groundcontrol springs are as low as they'll go or is there more drop in them? I'm torn between them and a pair of 7in. I figure I'll want the 8in all the way down or the 7 all the way up. Not sure whats gonna work better.
I could still drop the car if I really wanted too, but I would kill any decent amount of suspension travel. You'd be riding on the bumpstops if you went any lower I imagine.

As far as the WRX goes, the seller may say it runs, but if I were to check it out, I would make sure there weren't any knocks or bad noises while it ran. I'd just be doing the engine anyway, I'll be doing a bunch of drivetrain work this summer, so the swap would just be added on top.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:10 AM   #37
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for monies/power..

buy a complete 22e (maf) and toss it in. its a plug and play affair and will run on the 25d ecu. then boost it with subachad up and downs, and wrx stuff. you can run up to about 11 psi on it without tuning a thing.

then just have iwire make you a harness to jump from oe harness to the ver6 cluster.
I had the same idea about the cluster harness, but have yet to ask them. I imagine it shouldn't be a problem. I like the idea and simplicity of bootsing the 22e but I'm not sure how it would hold up to track days. Then again I was slightly worried about my 25d, but it ran like a champ and is still going.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:49 PM   #38
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Ordered my MapDCCD a few days ago. What I would assume are the center differential bearings started whining and got quite loud so I need to put in the DCCD asap. Hopefully that'll be next weekend unless someone with prior experience want to come help me do it this weekend in my driveway .

I sandblasted and repaired the curb rash on the BBS last Sunday, so they should be done sometime soon as well. Once those are done, I can put in the STi Trailing and lateral arms.

I should also be buying a manual dash harness out of a '98 OBS on Monday. Other than it being a four dour, I'm almost certain it should work in my coupe. I know that'll be a bit of a pain to change but I'm getting really tired of dealing with the shoddy converted auto harness.

Other than that there isn't much to update. I'm just waiting on parts and time at this point.
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:22 PM   #39
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The DCCD is in and so is the wiring harness. The car finally knows its a manual. Though, it wasn't without some hiccups on the way.

One of the door plugs for the door harness was completely corroded and the radio harness had been spliced for an aftermarket unit so those had to be cut and soldered with new stuff. I solved the no start with key issue by putting in a new ignition switch, simple as that. The DCCD wasn't too difficult to get on but having a lift and air tools made it a whole lot easier. Even with stock power, the power split difference was noticed. I have yet to put the MapDCCD in yet so for now it stays open at 35/65. I would like to find another 3.9 R160 to put my Suretrac into so I don't have the car laid up for a while putting it in the one in the car now.

Unfortunately, I'm still battling some engine codes. P0400, P1507 and P1101 to be exact. I'm praying that the P1507 and P1101 are being caused by a bad NPS. After that I have no idea what could cause either of those. The P0400 I've pretty much narrowed down to either the sensor or solenoid. My inspection was up in April so I'm hoping those are the fixes, otherwise I'll be completely lost.

I had the BBS refinished in gold and put them on the car. They look SWEET! I'll have pictures up once I find the wire for my camera.
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:30 PM   #40
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A new NPS, '04 STi Steering rack, and rebuilt steering pump are on their way. Haven't decided if I'm going to get the L&E coupler or just fab my own. I have all of the tools to do it, its just finding the time.

While I'm driving, I can smell burning gear oil, so I'm gonna have to check that out. I'm pretty sure its the axle seals but I ordered a new drain plug gasket to see if that would stop it first. I wanted to flush the trans anyway.

Also, If anyone has a black seat belt buckle laying around, I'd be happy to take it off of your hands. Mine stopped working a while back and I really should put a new one in so my passengers dont have to sit in the back anymore .
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