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Homebuilt GC8 for Time Attack
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:12 AM   #81
Ted
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I really don't see that outflowing a $100 ebay manifold. Maybe crack resistance wise, but thats about it.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:43 AM   #82
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Seems a little on the restrictive side, no?
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:57 AM   #83
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it depends on the wall thickness. it may flow the same as an ebay but better headers with thicker wall retain heat and sound much better. that said offer him $50. Sounds like he's charging the Island tax
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Old 07-08-2016, 11:43 AM   #84
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I believe he's asking 350 EUR for that...
Probably better stick with stock cast ones and concentrate on doing something instead of buying crap parts )))
Thanks everyone!

Build is moving slowly, I managed to finish all suspension preparation stuff and now just need to bolt some parts to the car. Some bits are already on, just need to torque everything to specs.

Had a lot of issues with car being swaped previously... Incorrect bolts and screwed threads everywhere. Like all 4 bolt threads for gearbox mount where ruined. Had to helicoil it from under the car with gearbox on single jack and no mounts installed.
It appeared that my fuel tank wasn't strapped properly. One strap was too short and was bolted to subframe instead of body on one end. Other strap wasn't torqued down on both ends...
Well. Now neweley painted rear subframe is in and locked with whiteline lock bolts, diff is in, fuel tank strapped with two correct length straps, new gearbox group N mount is bolted to cleaned and painted gearbox crossmember and installed. New driveshaft bolts arrived (ordered visually identical kit for 240Z) because it was really mismatch of different shitty bolts.

Tried to pressure test brakes and looks like nothing leaks, although seems like i still need to bleed them a bit more.
BTW, after speaking with my friend who recently bought caged EVO for rally-sprints and hill climbs, I ordered a booster delete kit. I don't know yet if I will install it now because after I finish the car I don't know if I will be able to pass inspection to have car road legal with it. But I really want to try it at some point.
It's really not helping that it's again freaking hot here. In farenheit it's three digit temps for several weeks already... Thinking about the idea to get the engine inside the house for valve shims. ))) Wife will not be happy though...
anyway, ordered some small missing bits like TPS sensor and new clutch pilot bearing (btw, if anyone knows if it can be installed without removing flywheel - please let me know).
Basically I need to adjust the valves, seal engine, and start dropping everything inside. This will be the plan for next few weeks... Unfortunately, it's moving really slow...
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Old 07-08-2016, 12:50 PM   #85
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the pilot bearing just slide into the flywheel. Theres a tiny step that stops it before the crank. getting old one out is easier with flywheel off
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:11 AM   #86
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Moving slowly with the build. Front arms install took much more effort than I expected. Due to ALK rear bushing front bushing were misaligned and getting bolts in it was a really painful experience. I wonder if some offset bushing should have been used in this case but since I had whiteline ALK and Whiteline front bushing I thought that they got that covered. Just checked their site and they don’t have any special front bushing options to install with ALK, so it should be fine.

Also got my hands on fender roller and decided to test fit my new tyres.
New 235s on the left, old 215s the right.

Before fender rolling:

After:

Right side after rolling:

Looks like tyres will fit inside the arches just fine

I don’t know if I’m going to get wider rims.. 7.5 seems to be narrow for 235s, but not as bad as I thought it will be.

Still need to torque some stuff to specs under the car but transmission and suspension is now intact, so I decided to move with engine.

Got cams out and cleaned surfaces for new valve cover gaskets.
All buckets and shims re-arranged for correct clearance specs out and prepared to be installed.

It was Saturday night. Had to work in the evening because during the day it’s to windy and engine will be full of dust. And heat… Weather was so hot that next day I decided to move to air conditioned area, which turned out to be this:

That’s how you can tell that one’s wife left him home alone for a couple of weeks ))
I wasn’t using kitchen anyway…
Ok, I’m joking, it’s blocking the fridge. It’s in the living room now
Today I took cams and cam caps to my mechanic for his advice on strange spots I found on journals.

Whatever this is, it doesn’t seem to affect dimensions or surface of journal so we decided that it will be ok.
So, soon (hopefully today) I’ll put this thing together with new seals and gaskets and from there it would be assembly and wiring.
Have some time to work on the car now, so I hope more updates will follow
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Old 07-25-2016, 11:21 AM   #87
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looks like plasticgauge

Id stay away from air to water intercoolers. Your water will warm up fast. I run a FMIC, and have a GM IAT in my intake manifold. My cruising intake temps air usually just a few degrees over ambient, if i sit and idle i can climb a few more degress but it drops right back down. on a 30 day i might see 40 temps after sitting, cruising I'm 33-34 and at wot it will only climb 1 or 2 degrees during the pull. I actually start pulling timing out of my advance map for temps over 40

If more people kept the IAT's in the intake, there would be better data on this. But i think for hassle and performance, you cant beat a fmic

log for example, its in farenheit though 3rd to 4th gear pull, hot as balls out
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:14 PM   #88
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Got myself GM IAT as well, should arrive soon. Will be running mafless on ESL ECU
I mkow than frontmounts are quite effective, especially for road racing stuff. I just want to try WTA intercooler setup for some reason, we'll see how it goes. Although i will probably start it on stock topmount timewise. But! I'm going to log/test it to see the difference.
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Old 08-01-2016, 01:17 AM   #89
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I was putting everything together when I found out that I missing rubber grommets for valve covers and cam seals. I got them ordered but probably I lost them somewhere at home. Because I kinda remember they where somewhere here. I turned all the stuff in the house upside down trying to find them, but nothing...

Now need to order and wait, but that's not the worst thing happened.
I kind of put right head together because I had four new grommets and re-used two old ones until new parts will arrive and decided to install the cams in left one so I will only have to put the cover when I get the parts.
Guess what? When I was trying to torque down the final cam for final check of the clearances, one of the bolts on front cap snapped...
I was following manual and using torque wrench. Now I have to drill it out somehow. I can't take engine anywhere because it's fully assembled and it's in my hall. And I don't trust myself with handheld drill in this case either... Need some options to consider. Any ideas?

Pics of RH side before final assembly, found some signs of old repairs/welding on oil galleries.

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Old 08-08-2016, 12:51 AM   #90
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Got it out! really happy about it.
Here it is on it's way out:

All the tools used:


I used piece of 6 mm o.d. aluminium tube that fits nice in the hole as a guide to make sure i'm centered with the center punch. Added some masking tape over the tube to fine-tune the clearance. Also I got simple square-drilling tool from local hardware shop. Again, used bigger piece of tube fitted inside 6mm hole on the tool for added accuracy. Magnet with remains of the bolt attached where used to remove shavings from the hole while drilling.
used automatic center punch, then 1 mm drill bit to start nice hole in the center of the bolt, then 2.5 mm and 3 mm drill bits and finally, after I got nice hole 4-5 mm deep, I used left-hand threaded extractor that got it out pretty easily
It all took about 20 min to complete.
New bolts are ordered, will probably change all of them on this head.

By the way, on these older style heads all cam cap bolts are the same. Manual says to torque them all to 20 Nm, but on some cams when I torque caps nearest to the pulleys it becomes substantially harder to turn the cam..
It still turns fine, but others are like free spinning until cam lobes start hitting the valves.
My torque wrench starts at 20 Nm, so it's hard to say completely accurate, but before I torque these caps to 20 Nm from let's say half of that, cams take much less effort to spin. Maybe I should leave these cap torqued to 10 Nm? I really don't like the difference in resistance to spin when they torqued down to specs...
Another thing is these front caps according to the manual require application of sealant. I wonder if adding sealant will make them spin better when torqued down, because for now I had no sealant applied because it was assembly to measure valve clearances.
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