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Homebuilt GC8 for Time Attack
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:02 AM   #41
Michaeld
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Great build thread! I love reading about these home built time attack cars and what all is done to them. Got plans to rebuild my Type RA in similar fashion when I get the parts back stateside next year. That MapDCCD is awesome! I'm glad to see something that works so well with the older versions with all the data logging and sensor inputs it has. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see how it progresses.
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Old 10-13-2015, 06:01 AM   #42
-mav-
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Yep, MapDCCD is really great. It helped a lot to make it trough that 1:13 barrier, you can really feel how it works and see it in the log Too bad I had not enough track time to play with different maps/strategies.
As I said, my tranny/diff in coupe are quite noisy, well above the level you wand it to be in street/daily car and nobody wants to rebuild them here... Everybody just saying to keep it until it blows and then replace. So, if i would ever get involved in rebuild/restoration of the coupe I planned to swap all transmission from my coupe into the track car to have DCCD/R180/big hubs...
And then just get 6 speed or fresh 5 speed tranny for the coupe...
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:00 AM   #43
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I know all about a noisy DD ha. I've got the R180 swapped already with a Cusco RS LSD and subframe locking bolts, but with JDM bugeye STI 5x100 hubs. I love the short 5S from the RA though and would rather build that then swap a 6S. Plus it has DCCD so that's already there for me.

Your coupe is gorgeous by the way.
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:37 AM   #44
-mav-
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Thanks!
Managed to make first connections yesterday. Now two rear lines are connected together via T-fitting. Once I get this T connected to bias valve my rear lines will be complete.


Flaring lines appeared to be not an easy job. In fact every second flare I did was a failure. And since every line has two ends, 50% success rate was really not enough
I really want to think that problem is not my skill but rather the fact that I bought one of the cheaper ebay kits like this:

It does the job, but it's really important to keep stuff alligned and squared when you press it and pipe itself straigt when you cut it or fix it in the tool... And it's really hard to achieve because of tool design. Heating the tube kind of helped, plus I improved a bit after failing 3-4 times. Time will tell... Hope it will not leak.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:51 AM   #45
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That's real good info to know. I need to upgrade my small V2 brake MC to the larger later model one to really push my brakes like I want them. I too will have to make/run new hard lines so I'm excited to see how this all turns out for you.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:56 PM   #46
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Sub'd
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:23 AM   #47
-mav-
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Well. Tried to mout brake booster and mc to see how it all fits together. Also installed actual brake pressure sensor to see how it's harness connector will clear solenoid bracket. Here is the result:




Looks like for now it clears fine, but one big question remains. How to route lines from MC to bias valve? They need to enter from the top of the valve and only oblious way to do this is to route them abovethe valve. But I don't like it since 99% it won't look clean, might be at the same height if not higher than max fluid level in MR reservoir and probably will mess up with the adjustment knob...
And there is not much space on the bottom either to route lines there because I need to connect three lines to the ouput pots and squeeze them between the valve and wheel well. Not even saying that pressure sensor will be in the way if I somehow get the lines under the bracket from the RH wing side...

Will be trying to solve this today.
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:13 PM   #48
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Rear line is ready. Sort of. Left some space for the front one. Pics are self explanatory.



Whatever you do, use the right tools. I'm getting tired of this....

Last edited by -mav-; 10-19-2015 at 03:15 PM..
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:00 PM   #49
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Not much done with the car since last update...
Took Type-R for a spin to the track, basically in full stock specs, except for DCCD controller. Made a video just to remember how it all works
Became a bit rusty behind the wheel...
anyway, it was fun!

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Old 02-22-2016, 02:11 AM   #50
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So, it's been a while since my last post.
First round of 2016 TA is scheduled on March 12, and I'm quite sure that I'll miss it

Couple of recent weekends turned out to be quite productive even with weather trying to mess things up.
I almost finished with brake lines but got kind of short on supplies, so ordered more line tube... Basically I still need to finish making two front lines and assemble the system.
Here is longest line 50% completed using original one as a guide. Still needs to be cut to length and final bends, as well as second flare...

I wonder if this was a good idea since it's not 100% as OEM for sure, so I expect fitment issues. Maybe it would be better to make it from scratch. Engine was in the bay at the moment, so I thought it's a good idea to copy original line...

My fake Advans are not clearing brembos Just a tiny bit..

Major disappointment since I didn't plan to by another set of rims...
Temporary fixed by adding cheap 5 mm spacer, but I don't like it. Looks like I will end up with some Rota or JR budget stuff, needed 17x8 rims for 235s anyway..

Engine is out! It was first time for me doing anything like this (messing up the car that bad ) so it was a challenge. Everything went smooth and it looks like I haven't even broke anything.


Whoever did this last time did it pretty rough. One of the dowel pins is missing, in two bottom holes bolts are used instead of studs, so I can't get them out from bellhousing without removing CV joints, and some of different length bolts are kind of mixed up...


Will try to get some hardware to mount the engine to the stand and get valve covers out today.
The idea is to clean everything, check valve clearances and adjust it if it's possible, replace bunch of seals and gaskets, replace all cracked and worn hoses, install front entry turbo, yellow injectors, connect fuel rails in parallel and convert it to be controlled with V4 ECU.
I still have most of the parts to convert intake to V4, but as I started pulling parts from the shed I found that some stuff is missing.. Like throttlebody Who knows what else. So it's one more decision to make - should I convert it to V4 manifold or not?..
For now I stripped V4 intake, got yellow injectors out (what a PITA!) and sent them for cleaning.. There were plenty of metal shavings in the manifold (after snapped valve on old engine) - another risk of putting it on the car...

Anyway, it's good to be back! Got tired of watching it under dusty cover.
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