with -2.5 degrees of camber on all corners there seems to be more space available.
Managed to get 4.5 degrees of caster as well, steering now feels heavy and racecar-ish )))
Also I finally dialed in my 3d printer and made myself a string alignment system to quickly check toe myself.
That took some time, but now I feel I can print stuff quick enough with more or less predictable quality, and I'll probably use it more from now on.
3Bar GM map sensor is installed, showing about +0.05 bar now, need a bit more time dialing it in ECU
Next is wiring. Car has a bit of wiring mess under the dash left from original swap and me installing gauges and wideband.. It's a bit scary because I feel it may immobilize car again for a few months if I'll not finish it in one blow, but I got to do it someday...
For street car that works fine )
This year I expect that competition will be pretty tough.. and my goals are really optimistic ))
I don't think I can win anything in horsepower arms race, so my focus in general will be on learning, tuning and getting as much as possible from the package I already have. So, I plan a lot of experiments with suspension and since almost any change in ride height or camber will affect toe, I decided to invest some time and effort in strings system.
need also to spend some time managing this process, maybe make some kind of logbook/worksheets to leave comments for different setups, some calcuated fields and other stuff..
Basically the system I made looks like any other string kit available. In fact, all components of the system are in the photo in my post above. By the way, it took three or four hours to print those parts
And that's probably about 1/4 of components needed...
I got one one 8 hour print and one 10 hour print sessions and rest of the parts (around 30%) were test items from previous iterations that were "good enough".
I made all components myself from scratch and personally I think that it would be easier if I had a welder - just weld three pieces of square tube together to form three 3*90deg fixtures, drill holes and weld nuts on them to screw something in to fix tubes sliding inside them.
Dimensions are affected by materials that you have locally. I found aluminium tubes in hardware store nearby, namely 20*20 mm square tubes and 16mm round ones. That's it!
I don't know how durable it will be, to me the weak link is glued connection of three square pieces that form each fixture.
Quality and strength of any 3d printed part depends on your skill with 3d printing and understanding of the process
It just so happened that to me this was more accessible than welder and I wanted some practice with CAD
Stock pan for now. It wasn't an issue on 215 tyres. Not saying that I'm not worried about that, but I've seen cars faster than mine running stock sump as well.
This is one of there reasons I want standalone ECU to monitor things like oil pressure.