Homebuilt GC8 for Time Attack - Page 16 - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
 
Private Support i-Trader Ratings Become a Vendor Rules for VendorsModsUsers Contact
Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
gc8 RSS GC8 Facebook Subaru GC8 Twitter Subaru YouTube Channel Subaru Sticker
 
Login below or Register Now
Register Mark Forums Read FAQ Advertise
Go Back   Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com > >
Homebuilt GC8 for Time Attack
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-03-2018, 01:01 PM   #151
bue car
#32
 
bue car's Avatar
 
Fav Mod: Which car?
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Torrance, CA
Trader Rating: (173)
Posts: 11,746
Default

Looks good in pics. Let's see what life has to say
__________________
Save RS25! Say no to XenForo
bue car is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-14-2018, 01:32 AM   #152
-mav-
2.2L
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cyprus
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 147
Default

Tried to mount it like that, don't like how it turned out.

Basically have to either revise the bracket so hose will be tucked in crease of subframe or try something else...
It's not the lowest point of the car, but that loop facing down and edge of subframe pointing against the hose... This is asking for trouble.

I had straight, 45 deg and 90 deg stainless fittings for this project.. Ordered some 120 degree fittings from UK, should be here next week. Managed to find only aluminium ones, but I thing it would be fine. Will try to route it in more conventional way.
By the way, PTFE hoses and fitting are much easier to work with. Compared to regular rubber ss braided ones I had for fuel system, these are much easier to assemble.
-mav- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2018, 02:11 AM   #153
-mav-
2.2L
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cyprus
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 147
Default

Spent some time working on car this weekend.
120 deg fitting arrived, so I finally came up with this high pressure hose routing:


Hose is going up over clutch master and then mounts on RH frame rail with OEM bolt. Long and high, but for me it looks the safest way possible.
Initially I tried to rout it right after the uppipe but then it was interfering with steering shaft and uppipe was really close.
Will probably use cluch master heatshield mount bolt as second mounting point as well.
Reservoir is below the pump and below this high pressure loop, hope it will be OK.. It looks like that's the same height in relation to the pump as in newage cars anyway. If there will be any issues with high pressure hose height, I believe I can route it along the firewall a bit lower, but for now it's easiest way to mount it securely...
Finally got most of engine bay components mocked up to check general layout of intake and other stuff:

Idle control valve port on turbo intake pipe is slightly hitting bonnet when closed... Probably because of intake spacers, although they are only 10 mm, I believe... Not that bad, probably will leave it as is just keeping eye on it.
Still need to get 45 deg elbow for intake, finish with crankcase venting, cooling plumbing and exhaust and try to start this Frankenstein ))

Last edited by -mav-; 02-26-2018 at 02:23 AM..
-mav- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2018, 09:40 AM   #154
bue car
#32
 
bue car's Avatar
 
Fav Mod: Which car?
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Torrance, CA
Trader Rating: (173)
Posts: 11,746
Default

Hope it works!
__________________
Save RS25! Say no to XenForo
bue car is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2018, 01:44 AM   #155
-mav-
2.2L
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cyprus
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 147
Default

Had absolutely no time and motivation to work on car
I mean.. I had some time and I had huge motivation, but these two never came together, so almost nothing was done. Although I managed to find what I think is good routing for high pressure PS hose finally. Hope I'll do something this weekend and make some pics..

Last week went took my daily car to the track joined by another Type-R GC8 that was preparing to next event.
Was trying to catch him up for several laps, overheated tyres a bit and generally was too excited to get a gap on him after we finally met, so got off the track...
Nothing too exciting, it's completely stock car after all now (except for MapDCCD), on 215 Federals RS-R. Stock car is really fun though. Rotates really nice, tail happy and fun!
Mapdccd is great too, changing maps really helps to control the car.
Spend most of the time in most "fun" auto mode though
-mav- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2018, 11:59 PM   #156
bue car
#32
 
bue car's Avatar
 
Fav Mod: Which car?
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Torrance, CA
Trader Rating: (173)
Posts: 11,746
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by -mav- View Post
Had absolutely no time and motivation to work on car
I mean.. I had some time and I had huge motivation, but these two never came together, so almost nothing was done.
True story
__________________
Save RS25! Say no to XenForo
bue car is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2018, 02:56 AM   #157
-mav-
2.2L
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cyprus
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 147
Default

The time has come to revive this old journal ))
Life made it's corrections to my plans and I have to move to another house. Or rather to the apartment, so I can't work on the car on my driveway anymore. I count this as positive change, because having car by the house didn't actually helped me much putting it together in past three years.
Now car has to move, and I'm committed to make it move on it's own power.
I rented two car garage nearby to be able to isolate this kind of activities from my living space because situation with tools and spare parts all over the living room was getting out of control recently...
Engine is assembled, oil is in, trying to start it now... Found some glitches in wiring that I made. My merge of v2 and v4 wiring harnesses didn't gone as planned. I finished patch harness, but car refused to start on first try. I started checking signals on ECU pins and found that something is sending 12v to sensors ground pin..
On older 4-plug ECU there were several separate ground wires for different sensors, on newer 3-plug almost all grounds and shields are on single pin. And it has 12v now (
For now I isolated this problem to MAP sensor and temp sensor grounds having 12v and it seems to come from dashboard.
Further investigations got me thinking that I probably messed up temp sensors wiring because on V2 temp sensor (1-pin one?) is going to dash and ECU at the same time while on V4 dash and ecu use separate sensors... I also need to confirm that V2 has two temp sensors because having some conflicting wiring diagrams not helping either... My V2 ECU diagram shows only 2-pin sensor, but dash diagram shows grounded 1-pin sensor that is shared by dash and ECU (and same pin used as in case of 2-pin sensor on ECU diagram)... Unfortunately my old crossover pipe is already somewhere in the box in new garage.
Anyway, hope to solve it soon and hope it's the problem keeping car from starting. Because car needs to drive to its new home by the end of this week in any case.

Last edited by -mav-; 12-11-2018 at 03:05 AM..
-mav- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2018, 06:54 AM   #158
-mav-
2.2L
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cyprus
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 147
Default

Problem fixed, but car is not starting... I just pulled one wire from connector under the dash that was supplying 12v to ECU pin as per correct V2 car schematic. In V4 car this specific wire was not present. ECU now works fine and responds to sensors (like rad fans kicked in when I forgot to plug in temp sensor).

So, what do we have today...
To run it needs compression, fuel and spark.
Compression seems to be there - I can feel it from cranking engine manually and by the sound starter makes.
For fuel and spark we need ECU... Here comes the fun part.
ECU is stock 3-plug 1S ECU for 440cc injectors, and some VF turbo, I believe. Right what I have in car now.

In any case, my other car being stock V4 STi works on this ECU flawlessly. In fact, it really helps that I can switch parts back and forth between the cars to test anything.

All the chassis harness is stock V2 except for ignitor deleted because I converted car back in the days to run newage coils.
All the changes to adopt wiring harness to another ECU are done in separate patch harness.
Engine gas 6-tooth crank pulley, which I believe is what it needs - I couldn't remove crank sensor from my other car to confirm... Cam pulleys are also correct, (black plastic with 7 magnets) - I can't imagine that I messed up that bad and somehow put wrong ones or did that incorrectly.
I tested crank sensor wiring tapping signal wire with test light connected to 12v and fuel pump starts working with boost solenoid clicking after I stop. Similar things happen when I just crank the car, so I assume that crank sensor itself, it's wiring and ECU are working as intended.
Car has no maf sensor and map sensor is incorrect for this ECU (V2 and V4 are different, I planned to fix this later in ESL ECU or replace it with GM sensor) but I believe that it shouldn't affect startup because I stared black car on this ECU with both of them fully disconnected. Car just dies after 5 sec of working, I assume because cranking and starting routine is over. But starts perfectly.
Ignition is a bit customized, this ECU is meant to control coil pack with two channels, but car has newage COP ignition using all old COP wiring.
This mod is well documented and quite common - two coils are connected in parallel and I will check the wiring once again, but two of four pins of ignition control in original COP wiring are not changed at all, so I assume that in worst case if there's a problem, at least two cylinders should sort of fire up but it's not happening, there's no sign of any combustion events...
I also checked +12v at coils feed and it's ok, power is there (At least at ign on, probably need to check that at cranking)
I haven't done any checks for injectors yet. But wiring in general was checked several times, which doesn't mean that I couldn't miss something.
I have custom fuel lines with aeromotive FPR and pressure gauge showing around 3 bar, so some pressure is there.
I spend last week trying to sort it out and found couple of issues and oversights, but now is sort of "should be working", but it doesn't.
Maybe you can advise me something?
I need to confirm cam sensor signal and timing sync at ECU somehow. What is the best way to do it?
Also I plan to re-check wiring of ignition and injectors circuits but I don't feel any of them firing now. Will probably also take one coil out and put old spark plug in to see it better, maybe it's firing after all...
But something tells me issue may be no ECU sync.
I swapped cam sensors between cars and my other car starts every time without any problems, still need to try to start it with cam sensor disconnected just to check...
Also worth noting that fuel in the car is from 2015, but I tried adding 5 liters of this fuel to my other cars and I didn't noticed any changes. In one case other car had really low fuel lever so whatever I filled in definitely burns.. after that I considered that it's not worth draining fuel tank completely and I decided to try to start it as is.. Maybe it's worth adding up some fresh fuel? But again, considering that there are no slight signs of combustion events at all, I believe that problem is elsewhere...
-mav- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2018, 08:09 AM   #159
TerryJr
Experimenter
 
TerryJr's Avatar
 
Fav Mod: AAA Premier
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pittsburgh
Trader Rating: (0)
Posts: 3,824
Default

sorry man. i got no advice. Luck has always just been on my side with wiring

i would guess though that its MAF related. I doubt the ecu will run motor on map alone, especially if its the wrong map sensor
__________________
Why should we be paying to keep guy's like Chris Watts and Michael Glance alive?

Last edited by TerryJr; 12-12-2018 at 08:29 AM..
TerryJr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2018, 08:22 AM   #160
Ted
2.5L RS-T
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The Shire
Trader Rating: (3)
Posts: 5,159
Default

Lack of combustion event could very well be bad gas. Being as cold as it is up where I am, I have to deal with bad gas after a car sits for 6 months. Ethanol likes to collect moisture. Get 5-10gallons of good gas, a bottle of heat or any other moisture preventitive and dump that in the tank before trying to find a problem that doesn't exist. Crank it over a fair amount so you can pump all the nasty gas out of the rails and lines.

If it doesn't start then, pull your plugs and compression test it. Yes it sucks, but again, no need to chase a wiring problem if you have a few dead cylinders. Odds are good it isn't this as most low compression cars still fire on the good cylinders.

Assuming you have done both of those, back probe or stick a noid light on an injector. If you see a signal and they are not clogged carry on.

Pull a plug and a coil pack and ground it on the block, turn over and check for a spark.

As for the cam sensor, which should fire your injectors in this case, the best way to test this would be an oscilloscope. A multimeter will show a switching signal (depending on the tooth count ) but an o-scope would be more accurate.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
__________________
A three syllable word for thoughts too big for small minds
Ted is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright © 2019 VerticalScope Inc.
Designed & Powered by Domain Architect