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Homebuilt GC8 for Time Attack
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:56 AM   #91
TerryJr
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double check your torque specs, usually the bolts at the cam seal caps are smaller and require half the torque of the other 4 bolts per cam. And i remember my 96 heads, pretty much the same as yours having ALL smaller bolts so most cam specs online are going to be wrong

I hate torqueing those, these days i just hand snug them with a 3/8 rachet. I feel better when i can "feel" the threads on those tiny bolts. You almost need a 1/4 torque wrench for them
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:19 PM   #92
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Woot it's out!
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:59 PM   #93
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Curious to see your A/W setup for the street. I've read a lot of contradicting info regarding street driving and heat soak. Seems like there's varying degrees of success.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:29 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted View Post
Curious to see your A/W setup for the street. I've read a lot of contradicting info regarding street driving and heat soak. Seems like there's varying degrees of success.
Me too ) That's why I got three GM IAT sensors
But unfortunately it's long road to go based on my progress so far.. I wonder how many new generations of Impreza are going to be released before I finish this one ))))

Here comes the part when I wanted to add pic of the page in the manual that stated 20Nm torque for that bolts, but I can't find it. the only one I could find on this computer says 10Nm And it's proper manual for 96 with HLA heads.


Now I'm thinking what to do... the problem that I already had one cover installed and I don't want to open it now. Yesterday I re-torqued front cap on the cam that was moving slightly harder on that head because these front cap bolts are outside the cover and torqued down last in sequence. So I unscrewed them half-turn back and basically torqued them by hand until I'm comfortable that they are not loose and both cams now spin free without virtually any resistance until cams lobes come to the buckets.
Probably will leave them like this and torque other side to 10Nm..
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:32 PM   #95
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Well, I knew it was strange when I found 10 Nm instead of 20 in the manual I thought I was using for assembly... So I decided to get my hands on my "field" win X tablet I use when I work on cars to check that specific manual which is pinned on the taskbar. I was very confused when i realised it'sexactly the same file that I used to get this scheme above with 10 Nm torque specs.
Looking a bit more through the file I found this:


The manual looks like a solid one, not a compilation, but 10 Nm and 20 Nm specs are given in the same manual, in "Component parts" and "Service procedure" sections respectively.
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Old 08-10-2016, 02:10 PM   #96
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Not sure if this helps but I torqued my 205 cam caps to the FSM's "spec" and snapped the heads off.
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:48 AM   #97
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New bolts for cam caps finally arrived and the labeling on the head of the bolt is different.
old ones used to have "9" while new ones have "C". Also old ones used to be gold color and new ones are silver/chrome looking.
Well, at least dimensions are the same, they are OEM (p/n 808106180) and I have plenty of them now...
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:47 AM   #98
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Grade 9 to Carbon I think?
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:20 AM   #99
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10nm sounds right for all 6. look up a 97 head, they both sizes, 4 bigger bolts under the cover and the two outside bolts by cam gears were the smaller ones. on 96 heads, they were ll the smaller size
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:06 AM   #100
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Well, the progress on the build is embarrassingly slow. Still hardly can find any time to work on it and even engine standing in the middle of the living room is not helping.
Last couple of weeks I managed to spend about 20-30 min every other day to do something on the car and despite this being ridiculously insufficient to do something major, I managed to get couple of things sorted out.
First, all cams and covers are installed. I installed RH cam seals using 32 mm socket, but LH ones appeared to be tricky because my socket is not deep enough to get over the cam - on this side itís a bit longer. For one of LH seals I used second seal as additional extension, but to place the last one to itís final position I need to find something new. Basically this keeps me from putting all the timing bits on.
New water pump is installed, all front covers are cleaned from heavy PS fluid leak, managed to put together one good set of rubber seals for the covers from two engines.
Finally got my turbo from my other engine laying at friendís garage.
Itís VF28 and it was looking not as good as I expected.
All cartridge was covered in oil, but I hope itís just from bad drain pipe gasket, because it was worse at the bottom.


The worst surprise was aluminium particles I found in hot section

Thatís what your turbo gets when your valve snapsÖ

Rust from coolant line on the left, head and piston remains - on the right.
Well I hope that damage is not that bad, I couldnít get the housings out yet, both sides are stuckÖ But it spins fine, no shaft play, all blades look fine to me and grease on the inlet and outlet of the cold section makes me hope that seals may be fine as well, there just was some blowby issues on the old engine...


Anyway, gave it a gentle blast with brake cleaner to wash away the oil, and now it looks like this.

Still need to get the housings off, inspect the blades on hot side, clean cold side from oil residue
And put it back togetherÖ
I should have every gasket/o-rings to redo all the plumbing on the cartridge, but after failing to get any of the banjo bolts out I wonder maybe itís better to leave it as is and just replace the gasket on the drain pipeÖ
Another stopper is coolant drain pipe

20 years of doing itís job took a toll on it. Need to check the condition of this pipe on my other engine but when I took the turbo out I had to cut the coolant drain hose because I couldnít remove any side of the hose from itís pipe.. So, Iím not very optimisticÖ
Looks like not a big deal but from initial search I found these new for 50 bucks + shipping.. And 2-3 weeks delivery, because you knowÖ Island life Ö
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