Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

Mammary Fornicators Racing - TitsFucker #1

139K views 789 replies 38 participants last post by  bue car 
#1 · (Edited)
Well here it is, my Bucket List Build. Ever since my brother (ChicksDigWagons) put together an OBS-T back in 2002 I've been telling myself I would build a 'GC' before I kicked the bucket.

I live near Marquette, MI which is home to some of the best backwoods roads and trails in the country. The Lake Superior Pro Rally is run about an hour north of me and the purpose of this build is pure rally. I'm not looking to tear up the streets, just get to the trail.

Basic run down of the build:

Engine:

EJ257 703 Casting Block
Big Power SOHC Heads ( See Post #3) - 8.96:1 Compression ratio
P&L Motorsports Race Application Oil Pump
VF28 Turbo - Now Forced Performance 71HTA!
JDM Spec C TGV-less Intake manifold
8mm Phenolic Spacers
2013 Sti TMIC
AVO One Piece inlet
Walbro 255
Perrin Top Feed Fuel Rail Kit.
Modded OEM Injectors 820cc

Exhaust:


Ported Version 6 STi manifold
Grimmspeed Ceramic Coated crosspipe
Homemade Flanged EWG up-pipe
Tial 38mm EWG
Invidia Downpipe
Invidia N1 Exhaust
All components Heat Wrapped/Sprayed


Misc. Performance:


Megasquirt MS3-Pro with DIYBOB connector
Innovate LC2 Wideband 02
Zerosports Intercooler Splitter
All Group N mounts/bushings -outrigger bushings
CX Racing Radiator with fans and shroud.
Home Brew Grounding Kit
110 Amp Alternator Swap
Whiteline Transmission crossmember bushings
Beatrush rear differential support
Cusco Rear Subframe Brace

Drivetrain:


MY00 WRX R/A Limited Transmission (4.44, Close Ratio) with DCCD and Helical front LSD (TY754VB1EA)
Whiteline Front shifter bushing
Group-N rear shifter bushing
New OEM late model shifter joint
R180 Plated 4.44 Rear Diff
Factory JDM V6 DCCD Controller (for now)

Brakes:

Subaru 4/2 Pots from MY00 WRX R/A Limited
ABS Delete
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
03 WRX Master cylinder + proportioning valve

Suspension/Handling:

KYB AGXs
Group N Tophats
MY00 R/A Limited Springs
Aluminum Control Arms
Custom Aluminum front Sway bar endlinks
Audi a4 front endlinks in rear.
Whiteline Outrigger Bushings
Whiteline ALK
Subframe Lockdown Bolts
Solid Subframe Bushings
'dd Tuning' Fender Bracing
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
GC8 Carbon fiber Strut bar
Ebay Special rear Strut tower bar
19mm JDM Front Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings
20mm JDM Rear Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings




Tires/Wheels:


Tarmac/Travel - 17x8 +35 Speedline Twin 6 Spoke wearing TBD
Dirt Race/Rally - 15x6.5 Braid Winrace II wearing 195/60/15 Michelin Hard Compound Rally Tires
Winter/Ice Racing - 17x7 +35 Speedline ST2 6 Spokes wearing studded 235/45/17 Hankook i*Pike


Interior/Electronics:


V1/2 JDM STI Front and Rear Seats
Blue Type R limited shifter/stereo surround
JDM Version 6 Limited gauge cluster converted to MPH by G-ROM Cluster Flashing
Momo Prestige Mahogany/Leather Steering wheel
Nexus 7 Tablet for Audio/GPS/Shadowdash gauge display
Clarion EQS746 EQ/Line driver
Rockford Fosgate R300x4 Amplifier (75w x 4 RMS @ 2 ohm)
MTX Thunder 7500 10"
Optima Red top 35 series.


Exterior/Lighting:


Lots of Rust

FX-45 Projector retrofit
Smoked Tails
Hella 500 with DDM 55w HID retrofit
EYourLife 288w Quad Row 26" Light bar (24,000 Lumens!)
Rinolined Rear Quarters
1 1/4" Curt Trailer Hitch
JDM V6 Grill
Tree Fiddy bronze bumper stays
p1 Style Vent Scoops
Supertits Blobeye style hoodscoop
Legit RB5 Spoiler


Skid Plates/Protection
Rally Armor 3/8" Aluminum front skid
Custom 3/8" Aluminum transmission skid
1/4" High Density Polyethylene belly pan.
"PASS WITH CARE" road sign rear diff skid.

This is how she looked pretty much the day I got her.



And how she sits as of today (11/11/2016)









 

Attachments

See less See more
7
#228 ·
What is everyone's preferred SS brake line brand? Although I replaced my lines about 12,000 miles ago with cheap rubbers, they have been sitting dry for the past three years. Also all the crimp connections are rusted to hell so I figure I might as well swap them out now while the brake system is empty. I'd hate to cheap out on SS lines and have issues but I'm also a cheap bastard.

Opinions?
 
#229 ·
I have goodridge on my car for over 4 years, no complaints/problems (I even cannibalized a stray goodridge SS line I had lying around for my clutch slave). If I were to do it again I'd probably spend the little bit extra and get the stop tech lines(they have a clear silicone coating to protect the lines form dirt and grit). I have heard that the goodridge ones have this now too.

I'd stay away from the ebay lines... my brother got a set for my parents 72 VW Beetle and they looked nice at first as they had the same clear silicone coating over the outside, but they leaked fluid under the coating. :(

Dont go cheap on such an important part.
 
#231 ·
i can second the stoptech lines. both myself and matty (back when he actually owned a subaru) have them on our gf's. mine have actually once upon a time been riding the tire, and still hold fine, just enough riding to get through the clear coating.
 
#240 ·
This post is for me mostly. Though I am curious what I should do with my vent line as there's no provisions for it with my fuel rail set-up. Cap it?

Black: Feed
Blue: Vent
Grey: Return

 
#241 · (Edited)
Made some good progress today! I finally got the PS lines swapped and started working on the engine bay. I added additional heat shielding to the PS lines and am happy I did. With the odd up-pipe and EWG I feel that's going to be a fairly warm area.



Found my thread sealant and went to town on the Fuel distribution block, my MAP reference on the throttle body and my oil temp sensor.



Got my Coolant feed line squared away. Though I did realize the hose I used is not rated for coolant so i ordered some proper coolant line. Should be here Wednesday with more fuel injection hose and heat sheathing.



I also swapped out the stock master cylinder for a 1-1/16" WRX unit, installed the MC brace, mounted both my catch cans and also finalized the some of the PCV/catch can hoses.



Still have some work to do as far as fuel line routing and the rest of the PCV/Catch can routing. Overall I'm super pleased with the progress today!



I'm not super pleased with the FPR adapter that I got. It seems a bit too universal. Those washer as far from ideal but I can't find a good orientation for the adapter that I feel is secure in any way.



 
#243 · (Edited)
Finally have power steering! Thanks Terry!



Definitely have a rats nest to organize here.



Fuel lines are run, not super pleased with the AP set-up but at this point I really don't care.



Mounted the FPR. Might need to remove the bit that secures the OEM washer bottle for return line clearance.



And this is how I left it tonight.



I do have concerns about my PS pulley. Couple dings I think will chew up a belt. Any recommendations on how to make this pulley work?



 
#245 ·
Stainless steel brake lines (Stoptech 950.47503 / 950.47003), two liters of ATE Type 200 brake fluid, Extra long exhaust hangers, more heat shielding, 1/2" coolant hose and 10' of fuel line is in. Should be getting everything plumbed in by the end of the week.
 
#249 ·
One is purely for crankcase to PCV valve. The other is between the inlet (fresh air in) and the two valve covers. I'm sure I could of just run the one but if crankcase pressure does make it out of my valve covers I want a catch can in place.
 
#252 · (Edited)
Made a bunch of progress last night. First on the list was extended exhaust hangers. I'm very pleased with where the muffler sits now, hopefully it prevents my bumper from being melted. My exhaust had already been installed on a GC with standard hangers before I got my hands on it so it had some additional clearance in the trouble spots.



Also installed the rear subframe brace and Laile/Beatrush differential support bar. Few tips on the install. If you are doing both at once you definitely want to do the Laile piece first as the brace is in the way of one of the outer mounting points. I had read that you need to drop the subframe about 3/4" to complete the installation however I just took a prybar to the spare tire well and clearanced as needed. Over all both these installs went very smoothly.



I even made a shitty video of my big ass prybar technique. Not sure why.



I then moved onto to doing the Stop-Tech brake line install. Of course the UP winters have taken their toll and the hardline on the first one snap clean off with minimal pressure. I'm thankful I decided to upgrade as the hardline was in such poor shape I don't think I would of gotten very far down the road before it popped on it's own. All that's left on the brake agenda is T'ing the front lines together and installing the SS lines. Then I can finally add fluid and call that portion of the project done!



I also spent a good amount of time in the engine bay routing fuel lines and moving one of my catch cans and FPR in an attempt to mount the flex fuel sensor. No pictures of that as not a whole lot has changed. Now I just need to clean up the front ABS delete and
 
#254 · (Edited)
I do not. I have a set of 4 Braid Winrace T Acropolis Wheels with Michelin gravel tires. I picked up the compmotive so I would have a spare tire for when I have the gravels on as they are a fair bit smaller than my Winters or planned summer size.

 
#255 ·
Looking for advice/exploring my options to secure my rear bumper to the car. Where the 'wings' mount to the body is completely missing on both sides. The pictures show the worst of the two sides but they are both pretty bad. The mudflap mounting bracket does help to support it however I would feel better with a more stout solution.





I have considered some ricer stays like below but would like something a bit less gaudy, not that my car is pretty. There was also a member here who used snowboard binding straps for a bumper mount which I thought was pretty slick.

 
Top