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Mammary Fornicators Racing - TitsFucker #1
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:02 AM   #81
nomad_brad
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Here is what mine look like, I got the full set for $200! and they have center caps and are actually pretty damn clean! You just got me more stoked on them! I could find too much info, I don't think mine are as rare as yours but hey, I paid $200!



Last edited by nomad_brad; 09-23-2015 at 07:02 AM.. Reason: photo bomb~
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:33 PM   #82
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Those are the same as my white ones, Twin Six spoke. They're the tougher ones as well with the way the spokes splay out towards the outer edge of the wheel. $200 was a killer deal!
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:17 PM   #83
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hell yeah! stoked level just raised mega amounts! I just need some rubbers!

And who would have guessed them to be GOLD? lol

thanks for the info and keep on posting photos! your build is insanely fun to scroll thru and day dream!
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:28 AM   #84
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It's been quite a while since I've updated. Car got put on the back burner over summer while I replaced the roof on the house and continued my bad habit of having fun. No big updates yet. Once the Holidays are over and I'm back home I'll be focusing a lot of my energy on the car project. There is one thing I've been researching lately. Maybe some of you can shed some light.

One thing I've always wanted it a flat skid from the engine crossmember all the way to the T-brace/rear diff. I've considered doing it in Aluminum since I have a good source for drops from a water jet company. However I just realized that I can get 4'x8' sheets of 3/8" HDPE from Menards for <$100 once it's all said and done. (Menards link - http://alturl.com/978fr - URL Forwarding)

Another, more expensive option is UHMW which is certainly better suited for a skid plate in an extreme rock crawler situation. However I wonder if it's really necessary for the intended usage of my car. Seems to be super cost prohibitive even when comparing the price for a 1/8" thick UHMV sheet vs a 3/8" HDPE sheet.

I already have a Rallly Armor 3/8" aluminum skid plate for the oilpan/engine. I'm mostly looking to skin from there all the way back to the rear diff. I intend of fabricating a rear diffuser/skidplate from aluminum from the rear diff to the rear bumper.

Does anyone have any experience using HDPE as a skidplate/skin for the trans/driveshaft or fuel/brake lines? Any input would definitely be appreciated!
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:49 AM   #85
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menards. wow. i used to car shop there too for my z31.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:03 AM   #86
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So there's been a mild change of plans. I was originally going to run the vf28, however I came to the conclusion it was just way too small of a snail for my set-up. Between the 2.5l block, big power heads and EWG I feel I'd just be pushing hot air at anything above 5k. I liquidated some parts I had on the shelf and stepped it up a notch. Forced Performance 71HTA on the way! I feel this is an excellent compromise between spool and peak pressure. Hoping I'll be able to hit 20psi a bit after 3k and hold it all the way to 8000.

This also forces me to go all out right from the get go. I intended on running the JDM v6 manifold initially, however the 440cc side-feed injectors won't stand a chance with the larger turbo. I have 775cc top feed injectors that will work with my 2.5i manifold. It is now crunch time to convert the n/a manifold to DBC and hope I can make the 2011 intercooler fit!

Anyone want to buy a VF-28 or a Version 6 STi manifold complete with rails, injectors and throttle body?
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:28 AM   #87
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are you using the v6 throttle body with the 6 wire iacv. If so you better off with a 253 manifold. They had same throttle body, dbc and are top feed.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:21 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryJr View Post
are you using the v6 throttle body with the 6 wire iacv. If so you better off with a 253 manifold. They had same throttle body, dbc and are top feed.
No sir. I'm using my OEM 251 throttle body on the big plenum/long runner manifold from the 2.5i.
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:54 AM   #89
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The final piece of the puzzle as far as putting the motor into the car for the last time is figuring out what I'm going to do for a clutch. I have a few options at my disposal. Which are outlined in the spreadsheet below.

Any Input would be greatly appreciated!

I've included the six speed Stage 1 HD clutch into the mix as a comparison. I know I've read a few things about clearancing the 5 speed bellhousing for the 6 speed flywheel. I have a 6 speed flywheel or two laying around so I wouldn't need to buy that. Just have it resurfaced. Anyone have any experience with running a 6 speed clutch in the 5 speed box?


Things to note:

1: 71HTA is capable of >400 Wheel Torque on e85.
2: I will not run a pucked clutch or anything made by ACT.
2: The cost of resurfacing the flywheel is estimated.
3: I am unsure if the SB clutch ratings are Wheel or Crank. Update: They are crank ratings
4: I will be beating the ever living piss out of this car, with inexperience.
5: South Bend Clutch 'requires' a single mass flywheel for the Stage 2 Endurance unit, this requires more research on my part.



I have a JDM Cusco branded Exedy Hyper Twin clutch that is in dire need of a rebuild that came with the Version 6 swap package I got my drivetrain from. Rebuilding it would be more expensive but there would be no worries about it holding the power. I imagine the the multi-disc flywheel resurface job would incur an additional expense as there is additional machining required to the towers that support the pressure plate. I can buy a new ring for the multi-disc flywheel as well. Also this rebuild would still be using the same pressure plate with an unknown past.
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:04 AM   #90
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just use the 5 speed pull set up. The pull clutches hold more torque for the money. You dont want you clutch to be stronger than the tranny, but with 4.44's a stage 2 rated for 450ish will hold fine, just dont shock load it

and i thought only the push style turbo 5mt, like the XT's had the dual mass, and that all imprezas had single mass until 08. I may be wrong
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