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Mammary Fornicators Racing - TitsFucker #1

139K views 789 replies 38 participants last post by  bue car 
#1 · (Edited)
Well here it is, my Bucket List Build. Ever since my brother (ChicksDigWagons) put together an OBS-T back in 2002 I've been telling myself I would build a 'GC' before I kicked the bucket.

I live near Marquette, MI which is home to some of the best backwoods roads and trails in the country. The Lake Superior Pro Rally is run about an hour north of me and the purpose of this build is pure rally. I'm not looking to tear up the streets, just get to the trail.

Basic run down of the build:

Engine:

EJ257 703 Casting Block
Big Power SOHC Heads ( See Post #3) - 8.96:1 Compression ratio
P&L Motorsports Race Application Oil Pump
VF28 Turbo - Now Forced Performance 71HTA!
JDM Spec C TGV-less Intake manifold
8mm Phenolic Spacers
2013 Sti TMIC
AVO One Piece inlet
Walbro 255
Perrin Top Feed Fuel Rail Kit.
Modded OEM Injectors 820cc

Exhaust:


Ported Version 6 STi manifold
Grimmspeed Ceramic Coated crosspipe
Homemade Flanged EWG up-pipe
Tial 38mm EWG
Invidia Downpipe
Invidia N1 Exhaust
All components Heat Wrapped/Sprayed


Misc. Performance:


Megasquirt MS3-Pro with DIYBOB connector
Innovate LC2 Wideband 02
Zerosports Intercooler Splitter
All Group N mounts/bushings -outrigger bushings
CX Racing Radiator with fans and shroud.
Home Brew Grounding Kit
110 Amp Alternator Swap
Whiteline Transmission crossmember bushings
Beatrush rear differential support
Cusco Rear Subframe Brace

Drivetrain:


MY00 WRX R/A Limited Transmission (4.44, Close Ratio) with DCCD and Helical front LSD (TY754VB1EA)
Whiteline Front shifter bushing
Group-N rear shifter bushing
New OEM late model shifter joint
R180 Plated 4.44 Rear Diff
Factory JDM V6 DCCD Controller (for now)

Brakes:

Subaru 4/2 Pots from MY00 WRX R/A Limited
ABS Delete
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
03 WRX Master cylinder + proportioning valve

Suspension/Handling:

KYB AGXs
Group N Tophats
MY00 R/A Limited Springs
Aluminum Control Arms
Custom Aluminum front Sway bar endlinks
Audi a4 front endlinks in rear.
Whiteline Outrigger Bushings
Whiteline ALK
Subframe Lockdown Bolts
Solid Subframe Bushings
'dd Tuning' Fender Bracing
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
GC8 Carbon fiber Strut bar
Ebay Special rear Strut tower bar
19mm JDM Front Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings
20mm JDM Rear Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings




Tires/Wheels:


Tarmac/Travel - 17x8 +35 Speedline Twin 6 Spoke wearing TBD
Dirt Race/Rally - 15x6.5 Braid Winrace II wearing 195/60/15 Michelin Hard Compound Rally Tires
Winter/Ice Racing - 17x7 +35 Speedline ST2 6 Spokes wearing studded 235/45/17 Hankook i*Pike


Interior/Electronics:


V1/2 JDM STI Front and Rear Seats
Blue Type R limited shifter/stereo surround
JDM Version 6 Limited gauge cluster converted to MPH by G-ROM Cluster Flashing
Momo Prestige Mahogany/Leather Steering wheel
Nexus 7 Tablet for Audio/GPS/Shadowdash gauge display
Clarion EQS746 EQ/Line driver
Rockford Fosgate R300x4 Amplifier (75w x 4 RMS @ 2 ohm)
MTX Thunder 7500 10"
Optima Red top 35 series.


Exterior/Lighting:


Lots of Rust

FX-45 Projector retrofit
Smoked Tails
Hella 500 with DDM 55w HID retrofit
EYourLife 288w Quad Row 26" Light bar (24,000 Lumens!)
Rinolined Rear Quarters
1 1/4" Curt Trailer Hitch
JDM V6 Grill
Tree Fiddy bronze bumper stays
p1 Style Vent Scoops
Supertits Blobeye style hoodscoop
Legit RB5 Spoiler


Skid Plates/Protection
Rally Armor 3/8" Aluminum front skid
Custom 3/8" Aluminum transmission skid
1/4" High Density Polyethylene belly pan.
"PASS WITH CARE" road sign rear diff skid.

This is how she looked pretty much the day I got her.



And how she sits as of today (11/11/2016)









 

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#171 ·
Got the pan back on and I feel way better about my oil return routing now. Pro-Tip- Don't use a 1/4" hex drive Milwaukee fuel impact to tighten your exhaust manifold nuts. I ended up stripping a stud and thankfully was able to thread a bolt in. That's why you see the bolt with a nut as a spacer securing my manifold in these pictures.



 
#173 ·
Little more progress.

Finally put the clutch on and dropped the motor in for the last time!


Up-pipe spacer made. Needed a bit more to clear the SOHC head.


Got the PCV valve plumbed. Still need to route and install catch cans.


Intake manifold is on. Gonna be tough getting the Inlet in. Might grind the injector housings a little bit.


You can see where it will be an issue in this picture.
 
#174 · (Edited)
Well no more pictures really but I did make a little progress in the research and development portion. I mocked up Fuel lines last night and started figuring out what I was gonna have to do to make my hodgepodge of parts work together. Biggest issue being my AEM FPR had a bad gauge and the wrong flange to work with my Agency Power distribution block. After exploring my options and talking with TerryJR I decided to get the necessary parts now to run the AEM instead of slapping a stock unit on there. I think it will be best for the long game but right now I'm trying to spend as little money as possible to get this thing finally going.

I ended up buying a 0-100psi pressure sender instead of a gauge. I figure having the FPR feed Fuel Pressure signal to my ECU so it can be included in logs and also as a visible gauge on the dash is far better than a gauge under the intercooler I'll never be able to see. Ended up with going with this sending unit that will screw right into my regulator and should interface with the Megasquirt easy peazy.



I also ordered a proper Intake Air Temperature sensor that DIYAutoTune recommends. I ordered it from Amazon without the Pigtail as I have a complete weatherpak connector set already. Saved a few bucks there. All in all it was ~$50 including a couple NPT taps to do it right instead of hacking it together. Should save me a headache down the line. Now I just need to sell some more stuff!

This is the IAT sensor I got AC Delco 213-190


I also needed an adapter to mate my -6 AN fuel line to the stock flange style FPR mounting of the earlier WRX's, I'm about 85% positive I got the right one. The one currently on my regulator has far to big of a male portion for the distribution block of my fuel rail kit.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter
 
#175 · (Edited)
What good is a force fed boxer good for if it doesn't have a radiator? The only radiator I had was my stock 154,000 01 RS radiator. I had originally planned on an STi radiator and even had one of them $300 Mishimoto units for free.99 but ended up letting it go with the 04 STi. After a few weeks of hemming and hawing I finally bit the bullet on one of the CXRacing units from eBay. I couldn't find a whole lot bad about them and if this set-up lasts me two years I'll be feeling pretty swell about it. I had already invested in cooling bits to be bolt on for an STi radiator so I figure it would of costed me a fair amount to make the RS one work. Not to mention new vs 154,000 miles!



Some of the installed pictures in the eBay add don't look very pretty but at the same time I won't be expecting a perfect fit in the RS. I'll be sure to keep y'all updated!
 
#182 ·
Looking at my wiring in preperation to modify the harness. Have a mild concern, hoping I don't have the plugs reversed from the ECU to the Break Out Board. Gonna take some digging. Also need to swap my Idle air control leads to the PWM out on the MS box and repurpose the extra leads for my fuel pressure sensor.

 
#183 · (Edited)
Radiator came in today. Build quality is about as expected. Overall I think it's worth the $200 shipped for the radiator, fans and shroud. The shround mounting is a little off but that's nothing I can't work around. It also came with some strange fasteners that I'm not too sure of their intended purpose.









 
#184 ·
Last picture is garbage but this shows the clearance I have with the pulley and crosspipe. I'm slightly concerned about heat from the crosspipe though not that much as it's ceramic coated, heat wrapped and has high temp silicone spray over the heat wrap. Looks like it will work to me!





 
#186 ·
I got a lot done today on the car. Most of it was figuring out the wiring and confirming a lot of values. I spent a few hours on figuring out my boost reference for the MAP, BCS, EWG, BOV and FPR. I also stripped my engine harness a little in preparation for modification.

I tapped the WRX throttle body's MAP sensor location for a 1/8 NPT nipple that I intend on using for my feed line to both the GM MAP sensor and my FPR.



I also melted and reformed the oil fill tube I have so it would clear the fuel rail. I thought I took better pictures but I do have this WIP shot.



I also pull a plug from the oil galley and installed my Oil Temp sensor using the extra 1/8 npt bung I had. Unfortunately I do not know the scaling for this sensor at all.



I also reversed the top coolant line on my turbo so it's pointing directily at the heater core hose that I plan on T'ing into.



Lastly I cleaned up the Perrin radiator shroud and painted it. This stay has the proper upper spacing for the radiator I had to chop a chunk out and still need to drill some holes butI'm super happy with the paint job!



 
#190 ·
Didn't spend nearly as much time in the garage this today as I would of liked. I did fiddle with the radiator stay some more. Drilled out the holes for the grommets and put the rubber from my OEM stays in there. Trimmed them a bit but I think I'm gonna try to thin them out some more to tighten everything up.

I really like the look in car. I feel the scheme goes well with the 'Beat to **** beast' vibe.

 
#193 ·
So today I powerhoused a lot of small projects on the car. There was a whole lot of torquing bolts. I also drilled and tapped the manifold for the IAT. The goal was to at least have the engine as sealed as possible since I won't be able to work in the car for a couple weeks. There's still plenty to be done but it at least looks like there's a motor in the thing now!




There is one thing I am wondering about and that's an expansion tank delete. I have always intended on running one but is it really necessary. In this picture I have one of the coolant lines from the turbo going directly to the water pipe the comes up between the runners. Is there any reason this is a bad idea?

 
#196 ·
Modify the throttle bracket how?

That's a protective sleeve for the brake line. It was contacting the T so I slapped that on there until I get around to redoing the lines proper.
 
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