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Mammary Fornicators Racing - TitsFucker #1

139K views 789 replies 38 participants last post by  bue car 
#1 · (Edited)
Well here it is, my Bucket List Build. Ever since my brother (ChicksDigWagons) put together an OBS-T back in 2002 I've been telling myself I would build a 'GC' before I kicked the bucket.

I live near Marquette, MI which is home to some of the best backwoods roads and trails in the country. The Lake Superior Pro Rally is run about an hour north of me and the purpose of this build is pure rally. I'm not looking to tear up the streets, just get to the trail.

Basic run down of the build:

Engine:

EJ257 703 Casting Block
Big Power SOHC Heads ( See Post #3) - 8.96:1 Compression ratio
P&L Motorsports Race Application Oil Pump
VF28 Turbo - Now Forced Performance 71HTA!
JDM Spec C TGV-less Intake manifold
8mm Phenolic Spacers
2013 Sti TMIC
AVO One Piece inlet
Walbro 255
Perrin Top Feed Fuel Rail Kit.
Modded OEM Injectors 820cc

Exhaust:


Ported Version 6 STi manifold
Grimmspeed Ceramic Coated crosspipe
Homemade Flanged EWG up-pipe
Tial 38mm EWG
Invidia Downpipe
Invidia N1 Exhaust
All components Heat Wrapped/Sprayed


Misc. Performance:


Megasquirt MS3-Pro with DIYBOB connector
Innovate LC2 Wideband 02
Zerosports Intercooler Splitter
All Group N mounts/bushings -outrigger bushings
CX Racing Radiator with fans and shroud.
Home Brew Grounding Kit
110 Amp Alternator Swap
Whiteline Transmission crossmember bushings
Beatrush rear differential support
Cusco Rear Subframe Brace

Drivetrain:


MY00 WRX R/A Limited Transmission (4.44, Close Ratio) with DCCD and Helical front LSD (TY754VB1EA)
Whiteline Front shifter bushing
Group-N rear shifter bushing
New OEM late model shifter joint
R180 Plated 4.44 Rear Diff
Factory JDM V6 DCCD Controller (for now)

Brakes:

Subaru 4/2 Pots from MY00 WRX R/A Limited
ABS Delete
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
03 WRX Master cylinder + proportioning valve

Suspension/Handling:

KYB AGXs
Group N Tophats
MY00 R/A Limited Springs
Aluminum Control Arms
Custom Aluminum front Sway bar endlinks
Audi a4 front endlinks in rear.
Whiteline Outrigger Bushings
Whiteline ALK
Subframe Lockdown Bolts
Solid Subframe Bushings
'dd Tuning' Fender Bracing
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
GC8 Carbon fiber Strut bar
Ebay Special rear Strut tower bar
19mm JDM Front Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings
20mm JDM Rear Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings




Tires/Wheels:


Tarmac/Travel - 17x8 +35 Speedline Twin 6 Spoke wearing TBD
Dirt Race/Rally - 15x6.5 Braid Winrace II wearing 195/60/15 Michelin Hard Compound Rally Tires
Winter/Ice Racing - 17x7 +35 Speedline ST2 6 Spokes wearing studded 235/45/17 Hankook i*Pike


Interior/Electronics:


V1/2 JDM STI Front and Rear Seats
Blue Type R limited shifter/stereo surround
JDM Version 6 Limited gauge cluster converted to MPH by G-ROM Cluster Flashing
Momo Prestige Mahogany/Leather Steering wheel
Nexus 7 Tablet for Audio/GPS/Shadowdash gauge display
Clarion EQS746 EQ/Line driver
Rockford Fosgate R300x4 Amplifier (75w x 4 RMS @ 2 ohm)
MTX Thunder 7500 10"
Optima Red top 35 series.


Exterior/Lighting:


Lots of Rust

FX-45 Projector retrofit
Smoked Tails
Hella 500 with DDM 55w HID retrofit
EYourLife 288w Quad Row 26" Light bar (24,000 Lumens!)
Rinolined Rear Quarters
1 1/4" Curt Trailer Hitch
JDM V6 Grill
Tree Fiddy bronze bumper stays
p1 Style Vent Scoops
Supertits Blobeye style hoodscoop
Legit RB5 Spoiler


Skid Plates/Protection
Rally Armor 3/8" Aluminum front skid
Custom 3/8" Aluminum transmission skid
1/4" High Density Polyethylene belly pan.
"PASS WITH CARE" road sign rear diff skid.

This is how she looked pretty much the day I got her.



And how she sits as of today (11/11/2016)









 

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#84 · (Edited)
It's been quite a while since I've updated. Car got put on the back burner over summer while I replaced the roof on the house and continued my bad habit of having fun. No big updates yet. Once the Holidays are over and I'm back home I'll be focusing a lot of my energy on the car project. There is one thing I've been researching lately. Maybe some of you can shed some light.

One thing I've always wanted it a flat skid from the engine crossmember all the way to the T-brace/rear diff. I've considered doing it in Aluminum since I have a good source for drops from a water jet company. However I just realized that I can get 4'x8' sheets of 3/8" HDPE from Menards for <$100 once it's all said and done. (Menards link - http://alturl.com/978fr - URL Forwarding)

Another, more expensive option is UHMW which is certainly better suited for a skid plate in an extreme rock crawler situation. However I wonder if it's really necessary for the intended usage of my car. Seems to be super cost prohibitive even when comparing the price for a 1/8" thick UHMV sheet vs a 3/8" HDPE sheet.

I already have a Rallly Armor 3/8" aluminum skid plate for the oilpan/engine. I'm mostly looking to skin from there all the way back to the rear diff. I intend of fabricating a rear diffuser/skidplate from aluminum from the rear diff to the rear bumper.

Does anyone have any experience using HDPE as a skidplate/skin for the trans/driveshaft or fuel/brake lines? Any input would definitely be appreciated!
 
#86 ·
So there's been a mild change of plans. I was originally going to run the vf28, however I came to the conclusion it was just way too small of a snail for my set-up. Between the 2.5l block, big power heads and EWG I feel I'd just be pushing hot air at anything above 5k. I liquidated some parts I had on the shelf and stepped it up a notch. Forced Performance 71HTA on the way! I feel this is an excellent compromise between spool and peak pressure. Hoping I'll be able to hit 20psi a bit after 3k and hold it all the way to 8000.

This also forces me to go all out right from the get go. I intended on running the JDM v6 manifold initially, however the 440cc side-feed injectors won't stand a chance with the larger turbo. I have 775cc top feed injectors that will work with my 2.5i manifold. It is now crunch time to convert the n/a manifold to DBC and hope I can make the 2011 intercooler fit!

Anyone want to buy a VF-28 or a Version 6 STi manifold complete with rails, injectors and throttle body?
 
#89 · (Edited)
The final piece of the puzzle as far as putting the motor into the car for the last time is figuring out what I'm going to do for a clutch. I have a few options at my disposal. Which are outlined in the spreadsheet below.

Any Input would be greatly appreciated!

I've included the six speed Stage 1 HD clutch into the mix as a comparison. I know I've read a few things about clearancing the 5 speed bellhousing for the 6 speed flywheel. I have a 6 speed flywheel or two laying around so I wouldn't need to buy that. Just have it resurfaced. Anyone have any experience with running a 6 speed clutch in the 5 speed box?


Things to note:

1: 71HTA is capable of >400 Wheel Torque on e85.
2: I will not run a pucked clutch or anything made by ACT.
2: The cost of resurfacing the flywheel is estimated.
3: I am unsure if the SB clutch ratings are Wheel or Crank. Update: They are crank ratings
4: I will be beating the ever living piss out of this car, with inexperience.
5: South Bend Clutch 'requires' a single mass flywheel for the Stage 2 Endurance unit, this requires more research on my part.



I have a JDM Cusco branded Exedy Hyper Twin clutch that is in dire need of a rebuild that came with the Version 6 swap package I got my drivetrain from. Rebuilding it would be more expensive but there would be no worries about it holding the power. I imagine the the multi-disc flywheel resurface job would incur an additional expense as there is additional machining required to the towers that support the pressure plate. I can buy a new ring for the multi-disc flywheel as well. Also this rebuild would still be using the same pressure plate with an unknown past.
 
#90 · (Edited)
just use the 5 speed pull set up. The pull clutches hold more torque for the money. You dont want you clutch to be stronger than the tranny, but with 4.44's a stage 2 rated for 450ish will hold fine, just dont shock load it

and i thought only the push style turbo 5mt, like the XT's had the dual mass, and that all imprezas had single mass until 08. I may be wrong
 
#91 ·
I've only done a limited amount of research on the dual mass vs. single mass flywheel situation. The research I have done leads me to believe all the flywheels I have are dual mass. Of course I'm not home to do an ocular inspection. MY super brief research suggests that the 02-05 WRX flywheels are dual mass and they switched to single in 2006. Beyond that I have no idea. If the information I have is accurate I would have to source a single mass flywheel regardless, that I'm sure would need to be resurfaced. That just opens up the vortex of aftermarket flywheels which I'm on the fence about.
 
#93 ·
Repaired the pictures that were broken in post #3 of the heads. Also had a moment of concern when I realized that the 2008+ STi gaskets (11044aa770) are different than the 04-07 STi gaskets (11044aa642). Now I have concerns about my later block (which I believe are all the same) and my heads. I'm 99.9% positive I used the earlier -642 gaskets when I assembled the long block. However I'm not positive what year my SOHC heads are from.

Can anyone tell me if the coolant passages of my heads match the coolant passages of the earlier 251s? Photos below for comparison.

04 vs 08 Headgaskets:



My Heads - Note the 08 style upper coolant passages:

 
#95 ·
I haven't personally checked. I did a bunch of research on the subject the other night and didn't notice any mention of a change in thickness between the two, although that wasn't really the information I was after.
 
#97 ·
Thanks dude. I try to post anything I end up having to spend a bunch of time researching. There should be some more progress in the next few weeks. Trying to get the car started by February 16th.
 
#98 ·
Another thing on my list is figuring out my PCV system. I'm pretty much decided on running dual catch cans. Right now I'm leaning towards the Mishimoto compact baffled catch cans. ( Amazon.com: Mishimoto MMBCC-MSTHR-BK Black Compact Baffled 3-Port Oil Catch Can: Automotive )

I'm going to run one from the valve cover breathers, potentially with a filter to outside air or into the inlet. The second would be run from the crankcase vents to the PCV valve/Intake manifold.

Question I have been pondering is whether it's even necessary to route either line back to the inlet tract or Intake manifold. The only reason to utilize the PCV valve that I have found is so intake vacuum will help to scavenge air from the crank case. Thus I should be able to route the crankcase vent directly to the PCV valve and not connect it to the rest of the intake tract at all. Incoming fresh air could be pulled through the Valve cover ports which will either be connected to the inlet or the directly filtered underhood air. I'm not concerned with metered air issues as I am running a MAP based engine management system.

This is essentially what I am proposing.


Utilizing these parts. The reason for the 3 ports (2 in / 1 out) is that there's a port on each valve cover and there's also two ports on the crankcase. Also the 3 port units are cheaper than the 2 port ones!



Any thoughts?



Is there something that I am missing?
 
#102 · (Edited)
FRY, nick whatever your name is, the pcv must be tied to a fresh air source, this way it doesnt pull full vacuum from the crankcase. So you outside vent should be metered in a maf car, thats why most people keep it in the stock configuration and just add the catch cans. If your speed density then you can add an unmetered vent and pull filtered air through the valve covers. just have a very good AOS on the crankcase line before the pcv valve
 
#99 · (Edited)
So I've decided on the Southbend Stage 2 clutch with a Fidanza flywheel. I picked up the flywheel from a member here who said the Pilot bearing was loose. Some quick research pulled up this.



I priced the Gap Filler Loc-Tite (#660) and a very small tube will be ~$14 to my door. Has anyone installed an aluminum flywheel and gone through this process before? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff and don't end up paying $14 for 6ml of something when I could pay $14 and get 50ml of something else for the same task.

****EDIT 04/06/16 - When I installed the pilot bearing it fit in the race perfectly. So I ended up not using the $10 bottle of loc-tite I bought.*****
 
#178 ·
So I've decided on the Southbend Stage 2 clutch with a Fidanza flywheel. I picked up the flywheel from a member here who said the Pilot bearing was loose. Some quick research pulled up this.



I priced the Gap Filler Loc-Tite (#660) and a very small tube will be ~$14 to my door. Has anyone installed an aluminum flywheel and gone through this process before? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff and don't end up paying $14 for 6ml of something when I could pay $14 and get 50ml of something else for the same task.
When I installed the pilot bearing it fit in the race perfectly. So I ended up not using the $14 bottle of loc-tite I bought.
 
#104 ·
Well it's not just a standard red or blue Loctite. It's a Loctite product designed to fill the gap when tolerances are loose. The image is an excerpt from the Fidanza installation instructions, which I intend to follow.

The reason for the loose tolerance is because the aluminum flywheel and the bearing are made of different materials so they expand/contract at different rates. I've sent Fidanza an E-mail for clarification on exactly what product to use.
 
#106 ·
right now, i have two ebay breathers on my valve covers, then the rear crankcase line goes into a catch can and then to my turbo inlet. So far so good, i have about 2500 miles or so on this motor, oils clean and only used about a half quart so far
 
#108 ·
So I've been doing some research on my options for the PCV set-up. I pulled the trigger on the Mishimoto cans. The PCV valve is on the block of the car my manifold is out of. My current plan is to source a PCV valve with a 3/8" NPT thread I can thread into the crankcase catch can output. That line will then be run to the Intake manifold. Something like the Borg Warner PCV255 would be ideal. Ultimately I'm gonna have to spend some time at the parts store to find the perfect one for my application.



Another thing I've been trying to figure out is where to draw my MAP reference from for the GM 3 Bar. I've read some reports of the MAP reading being inconsistent depending on where the reference is located in the manifold. The picture below shows the only two ports that are available to me without drilling/tapping for a new bung. I'm not opposed to the idea but if I don't have to, that would be great!

 
#109 ·
pcv valves usually flow one direction, you could use a 3/8npt to 1/4 bushing/reducer to use a subaru valve.

and theyre throttle body spacers on ebay with extra vacuum ports on side. but those may create less room to fit tmic. i just drilled and tapped mine for the 1/8"npt brake booster line. did it in an old bolt spot where casted is thick
 
#110 ·
Yeah, the flow direction is why that's one of those things I'm gonna need to go to the parts store for so I can ensure that it's the proper orientation. I didn't consider an adapter at all, I'll have to look into it.

Space for the late model TMIC is at a premium as it is. I plan on cutting the DBW flange completely off and welding a DBC flange on to maintain as much clearance as possible.
 
#112 · (Edited)
So there's very little out there that suggests one can use the 2.5i intake with a TMIC. It's also nearly impossible to find anyone with the 2011 intercooler in a 'GC' Chassis. I've spent the past couple days fabricating a rough draft of the throttle body spacer and figuring out the logistics. I'm wondering how feasible it is to rotate the throttle body 90 degrees. I know hood clearance will be an issue.









 
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