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Mammary Fornicators Racing - TitsFucker #1

139K views 789 replies 38 participants last post by  bue car 
#1 · (Edited)
Well here it is, my Bucket List Build. Ever since my brother (ChicksDigWagons) put together an OBS-T back in 2002 I've been telling myself I would build a 'GC' before I kicked the bucket.

I live near Marquette, MI which is home to some of the best backwoods roads and trails in the country. The Lake Superior Pro Rally is run about an hour north of me and the purpose of this build is pure rally. I'm not looking to tear up the streets, just get to the trail.

Basic run down of the build:

Engine:

EJ257 703 Casting Block
Big Power SOHC Heads ( See Post #3) - 8.96:1 Compression ratio
P&L Motorsports Race Application Oil Pump
VF28 Turbo - Now Forced Performance 71HTA!
JDM Spec C TGV-less Intake manifold
8mm Phenolic Spacers
2013 Sti TMIC
AVO One Piece inlet
Walbro 255
Perrin Top Feed Fuel Rail Kit.
Modded OEM Injectors 820cc

Exhaust:


Ported Version 6 STi manifold
Grimmspeed Ceramic Coated crosspipe
Homemade Flanged EWG up-pipe
Tial 38mm EWG
Invidia Downpipe
Invidia N1 Exhaust
All components Heat Wrapped/Sprayed


Misc. Performance:


Megasquirt MS3-Pro with DIYBOB connector
Innovate LC2 Wideband 02
Zerosports Intercooler Splitter
All Group N mounts/bushings -outrigger bushings
CX Racing Radiator with fans and shroud.
Home Brew Grounding Kit
110 Amp Alternator Swap
Whiteline Transmission crossmember bushings
Beatrush rear differential support
Cusco Rear Subframe Brace

Drivetrain:


MY00 WRX R/A Limited Transmission (4.44, Close Ratio) with DCCD and Helical front LSD (TY754VB1EA)
Whiteline Front shifter bushing
Group-N rear shifter bushing
New OEM late model shifter joint
R180 Plated 4.44 Rear Diff
Factory JDM V6 DCCD Controller (for now)

Brakes:

Subaru 4/2 Pots from MY00 WRX R/A Limited
ABS Delete
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
03 WRX Master cylinder + proportioning valve

Suspension/Handling:

KYB AGXs
Group N Tophats
MY00 R/A Limited Springs
Aluminum Control Arms
Custom Aluminum front Sway bar endlinks
Audi a4 front endlinks in rear.
Whiteline Outrigger Bushings
Whiteline ALK
Subframe Lockdown Bolts
Solid Subframe Bushings
'dd Tuning' Fender Bracing
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
GC8 Carbon fiber Strut bar
Ebay Special rear Strut tower bar
19mm JDM Front Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings
20mm JDM Rear Sway bar w/ Whiteline bushings




Tires/Wheels:


Tarmac/Travel - 17x8 +35 Speedline Twin 6 Spoke wearing TBD
Dirt Race/Rally - 15x6.5 Braid Winrace II wearing 195/60/15 Michelin Hard Compound Rally Tires
Winter/Ice Racing - 17x7 +35 Speedline ST2 6 Spokes wearing studded 235/45/17 Hankook i*Pike


Interior/Electronics:


V1/2 JDM STI Front and Rear Seats
Blue Type R limited shifter/stereo surround
JDM Version 6 Limited gauge cluster converted to MPH by G-ROM Cluster Flashing
Momo Prestige Mahogany/Leather Steering wheel
Nexus 7 Tablet for Audio/GPS/Shadowdash gauge display
Clarion EQS746 EQ/Line driver
Rockford Fosgate R300x4 Amplifier (75w x 4 RMS @ 2 ohm)
MTX Thunder 7500 10"
Optima Red top 35 series.


Exterior/Lighting:


Lots of Rust

FX-45 Projector retrofit
Smoked Tails
Hella 500 with DDM 55w HID retrofit
EYourLife 288w Quad Row 26" Light bar (24,000 Lumens!)
Rinolined Rear Quarters
1 1/4" Curt Trailer Hitch
JDM V6 Grill
Tree Fiddy bronze bumper stays
p1 Style Vent Scoops
Supertits Blobeye style hoodscoop
Legit RB5 Spoiler


Skid Plates/Protection
Rally Armor 3/8" Aluminum front skid
Custom 3/8" Aluminum transmission skid
1/4" High Density Polyethylene belly pan.
"PASS WITH CARE" road sign rear diff skid.

This is how she looked pretty much the day I got her.



And how she sits as of today (11/11/2016)









 

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#57 ·
I remember you mentioning that Brian. I know my brother had good luck using the rear port as well as a few other builds I've read. We'll see when it's game time if it's good or not. You just had the factory dummy switch, eh?
 
#61 ·
Got some goldies!



Also got the oil pump and timing parts/covers installed, much excite!



Been spending most of my time working on my Legacy wagon before I sell it to my friend and also in the middle of remodeling the house. Hopefully get the motor in the car for the last time soon.
 
#62 ·
Progress has continued to be slow. Mainly because I picked this guy up for a steal! I'm still planning on building Ruby but now I can comfortably go full retard on it since I got myself the 04 STi to daily.

Thing runs like garbage and needs bunch of little bits and pieces to be complete. Overall not a bad car for what I paid. Full Exhaust, 18g, aftermarket intake, Tein coilovers, braided brakes lines. Dude dumped a bunch of money into it but I don't think it's seen a mechanic in years. It came with 5 RPF-1s that I sold to recoup some of the cost of the car.



 
#63 ·
Well I think I am finally set on wheels. Aside from some 15" rally wheels that is!

17x8 +35


17x7 +35


I also got myself a beautiful mahogany and leather Momo steering wheel. I got it for a really good price and have always wanted a wooden steering wheel, so now I have one.



The hardest part was finding a hub adapter that will allow me to retain proper turn signal function and allow my passenger airbag to work. I found that the Daikei S-501 is exactly what I needed. Unfortunetaly is a JDM part and costs close to $150 from Japanparts.

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/6821
 
#64 · (Edited)
Made some major progress thanks to ChicksDigWagons (my brother). This has been wired up for a while but I finally made it to his house to pick it up.



The car is back in the garage, I've collected a few more parts I need and tonight I'll be doing the retrofit of the headlights with a buddy of mine. Expect actual progress soon!
 
#71 ·
The MS-3 Pro comes with a straight harness in a pre-built waterproof case. You can buy the bare board but it's hardly worth it unless you need to use a stock ECU case for class regulations in SCCA or another sanctioning body.

The Breakout board is a piece offered by DIYAutoTune.com that you solder the leads from the MS-3 harness to mate the ECU to your factory wiring. I am adding an additional add on board to the BOB in order to run additional sensors in the future.
 
#72 ·
I managed to get my retrofit nearly complete. Unfortunately I lost a couple vital items that are needed before I can adjust them properly in the housing. One of them is the small black spring nut for the headlight bucket adjustment, the other is the headlight retaining spring for one of the FX-45 projects that I am having a hell of a time finding!

If anyone sees a Infiniti FX-35/45 in the junkyard grab me the headlight retaining spring! :stafiseiz

FX-45 Projectors are huge! BMW Projectors fit much better in the factory bucket.



A lot had to be chopped from both the housing and bucket.

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Bottom


Light Pattern - Clear lenses, Osram 35w 6500k bulbs with 55w TRS Ballasts (Final ~5500K)


This is the clearance with the rear of the headlight housing. Not ideal but it will work with the right angle ballasts.


As far as we got with the missing parts. Shrouds are 'Ocular' units I found on ebay, can also be had from TRS.


 
#73 ·
Looks like I'll be able to use the JDM PS pump with the APS hard inlet. The bolt interferes slightly but I think that can be remedied easily with an angle grinder.



 
#74 · (Edited)
As far as the pan side of the oil return I think I have figured out how I'm going to attack the situation. My biggest concern is going to be heat from the exhaust manifold melting the twist-loc hose I'm going to be using. I do believe if I place my bung where the yellow arrow is in the picture below I will be fine. I am planning on ceramic coating + heat wrapping the exhaust manifold after I remove all the unnecessary bosses for the heat shield. I also think I will have to remove the metal from the motor mount that's indicated by the green arrow. Picture of the bung I will be using is below.

Will there be any issues with removing that sheet metal from the motor mount?

Has anyone else tried this routing method?



Bung

 
#77 ·
I was cutting off heat shield tabs before I sandblast and coat it. The battery died on my grinder so I was trying to break the rest of the tab off with a hammer. I knew it was a bad idea when I was doing it.
 
#78 ·
Did some minor porting to my exhaust manifold today. I'm going to be running a Grimmspeed crossover so I wanted a smoother transition between the crosspipe and the OEM manifold parts. I ended up taking about 3mm off of the OEM manifolds at the crosspipe connections.

I used a $15 Tool Shop rotary tool I got from Menards shortly after Christmas a couple years ago. For bits I used a $5ish bit set from Harbor Freight. I started to bellmouth the head side of the manifolds but my bits are pretty much shot (as can be expected) but it still feels good to make a little bit of progress.





Pictures show the first one I did. I understand it's not well done in any sort of way but I think it will be better than if I did nothing.
 
#79 ·
SICK sick sick build! no cornors cut and no rush! Thing is going to be HAM!!! I did notice you posted some images of some speedline rims, and I'm kinda curious what they run? I picked up a set locally here in Idaho for DIRT cheap, but all data I can find on them is post of "JDM" rims for over 1g......Can I ask what you paid for yours? I got mine chilling in the basement waiting for rubber, and mostly likely summer time.......
 
#80 · (Edited)
Thanks dude, I really appreciate your support. It's been a long way coming but things are finally starting to come together!

Speedlines are not very cheap, if you can find them. It's not unusual to see them for close to $1000 especially if they have rubber on them. The gold ones I have are even harder to find as they are magnesium rally wheels, unfortunately they don't have the proper hub bore for a Subaru! I had to do some mad scouring on the internet and overseas eBay to find mine. The hardest part is finding a set that someone is willing to ship to the US for reasonable. Google translate is your friend!
 
#82 ·
Those are the same as my white ones, Twin Six spoke. They're the tougher ones as well with the way the spokes splay out towards the outer edge of the wheel. $200 was a killer deal!
 
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