Thats my favorite bumper as well. I have a 01 2.5rs bumper right now, but still want a Ver 1-3.
I haven't wieghed my car, but i have no rear bumper beam, removed rear wheel well (replaced with a thin sheet of aluminum), half a 2.5rs front bumper, no rear seats, no interior trim (except a dash), no air bags, no sound insulation, manual windows, no cats or mufflers (that saves weight right?), a cheap used CF hood... I imagine the car is pretty light. It is 75% rally cross only, i rarely drive it on the street, i know i would be smoked if i got hit. my car stock was 2650 (96 brighton coupe).
Originally Posted by RavensFan77
I was never a huge fan of lips and skirts. The only exterior, body changes I'd like to do is the v1-v3 (I think) front bumper. I'll do that when I get the car resprayed eventually.
As far as the lightweight stuff goes....well it just got more difficult.
I weighed it yesterday for the first time since the swap, and I'm basically back at stock weight.
I'm running out of stuff I can safely remove/lighten since it's a daily. There are some spendy options left...battery is happening soonish:
If I get that v1-3 bumper I'll need to change the front beam somehow...light bumper beams would help A LOT, but those make me nervous....I could cut my front one to keep some strength instead of the JDM one I guess.
Was shooting for 2500's....but now I'd just like to be back in the 2600's.
99 Sedan, ej20x, STi RA Ltd 5 speed. 2017 RallyCross MA National Champion
This is the same approach I had for my car! BTW, cutting the lower half of the front bumper beam is a much better idea. You lose a lot of weight, but it is WAY stronger than the JDM beam. Doing a rear JDM bumper dropped a tad bit of weight too.
If you get a V3/4 bumper you should also get the aluminum hood too! They a frickin sweet (and light).
If you get a V3/4 bumper you should also get the aluminum hood too! They a frickin sweet (and light).
Yup, aluminum, or carbon paint matched.
Doing the hood, bumper beam, and battery would help a lot, especially since it's the front of the car where I need it.
I forgot about gas last time I weighed the car. It didn't change much but I always go with:
-1/4 tank of gas
-full size spare (16x7)
-scissor jack and tire iron
Current weight: 2720...So the swap added 80 lbs, not closer to 100 like I thought. Still a lot of weight... -_-
Just been enjoying driving it. Clutch is almost broken in so I can have more fun. Scheduled a pro tune for sometime soon. Depends when I need to get the accessport fixed:
I had no heat shields on the turbo or downpipe. This is my first attempt at a DIY turbo heatshield....I used rectangular reflectors from 277 lights that are the perfect size. I left the underside the same reflective silver color, and used high temp spray paint on the top....and aluminum strips for the brackets.
$14 total. Cheap and simple.
Before, the intercooler was too hot to rest a hand on after driving....now touching the side right by the turbo is hot, but can rest a hand on. Really surprised how much of a difference it made.
Another engine bay picture. I cleaned up some stuff and painted a few things, like the alternator cover. Also replaced the main fuse because I accidentally touched the alternator wire to ground.
Last edited by RavensFan77; 09-07-2014 at 01:04 PM..
Not much to update. Got my coolant topped off today and have been just keeping an eye on everything. Finally past break in on the clutch, so last Tuesday I got a pro-tune at turboxs.
Jermaine did an awesome job....car feels smooth and holds boost better in higher rpm's....before the pro-tune, it felt like it ran out of breath too early....and I just wanted a nice, reliable tune. Gonna go back when I get my up pipe and other stuff.
I know numbers are just numbers, but it made around 220hp/260tq, with a downpipe and TGV deletes...still gotta get the plots though. Goals for weight and power are; lower 2600 lbs with around 300tq. Should make for a fun daily.
-The end of August marked 3 years since I've had the car, and just this past weekend I hit 160,000 miles....60,000 miles, 3 years, and 2 engines, but still so much to do...
-Anyway, the other day I noticed the e-clip for the wastegate actuator was kinda loose. I tried to crimp it tighter but it didn't work well. I ran out to get more clips and stuff and on the way it felt like I lost 1/2 the power all of a sudden. I was thinking something bad happened....but the actuator just popped off.
Now I keep a whole box of e-clips in the car, incase that **** ever happens again:
-Sunday I cleaned the interior and got it all back together for the first time since before the swap. I need a better mount for the accessport, and will be adding real gauges soon.
I also re-finished the connecting rod shifter a couple weeks ago....when the car was sitting for that month during the swap, the shifter started rusting.
-Today I did my take on the DIY grounding mod. I used red, stranded, 12g wire.....I can get wire from work so it was free and red 12 was all we had. I will be re-doing this later on with 10g black wire to hide it better.
My main focus was the grounds for the injectors/coils/ect for each side.
I started at the negative battery terminal, and ran a separate wire to each side of the intake manifold where the engine harness grounds already were. I wanted a straight shot to the battery for both of those. Then, since I knew the manifold is a really nice ground, I used another bolt hole and ran it to the driver's side strut tower.
Last edited by RavensFan77; 09-15-2014 at 08:02 PM..
Ordered a mechanical boost/vac gauge tonight. The accessport shows me hitting 16-17 lbs. at times, so I'd like to see what the real PSI is. Hope to install that this weekend so I can send the accessport off to get fixed next week.
-I never liked the oem corner lights, but couldn't decide on amber or clear. I got curious and tinted my stock ones to amber...it took a bunch of coats to turn orange, but its a pretty close match.
I definitely like the amber look now, and will be picking up a set...but again let me mention how I dislike my front bumper. I wish I didn't black out the bottom, and have to change my fog light set-up...but hopefully I can respray this one to all red, or get the v3-v4 one soon.
-Had to replace the oil filler neck & o-ring. It was leaking a ton of oil, probably because the o-ring was hard as a rock! I wasn't sure if the neck was cracked (it wasn't) so I just bought the whole part from Subaru...it came with a new o-ring, and the little bracket too for only like $22. Pretty cheap for a dealership part.
Last edited by RavensFan77; 09-25-2014 at 03:11 AM..
This weekend I installed a TurboSmart mechanical boost gauge. I should have just bought a real mount or something...but I took out one of the dash vents and put the gauge there.
I cut the HVAC tube to make room and blocked it off so the other side still flows nice. ...ran the wiring and tube in that plastic conduit stuff, and wired it to the same place as my LED's.
For boost it shows the same reading as the accessport...anywhere between 16-17 psi at full boost. Good to know the accessport is accurate for boost.
It reads -20 at idle, fully warmed up. Also good to know that I have proper vacuum at idle. (I think?)
Here's a few pictures of it finished...for now....moved the accessport too. I'd like to make a backing plate type thing to go behind the gauge. I also need white/ blue bulbs for the stock cluster to match the head unit and boost gauge.
Little bit of weight reduction from this weekend....random stuff....a 5 whole lbs.
I removed the hunk of metal under the drivers side dash...and I have no clue why I had a steering wheel cover, so I took that off too. Hopefully I'm getting close to the 2600's again...
Passed inspection last week. PA is easy, so it was no issue with the swap and stuff...I'm fully catted anyway.
Last edited by RavensFan77; 09-29-2014 at 03:01 AM..
Haven't really done much lately except drive it. Just been keeping up with things and preparing for winter. Still running pretty good...I get anywhere from 22-25 MPG depending how I drive. Pulls nice and still hitting 16-17 lbs.
Changed oil on Saturday (11/1/14). I mention it so I can remember for once:
...random fall picture:
I lose a bit if oil between changes...but it's at random times. There was nothing in the TMIC or compressor outlet, and no leaks....so maybe the turbo...just gotta pull the DP and see but I'm lazy.
..when I get my up-pipe I'll probably just get rebuilt/new td04 too.
I finally installed the little gasket/plug I was missing for the cam position sensor....before it was just a wide open hole around the sensor and I didn't want water getting in:
I want to clean up the bay some. My plan:
-Move the bracket holding the BCS and 02 plugs.
-Simplify the spaghetti mess of EVAP hoses
-Hide Alternator wire (and others)
I made a cover for the BCS bracket because the oem WRX cover wouldn't work...that's why I'm just going to move it instead. I also mocked up the EVAP hose simplification on my spare manifold....it removes the circular valve and hoses, just leaving 2 hoses and the Fuel Vapor solenoid.
I started the battery relocation last week. This is my first attempt and I'm sure I'll re-do it later on. I'm running the wire in flexible conduit, and the battery behind the passenger seat in a box. So far I only have the box mounted and conduit mocked up.
I will be using 1 AWG THHN wire in Sealtite conduit and watertight connectors. I'm only running the POS up front....NEG will be grounded to a seat bolt. There will be a 200 amp breaker on the POS. There's a picture below comparing 1 AWG to different wire sizes I had from work.
I made a bracket to tie down the battery and bolted it right to the floor. I'm planning to re-use the normal j-hooks. The box is plastic, and doesn't support any of the battery's weight. It's only there to conceal the battery, wires, and breaker.
I'm going through the drivers side firewall, because I don't want to risk a leak over the ECU on the passenger side. Not much room to hide the conduit but it won't be too visible to anyone except the driver anyway.
Last edited by RavensFan77; 11-04-2014 at 11:22 AM..
^^thanks...but it seems I jinxed myself with the last update...and bad.
I have the p1443 code and can't figure out which solenoid is the correct one to look it/fix.
Can anyone tell me if it's the solenoid BESIDE the charcoal canister.....or ABOVE the charcoal canister!??
Also, this morning on the drive to work I noticed a ton of Feedback knock on the accessport. I almost turned around and went home because it was so bad.
It shows -4.x during any acceleration!! Even slowly getting up to speed shows knock the entire time until I let off the throttle. The DAM stays the same and there's no fine knock correction, so I'm not sure what's going on. Only CEL is that p1443.
Last edited by RavensFan77; 11-05-2014 at 06:15 AM..