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silverton's RS-T [now with smaller pictures, sorry!]
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:23 AM   #131
silverton
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Here's the analysis if any one wants to check it out. This was this motors first oil change, ~1500 miles on Chevron conventional 5w30. I didn't get a sample of the second change but the third one is due in a few hundred miles and I'll be sure to get a sample for Blackstone. Getting tired of its look, and the unwanted attention i get from boy racers, so I took the mudflaps and spats off. Need to make a craigslist post and see if anyone local has a trunk they'll trade me, as the wing is basically welded to this trunk. Kind of want to give the wingless look a try but don't want to bother with the third brake light.
  1. If trims are roughly the same, but positive, then you need to lower your injector scaling number.
  2. If both trims are roughly the same, but negative, then you need to raise your injector scaling number.
  3. If idle trim is more positive than cruise trim, then you need to increase the latency value.
  4. If the idle trim is less positive than the cruise trim, you need to decrease the latency value.

When increasing and decreasing latency based on these tuning tips I interpreted it as the gap between old/new in the emanage needed to get closer or farther apart. But, since I have information from DW about latency on my big injectors then MAYBE I just need to increase/decrease the old injector latency. As no one seems to truly know what the air assist injectors are. The one post that I've found with latency information on the 280's says the dead time is .4ms but that's wrong. I was getting 10 at idle and -10 at cruise. I believe TerryJr was quite successful with .7ms, when I've tried this idle trim usually skyrockets to 20-35 after an ECM reset so I don't think I ever actually ran it. Runs much gooder after actually taking it out and driving. I'll check the trims in a week and see where it stands for adjustment.
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File Type: pdf 01 IMPREZA-190119.pdf (17.4 KB, 11 views)
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Old 04-10-2019, 06:20 AM   #132
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Is somebody thinking of going manual?
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Old 04-10-2019, 09:11 AM   #133
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I tell people I drive an automatic on purpose, as I do have issues with my left hip, but the transmission is holding the car back, and I actually think it's starting to fail. Chassis has a quarter million miles on it. I'd love to find a 4.44 set! I absolutely adore the rocket ship nature of the automatic, and I'm more of a red light racer than a big runner.

I ran against a newer Aston Martin, and it couldn't get by me (I only build 9psi!), but the motor was hurt afterwards unfortunately. Compression is still in spec, but #4 is ~10
lower. It's always number 4! But aside from that the car has more power, harder pull, and the most normal consistent fuel trims than it ever has.

Regarding stock injector lag/latency time; the post I found that said they pulled info from the ECM says .4ms. TerryJR and pretty much every other person that has used an emanage ultimate says .7ms. I am using .58ms right now and my trims are -5-0.
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:03 AM   #134
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Was only a matter of time! Heard the extra long crank Thursday morning, had some dead time near the end of the day at work so took a coworker for a ride in it to get it warmed up. Impressed at the quickness for it being an automatic, love that 4.44FD, also said all the noises the car makes are perfect and not too overly loud. Honestly it's the noises that keep me throwing pistons at it Showed 135psi on 1-3, 58 on 4. three cylinder turbos are still pretty quick! I'll use my next 5 day break to pull the motor and replace that piston. Piston has a warranty so it's going to cost me a few gaskets and some time. Also bought a premade AN hose for my turbo drain. The two 90* rubber elbows I've been using is less than ideal and has always seeped. Think I also need to do something different with my PCV but I'll figure that out when I pull the motor.

Got another oil analysis after I learned of the low compression, I'm surprised there wasn't much to show for that. I'll send the current oil as well, be interesting to see if it will show any thing for combustion gases.
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Old 04-22-2019, 01:35 PM   #135
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boo repairs
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Old 05-23-2019, 04:33 PM   #136
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Like new, only 5,000 miles!



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Old 05-23-2019, 07:02 PM   #137
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Damn, what happened you think?
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:03 PM   #138
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Besides the obvious.
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:41 PM   #139
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I got to talking about it with one of the senior techs and he asked me how my PCV was set up, which is funny because I mentioned in a previous post before talking to him that I wanted to do something different with it. The only change I've made to the PCV system from how it's set up N/A is removing the valve cover hoses and replacing them with breather filters. It is set up with a hose off the block, to a Y, one leg goes to the throttle body pcv valve, and the other leg goes to the the intake before the turbo.

Senior tech told me I should just skip the leg going to the throttle body pcv valve and to block it off and only run the hose from the block to the pre-turbo intake port. He said the pcv valve is likely allowing boost pressure to get in to the block.

So theory right now is I've been breaking ring lands due to boost pressure being on both sides of the piston. We shall see how this next one holds up! They're breaking less and less dramatically each time, so I guess that says something right... right??
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Old 05-24-2019, 01:04 AM   #140
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You're MAP right? I'd just put one of those tiny cone filters on the PCV VALVE in the intake, and then run the hose like the tech said. I'm guessing your car will idle funny if it can't pull air in from the PCV valve, I know mine did.

I've got a 3 port catch can, one port has the valve cover breathers T'd together on it, another has the PCV from block, and the third goes to the intake pre turbo. Works like a charm.
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