I can relate on the time and health and lost of interest and regain of said interest
There was not a single gen1 Legacy at the junkyard for the first time in forever, figures that the cars I need are only there when I don't need them. There's usually 10-15 of those cars to choose from at any given time so I didn't think twice about pulling the master cylinder, thinking about ordering a new one anyway
Looking at the neck you can see a clear difference between the two crossover pipes, I was really pleased with the GC having another bung for my sender too
And then I tested the fitment, at first glance it fits perfect but it looks like the neck would be right in the path of the turbo inlet and there is a pcv nipple in the center of the block that prevents bolt holes from lining up
Clearly this is not going to work, I'm stuck using the Forester pipe
It's just barely too close to that nipple, the neck is a totally different route too
The upward and straighter angle gives me the most issue but the longer neck leaves less length for the top hose to compensate
It's so close, I think a hose with one 45 degree bend right after the radiator should fit
There's still the upward angle and not on the same plane but it really is a tight turn the hose needs to make and I think that is what causes them to collapse in the middle
The regular hose fits perfect with the GC pipe and I trimmed one down at both ends but it just can't make the turn without folding in half, the universal hose I got fits the best but I'm probably just grossly overthinking a rubber hose
I managed to drill through the bolt and get to the bottom of the hole, I really beat those walls up but that's the only way I know how to make big things fit in a small hole
The bolt ate everything but the cobalt bit and wrecked the hell out of my bolt extractor, a few threads at the bottom I was able to save. Helicoil kit is on the way, never done one of those before so should be a learning experience
You can cut the hose in half and put a temp sensor in between.
GReddy Radiator Hose Adapter with Temp Gauge Fitting 38mm | 16401638
Many options out there on amazon too
Lucky for me I drilled the hole the right size for the helicoil and went straight into tapping it with the special tap, it was nerve wracking but going slow and backing out slightly then going in deeper has proven to be an effective method in many different arenas for me
Threading in the helicoil was super simple, just have to break off the tang at the end with a punch and it's good to go
Kinda stuck with the FXT crossover pipe, looks like the pcv lines wouldn't have fit with the GC pipe either
Never want to drill on my heads again so brand new bolts all around for the intake manifold, everything looked right until I put the bpv hose in it's place and it isn't fitting with the oil pressure sender in the way
Moved the sender back up to the front and I extended the wiring for the OEM switch to relocate it in the rear, it was a real pain to get out with the manifold installed
I really wish I would have just got the sender that also included a switch so I wouldn't have to have both, not sure how I will have to run the sender wire so it's staying like this until I figure it out
When I tested if the alternator fit with the sender in place I didn't test if the belt would fit and it turns out that it doesn't, I measured the length with it resting on the sender and now looking for a 5PK900 from late 90's BMW or early 2000's Hyundai/Kia
The power steering hoses have been at odds with the GR top mount bracket so I put the pressure hose on the outside of it but now I can't use that final holding bracket, I got a bunch of different ones at the junkyard but none of them worked properly so I'm gonna just leave holding them down up to the center bracket
Front brakes didn't need much attention, probably didn't need to replace the Goodridge hoses but they were old and didn't mount to the newer struts
The rear brakes were not working with the bugeye hoses, I'm pretty sure I used the Legacy calipers when I did the H6 upgrade and they put the brake hose out toward the rear which is not working and probably why my Goodridge lines were not happy. I have no idea what I did with the FXT calipers (probably threw them in the trash) so I ordered new calipers, the pads are still really thick so I'm going to keep them
Brings back fond memories of playing the crossover/pcv/powersteering game on my motor.
I'm still making progress, slow and steady wins the race. The car I needed to get a harness from finally appeared in a junkyard by me so I spent a few hours inside a 1999 Impreza L wagon with 5MT and no ABS. Now the harnesses are at iwire and I am trying to get everything else put together before it's shipped back to me, the race is on...
The 1" master cylinder from a non ABS Legacy fit perfectly, similar pushrod depth and 4 ports so everything except that extra 1/8" the SVX has
All of this caliper business because the notch for the brake hose is at a different angle, luckily when Subaru makes these pointless changes there are only slightly annoying differences that can be remedied by combining parts from different years
I slapped the old calipers on the new brackets and got my core deposit back even though they aren't "exactly the same part number" The backing plates were coming off the old pads so they got some anti squeal and new hardware on the bracket for them
All installed with a happy angle on the hose this time, the whole thing could have been avoided if I wasn't lazy and did this bracket swap with the Forester calipers instead of just using the whole unit from the Legacy then throwing out the Forester calipers because "I will never need them" but you live and you learn
Finally found a pair of endlinks that fit and don't cost a million dollars, found them on rockauto but I don't remember the details
I think I nailed down the location of the AOS I just don't like the lower hose so close to the turbo heatshield, I removed the original TMIC bracket for more hose freedom since it isn't really necessary and it was getting in the way
Couldn't stand that pristine white cap that came with the new master so I got an old black one at the junkyard when I was pulling the harness
Since I had a wagon harness in before I don't have to modify as much stuff, the wiper plug is already lengthened and connects right up
Had to fish the rear defroster wire out of the loom to run it to a much closer rear window, the rear hatch dome light and open sensor will just get scrapped along with the rear doors
One of the things I forgot to grab was the fuel tank pigtails, I have to go back for them and convert the Forester plug to the 99 spec
Looks good man!
PN on the MC?
The only issue is the plugs are not compatible and another pigtail I need added to the junkyard shopping list, it's probably not going to be possible to get the SVX master any more so this is the best non-ABS guys can do using OEM parts
The 1,303rd harness done by iwire showed up and I can't say enough good things about Brian's customer service but I can try. I literally sent him a jumbled mess of cut up wires and had a million questions for him but he was kind and courteous to me and very understanding of my situation, the final product turned out amazing. Thank you Brian!
I quickly got to work installing the harness starting with the engine and following along with the iwire instructional videos, the section that connects near the battery goes through the fender just like on the FXT
I left the fender off after putting in the 99 wagon harness and I've been wanting to put it back on for so long, the body is finally put back together and now my anxiety level when I look at it is reduced considerably
The harness fits on the firewall just as the old one did and it felt so good to put the dash bar back in, things are really coming together and it feels like I've gotten over the wall
One of the things Brian warned be about when converting from a 98 harness to 99-01 is the door harnesses are different plugs so I pulled them with the rest of the harness at the junkyard
The diver side window switch connector is 4 pins bigger for the rear windows that I don't have but it was easy to pull all the pins out of the connector and swap them over to the coupe connector
There is a bunch of unused ports so Subaru totally could have used the same connector but of course they did not because that would be too easy, the wires are also in different positions than on the sedan/wagon connector so I used this close-up as a guide
The final issue swapping the door harnesses was with the power door lock actuator wiring being too short for a longer coupe door so I had to extend it using the coupe wiring
Steering column is bolted in, almost all the wiring is in place and the last thing I have to do before putting the dash back in is wire up the gauges
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