Originally Posted by FryphaX
^ This. That's what I used. 3m Butyl Rope / Window Weld. It's what my buddy who has had a number of GCs recommended to me. Great stuff to have around. Easy to mold, seals well and still allows you to pull the light out. Feels a lot like the OEM stuff.
On NASIOC I was turned to a foam gasket by hail2theTheif "For the rear taillights I would suggest making a dense foam gasket instead of silicone. The BRZ has the same style tails where it is open to the trunk with the taillights removed. When I had that car and swapped lights I noticed Subaru switched to using a foam gasket instead of silicone."
"I ordered some 1/4in dense foam from Amazon and made a template of the lights then cut to fit. I have had zero leaks here in Portland using it and I can now remove and install the taillights with ease. No worries of ripping paint off, getting silicone everywhere, or wondering if it sealed correctly."
Amazon.com: Sponge Neoprene 1/4 Thick X 54 Wide X 1' by CLEVERBRAND INC.: Home Improvement
Sure looks good to me, I've seen many cars at the junkyard with this style of seal for the tails but it never occurred to me to use it on my car lol
Originally Posted by George.of.the.Jungle
the clear lenses look good with the ver5/6 bumper. the fluted look better with the sports bunper. youve got it right.
They would not look good with the v5/6 bumper at all
Originally Posted by 181stLeader
^This! I have joined the 97/98 fluted headlight club too a bit ago. I snatched up a set of v4 JDM facelifted fluted lenses with the leveling motors built in from JDM Gary. Then to keep the light pattern LDH I swapped over a set of LHD fluted lenses from a usdm 97/08 headlights.
I found that the reflectors in the fluted housings are same left to right but the glass has some minor differences in the fluting whereas the clear lenses are identical on the newer lights but the reflectors inside are different left to right #themoreyouknow
After I straightened out the mounting platform I sprayed it with self etching primer to keep it from rusting
Did the same thing with the trunk area, I didn't realize there is a plug beneath the spare tire cone also that I could have pulled to drain it until I shot some air in there to clean it out and the plug popped
I'm going to do all the suspension work first and make sure everything is working properly before starting on the motor swap, it would be nice to do it all at once but when problems creep up it's so much harder to troubleshoot the things it could be
Pro tip: the exhaust can hold the differential but it doesn't like to
Fresh painted subframe is in and ready to get beat up by gravel, still gotta figure out a good way to mount the heat shield
I just cleared right over the primer to make it scratch resistant, it looks so good I'm tempted to do more but that's not gonna happen
Cleared the tail light holes too and you can see better in this picture just how janked the opening got, I tried my best to flatten it so I hope this new seal can still perform
I didn't get many pics of my painting process with the other parts but these ones I tried to get start to finish so I could go over it, after stripping I hit it with the self etching primer
Then with a white primer to make the color stronger, I use either a green scratch pad or fine sand paper to smooth the primers before applying the color
After color they hang in my super organized shed where I can keep them warm with the space heater, the last step is to spray clear and let them sit for about a week