Up next is to remove the current HVAC stuff which is already up for sale. Thinking of painting the crash beam, not digging the rust look. Some areas are pretty well aged with surface rust. Like the driver side under the dash. Ill take more pics as I go.
I also have a ton of pics when I removed the dash in case anyone has ?'s
I hear ya man! I had to sell all of my extra bits before I could get the show on the road too! Coming along great Chris. Can't wait to see the final rendition employed to a local track!
Did you buy it from Flatiron? I almost bought one, but my buddy insisted on welding all the holes in the firewall even though I only need the LHD A/C & Harness Holes welded & redrilled for the conversion. But hey, I'm not complaining.
I'm having my buddy leave a couple of the Silver Dollar sized holes in the Firewall(which they also make those plugs for) just in case, but my battery is in the trunk so I won't be running much wire to the bay.
Also, I was going to tell you that I ended up getting a really good deal on my Link G4 Plug n Play EMS at this place up here in the NW called " Drift Office." The Owner Bob beat everyone else's price by a pretty little ¢
hey, super bored at work and just caught up on this....super jelly man. haha i got a new job so hopefully the cash flow will be coming in!
btw, i did some research on those rear control arms and they look like the ones i have - Godspeed projects right??
the bushings in the control arms are garbage, that has been confirmed.
i have the adjustable lateral links and im debating whether to put those in (No rear sway bar currently =/) or get some wrx stocks and put in TiC bushings??
Ive seen too many of those Godspeed Trailing Arms break. I think the best route is the Stock STi Trailing arms and Lat Links with Whiteline bushings or some TIC,Super Pro etc.. Although the Cusco adjustable lat links are pretty damn awesome. If you wanna pay $1000 for the set
Hate to say, the whiteline are the best bang for the buck. The fact that you adjust them in the middle and not the ends makes them better than other designs. Once you bolt them to the car, the inside joint is nearly impossible to adjust correctly and tighten. Or stick with OEM.
those drive shaft carrier bushings only work if you have a 02+ driveshaft or a driveshaft with rubber bushings.... the usdm spec ones bolt right to the chassis with no bushing. I just ran into this issue.
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