Last night as I was driving my shift lever came off while shifting from 3rd to 4th luckily I was near a friends house and was able to make a quick fix with zipties. Car will go on the lift today and have the pivot universal joint replaced along with upgrading the rear shifter bushing to the STI (B0220FG300) . And of course the snap ring thats on the highway somewhere, lol.
She's dirty right now. Added some Depo chrome clear corners a week back, I'm not sure how I feel about them. Tonight will be some front fender rolling and mudguard trim so I can lower the car about an inch more and then finally do an alignment. Will also throw on the rear spats if I have time!
About to massively update this thread soon, having a busy week installing stuff! Pics and write ups to come once it's all over! And with that said my journal will be a bit messy to track at the moment, lol.
Where to start with this post... first off I'd like to say that if you don't have any experience with soldering, I would highly suggest practicing on some spare wire on how to strip, joint, crimp, splice or anything involved with wires before tackling any major and or damaging job. Some things I've learned recently by doing this and over time:
1. Pre-heating wires just a little bit before applying solder will help spread the love and makes cleaner connections
2. Take your time
3. Take your time
4. Shrink wrap everything
5. 3M Electrical tape is the best, hands down
6. Plan your wires carefully and route properly
I would also suggest reading up on previous threads already abound:
18 gauge wire (in white but at every connection end I did, I used a color corresponding shrink wrap to indicate which wire is which)
I. Simple boost gauge and Innovate LC-1 Wideband sensor install
52mm VDO 35 PSI boost gauge
2 pod pillar gauge pod
II. E-manage harness merge, via DB25 connectors install
I botched it pretty bad last night, some pins off the female side of the connections broke off, and in my mad rush to get out of work, I hastily did some connections resulting in two 4 CEL codes. Also a note for anyone trying to solder the cars harness DOUBLE, TRIPLE check EVERYTHING. I tapped into the fuel temp sensor instead of the map sensor and now I have a code for high circuit input P0183.
I'm revising my wiring and using 24-pin motherboard extension cables, the DB25s I got had so brittle connections on the female end that they broke on several occasions forcing me to re-solder to different locations. More updates on this later...
I've been planning on this build for some time now, I would suggest the same to anyone trying to turbo their car... Plan! Plan on doing things right, plan making mistakes, plan on discovering new things, plan on things going wrong. Having a plan will make your life fun, miserable, hysterical and happy once all is set in motion.
I. Engine Parts list - EJ22 experiment block, I don't care if it blows!
Stock EJ22E short block
EJ257 head gaskets
Stock EJ25D heads
Stock EJ22E oil pump
08+ style water pump
II. Turbo Components
STi Version 2/3 TD-05 16G w/ 90º inlet
1 x2.25" to 2.75" 90º silicone elbow
1x 2.75" piping for intake
1x 3" to 2.75" reducer coupling for intake pipe to maf
Ebay maf adaptor and intake
4x 1/2" 90º elbow fittings for coolant lines
1x 1/2" x 3" steel pipe for oil drain
2x 3/4" to 1/2" reducer fitting for tapping coolant
EJ205 exhaust manifold, wrapped
SRS flex up-pipe, wrapped minus flex
Invidia downpipe, tapped for wideband according to Innovate, it's always a good idea to keep the 02 between the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and to mount it POST turbo. I thought about using the bung on the up-pipe, but I'll go by Innovates directions since they state that the 02 will have a hard time reading pre-turbo