Equinox's RBP V8 EJ207 STi Swapped RSTi - Twinscroll Braps Inside - Page 245 - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
 
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Equinox's RBP V8 EJ207 STi Swapped RSTi - Twinscroll Braps Inside
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Old 05-04-2019, 04:47 AM   #2441
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Just think how much worse the 93-95 FWDs were
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:15 PM   #2442
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Ohlins DFV (Road and Track) + Mooresport Camber Plates

Gah! Finally can get these on!

After having hardware that didn't fit I decided to bite the bullet and get some of these sweet camber plates. The ability to have adjustment in the front and rear + bolt on components made my life way easier.
















The spring rates are 7k/4k which are a bit light, but hey, not so bad for a street car.



Put the car up in the air, swapped the piece on, and then began the corner balancing project...











I'm kind of (read: mostly) an idiot when it comes to these sorts of things, so after a night of experimentation, reading, and failing miserably to corner balance the car properly, I called it a nice.

The next morning I did some more reading, started to fail less, and ended up with the car (full tank + a few extra things in the car) weighing in at 2992 lbs, with a 50.6% corner weight balance (goes to 50.3 with me in the car). No so bad for an idiot like me! I also set the ride height a bit higher than I would like it, but I'll give it a couple days driving to see where I want to set it. I've noticed that setting the ride height equally on both sides WITHOUT using spring preload to set it doesn't effect the corner balance almost at all. Hell yeah separately adjustable suspension!






The only negatives I've seen so far is that I don't like the hardware for the rear Mooresport camber plates, recessed hex bolts for what seems like no reason. I'll be swapping those out. I don't mind the recessed bolts for camber adjustment, and quite frankly they need to be recessed. On the subject of the rears, I also don't like the big gaping holes they leave in the rear. I figured it would let water in, as well as noise. Also dirt, rubber, and all other things that appear on the road and the track.






Anyways, car went on the ground and I took it for a short drive. Super rainy out and my dirt road was gross. It's been raining for a damn month here




First impressions are that it's very similar to my old setup, with more adjustability and fine tuning which makes me very happy. I set the camber plates in the front one click from center and the rears at center which appears to have more camber than I had before. Fronts appear the same now as well, but I want to move them in a bit more. I don't want to make adjustments until I have proper tools to measure them.


Ride is amazing. Little bit software than the PCVs and that's with damping set to full soft. Feels like a stock STi over bumps, but has the responsiveness of a stiffer spring. Couldn't do much hard testing with wet roads.

The noise from the rear is definitely louder, and I put some seran wrap and tape on there for the time being to keep water out.

I'm going to CAD up some covers and print them out with my 3D printer and maybe add in some foam for sound deadening. Not super concerned, but I just want to keep water out since there is wiring on the one side. Maybe a better design would include a way to keep that holes covered. I dunno.

All in all was it worth it to spend all this money on a new suspension? Meh, the stuff I pulled off was actually in fantastic shape still. I was expecting worse. So not really worth it for that.

Was it worth it to learn more about how to setup cars for racing and pave the way to be able to make this car really go faster? Yes absolutely for the first part, and only probably for that next one.

Was it worth it to have the only excuse why I am slow to be because I suck at going fast? Definitely.

Other things to note: used some random rear spring perches, and I NEED to swap those out. Will buy a set of the proper Ohlins ones.

That's all for now, can't wait to keep driving this thing!

For anyone looking for sources to figure out how to corner balance their car, this guide is fantastic as well as the Grassroots article listed on his site as well: Corner Balance
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:26 PM   #2443
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I will assume the hardware they gave you has been sheer tested. Something to think about before you swap out due to 'looks'

I mean they even include the last page of the diagram for you, including the Bill of Materials (BOM), I would leave them alone. Also if the unit fails, and you changed the hardware, well....
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:50 PM   #2444
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Not so much looks (they sit behind seats anyways haha) as it is ease of use. I don't see why they couldn't use the same hardware as they do for the front ones which are just a nice 12mm bolt.
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Old 05-12-2019, 02:46 PM   #2445
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Where did you find those Ohlins new?


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Old 05-13-2019, 11:56 AM   #2446
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Saving that corner balance article for later. Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2019, 12:42 PM   #2447
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Those look awesome.
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:13 PM   #2448
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The recessed rear hardware is there so the heads of the bolts don't hit the chassis before the max adjustments are reached.

Where did you buy the Ohlins?
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:41 PM   #2449
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Nothing crazy.. little overdue for an oil change.. almost 6k on it... and two track events.. whoopsiesssss. So I changed that. 119k





Also got on the other side of the brake ducts I've had in my basement since winter. Had some OEM tabs to melt, and I added some of my printer filament for filler.






Aaaand my tune looks good to go! I'll have to post my updates here shortly. I do want to make some changes, but track time is next week so I want to avoid that.



Looking to: Add a bit more timing in, increase boost to ~19-20psi, turbo sure seems to want to make it, and not taper it off as much, AFR target 11:1 or there abouts. All of that sounds fun, but that's work I don't want to do right now. I know my tune is safe right now and am excited to send it!
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Old 05-24-2019, 03:50 AM   #2450
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Nicee
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