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dyne's 1999 2.5rs - H6 EZ30D swap
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:58 AM   #51
lbartik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seraphinwolf187 View Post
ABS is useless with the extra weight anyways. Better to delete and learn to control the footing.
I Beg to differ. While your manly supposition is humorous, I must disagree and ask for further explanation.

ABS delete on my winter car? Threshold brake on snow/ice better than ANY ABS? Hah. Weight distribution? The engine weighs <100lbs more, about the same as an average 12yr old kid. The car can hold 4-5 adults, 15.9gal gas and more in the trunk.

Am I missing something?

Last edited by lbartik; 05-29-2011 at 01:34 PM..
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Old 05-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #52
Gene
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If you need to make panic stops on snow/ice and you can't do it without abs you are probably going too fast, lol
That being said I grew up in North Dakota I am very familiar with crap roads, winter and summer, the cars I grew up driving where all rear wheel V8's without abs basic 70's 80's cars stopping was never a problem, starting off sometimes was.

As far as what he was saying about weight the abs pump, control box, and valves all have weight, and they are all up front granted its not like your going to make much difference but removing that will give you a slightly better front to rear weight bias.
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:53 PM   #53
dyne
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Originally Posted by lbartik View Post
More Awesome
Awesome! What'd you use for a radiator? I used the stock EZ30D rad, trimmed the hoses, and jammed them in.

Emulating the TCM diagnostic signal to the ECU might be tricky, I have no idea what kind of waveform it is and don't know how you'd determine it without a TCM and some logic analyzing voodoo.

The 3rd wire on the alternator goes directly to the ECU. I don't know if it's important; I just swapped the connectors on the 2.5RS's front harness and ran the wire through the firewall to the ECU.

I think I have the A/C stuff planned out so it'll work, but I have to tear out the dash to fix the wiring. The only thing I'm worried about is that, from the wiring diagrams, the 2.5RS A/C compressor appears to have a thermal overload switch, while the EZ30D compressor (which I'm using) has a rheostat.

As for the stalling at stop - do you have the ECU wired to be in gear or neutral? Mine would stall when it was wired to be in neutral, and went away when it was wired to be in gear. I don't know if that'll help if you don't have a TCM.


edit: Oh, regarding this swap vs a wrx swap: my car is much more fun to drive than my wife's '03 wrx wagon. The extra torque whenever you want is great.

Last edited by dyne; 05-31-2011 at 04:03 PM..
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:44 AM   #54
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eBay aluminum WRX rad, hacked up the top tank to match rough dimensions of H6 inlets (dimensions from a parts catalog before I had the engine in). I did it opposite (L&R) trying to avoid interference with the filler cap. LH worked, RH ended up without enough offset to use ANY normal hose. Total mess. No expansion tank installed yet.

The diagnostic signal is probably a TTL SCI, I bet there's no handshaking or anything. Just a heartbeat or simple pulse train. Need a scope and some more intelligence to prove it.

My ALT's working well with only 2 wires. I just measured the impedance to the case through the pins on the old and new alternator to match pinouts.

So the A/C compressor has a different sensor/switch on it? What else is vastly different between the H6 and RS A/C systems? One of the two cars had a shielded wire to the compressor clutch if I remember right. Seemed out of place. I'm still stuck on the idea of keeping my RS compressor and lines by swapping the clutches. What is the ECUs job in the A/C system?

You're right, I don't have a TCM and maybe that's exacerbating the stalling or forcing it into limp mode. It' s the one thing that I left behind in the donor car. Since I bisected all wiring at the anteroposterior line, I never really planned to integrate it. I saved my 2.5RS tranny module, maybe it can fake out the H6 ECU and ABS motor, as ridiculous as it sounds.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:48 AM   #55
Digitalvibe82
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Dyne, remember those seat cushions you sold me, like 2-3 years ago? (Least I am pretty sure they were yours...). Well, they are finally going in next week
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:57 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digitalvibe82 View Post
Dyne, remember those seat cushions you sold me, like 2-3 years ago? (Least I am pretty sure they were yours...). Well, they are finally going in next week
Ha! I was wondering what ever happened with those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lbartik View Post
So the A/C compressor has a different sensor/switch on it? What else is vastly different between the H6 and RS A/C systems? One of the two cars had a shielded wire to the compressor clutch if I remember right. Seemed out of place. I'm still stuck on the idea of keeping my RS compressor and lines by swapping the clutches. What is the ECUs job in the A/C system?
Based on the wiring diagrams, I think the EZ30D compressor has a rheostat and the 2.5RS's has a basic on/off switch. IIRC, in both cars the ECU monitors the thermal overload switch/rheostat and cuts the AC if there's a problem. I had originally planned on swapping the clutch/pulley and keeping the 2.5rs compressor, but the 2.5rs line leading back to the cabin hits the intake manifold and I'm not sure if you can simply swap the line.
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:03 AM   #57
Gene
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I dont see why you can not swap the line, assuming you can adapt the ends to mate up and seal correctly.

The line should just be a path for the flow if there isnt any switches in it.
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:30 PM   #58
99leg
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I want this engine in my car
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:14 PM   #59
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Just subscribed to this thread. You have managed to work around almost all the things I've considered drawbacks to this swap (power steering, radiator support, lack of hood latch, etc...) except for the a/c. I'm am curious as to how you will get this working. Great job and major props for taking the time to do things right.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:20 PM   #60
Tim.Flat4
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nice progress
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