Sorry if I'm late to the party, but which switch did you change and where are you measuring the 12v? At the passenger windows switch? If so, are you putting your ground probe from the meter on the switch or common ground (chassis)?
So if I swap the wires at the motor the window goes up when u press down on the passenger switch so I know the motor works both ways. When I changed the passenger switch with a brand new unit it didn't change what was already happening with the other switch. I also changed the relay yesterday with a new unit. I tested the sbf6 and the fuse is fine. What I'm not sure of is if I remove the fuse it reads 12 volts on one side, the other side should be dead of ppwer....But it reads 2.something volts, could it be a short or is there something wrong with the driver switch? Also from the driver side I get no use of the passenger window at all, it will only go down when wired correctly from the passenger window switch. And no lol, the lock button isn't depressed.
Don't forget that this circuit switches BOTH power and ground in order to make the window go both directions. That's why it's important to measure at the motor with the meter probes. Don't use a common ground approach or you'll chase your tail. I would start fresh by measuring the voltage at the passenger window motor with my meter probes on pins 1 and 2 and take a reading for up and another for down. I think you'll find you have 12 volts in only one direction. Once you know which leg you're losing (power or ground), you can move backwards from there.
Ok so I checked the ground/power motor lines. There is only power going down as I suspected. I checked the blue and blue red stripe lines from the driver switch to the passenger motor and they make continuity from one side to the other but they supply no power from the driver switch to the passenger side at all. Is it my driver switch?
Also at fuse sbf6 which is for the windows and sunroof(which works great btw), if I disconnect the fuse one side has 12 volts as it should and the other side has 4 volts which in my normal mechanic mind should be dead, hence the reason for a fuse. I changed the relay and passenger side switch. If I disconnect the driver switch it still has 12 and 4 volts on the other side. Is this a short somewhere? Or is it supposed to read that?
Don't worry about the fuse. If it were bad, the window wouldn't work in either direction. Since you've verified that you have 12v only when the switch is in the down position, you need to find out whether it's the power or the ground leg that's being lost when the switch is in the up position. Put your meter probes back on the motor connector and put the switch in the up position. You said you didn't have 12v here. Leave one probe on pin 1 and take the other probe off of pin 2 and put it on a chassis ground like the door hinge or any bare metal part of the car's frame. See if there is 12v on the meter now. If so, then you've lost the ground side of the "up" circuit and we need to move backwards another step to see why.