Weird Overheating Issue - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
 
Private Support i-Trader Ratings Become a Vendor Rules for VendorsModsUsers Contact
Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
gc8 RSS GC8 Facebook Subaru GC8 Twitter Subaru YouTube Channel Subaru Sticker
 
Login below or Register Now
Register Mark Forums Read FAQ Advertise
Go Back   Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com > >
Weird Overheating Issue
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-10-2009, 03:50 PM   #1
suby_701
1.8L
 
Car: 02 Impreza RS
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Greeley, CO
Trader Rating: (2)
Posts: 12
Default Weird Overheating Issue

Hey guys and gals. So I have read through most of the other threads on overheating issues and have read the Everything you Ever Needed to Know About Cooling Systems thread. And I'm still a little unsure to what my problem is.

So here is the problem, my car started overheating a couple of weeks ago on a longer highway drive (about 2 hours). The car's temperature was fine but then after about an 1 & 1/2 hours of driving on the interstate my car started to over heat. The temp gauge would slowly start to raise and then it would go down a little. Then back up again and then back down. When I noticed this I got worried and cranked the heater up to try to dissipate the heat. This didn't work. Then I downshifted to 4th gear and got the revs past 3500rpm and the temp gauge went right back to it's normal level. Then when I put it back in 5th gear it started to overheat again. So after this happened I took the nearest exit and stopped for a little while. I notice the water in my overflow tank was much higher than normal and there were bubbles coming out of it. I sat there for probably 5 minutes and then started the car and drove the rest of the way to my destination without another problem.

Then on the way back from this destination, which would be another 2 hour drive, nothing happened. The car never once overheated. So I didn't worry about it too much since then.

So I had driven the car for 3 weeks and never had this issue again, but all this driving was for an hour duration or less.

Well last weekend I went on another trip that took 2 & 1/2 hours to get there and my car started to overheat again. Just like before, after an 1 & 1/2 hours the car started to overheat. Again if I downshifted the temp gauge would go right back to normal. I pulled over, looked in the overflow tank and again it was higher that normal and had bubbles coming out of it. I waited 5 minutes and continued on my journey without any more problems. Until I was driving back from this destination and this time the car didn't start to overheat until about 2 hours of driving. Again with the same symptoms. As long as I kept the revs up the temperature was fine.

The car is a 2002 2.5RS with 108,000 miles on it. Performance modifications include Cobb spicy cams, full exhaust, intake, pulley, and a lightweight flywheel. There is no leaking, at least that I can see. The headgaskets were replaced about 15,000 miles ago by a reputable dealer with a mechanic that I fully trust. The timing belt was replaced about 8,000 miles ago, along with a coolant flush. Again by the same mechanic.

So can someone please help me figure this out?
Thanks
Sorry for such a long post. Hope it's clear enough to understand.
__________________
02 Aspen White 2.5RS: Cobb old Stage 2 w/ Spicey Cams
suby_701 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-10-2009, 03:56 PM   #2
rage557
Premium Member
 
rage557's Avatar
 
Car: 2005 Legacy GT Wagon
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ballston Spa, NY
Trader Rating: (4)
Posts: 1,021
Default

I'm having the same problem, haven't found a solution yet.
__________________
http://www.BarOneComposites.com
rage557 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 04:58 PM   #3
susiemk
2.5L RS-T
 
Car: GF OBS-T, GM RS EJ20, SF EJ20
Fav Mod: EJ222+10psi=12.89s 1/4
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NYC
Trader Rating: (58)
Posts: 4,973
Default

Had the same problem.

Scangauge water temp would creep up towards 200* on highway cruise, temp gauge would not move because I pay attention to my gauges - but downshifting & flooring the car would bring temps back down to the 170*-180* range.

I put a BIG Koyo Radiator in & STILL had the same problem.

Then I changed the Crucial Racing thermostat in my car for a stocker & problem was Solved.

Now HW cruise @ over 50 mph will have coolant temps in the 120* range which is not good - so I have to put a piece of cardboard over the radiator ice road trucker style to keep coolant temps up.
susiemk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 05:35 PM   #4
rage557
Premium Member
 
rage557's Avatar
 
Car: 2005 Legacy GT Wagon
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ballston Spa, NY
Trader Rating: (4)
Posts: 1,021
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by susiemk View Post
Had the same problem.

Scangauge water temp would creep up towards 200* on highway cruise, temp gauge would not move because I pay attention to my gauges - but downshifting & flooring the car would bring temps back down to the 170*-180* range.

I put a BIG Koyo Radiator in & STILL had the same problem.

Then I changed the Crucial Racing thermostat in my car for a stocker & problem was Solved.

Now HW cruise @ over 50 mph will have coolant temps in the 120* range which is not good - so I have to put a piece of cardboard over the radiator ice road trucker style to keep coolant temps up.
What temp Crucial did you use?
__________________
http://www.BarOneComposites.com
rage557 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 07:08 AM   #5
susiemk
2.5L RS-T
 
Car: GF OBS-T, GM RS EJ20, SF EJ20
Fav Mod: EJ222+10psi=12.89s 1/4
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NYC
Trader Rating: (58)
Posts: 4,973
Default

160* which worked well for a couple of years then crapped out....
susiemk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 09:11 AM   #6
maxiav
2.7L
 
Car: 2001 Subaru 2.5 RS-T BRP
Fav Mod: EJ257 255WHP 275WTQ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: MD
Trader Rating: (10)
Posts: 359
Default

When you changed your timing belt... did you change your water pump as well?

The only thing that I can think of is your water pump going bad. Given it's belt driven, it could be going bad and when at higher RPMS it manages to work a bit better and actually circulate the coolant. At low RPMs, if your pump is going bad, the coolant will barely circulate, cause it to overheat, and that could explain the excess on the overflow tank and the bubbles..

Just a thought...
maxiav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 09:21 AM   #7
bugman1964
Premium Member
 
bugman1964's Avatar
 
Car: 01 rs coupe. BRP
Fav Mod: fender braces
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: frederick,md
Trader Rating: (11)
Posts: 1,559
Default

To double check the pump take off the cap make sure the system is full run the car with out the cap and watch down the fill hole once the thermostat opens you should see flow.Also once it opens actuate the throttle by hand or have some one else do it the flow should increase with the throttle.

It could also be sign of a bad head gasket if your getting bubbles. If the bubbles are only their when the car is running especially and the higher amount of coolant then normal. Check for oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil.
bugman1964 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 09:31 AM   #8
deadchip
Premium Member
 
deadchip's Avatar
 
Car: 00 V7 RSTi racingbrake4pots
Fav Mod: JDM V7 STi engine swap
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Tofino, BC
Trader Rating: (7)
Posts: 1,023
Default

Thermostat or rad cap??? Just some thoughts.
__________________
"What's behind me, don't matter!"
deadchip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 09:35 AM   #9
suby_701
1.8L
 
Car: 02 Impreza RS
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Greeley, CO
Trader Rating: (2)
Posts: 12
Default

Thanks for the replies. Nope, the water pump was not changed when the timing belt was done. I'll try what you suggested bugman1964. So far I have not seen any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I'm going to be changing the oil soon so I'll know for sure in a couple of days.

As I was thinking about it more last night it seems to me to be an internal leak in the headgaskets. Causing exhaust gasses to get into the coolant which would cause air bubbles and after an 1 & 1/2 hours of driving the air bubbles build up and impede the flow of the coolant. And stopping for 5 minutes allows enough air bubbles to escape to allow the cooling system to function again.
I don't know, does that seem to make sense to anybody?
__________________
02 Aspen White 2.5RS: Cobb old Stage 2 w/ Spicey Cams
suby_701 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2009, 09:40 AM   #10
bugman1964
Premium Member
 
bugman1964's Avatar
 
Car: 01 rs coupe. BRP
Fav Mod: fender braces
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: frederick,md
Trader Rating: (11)
Posts: 1,559
Default

yes it makes tons of sense. That why I was curious if the bubbles only came out while the car was running. I forgot to mention in there to check the head gaskets look through the radiator cap hole while it's running. As some one else mentioned you could be boiling your coolant due to a bad rad cap go pick one up for a couple of bucks or have your's tested.
bugman1964 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright © 2019 VerticalScope Inc.
Designed & Powered by Domain Architect