After battling with my power windows, using a multimeter to test everything I could, I solved my problem of a bad relay. Because I couldn't find much information on here, I'm posting up what I have learned.
I'm not sure to what exact models this applies to either. I have a 2000 RS.
When the ignition switch is set to on, you should be getting power to pin 6 (coupe) or 5 (sedan) on your plug that goes into the switch. It is labeled BY for the color code, I don't remember which two colors it is. It for sure has a yellow stripe because of the "y".
Coupe
Sedan
If you aren't getting power here, move on. If you are, it is either a bad switch, or a bad motor/regulator in the door. You can check to see if your switch is working by checking that pins 8 and 6 have continuity when the driver's side "window down" button is being pressed for a coupe. They are pins 5 and 15 in the sedan.
SBF-6 IS for the power window system. If you aren't getting 12 volts to your switch, check here first. It is in your engine bay fuse box. Take the fuse out and see if there is continuity. If there is, you can move on. If not, replace. I am going to assume the 12 is getting there in the first place, because if you didn't have 12v to your engine bay fuse box, you would have a lot more problems than just your windows.
Next is safe to move to the relay area, as it will tell you if your 12v is getting through the circuit breaker to your relay. The relay is connected to your interior fuse box. It's easiest to remove the bottom part of your driver's side dash to get at it. There's just a few clips and two screws on the underside. Now, looking at your fusebox from the driver's seat, the power window relay is connected to it on the upper left hand side in a circular clip. The plug going into the connector is blue. Unplug the connector, and it's time to test things again.
Connect 12v to where the thinner of the two green/black wires plugs into the relay (pin 1), and ground where the black one plugs in (pin 3). You should hear the relay "click".
NOW,
Make sure that after it has clicked, there is continuity between the other two pins. This is where I went wrong, as I forgot to check this. This makes sure the big 12v wire can get the 12v through the relay.
Plug the relay back in, and turn the key to ignition. You should feel/hear the relay click on again. If it doesn't, check fuse 18 on the interior fuse box. If that doesn't solve it, your circuit breaker is bad. They don't usually fail, and if the breaker gets tripped, I have read they reset themselves automatically, so most wont have to worry about this. It is located way up in the dash anyway so I really hope no one has to take it out.
So you should be able to test and see that 12v is getting to the white/green wire going into the relay, and it comes back out with the thicker green/black wire. If you don't get 12v at the second one, stop by Napa and pick up a new relay.
Everything should work now!
Also, make sure your window lock switch isn't engaged when trying to troubleshoot the other door's switches. It makes you feel like a fool
Also, this thick green/black wire splits further down the harness and goes to the sunroof. If none of your windows and your sunroof doesn't work, I would guess it is a bad relay.
I know some of this information is very basic, but I just wanted to make a thread where this stuff is laid out, because it took me a long time to look it all up in the service manual when trying to fix my own problems. Feel free to ask any questions too!
I'm not sure to what exact models this applies to either. I have a 2000 RS.
When the ignition switch is set to on, you should be getting power to pin 6 (coupe) or 5 (sedan) on your plug that goes into the switch. It is labeled BY for the color code, I don't remember which two colors it is. It for sure has a yellow stripe because of the "y".
Coupe
Sedan
If you aren't getting power here, move on. If you are, it is either a bad switch, or a bad motor/regulator in the door. You can check to see if your switch is working by checking that pins 8 and 6 have continuity when the driver's side "window down" button is being pressed for a coupe. They are pins 5 and 15 in the sedan.
SBF-6 IS for the power window system. If you aren't getting 12 volts to your switch, check here first. It is in your engine bay fuse box. Take the fuse out and see if there is continuity. If there is, you can move on. If not, replace. I am going to assume the 12 is getting there in the first place, because if you didn't have 12v to your engine bay fuse box, you would have a lot more problems than just your windows.
Next is safe to move to the relay area, as it will tell you if your 12v is getting through the circuit breaker to your relay. The relay is connected to your interior fuse box. It's easiest to remove the bottom part of your driver's side dash to get at it. There's just a few clips and two screws on the underside. Now, looking at your fusebox from the driver's seat, the power window relay is connected to it on the upper left hand side in a circular clip. The plug going into the connector is blue. Unplug the connector, and it's time to test things again.
Connect 12v to where the thinner of the two green/black wires plugs into the relay (pin 1), and ground where the black one plugs in (pin 3). You should hear the relay "click".
NOW,
Make sure that after it has clicked, there is continuity between the other two pins. This is where I went wrong, as I forgot to check this. This makes sure the big 12v wire can get the 12v through the relay.
Plug the relay back in, and turn the key to ignition. You should feel/hear the relay click on again. If it doesn't, check fuse 18 on the interior fuse box. If that doesn't solve it, your circuit breaker is bad. They don't usually fail, and if the breaker gets tripped, I have read they reset themselves automatically, so most wont have to worry about this. It is located way up in the dash anyway so I really hope no one has to take it out.
So you should be able to test and see that 12v is getting to the white/green wire going into the relay, and it comes back out with the thicker green/black wire. If you don't get 12v at the second one, stop by Napa and pick up a new relay.
Everything should work now!
Also, make sure your window lock switch isn't engaged when trying to troubleshoot the other door's switches. It makes you feel like a fool
Also, this thick green/black wire splits further down the harness and goes to the sunroof. If none of your windows and your sunroof doesn't work, I would guess it is a bad relay.
I know some of this information is very basic, but I just wanted to make a thread where this stuff is laid out, because it took me a long time to look it all up in the service manual when trying to fix my own problems. Feel free to ask any questions too!