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1st oil change
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:05 PM   #51
Kevin M
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Originally Posted by itliankid View Post
Those oils that say they can go 6,12 or whatever they say are bs.. how they rate those r buy mileage and hours of idle. yes they can last a little longer and may seem to look good and the oil is full but i really wouldnt recommend goin past4500. i read an article bout that bout a month ago and my instructor at wyotech told me the same dame thing.. its just bs..
Unless your instructor has a Ph.D. in organic chemistry like the guys who design oils do, he's not the expert.

If your filter can clean out the garbage, oil will last well over 4,500 miles given regular duty, synthetics easily more. There is plenty of OA data to support that.
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:24 PM   #52
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dont mean to sound like a jagbag.. but he only has 35plus yrs and shown us test results that show that heat and wear and tear breaks down motor oil.. in general.. but runnign your car for that long with normal wear and tear.. really breaks down oils.. not sayin that it wont protect but wont trust it.. there are lab experaments that proves this shit.. just sayin and like i sadi dont mean to sound like a jag.. sry
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:05 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by itliankid View Post
dont mean to sound like a jagbag.. but he only has 35plus yrs and shown us test results that show that heat and wear and tear breaks down motor oil.. in general.. but runnign your car for that long with normal wear and tear.. really breaks down oils.. not sayin that it wont protect but wont trust it.. there are lab experaments that proves this shit.. just sayin and like i sadi dont mean to sound like a jag.. sry
35 years ago, this was right. It was right up until... oh, 6 or 8 years ago. Oil is like any other material- breakthroughs happen on a regular basis. Dino oil on the shelf today is superior to synthetic from 15 or 20 years ago.

Bottom line is, quality synthetics last much longer that you would think, IF you swap filters to keep it clean and aren't using it in a heavy duty motor or harsh environment (desert, extreme cold, heavy dust, etc.). You don't have to take my word for it- go to the BITOG forum and look at the results guys have gotten using oil analysis from Blackstone.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:05 AM   #54
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Since we're talking oil.. i am running conventional right now at 125k on the odemeter. Should i be running a blend or keep with what i got?

keep in mind i live in MN and it gets anywhere from -60 all the way to +100 degrees F at pretty much anytime of the year it seems lol.

Previous owner didnt know what was run in it so i figured conven was a safe bet so my seals didnt shrink up.
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:57 PM   #55
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im not an oil specalist but my cars got 130plus and i run a synletic high millege and zmax.. ever oil change.. and i here ya man i live in chicago.. zmax works to get slug out.. seen it first hand at a show at a zmax tent..
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:10 PM   #56
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I'm not saying it will happen, but in some cases where oil is switched from mineral base to synthetic on high mileage engines leaks can develop. Just something to bear in mind.

Personally if I had a high mileage engine (over 100,000) that's had dino oil all it's life I'd probably use a good mineral based oil like Castrol or Vavoline and change it every 3000.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:45 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by itliankid View Post
im not an oil specalist but my cars got 130plus and i run a synletic high millege and zmax.. ever oil change.. and i here ya man i live in chicago.. zmax works to get slug out.. seen it first hand at a show at a zmax tent..
I'd like to see any evidence that any additive is worth using in any way, from a source not directly funded by said additive.

In other words, Zmax isn't helping you at all.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:55 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Skylinerally09 View Post
Since we're talking oil.. i am running conventional right now at 125k on the odemeter. Should i be running a blend or keep with what i got?

keep in mind i live in MN and it gets anywhere from -60 all the way to +100 degrees F at pretty much anytime of the year it seems lol.

Previous owner didnt know what was run in it so i figured conven was a safe bet so my seals didnt shrink up.
Just go with a decent Dino oil and call it a day. Castrol, Havoline, Valvoline, or Pennzoil. They're all pretty good. Keep it at 5w30 for the winter and either 5w30 or 10w30 for the summer. 5000 mile oil changer intervals and a fresh filter every time. You shouldn't have any problems with that combo as long as you don't beat the hell out of your engine.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:35 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by BAN SUVS View Post
I'd like to see any evidence that any additive is worth using in any way, from a source not directly funded by said additive.

In other words, Zmax isn't helping you at all.
I don't use additives either though I think they may have some positive effect if your using a lessor oil in the engine anyway... maybe

I've talked to techs at both Mobil 1 and Redline and they told me the same thing. Don't add additives to our oil. It's formulated to work and protect a certain way and additives could change that in a way the engineers could not predict. If I want protection I just use the best stuff I can find. Right now that's Redline.


I would also be weary of going 5000 miles on dino oil. Though I don't think it would get saturated with particulate matter the polymers in the oil will start to stick to internal engine parts and additives required to keep oil from getting caustic will have been evaporating out of the oil during normal usage. Once the oil gets caustic it could start eating away at the softer metals in the engine. I know in bus fleet maintenance they leave the oil in for extended intervals and just add these additives back in, you could do that, but I'm not sure it would be worth it on such small amounts of oil.
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:19 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowstonepart View Post
Yellow stone diesel parts plant is one of the leading manufacturers
of engine parts, in particular diesel fuel injection system
accessories for replacement, such as Fuel injection Nozzle, Plunger and
Delivery valve, ETC In south of china .

for more detail please visit our website : www.yellowstonediesel.com
www.dieselinjection.cn

Yellow stone diesel parts plant was founded in 1997.Over the years,
Yellow stone has grown and gained a reputation for producing
high quality products and delivering them on time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowstonepart View Post
Yellow stone diesel parts plant is one of the leading manufacturers
of engine parts, in particular diesel fuel injection system
accessories for replacement, such as Fuel injection Nozzle, Plunger and
Delivery valve, ETC In south of china .

for more detail please visit our website : www.yellowstonediesel.com
www.dieselinjection.cn

Yellow stone diesel parts plant was founded in 1997.Over the years,
Yellow stone has grown and gained a reputation for producing
high quality products and delivering them on time.


Bye.
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