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New Car Break-In
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:26 AM   #11
Wrexz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxer4life
I did manage to get it stuck in a drift at about 1,200 miles or so. While I was rocking it back and forth trying to get it out, I saw 2 things that displeased me: 1.) The engine was getting hot, but it never redlined. 2.) my ABS light came on. Now, i know why the engine overheated, but what was the ABS light for? It's happened to me while messing around in parking lots after a snow as well.
the abs light is from the ecu reading the wheel speed sensors and detecting different speed than it thinks the car is going or 1 or more wheels are spinning faster than others due to less traction. its normal and once you drive it normally the light will just go off..
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:18 AM   #12
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thats why you dont buy test drive cars, when i got my 04 wrx they asked me if i wanted the one that i test drove.. i was like NO, because in my head i was like you probaly dont want it after the test run i put it through.!!! so they gave one to me that had 2 miles on it i think..
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Old 03-02-2006, 03:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrexz
the abs light is from the ecu reading the wheel speed sensors and detecting different speed than it thinks the car is going or 1 or more wheels are spinning faster than others due to less traction. its normal and once you drive it normally the light will just go off..
Mine didn't turn off. I was leaving a snowy parking spot and it just stayed on. After I turned off the car and turned it back on the ABS light turned off.
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Old 03-02-2006, 03:21 PM   #14
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I say break it in the same way you plan on driving it. To hell with a pussy ass light throttle low rpm break in. I've built more engines than I care to count, new and old, n/a and boosted, and I've never broken one in by the "light use" method, nor have I ever had a problem with any of them having longevity issues.

Just my $0.02
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Old 03-02-2006, 09:50 PM   #15
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>>> also, bear in mind that a new car has probably already been raped on its share of test drives.[/QUOTE]<<<

The ONLY no-no is constant speed and low rpms. If you drive it low RPMS through the entire break in when you decide NOW it's time to rev to the limiter you are throwing pistons and rings in a virgin cylinder wall that it tighter (remember?) then where it has just spent it's 'break in' life. Pistons 'stretch' at higher RPM's and reach farther up the cylinder walls... issues for sure.

I have used the same break in procedure on everything from a balanced/blueprinted race engine to a Honda Civic. Use 3000 rpms at shift point for 1st 100 miles, then increase by 1000 rpms each 100 till you are hitting the rev limiter. Then, let 'er rip!

Ah... this only works if your 'new' car has 20 or less miles ~ otherwise:

"Like he said!" If it wasn't the 'test driver' it was the salesman! Then we just go back to 'old school' and 'best school'. Just drive it like your gonna drive it!!! Stay off cruise control and give 'er a whipping!

Last edited by NW OBS; 03-02-2006 at 09:53 PM..
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:21 PM   #16
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my buddy showed me a website about how motorcycles are broken in. it was pretty neat, they do the same stuff for thier cars. basically let it warm all teh ay up to op temp. then do HARD pulls with it. i think it was 40-70 as mentioned above or something liek that.

anyway they had pictures form cars that were broken in the dealer way and cars broken in their way. on the dealers the piston was all discolored from oil getting past the rings, theirs was nice and shiny. with no oil blow by. i know what i will do when / if i get a new car.
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Old 09-19-2006, 01:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynapar
my buddy showed me a website about how motorcycles are broken in. it was pretty neat, they do the same stuff for thier cars. basically let it warm all teh ay up to op temp. then do HARD pulls with it. i think it was 40-70 as mentioned above or something liek that.

anyway they had pictures form cars that were broken in the dealer way and cars broken in their way. on the dealers the piston was all discolored from oil getting past the rings, theirs was nice and shiny. with no oil blow by. i know what i will do when / if i get a new car.
i believe you are refering to this site:

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:01 PM   #18
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^ thats the same website. it makes sense that with a slow easy break it you arnt going to seat the rings all the way. as with a hard mashing you know things got put back in place lol.
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Old 11-12-2006, 05:04 PM   #19
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When I got my car back from having the engine rebuilt I varied rmps and didn't beat it till 500 miles. I changed the oil so there wasn't anything floating around in my oil. After that I drove it a little harder but still didn't redline and beat the piss out of it till 1k miles. If you drive to much like a wuss it won't seat properly then you'll get blow by anyway.
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Old 11-12-2006, 05:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cholla
i believe you are refering to this site:

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Subaru motors are not motorcycle motors...

Anyways I agree 100% with NW OBS, you got to work up to it. Its basically what I'm doing with mine, only revving to 3k till I hit 300 (only at 161 miles), then continue on from there till I hit 7k.
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